New motor on the way.

[Dave Johnson]

Hi all,

New motor on the way. :banana:

Cobra Iron Block 5.0L Stroker with hardblock
Forged 3.750 stroker Crankshaft
Forged H-beam Rods
Forged 8.5 to 1 pistons
APR main and head studs
Cobra oil pump and windage tray
CNC ported heads, custom blower cams
Cobra timing chains, guides and tensioners
Rear cool bypass
+More

[Glenn]

I am sure you are aware how much your're affecting the HP by going with a low compression engine. If you have forged internals, I do not know why you are going with low compression?

Glenn :burnout:

[O's Fan Rich]

I am sure you are aware how much your're affecting the HP by going with a low compression engine. If you have forged internals, I do not know why you are going with low compression?

Glenn :burnout:

Uh..oh..... Merc's gonna chime in...... I can FEEL it!!!:D

[Dave Johnson]

I am sure you are aware how much your're affecting the HP by going with a low compression engine. If you have forged internals, I do not know why you are going with low compression?

Glenn :burnout:


I’m sure there is some one on this site that can do a much better job then me, of explaining why someone would go to a lower compression ratio piston when using a supercharger. Anyone??????

[merc]

Uh..oh..... Merc's gonna chime in...... I can FEEL it!!!:D

Rich you are killing me..:D I got a couple of things to do but I will respond soon.

[RR|Suki]

not this again, there is nothing wrong with lowering compression, especially if your plans include more boost and more CID... when I went from 5.0 to 5.3 plus lower comp. I lost 3~4 psi on the same pulley and gained 25hp or so, and runs safer on 93 oct. went from 430 to 455

[ImpalaSlayer]

not this again, there is nothing wrong with lowering compression, especially if your plans include more boost and more CID... when I went from 5.0 to 5.3 plus lower comp. I lost 3~4 psi on the same pulley and gained 25hp or so, and runs safer on 93 oct. went from 430 to 455


some just dont understand man

[Zack]

Im beginning to believe lower compression is better. I cant get crap for timing into my Eaton car, mainly because of the heat it pumps out.
I was able to run about 4 more degrees of timing at the same boost level with my A/A Paxton Kit.

[RR|Suki]

Im beginning to believe lower compression is better. I cant get crap for timing into my Eaton car, mainly because of the heat it pumps out.
I was able to run about 4 more degrees of timing at the same boost level with my A/A Paxton Kit.

not to hijack but how much did you run with the A/A I run 16 that the top, but I think maybe I'm being a big baby.

[Joe Walsh]

I'm a proponent of keeping the CR up @ 9.5 -> 10:1....especially on a 281 CID engine pulling a 4400 LB sedan with an automatic transmission.

BUT, you are building a 323 CID engine and you have a Roots type blower, so you are not going to miss any low end torque lost due to the lowered CR.

AND, you can pour a TON of boost onto that built engine with a 8.5:1 CR.

Please keep us posted, THAT is going to be a BEAST!

[babbage]

Hi all,

New motor on the way. :banana:

Cobra Iron Block 5.0L Stroker with hardblock
Forged 3.750 stroker Crankshaft
Forged H-beam Rods
Forged 8.5 to 1 pistons
APR main and head studs
Cobra oil pump and windage tray
CNC ported heads, custom blower cams
Cobra timing chains, guides and tensioners
Rear cool bypass
+More


Where did you get the engine from? Care to share a price tag? I'm guessing 10K ish.

[merc]

Im beginning to believe lower compression is better. I cant get crap for timing into my Eaton car, mainly because of the heat it pumps out.
I was able to run about 4 more degrees of timing at the same boost level with my A/A Paxton Kit.

With that said I can't add anymore.

8:5.1 compression motor

1 Shermanator 03 Trilogy M112 S/C + Nitrous 470.0 1.453 6.537@104.03 10.301@130.82

[Marauderjack]

Hi all,

New motor on the way. :banana:

Cobra Iron Block 5.0L Stroker with hardblock
Forged 3.750 stroker Crankshaft
Forged H-beam Rods
Forged 8.5 to 1 pistons
APR main and head studs
Cobra oil pump and windage tray
CNC ported heads, custom blower cams
Cobra timing chains, guides and tensioners
Rear cool bypass
+More

Dave,

Is this still a street car??:confused:

If so, why the hardblock.....I suspect cooling will be a problem eventually!!:cool:

[jdando]

Looking good Dave! Give me a call when it shows up, I can help turn a wrench, run for parts or take pictures :)

[FordNut]

Im beginning to believe lower compression is better. I cant get crap for timing into my Eaton car, mainly because of the heat it pumps out.
I was able to run about 4 more degrees of timing at the same boost level with my A/A Paxton Kit.

