Zack, what did you do to my car?!?!?

[ctrlraven]

SIKE! :P


:banana::banana::banana:
Whatever you did in the last tune update fixed the converter unlock and locking problem and it pulls a whole lot harder now. The 1-2 shift is spot on with no more lag from the converter locking and unlocking between 50-55mph. The way it shifts now even without increasing the shift line pressure feels like how it used to before I got the 3500 converter. 1-2 and 2-3 shifts were nice and firm but not hard like something was going to break. Road tested the car out on the service road next to my shop where I have starting point and a 85 mph point. Ran it a few times and each time I was about 5-7 mph faster at my 85 mph point.

Now I just need to get my butt in gear, get the 4.10s & posi rebuilt and hit the track. :banana2:

Yet again you have made my car more enjoyable to drive. :beer:

Thank you!

[DTRMiguel]

Yeah i now know ima try one of his tunes. Thanks for the advice

[SWOOSH]

Mike, get the Lidio tune, I installed that, and have had instant satisfaction since. The 4.10s made it so much more enjoyable (Glad I did the posi too at the same time).

[ctrlraven]

Mike, get the Lidio tune, I installed that, and have had instant satisfaction since. The 4.10s made it so much more enjoyable (Glad I did the posi too at the same time).
Your still a slow poke :P

[SWOOSH]

Am I know? Ha ha, I at least feel fast and that's all that counts :P

[DTRMiguel]

I have lidio tune. I need to feel crtlravens car to see which bangs harder

[SWOOSH]

Thats a good point. Let me know which one feels better, hopefully the Lidio, because that's the one I have!

[DTRMiguel]

Chris u comin down here this weekend?

[ctrlraven]

Am I know? Ha ha, I at least feel fast and that's all that counts :P
Get a 3500 stall converter and you will be rolling even better!

Chris u comin down here this weekend?
No I got a lot of stuff to do around the house. My car doesn't bang hard with the shifts because of the converter. If you already have a Lidio tune I would just stick with it, nothing wrong with his tuning. First thing you need is a Xcal2 or Xcal3 unit. You can increase the shift line pressure right in the tuning if you want a little more "bang". But talk to Zack and see what he can do for you.

[SWOOSH]

Hmm, well, he didn't exactly answer your question. That 3500 converter sounds like more pressure on the tranny, is that true?

[Zack]

Glad you are happy!

[merc]

Get a 3500 stall converter and you will be rolling even better!

No I got a lot of stuff to do around the house. My car doesn't bang hard with the shifts because of the converter. If you already have a Lidio tune I would just stick with it, nothing wrong with his tuning. First thing you need is a Xcal2 or Xcal3 unit. You can increase the shift line pressure right in the tuning if you want a little more "bang". But talk to Zack and see what he can do for you.

Keep this in mind, an accumulator is a fluid "shock absorber" By increasing the spring pressure, you are forcing more fluid shift pressure to the plates and less to the accumulator, thus creating a harder shift. Most shift kits include accumulator spring kits. BUT ... if you do increase the accumulator spring rate, you should also increase the line pressure equivalently. For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction ... and the closer you stick to this in an automatic, the safer you are. This is also better for the transmission (to an extent) because it limits the amount of slippage on the clutch packs so they last longer. But you do reach a point at where parts "slap" together and cause fatigue. That is why you should always increase line pressure to match the accumulator spring rate. If you don't have a shift kit or upgraded accumulator spring why play with your line pressure. Sure it's cool to have harder shifts, but you will pay for it later down the road with additional wear. Flame suit on.

While I am on the myth busting rant, let's talk about 3500 stall converters. The torque converter is probably one the most misunderstood pieces of equipment. People often brag about having a "3500 stall speed converter", without even knowing what that implies (as you will find out soon, a 3500 stall speed converter would generally be useless on any street car short of the most radical of Pro Streeters). Some even boast of having just a "stall speed converter", which displays a stunning ignorance, because ALL automatic transmission equipped vehicles have a "stall speed converter" - it's the number that makes the difference. The whole idea behind different stall speeds is to allow the car to launch at or just below the point where the engine makes the most torque. That way, the engine doesn't have to build up to the peak RPM point - all of the power is right there, on tap. If you've ever been to the drag strip, you have probably noticed that the cars rev way up before the light turns green - this is because most racing engines don't make substantial power until they are spinning over 3000 RPM. If these cars were using the stock stall speed, the tires would break loose long before the engine reached it's optimum RPM. A higher stall speed converter allows the engine to rev up to this optimum point without breaking the tires loose. A stock or N/A marauder will need a trans brake to hold at 3500 rpms. I bet a hundred dollars you will not be able to hold your brakes while revving that high on the line. You will push through every time. If you don't believe me, give it a try in your parking lot.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/3/5/4/8/run008.jpg

