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Mike Poore
06-10-2007, 05:29 AM
Barry's trailer woes for the trip to Chicago got me to thinking, once again, about the need for a personal trailer, and most importantly, what kind to get, open, or closed.

Open, exposes the car on the trailer to weather and debris damage, but keeps road snot from the undercarriage, and most importantly unwanted miles off the odometer, not to mention the comparative ease of towing, vs a closed unit. They can be towed without the need for special vehicles, and the cost to purchase, about 1/2 of a closed one, all else being equal.

Closed trailers protect the vehicle, but the initial expense, plus the need for a substantial tow vehicle, plus fuel consumption enter into the equation. I've looked at both, and the lack of owning has kept us from attending many MCA events. Barb and I have discussed, many times the need for a trailer, but which kind to get is a tough call. :dunno:

larryo340
06-10-2007, 06:05 AM
If money is not a problem then go with a enclosed trailer, if budget is tight then open is the way to go. The only suggestion with an open trailer is to have good (= large) mudguards to protect the front of MM.
I have friends that towed from New York to Maryland, Memphis, Orlando, with an open trailer with no problems.

CRUZTAKER
06-10-2007, 09:21 AM
If you get an open trailer, get a featherlite. Anywhere from 1500 lbs or less in the size shown below is great to ease weight.

This one was steel, and treated 2x6 decking. Very heavy at 2000+ lbs.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/6/2/6/Towing007.jpg

jgc61sr2002
06-10-2007, 09:33 AM
I have a Imperial open steel deck trailer which I tow with my Silverado.
As for the featherlight they are quite pricy. IMO

GreekGod
06-10-2007, 02:34 PM
...Maybe a special (California?) car cover could help protect it with an open trailer.

jgc61sr2002
06-10-2007, 03:20 PM
...Maybe a special (California?) car cover could help protect it with an open trailer.

Would probably chaf the paint.

Brutus
06-10-2007, 03:51 PM
If you get an open trailer your friends wont bug you all the time to help them when they move.:D

Leadfoot281
06-10-2007, 08:18 PM
You can't beat a Featherlite trailer. Spendy, sure, but few people ever regret buying the best. My Dad hauled dozens of 2 cylinder John Deere tractors home with his.

Featherlites are built about 50 miles from me and I know a bunch of people that work there. Their welding standards and quality control is very high.

GreekGod
06-10-2007, 08:22 PM
Featherlite trailer-half the weight, twice the price?

AzMarauder
06-12-2007, 05:55 PM
You can get an open trailer with a "windshield" on the front. I have have steel tandem axle trailer that has such a metal windshield. It bolts on the front of the trailer...

I am sure it adds to wind drag when running empty but doesn't make much difference when running with a car on it.

I recommend springs, electric brakes, and if you can afford it an electric winch. I didn't get the winch and could have used it a couple of times already.

CRUZTAKER
06-12-2007, 06:18 PM
.... and if you can afford it an electric winch. I didn't get the winch and could have used it a couple of times already.

That's a no shatter!!!

We used two come-alongs to get that baby on board. What a PITA!

AzMarauder
06-12-2007, 06:28 PM
That's a no shatter!!!

We used two come-alongs to get that baby on board. What a PITA!

I had to load and haul an old parts car (Chrysler Conquest) that had no engine and bad wheel bearings...

I took he windshield off the front of the trailer, hooked the trailer to my son's Jeep Liberty and placed the Jeep/trailer such that the Jeep was at about 60^ angle to the right.

Then took the F250 Powerstroke and positioned it on the front end of the trailer, hooked two tow ropes together, strung them across the trailer to the Conquest. Pulled the car up onto the trailer.

Interestingly enough, at one point the hooks that joined the two ropes caught on trailer frame.. and the Powerstroke started to drag the Conquest, trailer, Jeep all down the drive way. That F250 is a BEAST! :D

CRUZTAKER
06-12-2007, 08:04 PM
... and the Powerstroke started to drag the Conquest, trailer, Jeep all down the drive way. That F250 is a BEAST! :D


:baaa: :lol:

I so want to win the lottery and buy that new f350 monster.
I wouldn't have had to cut that 90 foot tree down....I could have uprooted it!

AzMarauder
06-13-2007, 03:58 AM
:baaa: :lol:

I so want to win the lottery and buy that new f350 monster.
I wouldn't have had to cut that 90 foot tree down....I could have uprooted it!

LOL... I had a Jeep Liberty get uppity when I was pulling an 18' travel trailer. So we were sitting at a light with open road infront of us and I said to myself... "what have I got to lose". Light changed and I hammered the Powerstroke. The Liberty guy got about 1/2 a truck length at the beginning and then the Turbo hit on the 6.0 and I snatched him to behind my cab and kept him there til I lifted at the 55 MPH speed limit. That guy went by me with a look of :eek:.

It was a shame he couldn't hear me cause I was giving him some sage advice...

"Don't mess with travel trailers son...they are bad assed little animals... they'll smoke that Liberty all day and PUSH an F250 out of the way to do it!"

;)

magindat
06-13-2007, 05:41 AM
1) NEVER use a cover when trailering on an open trailer. Roadgrime/sand/etc WILL collect under it and chaff.

2) The 'Windshield' can be made lower than a normal enclosed front and is VERY effective.

3) An enclosed trailer provides you another 'garage' of sorts.

4) A winch is relatively cheap (in the purchase of the trailer) but will pay for itself on FIRST use!!

5) No matter WHAT kind of trailer you get, make sure you have a high quality 4-point strapping system rated for at least TWICE what the vehicle weighs on each point.

6) If loading a 'disabled' car, use wheel dollies. $25 each (or so) from Harbor Freight (or similar).

7) Brakes, and a brake controller or a MUST for safety and regular use. Again, cheap int he grand scheme of things.

8) An open trailer is far less subject to side wind load and is MUCH easier to drive in weather than enclosed.

9) You can accessorize an enclosed trailer with a small generator and portable AC unit such that you could STAY in it at events and/or have a nice 'pit'. Also, can carry tools, fluids, etc in the enclosed.

Just some thoughts for ya to consider. The REAL question is: what is it REALLY for? Is it JUST to tote the car around or will it be part of a regular/often use to go to events?

Some of the enclosed cost could be offset by using it as a 'camper' when attending events. It's just up to you to decide how you live, if 'camping' is for you and what your ultimate usage will be.

If I could, I'd:
Buy an enclosed trailer with a 5th wheel yoke.
Install a potable water tank, porta potty, and sink.
Install a generator.
Carry a large cooler.
Outfit with tools. Not so many to hugely increase weight, but enough to fix the car.
Build a fold-out bed.
Checkerboard tile the floor.
Install or carry an AC unit.
Install a roll-up canopy on the side
Buy a 350 DUALLY to pull it with.

GreekGod
06-13-2007, 06:01 AM
Magindat has sage advice. I like the idea of an extruded aluminum floor, available from some builders (they are full length one-piece stringers). A sway controller and load equalizer hitch are needed for a standard hitch ($500+).

My "dream" enclosed trailer includes a lift.

AzMarauder
06-13-2007, 11:30 AM
One thing I found handy... they make these nylon web "Tire/Wheel Baskets" similar to what is used to secure a car's front wheel to the toy dolly. Except these are made to hook onto the side of a car hauler. I used them when picking up my parts Lincoln MKVII LSC. Worked like a charm.

jgc61sr2002
06-13-2007, 04:20 PM
I purchased a weight distribution kit and anti sway bar on Ebay for $140.00 plus $40.00 fir shipping. Made by Curt great stuff.:D