Buzzing stereo problem persists.

[Aren Jay]

.............................. ........

[dalucifer]

this buzzing noise, is it more of a hiss? If you going over a bump and it gets better, then something is loose most likely. As far as the turn on/off pop, that is due to the amp turning off before the head unit. A pop relay solves that issue no problem.

[KillJoy]

Bad ground.

KillJoy

[Pops]

Unplug the sub amp and see if it goes away. Then post up the results.

[magindat]

Unplug the amplifier. It's a 6 position molex and is easily reach from the driver's side with the trunk open.

This will prove if it's the amp/sub or it's wiring.

If it is, then:

Check fuse 1 under hood to see if good and or loose/secure.

Check the joint behind the seat. There's a 'pigtail' harness from the amp/sub assembly to another 6 position molex behind the driver's side of the back seat. You'll have to sit in the trunk to reach it. Be sure it's plugged in securely. You could try wiggling/moving wires around while you're there to try to reproduce the problem and lead you to the fault.

Check the wiring harnesses behind the back seat. You may need to remove the seat for this, but it's not hard. The amp harness is wrapped with others, such as the defrost, third eye, etc. Make sure there's no external or INTERNAL chaffing, although internal chaffing is VERY rare and unlikely.

If ALL THAT checks out, borrow an amp/sub from a friend (contact 3dogknight, possibly, since I just replaced his). if that's it, pay the man and you're done. If not, it's the car's wiring. UPGRADE!!!!!!

[Pops]

Rich we can count on you to come thru!

[Dr Caleb]

Check the ground strap and RF Filter.

The only ground strap I could find in the area where your car had repairs is the driver side, near the hood hinge.

The RF supressor is on the passenger side rear of the engine.

[magindat]

this buzzing noise, is it more of a hiss? If you going over a bump and it gets better, then something is loose most likely. As far as the turn on/off pop, that is due to the amp turning off before the head unit. A pop relay solves that issue no problem.

The factory system uses a +5v turn on which is already delayed.

[magindat]

Bad ground.

KillJoy


Check the ground strap and RF Filter.

The only ground strap I could find in the area where your car had repairs is the driver side, near the hood hinge.

The RF supressor is on the passenger side rear of the engine.

Interesting points...

It's not he RF filter if noise is intermittent AND occurs when in a non-radio mode.

There is a ground strap behind the back seat. Passenger side right about where the rear passenger's left kidney would be. It could be loose, corroded or have paint resistance.

While checking wires back there, remove this ground, sand around the hole to bare metal, replace ground.

There are a couple other ground points back there, wouldn't hurt to check/improve them as well, but I believe this one includes the amp's ground.

[Aren Jay]

.............................. ........

[magindat]

This is the multicoloured wires connector or the white black (grey) connector.

The sound is definitely a buzzing not a hiss.

Can we say for sure that it is not the alternator?

Yes, multicolored wires - a red, a yellow, I forget the others. 6 pin grey connector.

We can say for sure if it is or isn't the sub amp after you unplug it. Let's go from there.

[KillJoy]

Duct Tape is sticky.

:D

KillJoy

[magindat]

Duct Tape is sticky.

:D

KillJoy

Duct tape is Silver...

Silence is Golden!!!

:beer:

[sicilianmarquis]

i remember when i had my stock radio, when i used the rear defroster and i pushed the button in it had interference and all i heard as bad static out of my radio

[RF Overlord]

Someone suggested AC from the alternator. Would this happen with the engine off but the key selector at the "on" position?I think that was me, and I didn't realise at the time that you had the problem with the engine off, so the answer to your question is No.

[Dr Caleb]

Duct Tape is sticky.

:D

KillJoy

Duct Tape is like 'The Force'. There is a Dark Side, a light side, and it binds the Universe together.

[MENINBLK]

Thunder sounds fades away after 15 seconds.

Hitting a bump will turn the buzzing noise off and make the sub work better, hitting another bump may start the buzzing noise again. Not always.

Turning the stereo off eliminates the buzzing noise, turning it back on brings it back.



OK,

Thunder sound is caused by a floating ground capacitance.
As the capacitance builds up the thunder sound decreases.
Are you using a power cap with your system ?
Is it grounded SECURELY ?

The rest is caused by the bad ground period.

You really need to find a really good grounding point on the floor or the firewall.
Don't rely on the power harness for a good ground.
Don't rely on Engine harnesses for good ground.

It has to be cleaned and mounted SECURELY.
EVERY COMPONENT needs to be grounded indivdually to this point.
This will ensure that ALL COMPONENTS are GROUNDED
and they are GROUNDED TOGETHER.

Check your BATTERY TERMNINALS.
Are they CLEAN ?
Are they TIGHT ?
Are the Battery Cables tight on the other ends ?

If you need to, run a separate GROUND CABLE from the Ground Terminal
of the battery to the Secure Ground position for your components.
This will ensure that there is no floating ground at all.

Any more buzzing or humming, get yourself a stronger RF filter.

[MENINBLK]

Duct Tape is like 'The Force'. There is a Dark Side, a light side, and it binds the Universe together.

You took the words right outta my mouth... :bandit:

[Aren Jay]

.............................. ........

[Advancedautosec]

DONT waste your time with ground loop isolators!! its like putting a bandaid on a wound! your sub could be blown/damaged, thus the intermitent connection, and being blown it changes the impedance of the sub and thus noise feeds back into the system, do as the others mentions and eliminate the sub/amp setup first and then check the rest. A ground is any wire that is connected strait to the cars chassis/frame.

[Aren Jay]

.............................. ........

[Advancedautosec]

try it. or maybe someone else on here knows for sure. i think the amp is just to power the sub, i could be wrong.

[Aren Jay]

.............................. ........

[Advancedautosec]

i cant help you with that, im sure someone else on here could help you though.

[Dr Caleb]

How are the connectors attached, I pulled yanked wiggled prodded pryed tugged twiched vellicated wrenched wriggled wrung plucked quaked quivered shrugged siezed flopped hurtled snagged slung and tweaked.

It didn't come loose. Is there a catch or something?

There is a tiny 'lock' tab. Open that, and they come apart real easy. Your best bet is to get 'in' the trunk and find the harness that comes from the package tray. It's easier to undo and is usually hanging down near the back of the rear seat.

Barring that, it plugs directly into tha 'amp' that is nearest the back of the car - closest to the back (upside down on the sub woofer assembly, IIRC - 2 black, 2 green, 1 white, 1 blue? wire). The connector with all black wires only goes to the sub woofer itself. The other connector is power, ground and signal for the amp.

I just had that assembly out a couple weekends ago. So my memory of it is fading.

[Aren Jay]

.............................. ........

[magindat]

Exactly. It's on the left as you look TOWARDS the sub. If you get INTO the trunk, as suggested or look UNDER 'the sub'. You'll see it's a formed box with an amp hanging under it. Simply unplug the amp.

All factory plugs have some sort of 'catch' that you have to mash or pinch to free up. Generally, find the 'catch', push 'in' on the plug, mash the catch, then pull.

Many are offering advise and Meninblk is largely right for AFTERMARKET systems.

I am on point, here and understand you are working with a stock sub and system and all advice of mine above is based on that.

A 'ground' is a place where the -12 volt is gotten from chassis or frame. In general, +12v is wired and -12v is picked up from ground near the 'device'. You would be looking for places where there's a bolt with a wire going to it. In general, they are green 10mm bolts in our cars. The one I led you to above is green and has several wires (with loop eye ends) going to it.

I HIGHLY doubt your factory sub is blown.

[magindat]

If you need to, give me a call. PM for my number.
Rich

[Aren Jay]

.............................. ........

[magindat]

Get your tools and crap together on Saturday or Sunday. PM me for my number. I'll give you instructions and you tell me results. You'll nail it down pretty quickly.

[Aren Jay]

.............................. ........

[Dr Caleb]

Does the grey connector plug the amp to the sub?

No, IIRC it's power and signal for the amp.

But, ether way, the sub won't function.

[Aren Jay]

.............................. ........