Livelink log - am I knocking?

[Paul]

I installed the NOIC SC kit from Dennis last week, and have the basic tune he supplies with the kit. I ran a couple of long data logs while on a highway trip to the beach last weekend using SCT's Livelink. The attached screenshot shows the period just prior to exiting the highway and then the in-town driving as we arrived at our destination.

Just prior to exiting the interstate I went WOT and ran up the speed and RPM's - this is the big spike in the attached screenshot. Do the spikes in the knock sensor #1 voltage mean I am experiencing knocking/pinging/detonation?

[Zack]

I told you and I know another member told you this:

DONT GO WOT with the tune provided.

You are asking for your car to blow up.
(which is fine I suppose if you sell me the car for cheap)

[TooManyFords]

Yes, it is. Look at the Spark entry: 5.x degrees. The knock sensor pulled a bunch of timing when it was detected.

And yes, you need to get it tuned or whomever supplied the tune needs to redo it for the NOIC kit so it doesn't do that.

John

[Zack]

Any SC file should be sent out with 10 degrees of timing across the board.
There is no way it can detonate with 10 degrees.

Safety would be my Number 1 priority if I sent out blower tunes.
Going to a dyno after a SC install is MANDATORY
Cars are like fingerprints. One base tune will most cerainly act different on another car.
The Trilogy cars are the ONLY tune certain to work perfectly safe on all cars. Thats because countless hours of R&D went into it. And this statement is easily proven with a custom dyno cause you're sure to pick up 40-60rwhp with a 'Custom' tune.

[TooManyFords]

Agreed.

:)

[KillJoy]

WOW! Simply, WOW!

:rolleyes:

KillJoy

[Paul]

O.k., thanks guys. Time to get-er-done. It runs so well otherwise, and I never felt or heard a thing. If it weren't for the Livelog and the interpretation from y'all experts I wouldn't have believed it. (or is that "youse experts"?)

[Dennis Reinhart]

Paul I told you the exact same thing on the phone stay out of WOT till the cars AF can be checked a NOIC has very low timing at the higher loads, the car needs to go on a dyno.

[Vortech347]

Wow. I thought mine reading 3 or 4 on our 01 cobra was high. Stay off the gas till you get it to a tuner/dyno.

[Paul]

Here are some more logs. I took screenshots of what might be interesting. First are spikes in fuel pressure coinciding with intermittent open loop. Second, when accelerating (not wot), fuel pressure declines somewhat while maf count and knock sensor voltage increases. Wouldn't this be a leaning out of the AF ratio? Or am I just seeing a cause-effect relationship whether it is there or not...because I don't know what I'm looking at. In the third, I found presence of the coasting flag and a reduction in the number of cylinders firing, all at the same points in time. Why would fuel pressure spike to 90 intermittently, and at the same time go to open loop and shut down the cylinders? Thoughts?

[Marauderjack]

[QUOTE=Paul;649818 Why would fuel pressure spike to 90 intermittently, and at the same time go to open loop and shut down the cylinders? Thoughts?[/QUOTE]

I cannot answer the "open loop/cylinder shut down" but found that my FP rises as under hood temps raise the fuel rail temps above the boiling point of fuel......this increase in pressure keeps the fuel from boiling/vaporizing in the rails (VERY LEAN CONDITION)!!:eek:

Mine normally idles at around 38 PSI cold and I've seen it idle in traffic at 45-55 PSI with engine temp above 200*...........coasting down from 60 it jumps to 55-90 PSI depending on temps.:beer:

Don't blow that thing up before ya get the A/F checked!!:shake:

Marauderjack:burnout:

[Bradley G]

Why is the canned tune for the noic so aggressive?
If 10* of timing is foolproof (safe),why does the stock tune come with such a low threshold from detonation?

[Paul]

Don't blow that thing up before ya get the A/F checked!!:shake:



I have every intention of not doing so. These last logs from yesterday are at normal around town driving, babying it, no wot runs, not even hard acceleration. But the car is my daily driver and I have to go to work.

Here's another question: is a stock tune (NA) supposed to run so much timing in normal driving? 25-35 degrees of spark? And then it is only cut back to 15 degrees under WOT?

[Zack]

Here's another question: is a stock tune (NA) supposed to run so much timing in normal driving? 25-35 degrees of spark? And then it is only cut back to 15 degrees under WOT?


Yes to the timing question.

[Marauderjack]

I have every intention of not doing so. These last logs from yesterday are at normal around town driving, babying it, no wot runs, not even hard acceleration. But the car is my daily driver and I have to go to work.

Here's another question: is a stock tune (NA) supposed to run so much timing in normal driving? 25-35 degrees of spark? And then it is only cut back to 15 degrees under WOT?

Paul,

Advanced timing is your "Fuel Mileage Friend"!!!:beer: The more timing you can run without detonation the better your efficiency. In high compression motors of "yesteryear" (pre-computer cars) timing advanced with RPM's and normally was at full advance by 3000 RPM's and they required very high octane fuel to prevent detonation!!:cool:

Today's cars try to squeeze every mile out of a tank of gas and do so with advanced timing at cruise or light throttle but pull the timing back instantly upon hard acceleration or the detection of spark knock......there was no way to quickly control this in pre-computer cars!!:shake:

So now, with computers, we have the best of many worlds.....high compression, extreme spark advance, instant and infinite spark adjustments, good fuel economy and BIG FAT cars that go fast thanks to all of it!!!:beer::bows:

The really neat part is that you can make changes via email, laptops and dyno runs....no more guessing as in "yesteryear"!!!:shake::D

Marauderjack:burnout:

[sailsmen]

As a side note the AutoMeter FP guage does not read correctly when the transducer gets hot.

The OBDII does read correctly.

[Marauderjack]

AutoMeter FP gauge does not read correctly at all relative to the OBD-II!!:shake:

OBD-II reads absolute (line pressure + atmospheric) and AutoMeter only reads line pressure.......OBD-II must have absolute to make fuel adjustments for altitude??:cool:

Marauderjack:burnout:

[Paul]

I spoke with Dennis and he is going to make whatever adjustments are necessary to keep it under control. Thank you! :beer: and thanks to everyone else for their input. It's how we noobies learn our way around. :beer:

[Dennis Reinhart]

Any SC file should be sent out with 10 degrees of timing across the board.
There is no way it can detonate with 10 degrees.

Safety would be my Number 1 priority if I sent out blower tunes.
Going to a dyno after a SC install is MANDATORY
Cars are like fingerprints. One base tune will most cerainly act different on another car.
The Trilogy cars are the ONLY tune certain to work perfectly safe on all cars. Thats because countless hours of R&D went into it. And this statement is easily proven with a custom dyno cause you're sure to pick up 40-60rwhp with a 'Custom' tune.


It has seven at a 1.9 load so I have adjusted the lower loads as well. I have told him what to data log and stay out of WOT, I spoke to him today, and I will send him a corrected file till he gets to the dyno.