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burt ragio
10-22-2007, 12:10 PM
Who has had the OEM drive shaft rebalanced ?
What were your results after haveing the drive shaft rebalanced ?

fastblackmerc
10-22-2007, 12:40 PM
I'm in the process of getting mine done now. Will let you know.

jdando
10-22-2007, 12:44 PM
I had mine balanced a year ago. They replace the u-joints at the same time.

Results? Hard to say, at high speeds (120+) the car seems quieter.

jeremy

ctrlraven
10-22-2007, 12:46 PM
I never knew you could have the OEM driveshaft rebalanced. Is that something a Ford dealer does or a speed shop?

fastblackmerc
10-22-2007, 12:53 PM
I never knew you could have the OEM driveshaft rebalanced. Is that something a Ford dealer does or a speed shop?

Try a repair place that works on big trucks. If they don't do it they farm out the work. Get the name of the shop that does it for them. My son had a new steel driveshaft, frt & rear yokes and HD u-joints made for his Camaro. Cost less than $350.00.

Dragcity
10-22-2007, 01:12 PM
Have a nice day

Joe Walsh
10-22-2007, 02:02 PM
I never knew you could have the OEM driveshaft rebalanced. Is that something a Ford dealer does or a speed shop?

Chris, I had a Blazer S10 driveshaft re-balanced and checked for straightness at a place in Baltimore. I can look up their name if you want...

Joe

ctrlraven
10-22-2007, 02:07 PM
Chris, I had a Blazer S10 driveshaft re-balanced and checked for straightness at a place in Baltimore. I can look up their name if you want...

Joe

Is it wise to have the OEM driveshaft balance or buy a new light aluminum driveshaft and do those still have to be balanced?

Yeah I'll take the name of the place Joe.

burt ragio
10-22-2007, 06:57 PM
I got a quote for less than 100. Will check for streight and rebalance drop off in an pick up same evening. Place in Sandwich Ma. Cape Cod Spring & Axle.

sailsmen
10-22-2007, 08:41 PM
Why are you having it rebalanced? Because it is out of balance?

Do a search, there is a lot of info on this.

burt ragio
10-23-2007, 06:02 PM
I may have it rebalanced because around 45-60mph I get a harmonic vibration it's very annoying ;above 60mph it goes away. I know it's not the wheels nor the tires. I have had them balanced twice the second time with a roadforce machine. I'am almost 95% sure it's the driveshaft. I feel this will do the trick.

Dennis Reinhart
10-23-2007, 07:27 PM
Who has had the OEM drive shaft rebalanced ?
What were your results after haveing the drive shaft rebalanced ?

To me it makes no sence to ballance the OEM shaft that has a critical dive line speed at 128 MPH with stock 355 gears, if you have 410 its even lower, the stock OEM shaft is the reason why the Marauder is speed limited to 128 MPH. Here is a good article on critical drive speed.

Drive line Critical speed
<HR style="COLOR: #d1d1e1" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->What it is –
Every rotating object has a “critical” speed or resonant speed, which is a function of its design, mass and stiffness. This is when the driveshaft is whipping in the middle, rather than spinning on a true centerline. For a driveshaft, this is also called “first bending mode”, indicating the shaft actually bows out into a boomerang shape (on a micro-scale). This first mode bending speed is usually referred to in a driveshaft frequency.

What it does –
The energy stored and released through the deflection of the driveshaft through the resonance creates lateral and vertical accelerations of >10g at the problem frequency, which results in broken transmission extension housings, cases and causes moderate to severe vibration at highway speeds (> 70 mph), particularly with axle ratios numerically higher than 3.27:1. This energy release, when compounded by excessive driveshaft imbalance (some is good, too much or too little is not), companion flange run out/imbalance and excessive driveline angles provides the driver with excessive vibration and boom and tortures the driver and driveline components in general.

Because of this, most vehicles have a speed limiter to prevent from entering this mode and causing damage to the driveline.

Some detail –
As mentioned above, the driveshaft rotates at a certain speed based on rear axle ratio; tire size and road speed, but is independent of engine speed (unless you have a vehicle such as a Porsche 944 or C5 Corvette which utilize torque tubes and transaxles, in which case the driveshaft turns at engine speed).

The factors governing driveshaft critical speed include its material properties (i.e., Bulk Modulus of Elasticity which is roughly analogous to material stiffness), diameter, and length and to a lesser degree, wall thickness.

The only factor you can really modify to affect critical speed is material choice. Length is package-dictated, and diameter is usually constrained by driveline tunnel space as well. The answer then becomes a bit simpler – replace your steel shaft with an aluminum or MMC (metal matrix composite) shaft. Both offer reduced weight, which is key in this frequency range. MMC offers the additional bonus of additional damping and stiffness over a typical aluminum alloy.

As mentioned above, at the frequencies in question, a change in rotational mass has a greater impact on resonant frequency than a change in stiffness does, partly since it is easier to reduce mass than increase stiffness (adding stiffness almost invariably means adding mass -- a vicious circle), but particularly since resonant frequency is equal to the sqrt (k/m), where m is mass and k is stiffness. Here m is a stronger function being the in the denominator of a square root. So you can see that as “m” gets smaller, the resonant frequency “f” gets much bigger.

The use of an aluminum shaft provides a dual purpose – increasing critical speed out of the operating range AND directly reduces the rotational forces since those rotational forces are governed by:

F = mr w**2
Where w is rotation speed, m is the mass and r is the radius at which it is spinning.

This means that a 50% reduction in rotational mass results in 50% less rotational force. So, when a driveshaft rotates out of true, due to run out of the shaft itself or due to trans output shaft or axle companion flange run out, the reduced mass * the radius of gyration (i.e., run out) product is smaller than for the same conditions with a steel shaft.

This becomes important not only at critical speed, but at more normal operational speeds where the effects of run out and mass imbalance are more evident than those of resonance:

For a typical Fox or SN95 Mustang, driveline critical speed is around 95-100 Hz. Using stock tires we have the following:

225-60R15, 225-55R16, 245-45R17 all rotate at 812-820 revs/mile at 60 mph.

This give is 13.5 Hz wheel frequency at 60 mph, and assuming a 3.27 axle, we then have:

812/60*3.27 or 44.25 Hz , driveline frequency.

So, 100/44.25*60 yields a driveline critical VEHICLE speed of 135 mph. A good rule of thumb states that the objectionable driveline forces will start becoming significant at 70% of resonant frequency, so for the case of the 3.27 axle, the boom and vibration may be felt beginning at 95 mph.

Typically, 3.27 axles don’t provide the driver with much to complain about; it is 3.73 and above which create the concerns. Using a 3.73, we find that

13.53*3.73 gives 50.5 Hz wheel frequency at 60 mph (substantially higher than the 3.27)

And the critical VEHICLE speed then becomes

100/50.5*60 or 119 mph.

Taking 70% of 119 mph equals 83 mph, certainly a speed at which some Mustang drivers experience occasionally.

For a 4.10 axle, the “70% speed” is 76 mph!

Compounding this problem are factors like transmission output shaft run out, imbalances and run outs from components such as the reverse sun gear, driveshaft, companion flange and pinion pitch line run out (a torque induced run out created when the pinion tries to crawl up the face of the ring gear involutes).

Combine these factors and the already marginal NVH resulting from proximity to 1st bending (critical speed) and the NVH becomes absolutely agricultural.

The aluminum shaft minimizes the contribution from companion flange run out and the driveshaft’s own run out, directly due the lower mass. The pinion is free to pitch +/- 20 degrees and adding in any run outs of the companion flange or driveshaft at the pinion end results in the driveshaft mass having a large eccentric path to wobble about. It is this path times the mass of the driveshaft, which gives the characteristic boom and vibration at highway speeds.

Thus, as Newton predicted, as mass decreases so will the forces. That is why an aluminum shaft is your friend when coupled to 3.73s.

One side note: that great big mass on your pinion nose, fondly named by driveline engineers after the appendage on a male moose, is tuned to 45 Hz, the frequency at which the 2nd order forces created by u-joints as they rotate, force the pinion to bounce or pitch up and down and shake you by the seat of your pants and create an uncomfortable boom in the car. Once again run outs and imbalances will modulate this 2nd order driveline phenomenon to make it worse, so the moral is, LEAVE THE MOOSEB-, uh, DAMPER ON the pinion nose!

Another item: you CAN expect more axle noise when using an aluminum shaft however, which does not necessarily mean the pinion depth or side shims are incorrect, or that the gear cutting process is flawed. It just means that the aluminum shaft is more willing to “bend” circumferentially, torsionally and in a double hump (2nd bending) much more easily than a steel shaft.

Recall my prior statements at the very beginning about aluminum stiffness vs. steel? Picture a piece of sheet metal ducting. Bend it and it makes a WA-WA sound. That is pretty much what a driveshaft does, but at a much higher frequency – higher than even the dreaded “critical speed” of 100 Hz.

Axle noise will occur from about 350 Hz all the way through 500 Hz, sometimes even higher than that. The energy comes from the teeth meshing at the pinion/ring gear interface. This energy is transmitted to the driveshaft (and suspension components) and makes them deflect in the same sense as a piece of sheet metal goes WA-WA. Aluminum is less stiff than steel and takes less energy to deflect it, so it is far more inclined to make your axle go WOOOOO as you drive down the road at 45-70 mph.

Assuming again a 3.73 axle ratio, which has 11 teeth on the pinion and 41 on the ring gear, the axle noise frequency is calculated as (at 45-70 mph):

815/60*3.73*11 or 557 Hz at 60 mph.

This means the WOOO you hear at 45 mph is about 418 Hz and the WEEEEEE you hear at 70 mph is way up there at 650 Hz. You can’t SEE the driveshaft is bending and breathing and twisting, but it is telling you that precisely that is occurring.

So, now armed with this information, you now understand the basics of your vehicle’s driveline.

Information provided by JW
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CRUZTAKER
10-23-2007, 07:54 PM
Is it wise to have the OEM driveshaft balance or buy a new light aluminum driveshaft and do those still have to be balanced?

Yeah I'll take the name of the place Joe.

Trying not to be snotty....but you already have a "light aluminum" driveshaft.;)

sailsmen
10-23-2007, 08:11 PM
I may have it rebalanced because around 45-60mph I get a harmonic vibration it's very annoying ;above 60mph it goes away. I know it's not the wheels nor the tires. I have had them balanced twice the second time with a roadforce machine. I'am almost 95% sure it's the driveshaft. I feel this will do the trick.

Try indexing the ds 180*.

burt ragio
10-24-2007, 10:54 AM
Dennis great info very informative. MY girlfriend cam in the room as I'am reading your post and wants to know why I'am scratching my head ?