Avic-D3 / Sub / Amp / Speakers / XM Install [Archive]

arejayesss

08-27-2007, 03:56 PM

For those of you who don't know, I was the lucky 2nd place winner in the Power Adder Raffle held for MVV. The prize I won was the Avic-D3 from Pioneer. It is a double-din head unit that is an all-in-one Audio/Video and Navigation Unit (You can Google it for all the info) I couldn't put this unit in without upgrading the speakers from stock and adding a 10" sub and power amp:D. One problem though, I was not nearly knowledgable enough to pull off the install. So, I contacted the one and only Rich (magindat) With 20 years experience, including numerous Marauders and Avic units, I knew he was the one to call. I had spoke to him several times prior, and met him once at the Tower Shops in Davie. So, we set a date (this past weekend) and I drove up to Vero B!tch (about 3.5 hrs, not bad) We got started bright and early Saturday morning about 8:30 am or so. He had already picked up the materials to build the custom sub box, and got started on that. Meanwhile I began to strip my car of everything that was in the way. Emptied out the trunk, including the carpet / liner so that all that was left was the bare metal. I unbolted and unplugged the cd changer (yes, its for sale and I'll post that later) Rich had some Colex (not sure on spelling) spray that he used to coat certain strategic spots in the trunk that are thin. continued.............

arejayesss

08-27-2007, 04:14 PM

I continued to remove the back seats and third brake light and the rear deck and the two pillar posts. Then the speakers are easy to get to, so I took out the old ones and cut the plug and rewired the plug for the new pioneer premier speakers (TS-D801P - 260 watt 2-way, purchased from John's Stereo) which was very simple to do. After that, I was able to remove the stock sub/amp combo (also for sale) by removing 4 bolts on top of the rear deck lid. Meanwhile, Rich was continuing the box assembly. It is just shy of a cubic foot, and airtight thanks to gorilla glue. It was then covered in grey carpet to match the trunk, and done seamlessly by Rich. CAUTION: When using a propellant of any type, including compressor powered glue gun, make sure to not overspray past the carpet:P Then the hole was cut in the bottom for the connections, connections were made, sealed with black silicone. Then the power amp was attached to the sub box, and connected.
continued...................

arejayesss

08-27-2007, 04:22 PM

Then we ran the wires up the sides of the car, including rca on the drivers side and the ground and power on the passenger side. There is already a channel built in for running wires under the door sill panels, apparently used for police applications. Put the trunk back together and put sub and amp into place and wired them up. There are several grounding screws throughout the car, but we used the one right behind the passenger side rear seat, at lower back level. You can tighten up all the slack from the wires in the back with zip-ties. Another police-related advantage we have is the metal support behind the rear seat have a plethora of mounting holes that we used to drill several screws through to the back of the sub box to keep it in place. continued...................

arejayesss

08-27-2007, 04:33 PM

Rich began to work on prepping the Avic D3's wiring harness for installation. I proceeded to put the back end of the car back together. Oh yeah, as a final 'RICH' touch on the sub, a small piece of Diamond Plate was attached to the box holding two red LEDs that he wired off of the trunk light, which is blocked now anyways. Then we attacked the dashboard and removed several panels. Removed the radio, a/c and the 300A clock. I ran the antenna wires for the XM and the navigation. I placed the antennas on the front of the dash passenger side by the windshield, and ran the wires up under the glove box. Rich when to town with his handheld dash molester. THE AVIC D3 DOES NOT FIT IN OUR STOCK SETUP WITHOUT MODIFICATION. He had to remove material in the back and on the sides in order to accomodate the D3(Kids, please get your parent's permission before doing this step) He used a small sawzall type tool to cut out the extraneous material. continued................

arejayesss

08-27-2007, 04:48 PM

The XM module was able to fit underneath the a/c control, quite perfectly actually. The angle that the a/c module screws in actually secures the xm module in place. The optional iPod cable connects to the D3 and runs through into the glove box. All other appropriate connections and bypasses were made, and with a few adjustments, the D3 slid and locked in. Did a quick system check, powered on, everything good so far. Turned back off. Ran the Power through the factory grommet on the passenger side, cut it and fused it, and hooked it up to the battery. Then, the last step was front speakers that went in with no incident. There are posts about front door panel removal available with a search of the forums. Then, power up and test her out. Rich had a 'tuning' mp3 cd that he likes using to set all the parameters from bass boost to sub-sonic filter to the EQ. Then:beer:

Then dinner time.

