Spring compressor for front shock replacement?

[MMM2003]

Hey:

I have over 120k miles on my MM and started replacing some items. I did the rear shocks & wiper motor last weekend and plan to do all brakes and the front shocks this weekend.

I did some research and bought the FOMOCO service manual (DVD) and was wondering if there is a specific brand or model of spring compressor we have to use. I need to rent one from my local auto supply shop.

Can anyone recommend a specific brand or model to use? Do we need special tooling to use on our size spring and strut assembly?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Peter aka MMM2003

[magindat]

The spring compressors you can borrow from Autozone are just barely sufficient.

These are marginally better as they have 2 hooks and safety clips.
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/mds-sg62900_w.jpg
Summit MDS-SG62900 $29.95

This type is much better:
http://www.thepartsbin.com/cartools/images/otc-7560.jpg
But runs over $300.

You should be fine with the ones from Summit. Take your time, be gentle (don't drop or jar the spring while compressed). Compress the spring with the cap nut still on.

Do not stand or have your hands toward either end of the spring while it's compressed. Stand and work to the side of the spring. A vise to hold the strut upright is helpful.

[MMM2003]

Thank you! I order the set from Summit racing. I'm sure I'll use them again and last time I rented one from the auto parts supply it was a piece of *****.

Thanks again for your quick response!

Peter

[Jon01]

You might want to check around as to what a shop would charge to pop the springs and stuff off of the old ones and onto the new ones using their tool.
Last set I had done was only $30.
Had I known it was going to be that cheap I'd have just done that on previous spring swaps and had it wrapped up by noon rather than battling with the DIY tools all day.

[Breadfan]

I have a set much like the ones from Summit pictured above. I used them to do replace all four springs on my previous car. (It had struts all the way around).

It worked, but I will say, from the point they went on each spring, until they were off, not much felt safe about that timeframe!

So, bear in mind, it's a tough, and unsafe procedure that you need experience to do. In addition, you definitely need to follow safety precautions such as those Rich pointed out above.

[sabtaj1]

I would recomend a shop do it. The stock coils are very stout! I usually do everything myself but when I tried doin the coils on mine they didnt really seem to want to give. SO I said screw it and had them done in like 30 min. Wouldnt even attempt it again. LOL. pretty scary.

[Breadfan]

I would recomend a shop do it. The stock coils are very stout! I usually do everything myself but when I tried doin the coils on mine they didnt really seem to want to give. SO I said screw it and had them done in like 30 min. Wouldnt even attempt it again. LOL. pretty scary.

A good point, these are going to be tougher springs due to the weight of the car, even if you've done smaller cars it may not be the same...

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Don't Forget The Allignment Afterwards.

[Jon01]

I would recomend a shop do it. The stock coils are very stout! I usually do everything myself but when I tried doin the coils on mine they didnt really seem to want to give. SO I said screw it and had them done in like 30 min. Wouldnt even attempt it again. LOL. pretty scary.

Another good point, heavier car=heavier springs.

The time difference alone would be worth it IMO. I don't know about you guys but to save 1/2 of a Saturday by paying a shop $30-$40 to swap the springs out is well worth the $.
If you're calling around make sure they quote you based on you pulling the assembly off and bringing it to them, not $ for them to pull it, change and reinstall.
Anybody know, will the lower ball joint have to be popped off of the spindle to get them out or can the arm be taken loose at the crossmember?

[sabtaj1]

UPPER BALL JOINT, SILLY! Someone will have to confirm but I think I undid the sway bar lnks (both sides to make it easier) and the upper ball joints. You may need a prybar to get em out. took me a little while to figure it out but after that is was cake. Have a shop do it! coils are dangerouse, especially ours. done many but wont touch the marauder ones.

[O's Fan Rich]

I did the spring thing... used the KD spring tool.... yeah... get a shop to do it, or get a better compressor. Pull the unit out and whip it over to a shop and stick back in when it's all back to gether... then alignment.

[KillJoy]

Uhhh.... you can go and rent a Spring Compressor from Autozone or Advance Auto Parts for FREE!!!! You give them a deposit, take the tool, bring the tool backm get your Deposit back.

unless you will be swapping shocks often.... why buy one???

:dunno:

KillJoy

[magindat]

Uhhh.... you can go and rent a Spring Compressor from Autozone or Advance Auto Parts for FREE!!!! You give them a deposit, take the tool, bring the tool backm get your Deposit back.

unless you will be swapping shocks often.... why buy one???

