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MarauderVOL
10-03-2007, 01:58 PM
I'm considering getting the JLT CAI/RAI for an 03 Marauder. For the mechanically disinclined does the kit come with better instructions than the one shown on the JLT website? I also notice there seems to be an issue with the kit rubbing the hood liner according to some that have it. Is this still an issue? Guess it's just a matter of preference but which is better the JLT, K&N, or the PHP?:)

SC Cheesehead
10-03-2007, 02:09 PM
I'm considering getting the JLT CAI/RAI for an 03 Marauder. For the mechanically disinclined does the kit come with better instructions than the one shown on the JLT website? I also notice there seems to be an issue with the kit rubbing the hood liner according to some that have it. Is this still an issue? Guess it's just a matter of preference but which is better the JLT, K&N, or the PHP?:)

Personal preference, but I've got a PHP and love mine.

SCCH

Pops
10-03-2007, 02:10 PM
PHP is the way to go.

fastblackmerc
10-03-2007, 02:11 PM
I like my JLT.

fastblackmerc
10-03-2007, 02:34 PM
My JLT installation


http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/Valve%20Covers/Leftside.jpg

VAmarauder03
10-03-2007, 02:35 PM
gotta vote for the jlt i love mine

Tucker
10-03-2007, 02:39 PM
Thanks for the interest.
The kit is pretty simple to install at most any skill level. If you have any questions on the instructions, feel free to call, post, pm or email them and we will be glad to help.

The rubbing of the hood liner is very minor, but we like to be up front and tell you it may happen. proper adjustment of the pipe can minimize or even eliminate it.

As for the other kits out there.
Members here have tested the K&N to be worth about 5 RWHP and ourself and others have tested the JLT to be worth 10-15 RWHP for only $169.
I do not know the real dyno results of the PHP, but you are only getting a new airbox and still using your stock upper tube. With the JLT we replace the entire intake system (minus your MAF) along with a 9" S&B powerstack filter (same as PHP) and we use a plastic heat shield that will not absorb the heat a stainless steel heat shield will, like the PHP has.

All in all if you have any questions please feel free to call.
Keep in mind in your quest for help, true before and after dyno results are what you want to see, not just "I have xxx and like it" :)
We test all our intakes and post the results.

Let me know if I can help,

Jay

Bradley G
10-03-2007, 03:03 PM
I did before & after dyno testing on Jays' kit.
For my efforts Jay gave me the kit.
I got a legit 10 RWHP all across the power band.
Makes the car much louder.
I did get a little chaffing on the headliner, I believe this was due to the intake spacer that I was also using.
Excellent customer service!

Raudermaster
10-03-2007, 05:49 PM
JLT FTW! Can't beat the price, especially with the sound and performance it gives you.

rayjay
10-03-2007, 06:12 PM
I have a PHP/JLT hybrid induction. No problems.

DWSTANG67
10-03-2007, 06:21 PM
I like my JLT intake it has good performance looks and its true a nice sound. like Jay said its a easy install. Dosent take to long and you will be able to understand his directions. I went with PHP intake spacer along with the JLT intake. Installed them togther in less than 2 hours and that was taking my time

Raudermaster
10-03-2007, 08:13 PM
Seriously, it took me 5 minutes to put on.

freakstatus
10-03-2007, 11:17 PM
Chalk one up for the K&N, model #63-1111. Detailed instructions step by step with pictures and has a sweet intake sound when you hit the gas, no rubbing of the hood liner and comes with a huge sweet looking washable filter.

J-MAN
10-04-2007, 03:33 AM
JLT for me. Easy install even for the mechanically challenged. Great price.

Tucker
10-04-2007, 04:32 AM
Thanks guys.

Jay

magindat
10-04-2007, 04:48 AM
One of the main selling points is the filer. K&N is a 6" tall cone while the JLT is a 9" tall cone.

Side by side, the JLT has a quicker 'throttle blip' than the K&N.