All in all I had a blast and learned so much about my car and stereo thingies. Rich and his GF were great hosts at their nice house there in Vero B!tch. Chicken Nuggets, sandwiches, soda, beer, what else could I have asked for? I can not stress enough how knowledgable Rich is about all things car audio. He knows all the scientological formulationaries behind the great sound he produces. Even he was surprised by the sound I'm getting. OK pics to follow................

arejayesss

08-27-2007, 04:53 PM

11458
Naked Trunk with spray

11459
Rear seats removed

11460
Close up of Cascade spray on outer trunk walls

11461
Box assembly

11462
Pioneer Premier mounted

arejayesss

08-27-2007, 04:59 PM

11463
Removing the stock Sub / Amp Combo

11464
Sub Box

11465
Completed Sub Box w/ amp

11466
Diamond Plate LEDs

11467
Rich going to town

arejayesss

08-27-2007, 05:03 PM

11468
No Dissasemble! Johnny #5 is alive!!

11469
XM Module being tucked away under the a/c

11470
So Pretty!!!!!!!!

arejayesss

08-27-2007, 05:10 PM

OK I'm done now!! Let me just say that this did not turn out to be a step by step tutorial for the process. While I did do alot of the work, Rich was the one who knew what was going on. I could of gotten tons more pictures, but I wanted to get down and dirty!! If you have any technical questions or concerns, both Rich (magindat) and John Kuhn are the seasoned veterans here. And John has excellent prices through this forum and I highly recommend you buy from him. Sorry this post was so long, but I could of made it longer with more details, so don't complain.

P.S. I will follow this up with some reviews of the new components when I have had a chance to play with them all!!

Thanks again John and Rich.

rjs

Drewstang

08-27-2007, 05:59 PM

I'd like to see the trunk finished if you have a pic. I want to do away with the OEM sub/amp as well.

arejayesss

08-27-2007, 06:31 PM

I'd like to see the trunk finished if you have a pic. I want to do away with the OEM sub/amp as well.

Ask and you shall receive....
11471

11472

11473

OneBADLsE

08-27-2007, 06:48 PM

I hereby nominate this thread to be stickified!

Awesome work man!!! A nice OEM looking speaker grill on that MTX and you would think it came that way!

:cool:

magindat

08-28-2007, 04:50 AM

The sound deadening material is called CASCADE. It is a spray on material which is MUCH easier to work with than dynamat and is a little cheaper by the square foot of coverage. A mere 1/32 of an inch is all that's required to deaden most panels.

If you've never used it before, mask EVERYTHING. It is heavy and highly pressurized and rebounds like crazy.

magindat

08-28-2007, 04:53 AM

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11 471&d=1188264624

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11 470&d=1188259271

Superb write up Ryan. It was a fun weekend and we are glad you enjoyed it. Let me know when you are ready for the PT install!!!

magindat

08-28-2007, 04:55 AM

I hereby nominate this thread to be stickified!:cool:

Ryan, get those speaker color codes up and I'll do the harness right behind you. Then this SHOULD be stickified!!!

magindat

08-28-2007, 05:01 AM

John did an EXCELLENT job of putting together an install kit which included EVERY connection, wire and crimp end I'd need. This was hand selected stuff, not off-the-shelf! I only had to supply crimp caps and a few parts of my own to do it 'my way'. For those buying a system from John, you couldn't get a more thorough treatment and you WON'T be left scrounging for parts. I've had the SAME experience TWICE with John's supplies.

We are lucky to have him as a vendor and friend.

magindat

08-28-2007, 05:04 AM

I'd like to see the trunk finished if you have a pic. I want to do away with the OEM sub/amp as well.

