Rusted disc brake rotor

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

My lincoln has been out of commission for about a week, brakes went completely out whilst driving..so with the nicer weather I have been trying to change my pads and rotors today, and inspecting the brake fluid leak. Everything went smoothly until I notice the passenger side disc seems to be rust-welded onto the damn hub. Already sprayed liberally with wd-40 and have beaten the ***** out of it with a rubber mallet/hammer.

Anything you guys recommend doing to pry the bastard off? I am leaving the thing over night to see if it loosens up by the morning, just wondering if anyone here has gone through this and what your guys' advice would be?

This is horrible, I can literally hang sideways off the rotor and it wont budge :mad2: Thanks.

[rvaldez1]

You are SOL, just get a new rotor and get a 5lb sledge. LOL.

Some have tried PB blaster, heat, I would say its not worth the effort.

[mtenderenda]

I used a Craftsman 4 Jaw Large Gear Puller (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00946903000P?vNa me=Tools&cName=Mechanics+Tools&sName=Automotive+Specialty+Too ls)..It took 1 minute to pull the old rotor off for me..The puller looks like a eagle claw...

[MM2004]

My lincoln has been out of commission for about a week, brakes went completely out whilst driving..so with the nicer weather I have been trying to change my pads and rotors today, and inspecting the brake fluid leak. Everything went smoothly until I notice the passenger side disc seems to be rust-welded onto the damn hub. Already sprayed liberally with wd-40 and have beaten the ***** out of it with a rubber mallet/hammer.

Anything you guys recommend doing to pry the bastard off? I am leaving the thing over night to see if it loosens up by the morning, just wondering if anyone here has gone through this and what your guys' advice would be?

This is horrible, I can literally hang sideways off the rotor and it wont budge :mad2: Thanks.

Are you sure it isn't the bearing? If they run dry, the bearing can build up enough heat to weld itself to the spindle.

Good luck!

Mike.

[fastblackmerc]

PB Blaster, heat 'n' beat.

[GreekGod]

Never hammer to remove. Professionals use an acetylene torch (propane isn't as hot, and takes too long to heat), concentrated at the inner circle hole of the rotor.

The heat will quickly expand the rotor, and break loose the rust, which has fused the rotor to the hub. When done properly, it pops off/loose in less than a minute.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Thanks guys, let it sit with a concentrated amount of wd-40 and hit that mofo with a heavy hammer. Popped loose in a sec. But only after being left over night was it able to free up. I have a small leak on the steel part of the hose going to it. Now will have to figure out how to cheaply get around replaceing the whole thing.

[Icarus]

Do it right the first time, these are your brakes your messing with, one of the most important parts of the car! ;)
Using some anti-seize around the edge where it slids over the hub will help it not stick again.

[finster101]

Thanks guys, let it sit with a concentrated amount of wd-40 and hit that mofo with a heavy hammer. Popped loose in a sec. But only after being left over night was it able to free up. I have a small leak on the steel part of the hose going to it. Now will have to figure out how to cheaply get around replaceing the whole thing.


Cheap is not the way on brakes. If the steel line is rusted it must be replaced. Do not use compression fittings on a brake line. You can purchase brake line already made up in differrent lengths at your FLAPS, you will need to put a fitting hwere you cut the steel line with a pipe cutter and the flare it. Connect the two with a barrel fitting. If you don't know how to do this correctly, pay someone to do it. Brakes have to be right!

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Thanks guys, appreciate the info. Slap me upside the head but I used some quik steel on the pinhole leak, lol. believe it or not it hasnt leaked since. But the pedal is not firm as it should be with new rotors and pads. I have to pump it to get some feedback on the second time. I wonder if I got some air in the system or something :dunno:

[finster101]

Thanks guys, appreciate the info. Slap me upside the head but I used some quik steel on the pinhole leak, lol. believe it or not it hasnt leaked since. But the pedal is not firm as it should be with new rotors and pads. I have to pump it to get some feedback on the second time. I wonder if I got some air in the system or something :dunno:


You are on borrowed time, and a safety hazard. :shake:

[Breadfan]

Thanks guys, appreciate the info. Slap me upside the head but I used some quik steel on the pinhole leak, lol. believe it or not it hasnt leaked since. But the pedal is not firm as it should be with new rotors and pads. I have to pump it to get some feedback on the second time. I wonder if I got some air in the system or something :dunno:

First - um...what is "Quik Steel"? Please tell me you didn't JB Weld the brake line...

Second - did you bleed the brakes? Most definitely there is air in the lines. A mush and nonresponsive pedal is the best symptom, the not so best is when air is in the caliper and the brakes don't apply.

You need to bleed the brakes and properly repair the line. There is ALOT of pressure and any sort of quick repair will fail.

[GreekGod]

There is ALOT of pressure and any sort of quick repair will fail.

Front disc hydraulic pressure is tested @ 1,000 pounds per square inch.