Could you explain why this well performing N/A Marauder would need a 3500 stall converter based on this dyno sheet? I

[hidperf]

I've got the Lidio tune and the J-Mod and it's perfect. Light pedal pressure it shifts quick but not too harsh. The more throttle I add, the harder it shifts. I haven't messed with any line pressure so far, just whatever Lidio does on his 4.10 w/ 93octane tunes.

[Zack]

Hey Marc, if you are saying a 3500 stall converter does not benefit a Marauder (even the one making the good numbers above)...call your doctor.

[merc]

Hey Marc, if you are saying a 3500 stall converter does not benefit a Marauder (even the one making the good numbers above)...call your doctor.

I called my Doctor and his name is Darrin. I was talking about N/A Marauders. According to doctor Darrin ( Just got off the phone with him) he want's to see 3,550 to 3,800 stall speeds in N/A Mach1's and Marauders. I don't completely agree, but I will take a bite of Humble Pie on this issue.

Lidio posted this back in 03

This is why I’m suggesting leaving the 3.55’s in the rear for now if the Trilogy blower is in your Marauder’s future. Also the stock torque converter stall speed is perfect for the blower application. Once again a change here would only produce greater traction problems and if loosened up to much can cause a drivability concern around town when locking and unlocking.


This one came from my buddy Shakes back in 2006
Merc,

We spoke the other day on the phone about this.

I ran the PI 3K stall, setup for a 400-450hp car, I spoke with Don (I think) at P.I, ran this on the car NA for a while, it dropped my ET to the lower 14s If I remember correctly. I was using Lidio's NA tune, short of the low mpg I was seeing Highway (my fault I have a lead foot) it ran fine, perfect shifting. I did need more gas to get the car 'moving' but once into it it went. I thought this was due to the added 'looseness' for the expeced higher hp.

I added the Trilogy standard blower kit to the car. With this combo, and drag radials, I ran a best of 12.4, with 1.71 at the 60' mark. What I found was I could launch the car at about 2K rpm, roll into the gas and then stand on it. My car was pretty fast, I also had the K&N and a full exhaust 2.5" on the car. Consistent was 12.55-12.6 quarter mile, about 1.8 0-60

I then added the 3.0 pulley, fuel pump and custom tune by Scott. Why? Because with the smaller pulley I needed a tune and well, I wasn't going to go across country to get it done. Plus Scott is very good at what he does. I basically ran a best of at 12.17 with this combo, 0-60 was 1.77, big power. I consistently ran 12.3s in this trim, but I just didnt care for the driveability with the torque converter. It had been there since the beginning, that little you have to give it 'extra' gas to get rolling.

Now there was nothing wrong with the TC, just that little tick, I could not live with. Like the damn 2 specks of dirt under the paint on the right front qrtr panel....lets not go there. Anyway, I took the TC out and went back oem.

I haven't had much track time with her in this trim, I found I was launching too hard and spinning the Nitto's, so I'll need to lower the launch rpm. I was running mid 12.5s,with 1.95/2 flat 0-60 but I've tweaked a few things since then, so with some cooler air (Florida summer ya know) and less humidity, I should be able to make up some of that difference.

For the street, I do not miss the TC one bit. Nada. With the car in gear at idle, I lift off the brake and the car starts moving... I love that.

In short if you had no issues witht he TC under NA, you wont have any with it running an Eaton. As with any setup you'll need to learn it. I went trhough a set of drag radials until I got 'it' down and the feeling was there of what I could and could not get away with (traction wise).

And with those QA1's, you'll be able to dial in those launches nicely for track conditions.
Last edited by shakes_26; 08-21-2006 at 11:46 PM.

[hidperf]

Some interesting reading on torque converters:
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/torque_converters_explained.as p

[CRUZTAKER]

"...and then Jesus tuned my hotrod -a-dang-a-long-ling-long."


Uh huh......;)

[merc]

Uh huh......;)

Did he look like this?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v44/pjforever/MiscPics/tneely.jpg

[J D]

"...and then Jesus tuned my hotrod -a-dang-a-long-ling-long."

