What is the best way to get 100 extra Horse Power?

[Aren Jay]

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[RCSignals]

Supercharge

[cyclopsram]

you can get 300 extra horsepower just by adding a second engine.

[marauderboi]

Nitrous but just make sure you have a good tune

[Mike Poore]

Since you said "best" way, and not cheapest, I'll agree with Duncan and say,
SUPERCHARGE, and of course, a proper tune.

Laughing Gas is quick, cheap and dirty; but as our old friends Click & Clack say, "It's the stingy man who pays the most".

There was a time I would have considered a fogger kit ....no more, not with stock innards on an MM motor, anyway.

[MarauderTJA]

Nitrous is the least expensive way, Supercharging overall is better (no bottles to refill) but initial cost is obviously higher. Both require proper tuning.

[ckadiddle]

Put a Mini Cooper in your trunk. ;)

[chader]

s/c............................

[bugsys03]

Buy a Mopar?:run::run::run:

[SamF]

Get under pressure. S/C it. :D

[teamrope]

Buy a Mopar?:run::run::run:

Why would we want to have Most of our Original Parts Already Replaced?

[Smokie]

What is the best way to get 100 extra Horse Power?

Bolt on's can give you about 50-55 rwhp, beyond that point you are expending so much money that a S/C is far more cost effective in the long run (my opinion) You asked about 100 hp.

By now you are aware what nitrous can do pros and cons. Good luck.:)

[sailsmen]

Supercharge it. U can start w/ a non IC unit and get 100hp.

At a recent cruise I looked at a Super Bee, $45+K.

My MM out runs every SRT8 I have seen at the track, including several w/ some big $$$ mods.

[Blackened300a]

100 HP is a general question, What are you looking for as far as a 1/4 mile time?

[rvaldez1]

100 HP is a general question, What are you looking for as far as a 1/4 mile time?


Excellent Point

[CRUZTAKER]

My MM out runs every SRT8 I have seen at the track, including several w/ some big $$$ mods.

Ditto. Without spray as well.

Here hemi, hemi, hemi...:cool:

[bigjon]

if you like to tinker, bolt-ons can be more fun for you. that is what i did.

when i get bored with my car, then i will add a s/c. who knows, after some good bolt-ons you may be more than happy with the performance.

[RCSignals]

Buy a Mopar?:run::run::run:

I hear the new owners of Chrysler are bringing back the K car.

[sabtaj1]

I hear the new owners of Chrysler are bringing back the K car.

I am willing to bet the new ford model T wont keep up with it though.:lol:

[Aren Jay]

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If you want to go fast in a straight line, buy a rocket. If you want to go fast in a circle tie a string to it.

[sabtaj1]

well, if its a road course you are after then no bottle for you.

[Blackened300a]

I just want to be able to get there fast.

0-60mph in 5 seconds would be great though.

But I still need it driveable in winter.

With the right traction, I have pulled 5.3 seconds 0-60 on a G-tech with just walking out the throttle. A hard launch with traction and I may even pull a high 4 second 0-60.
This is all done without the use of a S/C or nitrous. Just bolt-ons and a good tune.
Plus my car is very drivable in the winter and on a daily basis.

[fastcar]

Hmmm. 5.3 0-60? That is pretty amazing! I'm going to test my 0-60 out with the Vericom VC200, and get back to you all on this thread. I will be testing on the stock tires and on the street, so it will be real world numbers...

There have been a lot of interesting points made on this thread. As one statede, it's a lot of fun doing small mods, and sneaking up on your target. And as blackened has put forth, you can definitely get awesome 0-60s with bolt-ons..

I'm not sure what the problem is with SC cars in the winter, that a block heater couldn't solve. But, if it's a real issue or not, the money sure is. Installed, someone recently told me that a Trilogy is like $6000.

I don't like the NOS option AT ALL.

If you are willing to do heads, cams and a tune, along with the other usual suspects (headers, and the works: CAI, water pump, UDs, spacers, throttle body, etc.) you can definitely get over 400 flywheel horsepower.

With 4.10 - 4.56 gears, you will probably be looking at deep 4 second 0-60s, esp. with control arms, and slightly stickier tires.

But this route will eventually cost you the same amount as the blower! A complete SSW exhaust system UNINSTALLED is over $2000. FMS cams are $1600, UNINSTALLED. Then head work.

However, you can make more power, and have more upward potential with a SC, for the same $$$.

The other option is to get gears, and go for all the add ons you can, WITHOUT opening the motor (no headwork, or cams). As someone stated
this will net you about 50-60, tops.

But, another 60 HP on one of these cars with the right gears, control arms and tires will give you an AWESOME ride, and WICKED CHEAP, too.

This may be your best option. There are many folks on this forum, (blackend is one of them) who are deep into the 13s, with a really cost effective setup. I don't even think blackened has headers, and he has a corrected time of 13.67! That's really, really fast for a boat like this, with a wee little engine.

This is personally my tactic. For $2500, you can create a mid to high 13 second ride out of one of these things. I think that is pretty awesome. It's not all in the HP. If you want super 0-60s, the BEST mods are in the driveline (gears and PI TC)

Definitely keep us posted as to what you do...

fastcar:burnout:

[RCSignals]

I am willing to bet the new ford model T wont keep up with it though.:lol:

Ever drive a K car? :lol:

[magindat]

I'm not interested in 1/4 mile times.

I really couldn't care less if I can go over 100MPH.

I just want to be able to get there fast.

0-60mph in 5 seconds would be great though.

But I still need it driveable in winter.

I was just wondering if Super Chargering was my only option.

I didn't consider Nitrous and I don't really want too.

I also don't want to spend $10K on a Super Charger kit that will give me 200+ extra horse power and necessitate me spending another $10-20K on an acceptable winter car.

If I were to do any kind of track racing it would be on a road course.

Based on your criteria and climate, you are a perfect candidate for Reinhart's non-IC kit. I believe it was significantly under $4K. It is relatively easy to install and makes the kind of power you are looking for with not other mods. I've seen it first hand.

Centrifugals are tame in the lower RPMs, so your winter drive-ability shouldn't suffer at all.

Lastly, because of the filter placement and blow-off valve configuration, it is nearly silent in the lower RPMs, therefore 'stealthy' and not obnoxiously loud.

[BigCars4Ever]

you can get 300 extra horsepower just by adding a second engine.
"I put another engine in my car.....I didn't remove the old one.....now my car goes 200MPH....and that harmonica sounds great"--Steven Wright

[GA-Marauder]

Based on your criteria and climate, you are a perfect candidate for Reinhart's non-IC kit. I believe it was significantly under $4K. It is relatively easy to install and makes the kind of power you are looking for with not other mods. I've seen it first hand.

Centrifugals are tame in the lower RPMs, so your winter drive-ability shouldn't suffer at all.

Lastly, because of the filter placement and blow-off valve configuration, it is nearly silent in the lower RPMs, therefore 'stealthy' and not obnoxiously loud.

QUESTION: Has the performance of the non-IC kit been evaluated in the stessful heat environment here in FL (although I guess anywhere in the midwest or south this summer would have been a good proving ground)? Dennis, or whoever has this kit, can you address this?

Thanks

BTW, I have also logged a couple of mid-5 sec 0-60s on a G-tech with my mods.

[magindat]

The owner lives in East Central FL. Hot enough for ya? I saw it tuned on a roughly 85 degree day and then backed off for safety. It looks safe to me. I was leaning hard in that direction, but ultimately opted for more power.