I have retained the measurements for this box. I will gladly make you one in any stage of completion. It could be cut wood, assembled wood, carpeted, fully loaded, whatever, and then ship it to you. This size will accommodate most quality 10" woofers on the market. PM me.

Further, I have a way to get the stock radio to play an after-market amp.

magindat

08-28-2007, 05:18 AM

I can not stress enough how knowledgable Rich is about all things car audio. He knows all the scientological formulationaries behind the great sound he produces. Even he was surprised by the sound I'm getting.

Contrary to my doubts based on my 10 year old opinion of MTX, I have trusted John twice and put MTX into Marauders. I'm now a believer in today's MTX products and I now know that in addition to my being VERY impressed, John will stand behind the warranty.

Pops

08-28-2007, 05:33 AM

Nice thread here! You guys did a great job on Ryans car! It takes a lot of time to do these jobs right. By the way where are the Pork Rinds at Rich!

magindat

08-28-2007, 05:41 AM

Nice thread here! You guys did a great job on Ryans car! It takes a lot of time to do these jobs right. By the way where are the Pork Rinds at Rich!.

I count 39 man-hrs between the two of us including gathering materials, coaching, the drive back and forth, and cleaning up after.

7 Ryan: drive
2 Ryan: Order, receive, pack components
2 Rich: gather material and precut wood
12 Ryan: Saturday work and learn
12 Rich: Saturday work and coach
4 -(2 each) Sunday clean up

arejayesss

08-28-2007, 06:30 AM

The sound deadening material is called CASCADE.

I don't know where I got Colex from:lol: There was so much put into my head this weekend that it is spewing out random words! I will post those wire colors this evening when I get home, Rich. By the way, Why don't they just make them black for negative and red for positive? There must be a good reason for their color combinations, because Ford would never do anything that made no sense:)

Pops

08-28-2007, 06:33 AM

We sell the sound deadner here. It does work nice.

BruteForce

08-28-2007, 07:40 AM

arejayesss

08-28-2007, 08:18 AM

Could you post (or PM me) a shot of the corner where the CD changer was taken out? Did you replace the liner in that area? I want to take mine out but am concerned that the liner has holes in it for the changer and that it will look like crap once it take it out.

Yeah, when I get home this evening I will take a pic for you. It doesn't look too bad, but it doesn't look too good either. If you can find a trunk liner from a car without the changer option, it should fit into place nicely I'm assuming. I am going to see if I can make something to cover the hole with some scraps from the sub box. My other thought was to make some type of 'bin' or compartment to hold my jumper cables and any other things I like to keep in my trunk. That might be my best option. But I will post the pic later.......

magindat

08-28-2007, 10:15 AM

I don't know where I got Colex from:lol: There was so much put into my head this weekend that it is spewing out random words! I will post those wire colors this evening when I get home, Rich. By the way, Why don't they just make them black for negative and red for positive? There must be a good reason for their color combinations, because Ford would never do anything that made no sense:)

Because there's four of 'em at the dash and that means 8 wires to distinguish, not to mention the sub signal and turn on wires and the changer control and return wires. Ford HAS been good about keeping the same color combo across models and through the years.

magindat

08-28-2007, 10:20 AM

and the magic is revealed....

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/3/5/4/8/ford24.jpg

14 is the speed sensor and 18 is the signal from the steering wheel remote.

The rest are color coded to match your radio harness if you purchase an adapter harness.

For all AVIC models... DO NOT connect any illumination (orange or orange/white) wires. AVICs have an automatic light sensor built in.

rvaldez1

08-28-2007, 10:32 AM

What kind of wood is that box made of??? It does not look like MDF, it looks like.

magindat

08-28-2007, 10:35 AM

What kind of wood is that box made of??? It does not look like MDF, it looks like.

