Autolite 4100 quick float spring question

[Breadfan]

On my dad's 65 Marauder, the 4100 auotlite carb had a float pin spring on the secondary float, but didn't see one on the primary.

Since the secondary float went bad, I ordered two new floats and a new spring from Pony Carb. They sent me two springs along with the two floats. (I'm replacing both prim and sec floats.)

Should it have a float pin spring on the primary float?

Again the one we have didn't have one, but that doesn't mean in the last 40 years it disappeared if the carb was ever opened and serviced.

But, pony's own carb diagrams only show one spring...9F571 is the part# on the diagram.
http://www.ponycarburetors.com/images/pdfs/4100.pdf


Since I have two, should I put just one on the secondary, or put one on the primary float as well? AFAIK before the float went bad, the car ran fine the way it was (i.e. one float pin spring on the secondar,y none on the primary)

thanks!

[Local Boy]

You need to use a spring on BOTH floats...

They are there to keep them from "hanging-up"...

Take a look at your diagram, there are two springs noted 9F571 and 9A570...

That's your primary spring...

ALOHA

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

Didn't you find that the primary and secondary floats were different part #s, but you ordered two of one float? The difference in part # was probably the spring. You probably received two secondary floats. I wouldn't try to out smart the diagram... whenever I would try to second guess carbs I would end up with either a flood or a fire.

[Breadfan]

Pony had seperate part #'s for the floats and springs. The floats were the same, the springs different part #'s.

Although I got two springs, they weren't exactly the same, they were reversed which made them fit the primary and secondary just fine. The floats were identical otherwise.

I got the parts installed yesterday and the car started and runs like a champ! Even after the rebuild done in November, where the bad float wasn't soaking up fuel, it's running better than then.

I will say with Pony's floats they were nice but one thing I didn't care for was the leg the needle valve attaches to on the back of the float. On the original, that leg has a slight bent lip at the end to keep the wire that holds the needle valve from sliding off. on the pony floats, the leg was perfectly flat. I found when installed that the needle valve was dangeriously close to falling off the float when installed and when the float would move. It was too close to coming off so I went aheand bent the tab slightly at the end to be sure it'd retain it.

Otherwise, I'm happy with the results.

I then tackled the vacuum lines, we've been having troulbe again getting it to switch to defrost and failed inspection due to that. Well the vacuum lines are in poor shape so I'm going to start replaceing a lot of them and get things back into shape...

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

It was too close to coming off so I went aheand bent the tab slightly at the end to be sure it'd retain it.

Is this the tab to set the float level, that you bent? Did you set the float levels when you put it together? I haven't worked on this particular carb but the springs in Holleys were to keep the float down right? Just a light tiny little spring, and then the fuel level and bouyancy would override it?

[Breadfan]

Is this the tab to set the float level, that you bent? Did you set the float levels when you put it together? I haven't worked on this particular carb but the springs in Holleys were to keep the float down right? Just a light tiny little spring, and then the fuel level and bouyancy would override it?

Yes the springs keep the floats down. No, these tabs don't set the float level, they just are where the needle valve slides onto. that's just a part of the main metal tab.

I did bend the main metal tab on both floats as well to adjust float height.