Royal Purple question

[Shora]

Look, this is not just another oil thread....(Yes it is, Sorry.)

Small background:

My Marauder has received Motorcraft 5w-20 and a Motorcraft oil filter every 3K miles since day one (not once a different oil/ filter or longer than 3K).

I am now at around 60K miles.

-In your opinion(s) is it too late to switch to RP?

-Am I better of using RP (with a Motorcraft oil filter) and changing it every 5K miles or staying on my current routine of (Motorcraft oil and filter every 3K miles)?

I am not S/C. My engine is stock. I am looking at this from a durability point of view. The speed bug left me when I graduated high school. I put myself through college (couldn't afford tickets) and the need for speed just vanished and hasn't returned since.

I don't drive slowly by any means, but I don't race on the public road.

With the above info, what would you suggest for oil from a durability point of view?

Cheers.

[Vortech347]

It works well. I havn't ran it in any of my 4V's yet though. I run it in my race/play car.

[ctrlraven]

I used RP from 45k to 100k miles then switched over to Amsoil brand.I have to say I really like this oil. I've got 3k on my current oil change and the oil still looks golden color and I haven't been easy on it.

Honestly if you've been using Motorcraft just keep using it. Amsoil is a little bit cheaper than RP and I know tons of people that use their oil in their 9, 10 and 11 sec 1/4 street cars that get driven almost daily.

I ran RP for 5k miles per oil change and I could notice the color change when it was getting 3-4k miles into that oil change but with this Amsoil I could if I really wanted to go 7500-8000 miles. Last oil change I went 6k miles and when I drained the oil it was brown but still see-thru.

http://www.amsoil.com/

[Shora]

It works well. I havn't ran it in any of my 4V's yet though. I run it in my race/play car.

So from a durability point of view which, in your opinion, is better?

RP every 5K miles or Motorcraft every 3K?

[Shora]

I used RP from 45k to 100k miles then switched over to Amsoil brand.I have to say I really like this oil. I've got 3k on my current oil change and the oil still looks golden color and I haven't been easy on it.

Honestly if you've been using Motorcraft just keep using it. Amsoil is a little bit cheaper than RP and I know tons of people that use their oil in their 9, 10 and 11 sec 1/4 street cars that get driven almost daily.

I have heared nothing but praise for Amsoil but I the word is that it's a PITA to find. Also, do you feel Amsoil every 5K or MC every 3K?

[ctrlraven]

It's good stuff. Honestly the easiest way to get it and get it cheaper is to become a dealer. The shop next door to my work is a dealer so I get it at cost price but one of the owners told me about a link that I could use to get it cheaper. I'll talk to him tomorrow about it.

[Shora]

Edit:

Does anybody know if RP 5W-20 100% synthetic or 25% so?

[Vortech347]

In my stang the #1 differenced I noticed was when I tore down the engine to rebuild/freshen up the shortblock. There was 0 buildup at all after 35k. When I mean 0. I mean there wasn't even a FILM of anything on the oil pan. The shortblock before that I ran castrol syntech and after 25k the engine had NASTY buildup/sludge. Don't even get me started on a 100k 302 shortblock I changed out for a friend that was ran on *cringe* walmart/coastal/cheap stuff. I used a FREAKING PUTTY KNIFE cleaning the pan.

Honestly I dont' see much "short term" gains in switching to exotic oils unless you're doing something out of the ordinary, like reving to 7000+RPM ALOT or extreme heat/cold, ect. The biggest factor for me was sludge and wear. If the engine is nasty inside you can bet you're ass things will wear down alot quicker.

I have also taken apart a shortblock 4V ran ONLY semi-synthetic Motorcraft 5w-20 and I was very impressed with how clean everything was. It was an 01 cobra(not mine) that had about 60k on it. So thats what I've stuck with in my MM. I do run it hard but I don't think it needs any specialty oil, the factory stuff performs pretty damn good.

Also you can't really judge oil by how it comes out of the car. The big reason oil gets dirty is carbon deposits. Thats why Natural Gas cars go up to 20-30k between oil changes.

[Shora]

In my stang the #1 differenced I noticed was when I tore down the engine to rebuild/freshen up the shortblock. There was 0 buildup at all after 35k. When I mean 0. I mean there wasn't even a FILM of anything on the oil pan. The shortblock before that I ran castrol syntech and after 25k the engine had NASTY buildup/sludge. Don't even get me started on a 100k 302 shortblock I changed out for a friend that was ran on *cringe* walmart/coastal/cheap stuff. I used a FREAKING PUTTY KNIFE cleaning the pan.

Honestly I dont' see much "short term" gains in switching to exotic oils unless you're doing something out of the ordinary, like reving to 7000+RPM ALOT or extreme heat/cold, ect. The biggest factor for me was sludge and wear. If the engine is nasty inside you can bet you're ass things will wear down alot quicker.


I have also taken apart a shortblock 4V ran ONLY semi-synthetic Motorcraft 5w-20 and I was very impressed with how clean everything was. It was an 01 cobra(not mine) that had about 60k on it. So thats what I've stuck with in my MM. I do run it hard but I don't think it needs any specialty oil, the factory stuff performs pretty damn good.

Also you can't really judge oil by how it comes out of the car. The big reason oil gets dirty is carbon deposits. Thats why Natural Gas cars go up to 20-30k between oil changes.

Good info.

So you are saying that I am better off sticking with MC every 3K miles rather than RP every 5K.

[RF Overlord]

In your opinion(s) is it too late to switch to RP?
It's never "too" late, unless the motor is in poor mechanical condition.


So from a durability point of view which, in your opinion, is better?

RP every 5K miles or Motorcraft every 3K?RP every 5k.


Does anybody know if RP 5W-20 100% synthetic or 25% so?RP is a full synthetic.

For the record, trying to judge the condition of an oil by its colour alone is VERY unreliable. An oil can look dirty and still be perfectly good; likewise it can look relatively clean, but the additive pack can be depleted or it can have high fuel dilution...for example.

[Cobra25]

I've used MotorCraft Blend, MobileOne, Amsoil & Royal Purple & Royal Purple XLR over the years. In my opionion the MobileOne & Royal Purple XLR are the best. The only thing is that Royal Purple XLR is about $14 per Qt and in my car it seams to runs better .

[DTRMiguel]

I use RP 5w-20 excellent on all my cars. Been 42XX and mine is still purple and im WOT everytime i step on the street

[Vortech347]

Good info.

So you are saying that I am better off sticking with MC every 3K miles rather than RP every 5K.

If you feel that the piece of mind is worth it go right ahead. It won't hurt anything and its a quality product.

I just think unless your MM is consistantly raced/abused then its kind of a waste.

[Shora]

Also you can't really judge oil by how it comes out of the car. The big reason oil gets dirty is carbon deposits. Thats why Natural Gas cars go up to 20-30k between oil changes.


For the record, trying to judge the condition of an oil by its colour alone is VERY unreliable. An oil can look dirty and still be perfectly good; likewise it can look relatively clean, but the additive pack can be depleted or it can have high fuel dilution...for example.


First, thanks for taking the time to give me your opinions.

I do wonder why I keep being told not to judge the oil by its looks. I read what I wrote again and cannot find where I suggested such a thing.

So far (from a durability perspective), I have:

MC changed at 3K=1 vote
RP changed at 5K=1 vote

Thanks for the info guys, but please make your votes more clear as it pertains to "durability".

Thanks.

[Vortech347]

I was responding to what someone else had said.

I vote for the MC and motorcraft filter.

[NATEHAWK]

I use RP and change it about every 4k..I use napa gold filters.

[magindat]

Ahem,

If I post in an oil thread, who knows in advance what I'm gonna say? Everybody.

Redline. Period.

[Bulten Rauder]

Royal Purple is the way to go. Why not use the best? It is the best for durability, hands down. The oil filter is also very important so use the best as well...

[Shora]

Looks like RP is winning.

Now, I just need to find the best place to buy it.

[Peace2Peep]

I hear redline oil does badly in shearing especially in diesel trucks(flame suit on) but royal purple is my vote and what I use.

[ctrlraven]

I used Mobile1 until I found out I could get RP for $6.49 a quart no tax and free shipping so I went with that until the place I got my RP from raised the price and then the shop next to my work sell me AMSOIL for $6.00 a quart so that's why I use it now and did a lot of research on them and heard nothing but good things also.

I used Mobile1 15w-40 I think in my 89 5.0. That's what the original owner always used in it so I will continue to use it. 193k miles on stock motor and doesn't burn any oil.

[magindat]

I hear redline oil does badly in shearing especially in diesel trucks(flame suit on) but royal purple is my vote and what I use.

You must have that one of a kind diesel Marauder...

:laugh:

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

I've got 3k on my current oil change and the oil still looks golden color and I haven't been easy on it.


Oil turning dark is not a bad thing. It means your oil is doing its job and putting contaminants in suspension. The oil NOT turning dark may mean your new oil is not doing as good of a job at this. Color is no way to judge how good the oil is............................ ...............

[Local Boy]

RP... only... for me!

ALOHA

[ctrlraven]

Oil turning dark is not a bad thing. It means your oil is doing its job and putting contaminants in suspension. The oil NOT turning dark may mean your new oil is not doing as good of a job at this. Color is no way to judge how good the oil is............................ ...............
RP/Mobile1 5k mile use, AMSOIL 7500k mile use. I know you can't judge how well the oil is by the color, I was just simply stating it, that's all.