3/4" 13 ply furniture grade. MDF would work, but rigidity is key to a box this small. Density is very close to MDF with 13 ply. This material is TWICE the cost of MDF.

arejayesss

08-28-2007, 05:27 PM

BruteForce

08-28-2007, 05:35 PM

Thanks for the pics. Looks pretty good. I've decided to fill mine with a Pioneer 6 disc changer. Minor fab work on the brackets and it should fit right in.

arejayesss

08-28-2007, 05:43 PM

Contrary to info Rich found at a website, the following is the correct wiring for the four speakers:

Front Right Speaker POSITIVE- White / Light Green
Front Right Speaker NEGATIVE- The other one, duh!! (Green / Orange)
Front Left Speaker POSITIVE- Orange / Light Green
Front Left Speaker NEGATIVE- Light Blue / White
Rear Right Speaker POSITIVE- Orange / Red
Rear Right Speaker NEGATIVE- Brown / Pink
Rear Left Speaker POSITIVE- Gray / Blue
Rear Left Speaker NEGATIVE- Tan / Yellow

IMPORTANT: This wiring information is provided by Rich, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter. Rich assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. Rich assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from an improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.

Drewstang

08-28-2007, 09:30 PM

I have retained the measurements for this box. I will gladly make you one in any stage of completion. It could be cut wood, assembled wood, carpeted, fully loaded, whatever, and then ship it to you. This size will accommodate most quality 10" woofers on the market. PM me.

Further, I have a way to get the stock radio to play an after-market amp.
Will do. I was an installer at Best Buy for nearly a year. I've done everything besides building boxes, and that is because my mechanical skills far exceed my carpentry skills.:lol:

magindat

08-29-2007, 05:05 AM

IMPORTANT: This wiring information is provided by Rich, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter. Rich assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. Rich assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from an improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.

Now THAT's good stuff, right there!!!!! However, upon this color code, Ryan's speakers were all wired correctly and in phase. But don't come cryin to me if you screw it up!!!!

magindat

08-29-2007, 05:08 AM

OK, John and mods, this one is ready for a sticky at the top of John's forum. It now contains all the reference info I've ever needed to do a Marauder system and would be a great place for one-stop info.

Sticky Please!!!!!

SILVERSURFER03

08-29-2007, 05:30 AM

I like the sub placement. iv'e got to 12in subs takes up to much trunk space..how does it sound there.. like i said looks real good

arejayesss

08-29-2007, 05:59 AM

I like the sub placement. iv'e got to 12in subs takes up to much trunk space..how does it sound there.. like i said looks real good

Sound is phenominal, whether I've got an old Dick Dale song on, or Tool, or Bette Middler (wind beneath my wings). There is a suprising amount of bass available to me. I put on 'Don't Phunk With My Heart' by the Black Eyed Peas and WOW!! Ghetto phabulos!! But, when I put in a good hard rock n' roll song, the bass is sharp and precise. This is all thanks to Richs ear and his tuning, along with the science he applied to everything including the construction of the sub box.

traveleriii

09-23-2007, 12:29 PM

Is that a full size spare in the trunk?...If so did any cutting or anything have to be done to do so?

Pops

09-24-2007, 05:19 AM

They were able to leave the full size spare in the trunk. This worked out nice!

magindat

09-24-2007, 05:20 AM

Is that a full size spare in the trunk?...If so did any cutting or anything have to be done to do so?
No cutting in the trunk, just careful measuring.

duhtroll

09-25-2007, 07:23 AM

Thanks for the thread reference!

Just out of curiosity, what am I looking at as far as costs go, ballpark, for this setup?

Pops

09-25-2007, 07:26 AM

I need to know what all you want to do. PM me with a list and I will figure it out for you. You can also call at 269 637 1994.

John

magindat

09-25-2007, 07:36 AM

Thanks for the thread reference!

Just out of curiosity, what am I looking at as far as costs go, ballpark, for this setup?

Same setup is

Avic D3 w/kit/harness
MTX 300 amp
MTX 5500 10" sub
Cabling/etc
I'll build and line the box for $150. Or John can price it for ya and I'll pass on the measurements.

arejayesss

09-25-2007, 07:43 AM

Same setup is

Avic D3 w/kit/harness
MTX 300 amo
MTX 5500 10" sub
Cabling/etc
I'll build and line the box for $150. Or John can price it for ya and I'll pass on the measurements.

