View Full Version : AC/Heater Fan speed module
Wires
03-06-2008, 06:18 PM
I've spent the last hour trying to get that &%$@@@!!!!!!!!! thing out of my car with no luck.
The screws are difficult as %$^&$(*%$$!!!!! to get to, but I managed to get them out. Then I tried to get the module itself out. The $%^&$#% heater hose is in the way. I'd like to shoot the Ford guy that designed that. After I beat the living $)$%*$$ out of him.
Is it possible to get that stupid thing out without removing the engine from the car? Does the heater hose (or both hoses) have to come out? Does the hard pipe at the back of the engine need to come out?
Do I need to sell the marauder, all of my tools, buy a Honda and turn in my man card?
Marauderjack
03-07-2008, 03:55 AM
It will come out and the new one will go back in without removing the heater hoses....You have to work it out at an angle and flex the plenum box a little but it does eventually come out!!!:argue:
I think it is easier with the hoses removed though...your call!!:cool:
I like the "#@!&%*#@!*"....only because I've been there and done just THAT!!!!!.......#@!%&*^#@!!!!!!!:mad2:
Good Luck!!
Marauderjack:burnout:
Wires
03-07-2008, 06:18 AM
One says stupid things when one is angry. I'd never buy a Honda. Ever.
As for the module, I don't know. I thought I had it licked when I took the spark plug cover off and got the strain relief rubber plug out of the way - that allowed me to get the wrench in there to remove the screw.
I had the thing about half-way out, but it was caught on the heater hose, and I was afraid I was damaging it. I thought about removing the hoses, but I don't have the special pliers for the hose clamps, and, being in a tight situation, it looks difficult to do with regular pliers.
Then I noticed that even if the hose was out of the way, the hard pipe would still be in the way. It might give me a little wiggle room, maybe enough to do it.
I didn't flex the plenumn though.
I'd like to get the thing off myself, but with one of the best Ford mechanics just down the road in Marietta, It's tempting to "weenie" out and pay him to change it, along with those heater hoses while he's there.
UncleLar
03-07-2008, 06:37 AM
Pick up new heater hoses,after you have them in hand cut and remove the old ones,take a side cutter and cut the clamps.Quick and dirty. If you're going to change the old hoses you don't have to do it like you were going to re use them. No?
Marauderjack
03-07-2008, 06:39 AM
Did you remove this gizmo and get it out of the way??:confused:
As I recall I was able to pull the heater hose up and out of the way after moving the "gismo"!!!:beer:
I did not remove the valve cover!!:shake:
This controller placement is almost as crazy as the oil filter placement!!!:argue:
Good Luck!!
Marauderjack:bandit:
Wires
03-07-2008, 09:42 AM
Did you remove this gizmo and get it out of the way??:confused:
:argue:
Good Luck!!
Marauderjack:bandit:
I did unbolt that thing, whatever it is (part of the fuel evap system???) but I couldn't figure out how to disconnect the larger, stiff plastic hose, so it kind of flopped around in my way.
I didn't remove the valve cover, although I can see that that would help with wrench room. I did remove the spark plug cover, because the strain relief for the coil primary wires, a large rubber plug, was in the "swing area" of my wrench.
I got that pesky bottom screw out and thought I was home free. My celibration was short, when I saw how much of the module was sticking in the plenum.
I guess I should try it again after a brief rest.
Two questions:
Does anyone know how to safely remove the "gizmo?" That is, I need to disconnect the plastic hose. It seems as if it could have gotten brittle from age, I was scared to bother it.
I tested my fan before I started this, and it was good. My head unit seems to work OK - I hear the AC clutch kick on, I hear the vacuum motors being driven, and the temp display works. I just have no fan. Nada - zip, nothing.
Also, the last time it worked, I smelled a burning, electrical smell. I guess I discovered what it was! I had convinced myself it wasn't from my car! (you know how that goes.)
Thanks for your suggestions.