:dunno:

KillJoy

But they are:

1) Junk
2) Barely strong enough for ricer springs

[KillJoy]

But they are:

1) Junk
2) Barely strong enough for ricer springs

I did mine in about 2 hrs total with one, and it looks JUST LIKE the ones in the Pic you posted. I had no issues, or worries.

But whatever...

KillJoy

[O's Fan Rich]

I'll tell you what.... when you see those cheaper compressors start to bow a bit under tension, and realize that if that sucker snaps you'll lose parts of your anatomy or worse... you start asking "WTF am I doing? Joe's house of springs can do this for a 50!"

Yeah..... top shelf compressor or the guy's that have one next time around.

[magindat]

I did mine in about 2 hrs total with one, and it looks JUST LIKE the ones in the Pic you posted. I had no issues, or worries.

But whatever...

KillJoy

The top pic or bottom pic?

The autozone down here lends the one like the top pic, but a cheaper version. Bowed like a banana on RICER springs. As I posted, the bottom pic is best if you can borrow one!

[KillJoy]

The top pic or bottom pic?

The autozone down here lends the one like the top pic, but a cheaper version. Bowed like a banana on RICER springs. As I posted, the bottom pic is best if you can borrow one!


The top one. You use two per spring.

:up:

KillJoy

[finster101]

Not to step on anyones toes here. But this really is a job for those who are well experienced. Taking the assy out is not a problem, but disassembly should be done by a profesional with the right equip. People can be and are seriously injured by springs like this. I know a lot of guys talk about cutting a coil off or changing shocks but if you don't have the know how or equip. available pay to have it done. How much is your nose or one of your fingers worth? I am an ASE Master Tech with over 25 years of experience and I seen these go really wrong.

[jgc61sr2002]

Not to step on anyones toes here. But this really is a job for those who are well experienced. Taking the assy out is not a problem, but disassembly should be done by a profesional with the right equip. People can be and are seriously injured by springs like this. I know a lot of guys talk about cutting a coil off or changing shocks but if you don't have the know how or equip. available pay to have it done. How much is your nose or one of your fingers worth? I am an ASE Master Tech with over 25 years of experience and I seen these go really wrong.



I concur. ^^^^^^^^^

[MMM2003]

Thanks for all the replies. I will take your thoughs and recommendation into consideration. I'm having a friend assist me who has done this before. I'll wait and see how things.

Didn't realize I need an alignment afterwards. Good point!

Thanks,

Peter

[magindat]

I have seen a spring let go and pierce a steel roof. I have MASSIVE respect for these things. Hence my suggestions of working to the side of the spring and avoiding the ends and not jarring it or letting it fall. Everyone has a first time. We're helping this guy's first time be safe and successful. It's up to him to know his limits.

[KillJoy]

Blah, blah, blah

Kevin Smith ROCKS!!!


:rasta:

:rock:

KillJoy

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

Everyone has a first time. We're helping this guy's first time be safe and successful.

That's what she said.

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

Didn't realize I need an alignment afterwards. Good point!

Let's see, caster adjusts on the rearmost lower control arm bushing, camber adjusts on the cradle. Changing the strut should not touch the alignment. If this were a FWD GM where camber adjusted on the knuckle-to-strut mount, and caster adjusted up top at the upper strut mount, that would be a different story. I think hitting a small pothole will jar your alignment more than taking a strut out and putting it back in.

[magindat]

Let's see, caster adjusts on the rearmost lower control arm bushing, camber adjusts on the cradle. Changing the strut should not touch the alignment. If this were a FWD GM where camber adjusted on the knuckle-to-strut mount, and caster adjusted up top at the upper strut mount, that would be a different story. I think hitting a small pothole will jar your alignment more than taking a strut out and putting it back in.
Somewhere in here, someone may have assumed he's cutting the springs while they are out.

Clarification: replacement should not need an alignment. Cutting WILL!

[O's Fan Rich]

Somewhere in here, someone may have assumed he's cutting the springs while they are out.

Clarification: replacement should not need an alignment. Cutting WILL!

I suggested the alignment, Rich.... didn't assume a thing.
Maybe I'm crazy, but, a $70.00 alignment is worth the cost of new front tires to me. Even if I don't cut springs, which I did, which will be replaced by the QA-1 setup that sits in boxes in my shop... then alignment again!
And I just had it aligned in August, too.