Steering wheel control Interface.

[Pops]

OK guys you have been using these for a while. Post up the good and the bad on them. It does not matter if you bought them from me or somewhere else. What problems have you had with them and what did you do to get it working right.

[BAD MERC]

I have the SWI-ECL and it works sometimes. It is even hard-wired into the 2 wires on my Eclipse unit. I have less than perfect performance with it.

[DOOM]

I need one of those for my Z2.

[Krytin]

Sorry John - the one I got from you didn't work at all w/the Pioneer head unit.
All it would do when plugged in was turn the volume all the way down when no buttons on the wheel were depressed.
Email to OEM was a long time being answered and the initial response to my questions were not great.
It's been unplugged since the first day of the install waiting for me to get around to trying to get it going again.
The head unit works pretty good - a
little slow booting up and the touch screen becomes unresponsive after a volume change until the screen is changed w/selector on face panel or song/radio station is changed w/knob/selector. Then the screen works fine again.
The sound quality w/OEM speakers is outstanding and I swear the OEM sub is working!

One of these days I'll get around to the remote again.

[BirchMarauder]

I've got an alpine dvd head unit and used the alpine swi and custom set the functions to the steering wheel. wasn't hard at all. did it several years ago and use it every time I drive.

[Rocknthehawk]

Sorry John - the one I got from you didn't work at all w/the Pioneer head unit.
All it would do when plugged in was turn the volume all the way down when no buttons on the wheel were depressed.
Email to OEM was a long time being answered and the initial response to my questions were not great.
It's been unplugged since the first day of the install waiting for me to get around to trying to get it going again.
The head unit works pretty good - a
little slow booting up and the touch screen becomes unresponsive after a volume change until the screen is changed w/selector on face panel or song/radio station is changed w/knob/selector. Then the screen works fine again.
The sound quality w/OEM speakers is outstanding and I swear the OEM sub is working!

One of these days I'll get around to the remote again.

I had the same issue after installing Sean (sd6383)'s f90bt. I tried multiple times, with no luck. I haven't had a chance to try again.

[GreekGod]

The volume on steering wheel is intermittent. If I use the volume next to the screen, the steering wheel volume will then work, otherwise, it is hit or miss. The other controls (fan, temp, & next/mode, all work every time. :confused:

[magindat]

Sorry John - the one I got from you didn't work at all w/the Pioneer head unit.
All it would do when plugged in was turn the volume all the way down when no buttons on the wheel were depressed.
Email to OEM was a long time being answered and the initial response to my questions were not great.
It's been unplugged since the first day of the install waiting for me to get around to trying to get it going again.
The head unit works pretty good - a
little slow booting up and the touch screen becomes unresponsive after a volume change until the screen is changed w/selector on face panel or song/radio station is changed w/knob/selector. Then the screen works fine again.
The sound quality w/OEM speakers is outstanding and I swear the OEM sub is working!

One of these days I'll get around to the remote again.

That problem can cured with programming!

[magindat]

The volume on steering wheel is intermittent. If I use the volume next to the screen, the steering wheel volume will then work, otherwise, it is hit or miss. The other controls (fan, temp, & next/mode, all work every time. :confused:
I have this issue as well. Had it with both the the infrared version on my D1 and the plug in version on my F90. If I adjust the steering wheel up and down a few times, bumping top and bottom, it cures. I think there's clock spring or some such steering wheel issue messing with the voltage transmitted to teh interface.

BTW, I'm OK with this. I have no desire to tear into the steering wheel and airbag. Yes, I've been installing over 20 years and yes, I'm still scared sh!+less of airbags.

[Pops]

No need for anyone to be sorry here! I need to know if the product is working. Rich is there a way you can help? We had one here where the customer broke all the switches in the steering wheel. After the new switches went in it was fine. You can also call the store at 269 637 1994 and talk with Andy about it for help. He will be back from vacation on June 22nd.

John

[O's Fan Rich]

No real "problems"....
But... the controls are slower.

[magindat]

One of the tricks to programming the thing is to press the steering wheel control buttons quick.

So I (as most) would hold the button down for maybe a second. This actually sends multiple repeats of the command to the SWI. So one volume click ends up equalling like 10! As you step through the programming, the click is very quick. Just click. Like a 10th of a second. Move on to the next function. This is most easily accomplished with 2 people. One to click the SWI button, the other to click the steering wheel buttons. It will take two or three practice runs before you can get through it smoothly. The entire programming sequence goes down in about 10 seconds like this. This quick click method reduces the sluggish button response down to a practical "I know there's a translation happening here" miniscule (maybe 2 tenths if that) delay.

It also seems to help with what I mentioned above with the suspected voltage issue. Yes, my lazy big ol' butt needs to dig mines out and reporgram it so take my above issue with a grain.

For the guys above with the volume down issue, I think that's a set version programming issue. Follow the book to clear the SWI and make sure you program it version 3 (as I recall) for Ford. Also be sure you are only using the white wire and have cut no loops. As I recall, black for ground, red for hot and white for signal and that's it!

[GreekGod]

I have this issue as well. Had it with both the the infrared version on my D1 and the plug in version on my F90. If I adjust the steering wheel up and down a few times, bumping top and bottom, it cures. I think there's clock spring or some such steering wheel issue messing with the voltage transmitted to teh interface.

BTW, I'm OK with this. I have no desire to tear into the steering wheel and airbag. Yes, I've been installing over 20 years and yes, I'm still scared sh!+less of airbags.

It makes sense that there is some odd-ball issue with the volume control. Some of the time it won't work, holding down the switch (up or down) it will work, after a few seconds.

[Drewstang]

There is a small delay, but otherwise a fine product. I like mine.

[duhtroll]

I have this same exact problem. Steering wheel volume works when it "feels like it." Sometimes holding the button down for several seconds will initiate volume up - and it is usually volume up that has the problem. Volume down usually works but not always.


The volume on steering wheel is intermittent. If I use the volume next to the screen, the steering wheel volume will then work, otherwise, it is hit or miss. The other controls (fan, temp, & next/mode, all work every time. :confused:

[Peace2Peep]

I have this same exact problem. Steering wheel volume works when it "feels like it." Sometimes holding the button down for several seconds will initiate volume up - and it is usually volume up that has the problem. Volume down usually works but not always.



DITTO to the max!

[2,4shofast]

I have the SWI-ECL and it works sometimes. It is even hard-wired into the 2 wires on my Eclipse unit. I have less than perfect performance with it.


100% same issue here, I tested all the buttons before I put the head unit back in and it was good to go. Now I can rarely get the down volume and mode button to work! The next and volume buttons work pretty much every time unless I have my headlights on??? Im thinking I might have to pull it back out and reprogram it. I have had my battery unhooked several times during my on going stereo build but I would not so how it would lose programming for two buttons and not all four??? Oh well that is for another day :) I have to figure out my sub box first.

Bad Merc what model eclipse do you have?

[illwood]

One of the tricks to programming the thing is to press the steering wheel control buttons quick.

So I (as most) would hold the button down for maybe a second. This actually sends multiple repeats of the command to the SWI. So one volume click ends up equalling like 10! As you step through the programming, the click is very quick. Just click. Like a 10th of a second. Move on to the next function. This is most easily accomplished with 2 people. One to click the SWI button, the other to click the steering wheel buttons. It will take two or three practice runs before you can get through it smoothly. The entire programming sequence goes down in about 10 seconds like this. This quick click method reduces the sluggish button response down to a practical "I know there's a translation happening here" miniscule (maybe 2 tenths if that) delay.

It also seems to help with what I mentioned above with the suspected voltage issue. Yes, my lazy big ol' butt needs to dig mines out and reporgram it so take my above issue with a grain.

For the guys above with the volume down issue, I think that's a set version programming issue. Follow the book to clear the SWI and make sure you program it version 3 (as I recall) for Ford. Also be sure you are only using the white wire and have cut no loops. As I recall, black for ground, red for hot and white for signal and that's it!

Rich, do you find that with this method that the steering wheel controls are as responsive as with the original radio? My controls work fine (I bought the kit from John when I bought my AVIC-F90BT), but they are a little slow to respond. I wonder if this is the problem or if it is just a little slower going through the converter box.

Thanks!

[Pops]

I think they would be slower as they have to route thru the converter first.

[magindat]

They are just a little slower than stock. I promise reliability will increase if you reprogram with the 'quick click' method.
I've had ZERO complaints since I discovered this issue and method.

[magindat]

I think they would be slower as they have to route thru the converter first.

John,
If you guys program as I described and set customer expectations for the tiny delay, you should be good to go.
Rich

[2,4shofast]

They are just a little slower than stock. I promise reliability will increase if you reprogram with the 'quick click' method.
I've had ZERO complaints since I discovered this issue and method.

Rich I will try this the next time I take the dash apart...thanks for the info!:beer:

[Dr Caleb]

I have an AVIC-D3, and the SWI unit I bought from Pops. I've never been able to program it using their instructions. I try 3 or 4 times after I get my car out of storage in the spring, then give up and reach a few inches to use the knob or touch screen until it goes back into storage in the fall.

[fastblackmerc]

One of the tricks to programming the thing is to press the steering wheel control buttons quick.

So I (as most) would hold the button down for maybe a second. This actually sends multiple repeats of the command to the SWI. So one volume click ends up equalling like 10! As you step through the programming, the click is very quick. Just click. Like a 10th of a second. Move on to the next function. This is most easily accomplished with 2 people. One to click the SWI button, the other to click the steering wheel buttons. It will take two or three practice runs before you can get through it smoothly. The entire programming sequence goes down in about 10 seconds like this. This quick click method reduces the sluggish button response down to a practical "I know there's a translation happening here" miniscule (maybe 2 tenths if that) delay.

It also seems to help with what I mentioned above with the suspected voltage issue. Yes, my lazy big ol' butt needs to dig mines out and reporgram it so take my above issue with a grain.

For the guys above with the volume down issue, I think that's a set version programming issue. Follow the book to clear the SWI and make sure you program it version 3 (as I recall) for Ford. Also be sure you are only using the white wire and have cut no loops. As I recall, black for ground, red for hot and white for signal and that's it!

I'll have to try this method of programming since the programming method that comes with the switch or off the website doesn't work at all.

Got the SWI from Pops along with with remote and a used D2. The D2 and remote work flawlessly, couldn't be happier. I even bought another SWI, thinking mine was bad. Following the printed instructions didn't work.... tried it for 2 hrs at a time. Funny, there is a video on the website, the guy programs it real easy......

I'm going to try Rich's method as soon as I get home from this business trip.

[Pops]

Hope we are getting some of this cleared up. If it dont work when you guys buy it please let me know so I can help! I do not always have the answer either.