I still don't know what in the world you're referring to. :confused:

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Installed my ZACK tune today, and...Holy **** :cool:, pure genious. . Anyone planning on getting a tune, I would HIGHLY recommend this. Zack, I still had to measure my tires' height by hand to get the speedo corrected, as it was off but perfect now with my gps. And thanks Zack :up:

[Zack]

Glad to help.
7 days left to get a badazz tune for your Marauder :up:

[ctrlraven]

Hey Marc, if you are saying a 3500 stall converter does not benefit a Marauder (even the one making the good numbers above)...call your doctor.

I thought my setup would have proved enough. With proper "tuning" even a stock geared 3.55 NA MM can benefit from it. Now how much is really the question I was only able to squeeze out .06 off my ET on 255/55-18 kdw2 tires. Once I switched to my 255/50-16 drag radials my effective rear gear changed to 3.90 and I went from 14.19 to 13.72 (difference of .47). I believe I could of gotten more if the engine was cooler and my posi wasn't started to fail way back in the fall.

I think a 3500 stall WITH 4.10 gears is a great upgrade combo for the MM owner that likes to hit the track often. I got mine by chance as Reinhart offered it to me at a below advertised price with free shipping cause he had been sitting on it for a while and wanted to get rid of it. Sure why not? Save some money!

Merc, I'm not up at 3500 yet (already thought about a trans brake) but 2700-2800 is as high as I can go foot braking it before the rears break loose at the line.

It's all in the combo of parts and the TUNE to support the function of those parts.

[Zack]

Its highly unlikely on an NA Marauder that ANY stall converter will stall at its advertised speed by just mashing the gas. They always seem to stall early.

The only real way to make the converter perform as advertised is to 'flash' it at the starting line... this is what I do a the track and its proven to work as proved by my consistent 1.6 sixty foot times.

When you are at the tree, FIRMLY step on the brake. When you are ready to launch, mash the gas until the rpm's almostreach the stall speed, then let off. As soon as the rpms drop back close to idle, mash the gas again and hold the brake until the rpms reach the stall speed, then let off the brake.
What this does is loosen up the converter and pretty much guarantees you will be taking full advantage of the advertised stall speed.

[merc]

Merc, I'm not up at 3500 yet (already thought about a trans brake) but 2700-2800 is as high as I can go foot braking it before the rears break loose at the line.

It's all in the combo of parts and the TUNE to support the function of those parts.

With the MSD 2-Step Launch control you can take full advantage of a high stall converter. I pioneered this mod and now 2 other Marauders have the MSD unit installed. If you are talking about racing and winning then you need a setup that will consistently move you car out of the hole. At MIR last night we had some incredible 60 foot times and reaction times. With a little more practice this will be the killer mod for any racer. Zack is talking about 1.6 sixties, I am talking about 1.4 sixtes and hitting a .0XX reaction time 7 out of 10 times. If you line up to a Marauder with a MSD unit installed you will loose 9 racing out of 10. The downside is I suggest you have a good rear end and sticky tires.



The only real way to make the converter perform as advertised is to 'flash' it at the starting line... this is what I do a the track and its proven to work as proved by my consistent 1.6 sixty foot times.

When you are at the tree, FIRMLY step on the brake. When you are ready to launch, mash the gas until the rpm's almostreach the stall speed, then let off. As soon as the rpms drop back close to idle, mash the gas again and hold the brake until the rpms reach the stall speed, then let off the brake.
What this does is loosen up the converter and pretty much guarantees you will be taking full advantage of the advertised stall speed.

Zack, that's old news. What's new is, hit the switch, and release the brake then engage the gas on amber. No need to worry about rpms and stall speed. Your only focus is the tree.

[Zack]

Marc, are you saying you cut a 1.4 Sixty foot?

[ctrlraven]

With the MSD 2-Step Launch control you can take full advantage of a high stall converter. I pioneered this mod and now 2 other Marauders have the MSD unit installed. If you are talking about racing and winning then you need a setup that will consistently move you car out of the hole. At MIR last night we had some incredible 60 foot times and reaction times. With a little more practice this will be the killer mod for any racer. Zack is talking about 1.6 sixties, I am talking about 1.4 sixtes and hitting a .0XX reaction time 7 out of 10 times. If you line up to a Marauder with a MSD unit installed you will loose 9 racing out of 10. The downside is I suggest you have a good rear end and sticky tires.

Yep I know all about MSD 2-step stuff. Used to have one on my old foxbody. I wouldn't do something like that until the MM retires from DD duty.