What timing & boost are you running or trying to run?


not to hijack but how much did you run with the A/A I run 16 that the top, but I think maybe I'm being a big baby.

I run 16 deg @ 16-18 psi on 93 octane pump gas with 9.5:1 CR.


I'm a proponent of keeping the CR up @ 9.5 -> 10:1....especially on a 281 CID engine pulling a 4400 LB sedan with an automatic transmission.

BUT, you are building a 323 CID engine and you have a Roots type blower, so you are not going to miss any low end torque lost due to the lowered CR.

AND, you can pour a TON of boost onto that built engine with a 8.5:1 CR.

Please keep us posted, THAT is going to be a BEAST!

I agree on the 9.5:1 CR, but if I was planning to run boost AND nitrous, I'd probably go with 8.5:1.


Dave,

Is this still a street car??:confused:

If so, why the hardblock.....I suspect cooling will be a problem eventually!!:cool:

Not sure why a cast iron block would contribute to cooling problems. All Mustang GT's and '03-'04 Cobras have cast iron blocks.

[RR|Suki]

Not sure why a cast iron block would contribute to cooling problems. All Mustang GT's and '03-'04 Cobras have cast iron blocks.

I think he was referring to the "hard block" part which I assume OP is talking about block fill

[FordNut]

I think he was referring to the "hard block" part which I assume OP is talking about block fill

Sorry, I didn't see that part. That's what I'm gonna have to do with the old Teksid block I had big bore sleeves put in. Turns out the sleeves move around and cause head gaskets to leak. Fill it with epoxy and it'll be a great big bore racing block though.

[TooManyFords]

I heard that today somebody made 828HP at the crank and 700RWHP with a 9:1 4.6 motor...

Sounds like lower compression makes good power!

[marauder4.6DOHC]

what about lower compression and nitrous?

[merc]

I heard that today somebody made 828HP at the crank and 700RWHP with a 9:1 4.6 motor...

Sounds like lower compression makes good power!

Did you also hear that motor was in a Marauder?

[O's Fan Rich]

I heard that today somebody made 828HP at the crank and 700RWHP with a 9:1 4.6 motor...

Sounds like lower compression makes good power!

That scares me......:eek::eek::eek:

:burnout::burnout::burnout:

[Pops]

I heard that today somebody made 828HP at the crank and 700RWHP with a 9:1 4.6 motor...

Sounds like lower compression makes good power!

690 plus RWHP in the GM with 9.3 compression. No spray. 580 plus on the torque. 4.6 motor. 93 octane.

[Dave Johnson]

Where did you get the engine from? Care to share a price tag? I'm guessing 10K ish.

HiTech Motorsport in Elk River, MN. www.hitechmotorsport.com/ (http://www.hitechmotorsport.com/) they are doing all of the engine work and assemble of the long block. I will reinstall the engine then bring the MM to them for the tune. Total cost around 8K.

[O's Fan Rich]

690 plus RWHP in the GM with 9.3 compression. No spray. 580 plus on the torque. 4.6 motor. 93 octane.

Oh..... crap....... I'll lose.....:bows:

[Dave Johnson]

>>>Duplication<<<

[Dave Johnson]

Dave,

Is this still a street car??:confused:

If so, why the hardblock.....I suspect cooling will be a problem eventually!!:cool:

Yes this is still a street car.
The block is still a wet block. The hard blocking is installed is specific location in the block to give extra strength to the block. I have not had any cooling problems with this. This is the first one in the MM but not the first engine I have installed using this.

[Dave Johnson]

Looking good Dave! Give me a call when it shows up, I can help turn a wrench, run for parts or take pictures :)

Thanks, will let you know.

[TooManyFords]

Did you also hear that motor was in a Marauder?

Yes, I heard it was a Marauder...

[babbage]

HiTech Motorsport in Elk River, MN. www.hitechmotorsport.com/ (http://www.hitechmotorsport.com/) they are doing all of the engine work and assemble of the long block. I will reinstall the engine then bring the MM to them for the tune. Total cost around 8K.

Wow I think that's a stellar good price. I've heard great things about their cams and dynotunes. Thanks for sharing. I wish they weren't 19 hours away from me.

[Glenn]

For every 1 point lower compression you lose 4-5% power. In addition, the gas mileage is lower with lower compression. 1 1/2 points lower compression could cost you as much as 25-30+ HP even more if the HP is realy high. My $0.02.