The oil must be doing something cause my car feels like it has more power, smooth start-ups, better gas mileage (I drive the same routes, speeds, etc etc every week so my gas mileage is like clock work) and the last time I drained the oil I saw ZERO metal particles in the oil magnetic screen I use.

For a while I was starting to notice a fair amount of metal particles while using the RP (not saying it was the oil) but I think the new oil is helping the engine.

I also have a FilterMAG magnet on my oil filter.

The oil must be doing something cause the shop next door uses it in all their race cars and all of their client's vehicles. Some vehicles have 100k, 200, 300k plus miles on them and were serviced from day one using AMSOIL.

[Cobra25]

Looks like RP is winning.

Now, I just need to find the best place to buy it.Murrys Speed and Costom in Pompano Beach sell's it.

[Shora]

Murrys Speed and Costom in Pompano Beach sell's it.

Thanks Z!

Any idea how much?

[Cobra25]

Thanks Z!

Any idea how much? The Regular Royal Purple is around $5-$6 per qt. & the Royal Purple XLR is around $13-$14 per qt.approx. Call them first to make sure they have the 5W20 before you go. If they don't they will have it the next day for you. Murrys Speed & Custom 1551 North Dixie Highway, Pompano Beach Florida 33060-5471. Phone # 954-788-6843. Steve Coccaro is the Store manager.

[TAKEDOWN]

I'll be putting Royal Purple in my next oil change!

[Shora]

The Regular Royal Purple is around $5-$6 per qt. & the Royal Purple XLR is around $13-$14 per qt.approx. Call them first to make sure they have the 5W20 before you go. If they don't they will have it the next day for you. Murrys Speed & Custom 1551 North Dixie Highway, Pompano Beach Florida 33060-5471. Phone # 954-788-6843. Steve Coccaro is the Store manager.

Great info Z.

I will give them a call.

Thanks!

[Emperior]

Here's one for you! If you have switched to synthetic can you ever go back to MC blend? I heard you couldn't.

[MCAT]

RP has moly in it, moly is a solid, my 2 cents, I would put it in my racer (that would get tore down & rebuilt now & again) but not in my daily driver.

I use the origianl synthetic---AMSOIL

[Shora]

RP has moly in it, moly is a solid, my 2 cents, I would put it in my racer (that would get tore down & rebuilt now & again) but not in my daily driver.

I use the origianl synthetic---AMSOIL

Amsoil seems very hard to find and their 5w-20 in not 100% synthetic.

[slick rick]

Is RP a 100% synthetic?

[Shora]

Is RP a 100% synthetic?

Good point. I'm not sure.

[RF Overlord]

If you have switched to synthetic can you ever go back to MC blend? I heard you couldn't.You heard wrong. That's a myth that's been around since the first days of synthetics, but it hasn't been true for at least 25 years.


Is RP a 100% synthetic?Yes.

[Shora]

Yes.

Cool,
Thanks

[MCAT]

no oil is 100% synthetic, all oil starts from base pumped out of the ground, synthetic is a loose term, one of my jobs
at work is purchasing oil,(I am also ussualy invloved in trouble shooting when problems arise) there is no clear line between base, semi, & full synthetic, what one company will call semi synthetic another will call full synthetic & vice versa.

[RF Overlord]

no oil is 100% synthetic, all oil starts from base pumped out of the ground, That's not entirely true. Group IV (PAO) and Group V (Ester) oils are in fact synthesized, the Group IV oils from ethylene gas, for instance. The confusion comes in when referring to Group III (Severely Hydrocracked) oil. The National Advertising Division of the BBB decided that Group III oils, even though they start out as crude, are allowed to be called "Synthetic" since they display most of the properties of synthesized oils.
there is no clear line between base, semi, & full synthetic, what one company will call semi synthetic another will call full synthetic & vice versa.The line is actually quite clear. "Full synthetic" means it consists of 100% Group III, IV, or V. "Semi-synthetic" means it contains some percentage of Group III, IV, or V, usually between 5 and 30%. I've never heard of a company calling its full synthetic oil "semi-synthetic".

[Kennyrauder]

I'm running RP5W30. My 300A Marauder used to rattle the cam chains on startup when using Mobil 1 & puff a bit of smoke on startup. Now there is none. I have 40K miles on it now.

[Peace2Peep]

You must have that one of a kind diesel Marauder...

:laugh:


That's just it dude...I've got a 2005 Diesel Excursion and my Marauder...SO What's good for the Goose is good for the Gander! If Redline is not good enough for my burly Ford diesel, why would I put it in my delicate DOHC?