Metal Matrix Driveshaft question

[valleyman]

I just finished installing the metal matrix driveshaft and noticed that the splined end that slides into the transmission tail shaft looks different than the OEM part. The OEM shaft has a metal plate about the size of a saucer at the front universal joint. The metal matrix shaft doesn't have that metal plate. The difference between the two driveshafts is visible in the pictures posted by Logan in the "Reviews" section that SoulRiot told me about. Anyway, I was wondering what that metal plate was for on the OEM shaft? Why did the Ford engineers put it there? Does anybody know? Just curious.

[TAF]

I remember when mine was done, I was told it was some sort of "balancer" or "dampner". Believe me, you won't need it with the Dyno-Tech shaft.

[BillyGman]

Ditto......

[gonzo50]

Hey valleyman, the splined end that slides into the tailshaft, or the yoke, did you apply any type of lube on it or did you install it as is ? Also, did you use regular hand tools or an air impact wrench ? I,m doing mine tomorrow and want to make sure I can do it in my garage. Thanks. :D

[valleyman]

Gonzo50 - I didn't use any lube. The OEM shaft came out of the tail shaft of the transmission real clean and with only a slightly oily feel to it but no real visible lubricant. So, after looking at it I just slid the new driveshaft into the transmission with no additional lube on it at all. It slid in easily and it felt like it had adequate lubricant as I jockeyed it around to line up the bolt holes on the rear flange. If I had to do it again I'd do it the same way.
On the flange end I reused the original bolts, torqued to 83 ft/lbs and with a coating of red Loctite, but any brand of threadlocker will do as long as it's the stud-and-bearing grade.
The four bolts on the flange go back in a whole lot easier than they come out for two reasons: the first is because the factory put them in there using red threadlocker. The other reason is that the new driveshaft is cut just a little different than the OEM so your socket extension isn't rubbing against the driveshaft or the universal flange like it does on the OEM shaft when you try to loosen the bolts. I had to use a wobble extension to get the 12 point 12mm socket to seat all the way on the bolts to remove them: there just wasn't enough room for a standard 3" extension (or longer) to fit in there and get the socket firmly seated on the bolt head. I used nothing but hand tools with the back of the car up on ramps.
I'm no mechanic so if I could do this install, trust me, anyone who is clever enough to walk and chew gum at the same time can do it.

[BillyGman]

you don't need power tools either. Just a torque wrench.

[gonzo50]

Thanks valleyman, I appreciate the info, it really helps out. :up: Hopefully my install will go as easy as yours did.

[Murader03]

Since I had the gears changed in December, I guess my bolts were really stuck. Could not get the socket/wrench combo on far enough to not round of the bolts. So, I had to use a 12pt box wrench and a biggggggg hammer to beat'em loose. Same with putting everything back. Torque wrench/socket combo just wouldn't fit right. Beat the wrench with the hammer again. Don't think they'll ever come loose again!

[joflewbyu2]

Murader03, torque them to spec - 83 ft lbs just to be safe. i get a whirling sound at approxitmately 60-65 mph, anyone else?