On top of all that, support a site vendor who has taken the time and spent the effort to maximize a kit specifically and with love for the Marauder, not a corporate giant who make a 'that's good enough' kit for the masses.

ctrlraven
10-04-2007, 06:16 AM
I like my JLT so much on the MM, I'll be buying one for my 89 5.0 after I get it inspected sometime this moth.

burt ragio
10-04-2007, 08:47 AM
What is the replacement cost of the JLT filter ?
What is the minimun filtration partical size of filter ?
What can be used for winter sand and road grime is threre an enclosed filter or box used in addition? Do you need a retune after an install of JLT ?

ctrlraven
10-04-2007, 09:16 AM
No need to replace it, it is a washible filter. I just use the K&N filter cleaning kit and go very lightly on the oil. I also clean my MAFS every 10k miles (6 months).

MADRODER
10-04-2007, 10:02 AM
With the JLT you will get DIRECT customer service with Jay, as I did. JLT is the deal:D

Dragcity
10-04-2007, 10:44 AM
What is the replacement cost of the JLT filter ?
What is the minimun filtration partical size of filter ?
What can be used for winter sand and road grime is threre an enclosed filter or box used in addition? Do you need a retune after an install of JLT ?

Lifetime - cleanable - reusable filter

Particulate filtration is less effective than OEM paper filter media.

They make a sock of sorts to cover the cone filter (extra) or switch back to the OEM airbox for said months.

Seems to have added performance in the 4500 - 6000 RPM range.

The sound everyone is refering to is akin to turning over (removing) the air filter cover on an old carbureted engine. Just more eveident with our large exhaust tips and DOHC engines.

This has been my observation thus far....

Tucker
10-04-2007, 11:20 AM
What is the replacement cost of the JLT filter ?
What is the minimun filtration partical size of filter ?
What can be used for winter sand and road grime is threre an enclosed filter or box used in addition? Do you need a retune after an install of JLT ?

Ok, now let me answer your questions

1) The filters are lifetime reusable/reoilable. Data beats out saying so, so here is a test of S&B, AEM, AFE and OEM filters. http://www.salesforce.com/link-redirect.jsp?oid=00D500000007G QX&retURL=%2Fservlet%2Fservlet.Em ailAttachmentDownload%3Fq%3D00 m50000000C0Fm00D500000007GQX00 550000000wL4N&us=1
Tests show an air flow improvement of over 55% over OEM and only .07 less efficiant in filtering then OEM. That's awesome!
2) We do not use a fully inclosed filter box for a few reasons. Enclosed boxes can trap in heat and not allow coold air to get to the filter when driving. When you are driving you have cool air coming in from under the car, around the headlights, hood and so on. Temps drop fast and you want to get that cooler air to the filter. Having a enclosed box will not allow that. Also, you should not be getting winter sand, road grime, snow, rain or anything this high in your engine compartment. The engine compartment is sealed enough to keep this stuff out, but allow tons of air flow. What we do have is a plastic shield that surrounds 1/2-3/4 of the filter and is used to block the radiant heat when at idle and low speed, but be open to get as much cool are it can when driving.
3) NO TUNING NEEDED!
Our system is designed as so tuning is not needed. The only time you would need a tune is if you have a custom tune on your car now and change the air flow in or out of the engine. This is from a differant flowing intake, Headers, removing the cats and so on. This is the case for Mr.Dragcity.;) He had a custom tune for the stock airbox and swapped it out for the JLT. Now he greatly changed the airflow to the engine and did not tell the computer he did so. The MAF will make some changes in this case, but the computer has been overwriten to do things different with the previous custom tune.
I would not be selling a product that needs a tune a tell people NOT to tune. That would be very dangerous and put JLT out of business in a hurry. Cars that need a tune for a intake change are 04-up Ford trucks and 05-up Mustangs, not cars like the Marauder with an actual Mass Air Flow unit. The MAF will make the changes needed to the A/F.

4) Outerwears is a company that makes custom filter socks that can help keep dirt and water out of the filter. If water is a concern then you may give them a call, but my thinking is this: The sock is basicly a filter filter. If the sock gets dirty, you need to clean it. Why not just clean the filter and only have 1 thing that needs cleaning? :D

Anyway, I hope this helps with your questions. :beer:
Jay

Raudermaster
10-04-2007, 11:58 AM
Chalk one up for the K&N, model #63-1111. Detailed instructions step by step with pictures and has a sweet intake sound when you hit the gas, no rubbing of the hood liner and comes with a huge sweet looking washable filter.

Way to support a site vendor. :shake:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/421137/fullsize/intake-002.jpg

JLT reppin'.

magindat
10-04-2007, 12:06 PM
Way to support a site vendor. :shake:

And the student becomes the master. ;) Nice work, Grasshopper!!! :D

Tucker
10-04-2007, 01:08 PM
Way to support a site vendor. :shake:
JLT reppin'.

Thanks, but it's cool. Were not the best or the only company out there and having compitition like K&N who makes 5 RWHP for over $200 and PHP costing $310 is good for us.
Choices are good for you and me.

Thanks for the support!

Jay

MarauderVOL
10-04-2007, 02:48 PM
Ok thanks for everyone's input looks like i'll be ordering the JLT.

freakstatus
10-04-2007, 05:55 PM
One of the main selling points is the filer. K&N is a 6" tall cone while the JLT is a 9" tall cone.

Side by side, the JLT has a quicker 'throttle blip' than the K&N.

On top of all that, support a site vendor who has taken the time and spent the effort to maximize a kit specifically and with love for the Marauder, not a corporate giant who make a 'that's good enough' kit for the masses.


Well, there you go....can't argue with that!

burt ragio
10-06-2007, 08:26 AM
Tucker thanks for the complete low down on the JLT intake system. You offer a primium product for the money. Best TQ & hp rating data supported.

freakstatus
10-06-2007, 08:41 AM
Way to support a site vendor. :shake:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/421137/fullsize/intake-002.jpg

JLT reppin'.


Sorry Raudermaster, but I can only speak to what I have in my car and he did ask about the K&N in the original post....sorry everyone! Here in Canada, we have to pay a bunch of extra fees to get things across the border when we mail order such as taxes and customs fees etc. The K&N is readily available at most shops.....

Tucker
10-08-2007, 05:12 AM
Sorry Raudermaster, but I can only speak to what I have in my car and he did ask about the K&N in the original post....sorry everyone! Here in Canada, we have to pay a bunch of extra fees to get things across the border when we mail order such as taxes and customs fees etc. The K&N is readily available at most shops.....
Your right, he was asking about K&N, but the question was "does anyone know which is better to buy".
In your case K&N was better to buy simply because you live in Canada and it was at your local store, not that it was truley better then the others.
Considering the higher price of the K&N Vs. the custom fees of ordering a JLT from the U.S. you still would have saved money and got twice the HP gains.

BTW, we do have stocking JLT dealers in Canada. The Mustang Shop, DeSilva Racing and Steeda.ca just to mention a few. You could have got a JLT on your side of the border no problem.

Thanks
Jay

Raudermaster
10-08-2007, 03:17 PM
Thanks Rich lol. I did not mean to sound demeaning and try to throw off a hateful tone towards you. I know it's tougher for you guys up across the border. One of you guys should create a secret underground tunnel to get things across the border for no fees!

Taemian
10-10-2007, 06:00 AM
Thanks Rich lol. I did not mean to sound demeaning and try to throw off a hateful tone towards you. I know it's tougher for you guys up across the border. One of you guys should create a secret underground tunnel to get things across the border for no fees!
The last 3 guys that tried that got busted the first day they tried to use it!

www.cnn.com/2005/US/07/21/border.tunnel/index.html (http://www.cnn.com/2005/US/07/21/border.tunnel/index.html)

Yeah, you folks need to realize that things are alot different for us up here. This is the first time in 31 years that the dollar is actually worth MORE than yours, it's been between 67-82 cents for about the last 10 years, so things were always expensive. Try adding 3o% to everything you buy! (But last night our dollar was worth a penny more than yours. )

That said, many vendors don't even ship here for various reasons. I "supported board reps" by ordering my Xcal2 from Lidio, and SO DID FREAKSTATUS, we both ordered just in the last month. Lidio doesn't ship to Canada anymore, so we both had to have the items shipped to friends living in the USA, then shipped to us from them. I think that's a pretty good effort to support board advertisers. Never seen you guys go through all that effort.:mad2:

As far as I'm concerned, I'm going to take Kenne Bell's advice and going with the K&N, as I plan to go Trilogy. His online rant that lays out stuff about CAIs is well written (it's been posted on this board). I say the K&N because it is the most "sealed" box out of all of them. Also, there are more than a few other MM owners who have the K&N, and seem pretty happy. I know of nobody here that has more racing experience than K.B., so I'm going with his advice (even though I'm modding it to my needs)

Lastly, the wise crack about K&N barely bothering to make one for the masses (or whatever) is poorly thought out. Last time I checked, it was a hell of a lot easier to throw a three-sided piece of plastic around an airfilter, rather than form-fit a whole box that is sealed when the hood comes down on top of it. Ask any of the guys on this board who fabbed their own TRUE CAI box, there are some great ones posted here. The piece of bent plastic around the air filter in the other kits are MUCH MORE generic than the K&N Marauder kit. That kind of setup is used in most "mass produced" kits, very very generic. The fact that K&N actually custom made a box for such a low production number car is a compliment to our whole community.

This is not to disparage the other kits, just an honest observation on the physical work involved with fabrication.

Yes, I'm wearing my flame suit. I think the other kits best suit N/A cars, but those going S/C will benefit from a lower intake charge temp much more than the extra airflow. Again, K.B.'s advice about underhood temps comes from first hand experience, which is more than I have.

Tucker
10-10-2007, 06:38 AM
All that would make sence if KB had actuall tested a JLT :) KB also preaches to use a true cold air intake on the Cobra, but only offers a under hood air kit for the Shelby that is unshielded...:eek: Kind of contradicting isn't it?

If you could see the size comparision of the K&N Vs the JLT it would also make more sence to use the larger kit on a supercharged engine as it will breath much easier.
The object in any supercharged engine is to open the breathing path and get the coolest air possiable.
If a sealed box is what works best, then we should leave it stock.
What a sealed box does is block the cool air flowing in the engine compartment when driving. Having a more open shield will allow the filter to use that air, but block "some" of the high heat at idle. We need the power when driving, not at idle :)
If the K&N makes 5 RWHP on a stock MM and the JLT makes 10-15, the power gains on a supercharged engine will be even better for both kits making the gain differance even larger.
Cobras have been running open filters well into the 800 RWHP range and 9 sec 1/4 times.
A easy breathing engine is a happy engine.

BTW, we ship to CA daily, no need to ship it here, then there. We take the time to actually go to the post office to get CA customers the cheapest shipping we can. It's a PITA, but we do it. Just like shipping to APO's. It's worth it to us to go the extra mile. :beer:
Price is also a factor. We sell a very cheap, good looking and great working air intake for the Marauder. We can also have parts Rotomolded like K&N, but that makes cost go up fast.
As I said before, choices are great and we all have a reason we choose what we spend our money on.
Thanks for all the good info.

Jay

Raudermaster
10-10-2007, 01:38 PM
Man Jay what's up with people ranking on the JLT when they've never even driven an MM with one equipped and speaking highly of K&N? Why, because K&N has been around longer and you feel they know more? Hell, just talk to Charlie (Defyant) he has a JLT on his TRILOGY, ask him what he thinks. Last I checked he's doing just fine running 11.9 in the 1/4. Take a stroll over to SVTP, where a lot of the guys prefer JLT (and other SVT designated vendors) over the K&N. In fact, the K&N over there is the minority.

Raudermaster
10-10-2007, 01:43 PM
Also Jay call my Dad and convince him to buy a Magnacharger for his '04! It's just dying for some boost. lol

Taemian
10-10-2007, 08:20 PM
All that would make sence if KB had actuall tested a JLT :) KB also preaches to use a true cold air intake on the Cobra, but only offers a under hood air kit for the Shelby that is unshielded...:eek: Kind of contradicting isn't it?

If you could see the size comparision of the K&N Vs the JLT it would also make more sence to use the larger kit on a supercharged engine as it will breath much easier.
The object in any supercharged engine is to open the breathing path and get the coolest air possiable.
If a sealed box is what works best, then we should leave it stock.
What a sealed box does is block the cool air flowing in the engine compartment when driving. Having a more open shield will allow the filter to use that air, but block "some" of the high heat at idle. We need the power when driving, not at idle :)
If the K&N makes 5 RWHP on a stock MM and the JLT makes 10-15, the power gains on a supercharged engine will be even better for both kits making the gain differance even larger.
Cobras have been running open filters well into the 800 RWHP range and 9 sec 1/4 times.
A easy breathing engine is a happy engine.