Don't forget the speakers!! Pioneer Premiers (REVs)

Yeah, that MTX 300 AMO is great, you won't be firing blanks anymore!!

musclemerc

09-25-2007, 01:24 PM

That is one SEXY install.... You must be a good boy to deserve that kind of help. Great job Rich! Coming from a home automation tech you made it look like a professional installation

magindat

10-08-2007, 07:00 AM

Damn nice trunk setup!

Sent email. My PM's are screwed up.

LilCop2002

10-10-2007, 06:41 AM

Damn nice trunk setup!

empeguser

11-10-2007, 03:26 PM

Hello, I was wondering where the trim ring around the d3 came from, did it come with it? The top and bottom looks very thin did you have to trim it that way? I just got a d3 but it was an open box and it did not come with a trim ring or sleeve, that it why I am asking. Thanks in advance.

MACFORD88

11-10-2007, 03:30 PM

Nice Work:)

magindat

11-13-2007, 06:38 AM

blacksheep_03

01-30-2008, 08:55 PM

Very nice job. Looks stock. Are the volume, and mode buttons on your steering wheel still active? That is my main quetion of any head unit swap.

magindat

01-31-2008, 05:38 AM

gonzo50

02-01-2008, 05:03 PM

Very nice job. Looks stock. Are the volume, and mode buttons on your steering wheel still active? That is my main quetion of any head unit swap.

There's several different interface modules depending on brand and model of HU. So, the answer is 95% yes.

There is a module for this install. These work.
Can this Head Unit,(CD Receiver FH-P800BT Premier Double DIN), work with this set up, with the MTX 300 AMP, MTX 5500 10" SUB, and have the steering wheel buttons still work. I also would like to upgrade the CD changer to Pioneer Premier CDX-P686, 6 disc changer. Can all of this work together, and is it available, I would like to get this set up if possible and have magindat install it for me at his convenience.;)

arejayesss

02-01-2008, 07:05 PM

magindat

02-02-2008, 04:26 PM

Can this Head Unit,(CD Receiver FH-P800BT Premier Double DIN), work with this set up, with the MTX 300 AMP, MTX 5500 10" SUB, and have the steering wheel buttons still work. I also would like to upgrade the CD changer to Pioneer Premier CDX-P686, 6 disc changer. Can all of this work together, and is it available, I would like to get this set up if possible and have magindat install it for me at his convenience.;)

Yep. All that will work together. However, I suggest the 12 disc changer. I know it fits in the factory location with a little creativity (I did it on Dennis') and it's only a few buck difference.

Dude, you need to PM me. And lets talk on the phone. I can actually pre-do some of the stuff.

We have room for you here and there's lodging nearby, too.

PM for the number.

Thanx for the props, Ryan... Check out the KING KONG thread!!!
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=41476

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12 156&d=1201988319

Ryan, can you imagine?! 1250W! I think you started a trend!!!

arejayesss

02-02-2008, 04:45 PM

Awww man! All I can say is I hope him and I are racing and we both get a flat tire. I can continue on!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Windsor58

03-20-2008, 09:48 PM

Any chance of a picture of the XM and GPS antennas? Are they mounted on top of the dash or hidden underneath?

magindat

03-21-2008, 05:04 AM

Pic at the end of the document:
http://www.magindat.net/ssm/info/AVIC/Install.htm

http://www.magindat.net/ssm/info/AVIC/Install_files/image034.jpg

arejayesss

03-21-2008, 08:49 AM

Yup, looks just about where I've got mine. Passenger side, all the way up on the dash in that corner. PLENTY of cable is included, in fact I could have made two laps of the car interior and still placed them where they are at. The ONLY problem I'VE had with this location is that, on occasion, when headed due north, the satellite radio cuts out. Otherwise great location.

