Richy04
07-08-2009, 06:25 PM
Ok,
Today was 80 thousand degrees here in NJ. My wife comes in and says that the a/c stopped working and she smelled something burning.. So I checked the usual suspects, compressor,belt etc.. All was ok.. So I go into the car and the EATC is working fine but no blower motor action. I fire up the blower going direct with 12 volts and it is working perfectly.. So I yanked the BCM and it stunk of burned electronics. All of the dealers by me were closed (since this stuff only breaks on Sundays or after 5 o'clock.)
Anyway, I disassembled the unit and what I found saved me about 60 bucks. Although the pc board was slightly burned, I found a cold solder joint on the main dc line to the blower motor. Anyway, getting the BCM out is harder than the fix, just so you know. Its in a tight spot right behind the passenger side head. Two 8mm screws and the connector BTW. Remove it and you will achieve nirvana..
Once the unit is out, note that there are two phillips screws holding the board to the plastic housing, remove them and the board will slide out of the housing with little effort. look at the pics I've supplied, you will see where the connector meets the board, there will be a burn mark on the foil side of the board. The board is coated with a thin layer of clear, you must remove this before making any corrections with solder or it won't flow.
You must use a soldering gun like a Weller or a hi watt soldering tool since there is alot of meat there and a small iron can't heat the area. Well, begin by cleaning the area with a pick or other device you can scuff the clear and burned crap off of the board with. Try to work your way to the fresh copper and use electronics solder with flux. When you re-solder, make sure you really lay it down to get more solder down than the vender did. Thats why it failed to begin with. There is a nice big meaty pin into a nice and juicy foiled section of board and a micron of solder, FAIL!! Feel free to attack the other solder points but remember to remove the clear from those areas as well.
By beefing up the areas with solder, you will allow more current to flow and the board will stay cool and not burn up like it did, mine was cooked black in one spot, thats how hot it got. After you are done, clean the board and give it a shot of clear over the board to restore protection. Anyway, just reassemble the unit and reinstall it and you will enjoy nice air conditioning instead of your smelly armpits and those of your passengers.
http://i25.tinypic.com/206d8if.jpg
http://i28.tinypic.com/30avmz5.jpg
http://i32.tinypic.com/2h802hf.jpg
Today was 80 thousand degrees here in NJ. My wife comes in and says that the a/c stopped working and she smelled something burning.. So I checked the usual suspects, compressor,belt etc.. All was ok.. So I go into the car and the EATC is working fine but no blower motor action. I fire up the blower going direct with 12 volts and it is working perfectly.. So I yanked the BCM and it stunk of burned electronics. All of the dealers by me were closed (since this stuff only breaks on Sundays or after 5 o'clock.)
Anyway, I disassembled the unit and what I found saved me about 60 bucks. Although the pc board was slightly burned, I found a cold solder joint on the main dc line to the blower motor. Anyway, getting the BCM out is harder than the fix, just so you know. Its in a tight spot right behind the passenger side head. Two 8mm screws and the connector BTW. Remove it and you will achieve nirvana..
Once the unit is out, note that there are two phillips screws holding the board to the plastic housing, remove them and the board will slide out of the housing with little effort. look at the pics I've supplied, you will see where the connector meets the board, there will be a burn mark on the foil side of the board. The board is coated with a thin layer of clear, you must remove this before making any corrections with solder or it won't flow.
You must use a soldering gun like a Weller or a hi watt soldering tool since there is alot of meat there and a small iron can't heat the area. Well, begin by cleaning the area with a pick or other device you can scuff the clear and burned crap off of the board with. Try to work your way to the fresh copper and use electronics solder with flux. When you re-solder, make sure you really lay it down to get more solder down than the vender did. Thats why it failed to begin with. There is a nice big meaty pin into a nice and juicy foiled section of board and a micron of solder, FAIL!! Feel free to attack the other solder points but remember to remove the clear from those areas as well.
By beefing up the areas with solder, you will allow more current to flow and the board will stay cool and not burn up like it did, mine was cooked black in one spot, thats how hot it got. After you are done, clean the board and give it a shot of clear over the board to restore protection. Anyway, just reassemble the unit and reinstall it and you will enjoy nice air conditioning instead of your smelly armpits and those of your passengers.
http://i25.tinypic.com/206d8if.jpg
http://i28.tinypic.com/30avmz5.jpg
http://i32.tinypic.com/2h802hf.jpg