Anyone in the Georgia/Tennesee/Alabama/Florida area knows that if I finally give up, I have good backup, (Scott Levine and the rest of the people at Team Ford) but I'd like to do it myself, if possible.
GordonB
03-07-2008, 09:01 PM
Wires,
Couple of comments ---
1. If you are concerned about possible bad blower motor, remove it and jury-rig a pair of wires to the battery -- think there is only 1 lead to motor plus housing for ground. I did the R&R a while ago on Red MM and motor will run like weeee! on straight 12 volts -- if it does NOT run at all, you need a new motor.
2. Heater hose clamps --REUSE thise puppies -- they are the BEST -- they do NOT dig into the hoses and maintain constant pressure to seal GOOOOOD!
GordonB
Marauder386
03-07-2008, 10:01 PM
JUst a few weeks ago I did this to RoadPig # 1 and yes, its not a pretty job as I have the rear cooling mod back there also...as pictured, unplug/remove that fuel item...I did go ahead and drain the cooling system and then removed all the hoses. Yes, the screws are quite the PITA "Beeech-bolt" type...especially the lower one to the inside. I did have to flex the plenum box and after that it was very straightforward. I still have the scars from opening up a couple of knuckles but what the hey...
8)
Wires
03-15-2008, 07:10 PM
Sorry for my brief absence - I went on vacation, and the wireless internet on my laptop didn't work. By the time I got it fixed (needed a driver, but had to wait for a wired connection) we had moved on to Death Valley, CA, where there's no internet at all!
Anyway, I did test the fan first, it runs just fine on 12V. I guess I could have some strange control-head problem, but since the rest of the thing works normally, I'm thinking that's not it.
I plan on trying once more after removing the heater hose.
Does anyone know the trick to the connector? I can't figure it out, and I sure as heck don't want to break it! I'll never replace that thing without removing the engine. (Hmmm, Well, honey, I had to remove the engine to fix the air conditioner, then while the engine is out, I should go ahead and install beefier components to support that supercharger......)
Seriously, if anyone can explain how to get that connector off, I'd appreciate it. Oh yes, the hard plastic tube to the fuel vapor solenoid thingy - does anyone know how to disconnect that?
Also, I thank everyone for their help.
Wires
03-18-2008, 08:16 AM
:DIt's Out!!!!:D
I didn't see any clip release or anything like one on those "gizmo" hoses, so I just pulled them out. It seems they are held on by o-ring seals. I'm not happy with how they look - I think the no good dealer service dept. that changed my engine messed them up. (It was NOT (strong emphasis on NOT) Team Ford. Team Ford fixed many of the problems that the other service dept created)
I drained the radiator, but it didn't seem to make a difference - coolant went everywhere when I removed the heater hoses.
I was scared of the heater core - I was afraid it was plastic, and I know horror stories of heater core pipes breaking at the firewall. I cut the hoses off because I didn't want to apply any force to the core tubes. I found out that the core tubes are aluminum, but I went slowly and tore my hands up, making small cuts in the hoses and trying to rip the hose apart with my hands. (cut some more, rip some more, repeat, repeat, repeat.) This is where my lack of experience shows. I didn't want to damage the core tubes by scoring them with the knife. I eventually got them off. (used some colorful language.) If I did damage the core, I'm not changing that sucker. I'm proud that there isn't a mark on the tubes - I ripped the hose bare-handed, and my fingers are sore to show for it!
I had to take hose #1 off to get "pliers room" to get hose #2 off (the one in my way). Once that was gone - the module slipped right out. The harness was long enough for me to leave it connected and pull it away from the plenum and get a good look at it. (maybe mine is mis-routed due to the aforementioned poor mechanics) I saw the connector release.
Now, some parts from Ray and I'll be all set.
Does anyone know if there is a special procedure for re-filling the cooling system? Do any air bleeds need to be opened? I must have not done something when I tried to drain it.
Again, I thank everyone for their help.
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