Pops

03-21-2008, 08:55 AM

Ryan I have the same problem in the GM on the north run. I am going to try it under the header panel like Kenny suggested when the next stereo goes in. We have put them under the fiberglass of boats and they seem to work fine. More in another month.

magindat

03-21-2008, 09:14 AM

Due north.

That puts the entire cabin and roof in the way of the signal. (Due south) The azimuth is steep and I figured the antenna was far enough forward to get in front of the roof.

Somehow I don't think putting it under the header panel will help since the entire roof structure and cabin will still be in the way of the signal.

I know it's south and up at a pretty steep angle Perhaps those few inches forward are enough to avoid the line of sight going through the cabin structure?

fastblackmerc

03-21-2008, 09:16 AM

What about on the rear deck? Maybe along side the hi mount stop light or inside the housing?

Pops

03-21-2008, 09:17 AM

I will no more on this later Rich. I have had it on the dash and on the third tail lamp and had issues either way.

magindat

03-21-2008, 09:19 AM

What about on the rear deck? Maybe along side the hi mount stop light or inside the housing?

Would work, but you'd be screwed going south. The rear windshield is not as sloped as the front and allows even less angle to 'get out from under' the roof for the signal. There is certainly more than enough wire for it, though!

Pops

03-21-2008, 09:20 AM

You got it! Tried it going to Atlanta with each set up and thats what happened.

magindat

03-21-2008, 09:28 AM

Here are the Sirius and XM elevations for various points in the US.

magindat

03-21-2008, 09:40 AM

In this picture, for the antenna on the passenger dash:

Sirius in Miami would be close to good and may only experience occasional outages (yellow).

Sirius in Detroit would have an even easier time of it. (red)

XM in Seattle would SUCK! (blue)

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/3/5/4/8/untitled1.jpg

This is a SUPER OVER-SIMPLIFIED drawing for the sake of discussion so keep your flames to yourself!!!

We could get into the true azimuth angle vs the Zenith of the antenna... blah blah. Keep it simple..

OOH. That gives me an idea. When we place the antenna on the passenger dash, the wire trails to the right. if we trailed the wire forward or toward the rear of the car would it make any difference. I'd think not since I'd have confidence in Pioneer putting out an antenna with a fairly round Zenith. It's worth a try, though. Ryan?

arejayesss

03-21-2008, 03:03 PM

It's worth a try, though. Ryan?

Yesssir, I shall do this. It does make sense and I have thought of this in the past, but never executed the plan. Like I have stated before, I have ample wire to relocate. Hey, maybe I could cut a 2" x 3" hole in the roof and mount the antenna there. I could put a piece of glass on to cover it, it would be the worlds smallest sunroof, and allow better transmittal of signals. I'll be right back, I need to get my sawzall...............

Pops

03-22-2008, 06:03 AM

Ryan go ahead and do that so we can call you bubble head!

Windsor58

03-22-2008, 12:13 PM

Thanks for the responses.

Speaking of roof - what would it take to mount the antennae on the roof? Can the wire be routed out the bottom of the antenna, so that only a small wire size hole would do?

Another option? - can two antennae be used, with one on the dash and one near the thrid brake light, such that when one is blocked the other isn't? I'm not sure, but I suspect the XM or Sirius won't mind two antenna, but the GPS might not like two unless the radio is set up to recognize two antennae.

Chip

Pops

03-22-2008, 12:36 PM

Only one antenna. You can route the antenna wire under the windshield mldg and put the antenna on the roof. We put most of them there.

computertech

09-27-2010, 03:54 AM

I just (2 weeks ago) installed the Avic-F90BT,question,.. how important is it to connect the speed sensor wire ? The local stereo shop I asked said no big deal ? It works perfectly without it connected so far as I can tell....

Just curious, thanks....

Super writeup by the way

:burnout:

and the magic is revealed....

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/3/5/4/8/ford24.jpg

14 is the speed sensor and 18 is the signal from the steering wheel remote.

The rest are color coded to match your radio harness if you purchase an adapter harness.

For all AVIC models... DO NOT connect any illumination (orange or orange/white) wires. AVICs have an automatic light sensor built in.