BTW, we ship to CA daily, no need to ship it here, then there. We take the time to actually go to the post office to get CA customers the cheapest shipping we can. It's a PITA, but we do it. Just like shipping to APO's. It's worth it to us to go the extra mile. :beer:
Price is also a factor. We sell a very cheap, good looking and great working air intake for the Marauder. We can also have parts Rotomolded like K&N, but that makes cost go up fast.
As I said before, choices are great and we all have a reason we choose what we spend our money on.
Thanks for all the good info.

Jay

Heya Jay, thanks for the great counterpoints! I'm totally with out on the sheer size of the filter being very important, but I still see the air charge temperature for s/c being very important also. Your point about getting more air through to the engine is right on the money. 98-2002 CVPIs had a tiny air tube (horn) from behind the headlight into the airbox. One of ther first upgrade for those older cars was to upgrade to the MM airbox and MAF, where the airbox horn is much bigger and can flow more air. That's a change they made stock from 2003+, and a very good one. I'm still looking at ways to enlarge this horn, or duct a new one.

I do wonder about the air coming through being "cool" as you say when you're rolling along, though. After it passes through the a/c condenser, any trans cooler, and the rad itself, it's pretty stinking hot! I do understand that the small shield will deflect any direct hot air, but the actual underhood temp must be pretty even, except maybe right by the headers.

Quarter mile times and dyno results aren't what happens in the real world...I should state that this is where I'm coming from. I base my performance gains under real world conditions. If I say my car does the quarter in xx.xx, it means all the the time. (weather conditions permitting)

I truely don't get the method of going to a track, putting on slicks and skinnies, removing the spare and trunk stuff, dropping the tire pressure, removing the front swaybar, icing down the intake, etc etc. and saying "My car does XX.XX in the quarter." That's like me saying I can lift 300 pounds. Well, I can if I train for 8 months, use steroids, and radically change the way I workout. If you find yourself on the highway, or at a stopilight, I want to know what the car will do. The engine bay will probably be heatsoaked, so I take that into consideration. Drag racing is fine as a sport, but all the variables and cheats you add at the track don't apply on the street....and that is where I'm interested in finding peak performance levels. Time after time I see dyno runs and quarter mile times with extended cool-off times (half an hour) with open hoods and such. I call BS on this. Drive it like you stole it, and test it. With that in mind, I'm continually looking not to ADD hp, but to use what you already have more efficiently.

I'd love to do an underhood temp test, if you have any ideas on how to proceed, feel free to let me know. I'm experimenting on some old dented hoods from CVPIs, with heat extractor ducts. No intake ducts, strictly extractors to lower the engine bay air pressures and temps. I found myself doing about 120 mph yesterday with an Audi S6 leading the way. Afterwards, the heat coming out from under the car made me think I had side-pipes! Gave him quite a shock by not dropping back too much during acceleration bursts, but he was the air-splitter so drafting him reeeally helped me keep up.

I appreciate your efforts to provide CDNs with your product, I wish it was as easy for other companies to follow your example. That being said, I'm still in the K&N corner. I'd be VERY VERY interested in seeing what better or enlarged ducting for the K&N "sealed" box would compare with the semi-shielded underhood JLT setup. I'm all for experimenting as my time allows. I work 12-14 hour shifts, so you can imagine between that and having a family life keeps MM time to a minimum.

Lastly, if you can send me a link to the JLT dyno charts so I can compare them tho the K&N, that'd be great. Thanks for the good and healthy discussion!:)

Raudermaster
10-10-2007, 08:57 PM
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11 643&d=1191447883

Taemian
10-10-2007, 09:49 PM
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11 643&d=1191447883
Take a look at:

http://www.kandn.com/dynocharts/57-2563.pdf

Both of these dyno charts look comparable to me. I see them both showing about 10 hp average gain at any given time, ignoring each brand's peak or valley point. Am I missing something or reading them wrong? What's this about "K&N is only worth 5 hp" I saw in previous posts? :confused:

I have to assume that both dyno charts are honest, or I have no basis for comparison at all.

Tucker
10-11-2007, 05:24 AM
Take a look at:

http://www.kandn.com/dynocharts/57-2563.pdf

Both of these dyno charts look comparable to me. I see them both showing about 10 hp average gain at any given time, ignoring each brand's peak or valley point. Am I missing something or reading them wrong? What's this about "K&N is only worth 5 hp" I saw in previous posts? :confused:

I have to assume that both dyno charts are honest, or I have no basis for comparison at all.
K&N never has a dyno chart that is real world representitive, that's why 3rd world testing is best. They also claim 53 RWHP without a tune on the GT500 and NOBODY has been able to see that let alone have a safe A/F.

Do a search back about 2-3 years, a member here tested the K&N and gained 5 RWHP. I then offered a kit to anyone willing to do their own test of the JLT. BradlyG did the test and found the same type of gains we did.
So there you go. Never go by what a manufacture says (including JLT) always look and ask for 3rd party test results. We always try to teach people this. As much as I can say we tested this and tested that, the best results are done by a outside source.

As for not believing under hood temps are low at speed. This is simple to test if you have a SCT or Diablosport tuner. Anybody can datalog IAT temps and watch them in real time.
We have tested this on several vehicles with the same results. At idle you will see 20-30 degrees above ambiant air temps and then watch them drop once you get moving.
We have seen 12-20 degrees above at 30mph in traffic and 0-10 degrees at 60-70mph.
When you were doing 120 yesterday I'd be willing to bet your IAT's were very near to ambiant air temps. It was hot when you stopped beacuse there was no air flow through the car. See what I'm saying? Yes, at idle and very low speed you will see higher under hood temps... no air flow.
The cool air is coming from the under carraige, not through the rad and A/C cond.
Look down through your engine compartment and you will see the ground, just like a truck. When at speed air is coming in from everywhere.

You don't have to believe my word as it's very easy to test.

Increased air flow on a boosted car can increase boost by 1-2 PSI. You can expect about 10-20 RWHP per pound of boost.
Keep in mind before you continue to argue, were from the 03, 04 Cobra, Lightning and Shelby community. We know Supercharged cars.

Cobra guys like to try and prove people wrong and dyno/track test parts all the time. We have been proven right there time and time again.:)

Test, try, see and then give the results. :beer:

Jay

Paul T. Casey
10-11-2007, 05:38 AM
What can be used for winter sand and road grime is threre an enclosed filter or box used in addition? Do you need a retune after an install of JLT ?

Had mine on for a few years, sees everyday all weather use. The heat sheild effectively keeps sand, grime, water, etc off the filter.
No re tune needed, but as with every mod, a re-tune only makes things better.

Taemian
10-11-2007, 06:06 AM
K&N never has a dyno chart that is real world representitive, that's why 3rd world testing is best. They also claim 53 RWHP without a tune on the GT500 and NOBODY has been able to see that let alone have a safe A/F.

Do a search back about 2-3 years, a member here tested the K&N and gained 5 RWHP. I then offered a kit to anyone willing to do their own test of the JLT. BradlyG did the test and found the same type of gains we did.
So there you go. Never go by what a manufacture says (including JLT) always look and ask for 3rd party test results. We always try to teach people this. As much as I can say we tested this and tested that, the best results are done by a outside source.

As for not believing under hood temps are low at speed. This is simple to test if you have a SCT or Diablosport tuner. Anybody can datalog IAT temps and watch them in real time.
We have tested this on several vehicles with the same results. At idle you will see 20-30 degrees above ambiant air temps and then watch them drop once you get moving.
We have seen 12-20 degrees above at 30mph in traffic and 0-10 degrees at 60-70mph.
When you were doing 120 yesterday I'd be willing to bet your IAT's were very near to ambiant air temps. It was hot when you stopped beacuse there was no air flow through the car. See what I'm saying? Yes, at idle and very low speed you will see higher under hood temps... no air flow.
The cool air is coming from the under carraige, not through the rad and A/C cond.
Look down through your engine compartment and you will see the ground, just like a truck. When at speed air is coming in from everywhere.

You don't have to believe my word as it's very easy to test.

Increased air flow on a boosted car can increase boost by 1-2 PSI. You can expect about 10-20 RWHP per pound of boost.
Keep in mind before you continue to argue, were from the 03, 04 Cobra, Lightning and Shelby community. We know Supercharged cars.

Cobra guys like to try and prove people wrong and dyno/track test parts all the time. We have been proven right there time and time again.:)

Test, try, see and then give the results. :beer:

Jay

Well, I definitely understand the benefits of third party testing, I thought the dyno chart you provided was also manufacturer-supplied, as it wasn't specified.

I ordered an Xcal2 from Lidio, but had to have it sent to Oregon first so I won't see it for a month or so. I'm guessing the IAT (intake ambiant air??)is the underhood temp sensor, but wouldn't it also be much like having a temp sensor in the tranny pan? (which of course is a marginally useful location for true temps when all is said and done) I would have thought that temps could range quite a bit, but you have more experience than I do with testing. The location is something I'll look up when I get my new shop manuals, perhaps it's right by the air filter

I'm enjoying your rebuttals, and am definitely learning a few points, but one thing I'm VERY confused about is your statement about air movement. Since air by the physical laws has to move from higher to lower pressure, I simply can't believe that the pressure of air moving under the car creates such a vacuum as to overcome the pressure of the air being rammed in through the rad/grille area. If that were so, all cars would have negative downforce, and we wouldn't need hood latches!:D I know race cars have ducted underbodies, rear spolier mounted rads etc and negative ground force can be achieved with some effort, but our car has the frontal grille section of a Winnabago. If you mounted a block-off plate directly behind the rad, venting all the air straight downwards to the ground, I wonder what would happen to pressures AND temps? Thoughts/ideas?

Thanks for taking the time to reply to these emails!

duhtroll
10-11-2007, 06:08 AM
I retuned mine after the CAI, but I would have anyway as I was doing other stuff at the time also.

Another +1 for JLT.

Tucker
10-11-2007, 06:48 AM
IAT's are read at the MAF. A true temp reading of air temp going into the engine.

I'm not here to try and prove to you how air flows under your hood. If you want to believe it's a oven under there, that's "cool" with me. :)

Next month when you get your tuner let us know what you find.

Thanks
Jay

Evasfunk
10-22-2007, 12:58 AM
I spent countless hours looking over threads on a couple different forums debating between the JLT and K&N and every thing I read had the JLT coming out on top. Jay was awesome, I'm from Ontario, Canada ordered it at 2 in the morning after a couple emails its was promptly shipped the following day,I believe the day was Oct. 6th. Still haven't received it due to custom back but I'm anxiously waiting and I'm sure I'm going to love it. Only problem is I don't have the Xcal2 purchased the SCT Strategy Flash off a friend for very cheap so I'm not to sure on how the re tune will go....anyone have any ideas?

Tucker
10-22-2007, 05:05 AM
I spent countless hours looking over threads on a couple different forums debating between the JLT and K&N and every thing I read had the JLT coming out on top. Jay was awesome, I'm from Ontario, Canada ordered it at 2 in the morning after a couple emails its was promptly shipped the following day,I believe the day was Oct. 6th. Still haven't received it due to custom back but I'm anxiously waiting and I'm sure I'm going to love it. Only problem is I don't have the Xcal2 purchased the SCT Strategy Flash off a friend for very cheap so I'm not to sure on how the re tune will go....anyone have any ideas?
The SCT SF is a X-2. It's pre loaded from SCT with tunes for many cars including your Marauder. You will have full adjustability for things like timing, fuel, gears, tires size and on and on.

Thanks for choosing us and let me know if you need anything.

Jay

MarauderVOL
10-22-2007, 06:21 AM
I''m going with the JLT looks like a Christmas present for me. Before I purchase for those of you that have it have there been any issues related to it throwing codes that may interfere with it passing emission testing?

MADRODER
10-22-2007, 06:41 AM
I spent countless hours looking over threads on a couple different forums debating between the JLT and K&N and every thing I read had the JLT coming out on top. Jay was awesome, I'm from Ontario, Canada ordered it at 2 in the morning after a couple emails its was promptly shipped the following day,I believe the day was Oct. 6th. Still haven't received it due to custom back but I'm anxiously waiting and I'm sure I'm going to love it. Only problem is I don't have the Xcal2 purchased the SCT Strategy Flash off a friend for very cheap so I'm not to sure on how the re tune will go....anyone have any ideas?

First of all you are going to love your JLT CAI, since you don't have the X2 yet you'll notice that your car will need some time to calibrate itself to the increased amount of air that's being drawn in, I removed the battery terminal for 30 mins, after re-attaching the battery I drove the car for at least 30 mins in the city and the highway (pushing it quite often) It took my car around 2 wks or so to start performing as it should, do yourself a favour and book 2 hrs with Lidio as I'm doing shortly, he'll make sure that your car is running at it's full potential.

Not sure where you live in Ontario but if your only several hrs or less from Lidio's this is a great opportunity to hear that CAI in action....:D

Taemian
10-22-2007, 09:13 PM
IAT's are read at the MAF. A true temp reading of air temp going into the engine.

I'm not here to try and prove to you how air flows under your hood. If you want to believe it's a oven under there, that's "cool" with me. :)

Next month when you get your tuner let us know what you find.

Thanks
Jay

Heya,

Sorry if I dropped off the planet, I'm crew on a movie out here (Watchmen) and the hours are nuts. I'm heading to Oregon to pick up my SCT from Nov 09 til the following week. Watching this thread with great interest as time permits!:)

MarauderVOL
10-31-2007, 01:19 PM
Hey Guys one last question before I purchase this intake. Jay told me the JLT doesn't have a carb# (K&N does). Have any of you had any emission related problems after installation? My state requires emission testing every year.

freakstatus
10-31-2007, 01:32 PM
Hey Guys one last question before I purchase this intake. Jay told me the JLT doesn't have a carb# (K&N does). Have any of you had any emission related problems after installation? My state requires emission testing every year.

No problems here.

dohc324ci
11-30-2007, 04:53 PM
Ok you convinced me; I was contemplating K&N because that is what is on all by vehicles. Not only does JLT perform better is a great deal$$$

Thanks

fastblackmerc
11-30-2007, 08:39 PM
Hey Guys one last question before I purchase this intake. Jay told me the JLT doesn't have a carb# (K&N does). Have any of you had any emission related problems after installation? My state requires emission testing every year.

No problems passing emissions tests here in N.C. They used to test by the probe in the tail pipe now they just check the computer to see if there are any codes or when the last code(s) was cleared.

bob6364
12-01-2007, 12:30 AM
I went with the k&n and sct. The car now has 262 rwhp now I wonder if the jlt would have given me more? Between the CAI and the tuner your looking at a 700 dollar bill.Stings alittle at first but speed costs.

Tucker
12-03-2007, 06:31 AM
JLT and SCT = $539
:)

Jay

offroadkarter
12-04-2007, 04:29 PM
JLT and SCT = $539
:)

Jay

what tune do you sell, lidio tune?

Tucker
12-05-2007, 06:18 AM
Lidio?
No, it's loaded with tunes from SCT direct.
I have seen single didgit HP differences between custom and pre loaded tunes on N/A cars.

TrainedMonkey
12-19-2007, 07:01 PM
I just bought mine last week, it will get in tomarrow. jay was very helpfull at answering all my questions.


oh one thing though, do i have to disconect the battery for 30mins and wot it for a week to notice anything?

Local Boy
12-19-2007, 07:42 PM
Step on it after install...you'll notice a loud sucking sound. That's your JLT working to draw air in...BEAUTIFUL...

By dis-connecting your Batt...Your LCM will reset and re-calebrate for the increased air flow...Drive it hard for about a week...and your LCM learns your driving style...and the car will respond better...

Yeah... Jay is a great guy, with a great product...

ALOHA

Tucker
12-20-2007, 06:02 AM
Truely there is no need to do anything. Your computer will make the needed changes right away.
When we do testing we swap out the intakes and go. A/F is adjusted by the computer right away, not days or weeks later.

Jay