Cold Start Lower Rpms?

[SILVERMARAUDER]

Will your chip adjust the cold start rpm it jumps to 2k want this lower can your chip do this?

[TAF]

In Marauderville...we FINALLY got the answer as to why all of our cars do this directly from Steve Babcock.

He personally asked for the car to do this of the designers/ programmers to get that "aggressive, rumble, start-up" without using the accelerator.

No harm, it's the way it's supposed to be. As to whether the chip can over-ride it...Dennis is best to answer that.

<Sorry martyo...the opportunity presented itself>

[TripleTransAm]

Did he have any comment for the folks who complained of revving to beyond 2500 RPM on startup?

[SILVERMARAUDER]

Steve Babcock....i would love to talk to this guy it really tics me off reving up to 2k or better that is not good for the car to rev right up when cold i can hear a lower knock for a second or so and it would not do this if the start up rpm is lower if he had it adjusted this way there must be a way to change it!!! any one know of a contact at Mercury i can call?

[MMManic]

I'm with you Silver. I've complained about the cold rev on other threads and no one seems to have any solution yet. This is not good for the engine and I get the same two seconds of rod knocks as yourself. I only drive my MM on the weekends and the knocking is especially loud and gut-wrenching once all the oil has had seven days to drain completely into the pan.

I have resorted to removing the PCM fuse to allow the engine several cranks to get even a little oil moving and this has worked to eliminate the knocks- but I shouldn't have to do this!!!!! This isn't right and is unacceptable for a car such as the MM!

[TAF]

I think that Dennis is best to answer this as to whether he can "correct" it with the chip/flash.

Personally, I think it's a lot about nothing. Jerry W. wrote the program for the PCM...he's probably the most talented Ford tuner out there...and I can't imagine him/them signing off on something that would cause harm at startup.

Just my .02

[TripleTransAm]

I personally don't think 2000 RPM (well, just a bit under it, in my case) at startup is a big deal. Over 2000 RPM (as some have complained), it sounds a bit high. But what I'm concerned about is the reports of people complaining about knocking sounds at startup. I don't believe there is any situation where a knocking sound from an engine would be considered healthy.

Knock on e-wood, I have no >2000 RPM startups to worry about, nor do I have any knocking sounds after long periods of inactivity (although I *do* have a huff of blue-white smoke moments after startup!).

As far as software goes... hey, bugs happen. Why else would some MMs fire at over 2000 RPMs and others not? Some surge and hesitate in cold operation (resulting in fouled plugs), others run fine. From what I've read here, Jerry W sounds like a master at engine tuning, but I'm sure he didn't have the last word in what got released, otherwise I imagine they'd ALL run like sexually-molested primates straight out of the factory.

[TAF]

/Steve...I agree with the above. Jerry is not perfect, and I'm sure the final tune was not what he wanted (hence the "side-business' of PCM improvements that I am fortunate to have).

AND...if mine was going to 2,500RPMs...I'd want to talk to the dealer or Dennis for a potential adjustment.

I just wanted everyone to know that we asked the man, himself...and he said it was developed as a purposeful nature of the car.

And...I like it.

[TripleTransAm]

I guess that's what I'm unclear about...

Was the "designed" start-up RPM ~2000 or greater? I'm just trying to figure out what's up with the spread in reported startup RPMs... were the early ones higher than the later ones? Did they bring it down due to excessive wear at startup? etc... Just trying to figure out why I don't see the same high RPMs reported in the other threads.

I'll admit it... I like the 1900 RPM or so that my MM belts out immediately on startup as well. But I do know I also have a ticking driver's side front valvetrain, and a puff of smoke out the back. Next Monday my 4.6l will become the ONLY engine I've owned to be opened up for repair (my '84 Honda(s) doesn't count... that was reassembly).

[TAF]

I don't know the exact answer to that Steve. But, we were told that it was designed to go to 1,900-2,000RPM. Anything more than that might want to be checked. As to differences in newer/later models...could be in all the software programs. Hence the question that started this thread posed to Dennis.

Hopefully, he'll chime in here with his thoughts.

[TripleTransAm]

Okay, thanks Todd. That's exactly what I wanted to know (and am relieved to hear).

[Thomas C Potter]

Some elevated RPM's upon start-up are for heating the catalytic converters, but I agree the MM is excessive, cute sound or not. This is another reason I'm installing a preluber.

TP

[RF Overlord]

Question:

Is it possible we're just making too much of this issue?

This may just "add more fuel to the fire" (heh-heh), but I copied these two responses posted in other forums, one for Dodge Dakotas, and one for Ford F-150s:

"Almost any engine now will rev high on initial startup to give the catalytic converters a quick shot of heat to help bring them up to normal operating temperature quicker. This is done to reduce emissions."

and...

"Perfectly normal for the engine to do. In fact, its programmed to do that. F150's have a warm up period, normally my engine starts its idle at about 1600-1800 rpm and dies down to the normal 600 in about 30-45 seconds..."

Sure, the above-quoted responders have unknown credentials, but...

Having said that, anyone as ancient and decrepit as me will remember cars with carburetors. Anyone here ever try to start a carbureted engine in very cold weather? The proper way was to push the accelerator pedal to the floor once to "set the choke"; the engine would then start and idle MUCH faster than normal, until it reached a certain temp (usually around 20-30 seconds). You then tapped the gas pedal once to bring it down to an intermediate idle, then once again after another 20-30 seconds to bring it back to normal idle. If I can find the service manual I'll verify this, but IIRC the fast-idle setting on my 1968 Buick GS is 2400 RPM...

GENTLEMEN!!!!!! CARS HAVE BEEN DOING THIS FOREVER!!!!

My GS's engine has a little under 200,000 miles on it and seems none the worse for having started like this for the last 35 years...

[SILVERMARAUDER]

Thanks for all the responce but i am convinced that the start up rpm's are to high it needs to be lowered it knocks quick a second or 2 someting is wearing and it would not do it if the start up was lowered to 1500 to 1600 simple as that! lets try to solve this any ideas?

[RCSignals]

Mine never reaches 2000 rpm on start up.
I always thought it was designed into the car for the effect, and I doubt they added much RPM to what it normally would.
I don't get any "rod" knock either.

I agree with RF, above.

[MMdriver03]

If you lower your start-up RPMs to stop the knocking noises ,you just might be hidding a bigger problem.Take it to dealer and have them address the knocking. Personally I love hearing this bad boy come to life :up: