Tapping the Oil Pan for Vortech S/C

[Marauder131]

In order to avoid metal going into the pan, would it be correct to assume that everyone is simply pulling the pan right off to tap it, then replacing the gasket and placing the pan back on?

[Zack]

There is a special tool offered by Vortech to aid in this.

Most people use a series of punches from small the large to get the hole in the pan, then take a grease coated 3/8-18 NPT tap and slowly tap the pan.
The metal that was expanded outward is what the threads are formed on.
The grease on the tap will catch all shavings.

Use some sealer or JB weld on the return fitting.

[KillJoy]

There is a special tool offered by Vortech to aid in this.

Most people use a series of punches from small the large to get the hole in the pan, then take a grease coated 3/8-18 NPT tap and slowly tap the pan.
The metal that was expanded outward is what the threads are formed on.
The grease on the tap will catch all shavings.

Use some sealer or JB weld on the return fitting.

^^^This^^^ is how the guy at the local speed shop did mine. I think this is the way Vortech recommends.


KillJoy

[Pat]

I read in a Turbo Mag that the return line fitting on the oil pan should be above the oil level in the pan so that the oil being circulated in the S/C can drain into the pan.

If the fitting is below the oil level in the pan then the oil cannot drain and may back up. This may explode the hood off the car. Is this correct.

Pat

[KillJoy]

I read in a Turbo Mag that the return line fitting on the oil pan should be above the oil level in the pan so that the oil being circulated in the S/C can drain into the pan.

If the fitting is below the oil level in the pan then the oil cannot drain and may back up. This may explode the hood off the car. Is this correct.

Pat


No clue. My guy just followed the Vortech instructions.

:dunno:

KillJoy

[fastblackmerc]

I read in a Turbo Mag that the return line fitting on the oil pan should be above the oil level in the pan so that the oil being circulated in the S/C can drain into the pan.

If the fitting is below the oil level in the pan then the oil cannot drain and may back up. This may explode the hood off the car. Is this correct.

Pat

The oil to the hairdryer is under pressure so I don't think it matters.

[Anthony]

Vortech supplies a paper template that you tape on the pan.

[Zack]

The oil to the hairdryer is under pressure so I don't think it matters.

Its under pressure until it exits the oil fitting in the blower. Its pointed directly at the gears and then just accumulates and drains back into the pan.

The fitting DOES need to be above the oil level in the pan.

[magindat]

Its under pressure until it exits the oil fitting in the blower. Its pointed directly at the gears and then just accumulates and drains back into the pan.

The fitting DOES need to be above the oil level in the pan.

Just out of total curiosity, how much more oil must one use to fill the lines and the amount that 'accumulates'?

[Zack]

1/2 quart more, but Im gonna start a new thread on that shortly...

[FordNut]

This may explode the hood off the car. Is this correct.

Pat

NO..........

[Marauderjack]

Its under pressure until it exits the oil fitting in the blower. Its pointed directly at the gears and then just accumulates and drains back into the pan.

The fitting DOES need to be above the oil level in the pan.

If oil is under pressure going into the blower why would it simply drain out of the blower with no pressure??:shake: Is the outlet to the pan much larger than the inlet so oil won't accumulate in the blower housing??:confused:

[Zack]

If oil is under pressure going into the blower why would it simply drain out of the blower with no pressure??:shake: Is the outlet to the pan much larger than the inlet so oil won't accumulate in the blower housing??:confused:

The inside of a Vortech, like any other blower is an open area.
The oil is squirted at the gears, then just drains back into the pan.

And yes, small oil feed line, big drain line.

[RF Overlord]

The turbos on the emergency generators at many of the sites I'm responsible for are the same way; high-pressure braided line to the turbo shaft bearings and a much larger diameter rigid steel drain pipe back to the oil sump.