Glenn :flamer: Let the flames begin -----------

[RR|Suki]

For every 1 point lower compression you lose 4-5% power. In addition, the gas mileage is lower with lower compression. 1 1/2 points lower compression could cost you as much as 25-30+ HP even more if the HP is realy high. My $0.02.

Glenn :flamer: Let the flames begin -----------

you can run more boost and more timing and NET more power and still have a nice safe pump gas tune... it's not like you CAN'T make more power with lower compression... we aren't talking N/A. If you are netting more power then you are netting more power plain and simple, it's not like people are lowering compression without aiming at adding boost/timing. If you lower comp same CID same pulley then certainly you'd lose power, but that's a moot argument here. :shake:

[TooManyFords]

you can run more boost and more timing and NET more power and still have a nice safe pump gas tune... it's not like you CAN'T make more power with lower compression... we aren't talking N/A. If you are netting more power then you are netting more power plain and simple, it's not like people are lowering compression without aiming at adding boost/timing. If you lower comp same CID same pulley then certainly you'd lose power, but that's a moot argument here. :shake:

Totally agree. When speaking with my tuner about the 1500+hp big block, the question of compression came up. He said tops of 9:1 and would prefer 8:1 with 30+ psi.

BTW, this is his car:

http://www.flpmotorsports.com/MUSTANG08/index.htm

Car is a 441 ci small block with 2200HP 8:1 compression.

@ 9.5:1 or better, there is just no margin for error when making big power. Glenn, ask all the big boys running 8's or faster and let me know what the consensus is.

[O's Fan Rich]

I'm shooting for 9:5 to 9:0 on my new one.

[John Nero]

my new motor is 10 to 1 we will see what king of # we will get after the break in miles - planning on hitting it with about 14lbs boost and 150 nos

[merc]

I see Marauder Wars at SSHS9. Bring on the big guns.

[Glenn]

Sorry, I just do not agree. There are far more cars on the track running high compression then low and that is a fact. Also, I am not talking about a mega motor running 1000+ HP, but a daily driver MM. There is a difference.

Glenn :flamer:

[crouse]

Looking good Dave! Give me a call when it shows up, I can help turn a wrench, run for parts or take pictures :)

I'm available to help also. Thanks, Curt

[TooManyFords]

I am not talking about a mega motor running 1000+ HP, but a daily driver MM. There is a difference.

There is? :confused:

[Dave Johnson]

I am sure you are aware how much your're affecting the HP by going with a low compression engine. If you have forged internals, I do not know why you are going with low compression?

Glenn :burnout:


For every 1 point lower compression you lose 4-5% power. In addition, the gas mileage is lower with lower compression. 1 1/2 points lower compression could cost you as much as 25-30+ HP even more if the HP is realy high. My $0.02.

Glenn :flamer: Let the flames begin -----------


Sorry, I just do not agree. There are far more cars on the track running high compression then low and that is a fact. Also, I am not talking about a mega motor running 1000+ HP, but a daily driver MM. There is a difference.

Glenn :flamer:

Most T/C or S/C high performance vehicles produced, running on pump gas (87 to 93) octane have a CR around 9:1. With some a little higher and little lower.


Most N/A high performance vehicles produced, running on pump gas (87 to 93) octane have a CR around 10:1 with some as high as 12.5:1 (Lamborghini Gallardo LP560) & 13:1 (BMW K1200S). In the 60’s there were a number of N/A high performance vehicles produced running 12:1 +. Then we had higher octane leaded gas. For those of you who are old enough to remember leaded gas.


The risk with running high CR in an engine on pump gas (87 to 93) octane is if the TUNE is not right, pre-ignition detonation can and does occur. Most high performance vehicles with high CR running at any track are not running on pump gas (87 to 93) octane. They are running on fuels with octane from 100 up to 130. Which are much safer and produce more HP for high CR engines. So you can’t look at just the CR when comparing.


You are correct in that lower CR by it self will produce less HP and if I was building a N/A engine I would probable go to 11:1 maybe even 12:1. With a S/C you can easily and safely make up the HP lose.


My goal is to build a S/C engine that can safely run on pump gas and produce 600 to 650 HP. That is the only reason for my CR choose. I am not looking to build an engine that is running on the edge. Because I will be driving this all summer long and it gets expensive running on the edge.


The Higher the CR the more important the fuel (octane) and the tune, tune, tune, tune is...


At least that is my opinion and you know what they say about that. Opinions are like A******s, everyone has one and no one thinks there's stink.

[Glenn]

I'll let my 40 less HP and quicker et speak for my 1/4 mile performance knowledge.

Glenn Ford :burnout: