Swapping my transmission - bolts on TC

[babbage]

I'm installing a newer jmoded transmission with a 2800 stall triple disk 9.5 converter.

Got the old old trans out, took me 7 hours, never done it before. Going back together should be a lot better hopefully. Cross member was tough. Got it all out except for TC, I was thinking an impact gun to get the factory TC bots off from the flexplate?

How have you guys done this. :confused: They seem stubborn, I have car up on 4 jackstands, new stuff is ready to go in. I am probably going to borrow small compressor and gun.

Thanks.

[Adam12]

you will mostlikely have to heat the area arround the bolts to get them out they use a good locktite to hold them in

[FordNut]

I just use a 3/8 drive 6-point socket and 3/8 drive breaker bar. It fits between the oil pan and flexplate, a ratchet won't fit. But if you pulled the tranny with the converter still attached to the flexplate you probably messed up the pump seal, the tranny and converter are supposed to stay together.

[babbage]

you will mostlikely have to heat the area arround the bolts to get them out they use a good locktite to hold them in

Hey thanks, I tried with a propane torch but it wouldn't budge. I tightly wedged a prybar into the flywheel with a block of wood. (so tight that the engine lifted up about 1 inch) and still it walked on me.

Ended CUTTING off the bolts with a 7" cutoff disc and my drill.

[babbage]

I just use a 3/8 drive 6-point socket and 3/8 drive breaker bar. It fits between the oil pan and flexplate, a ratchet won't fit. But if you pulled the tranny with the converter still attached to the flexplate you probably messed up the pump seal, the tranny and converter are supposed to stay together.

This was a beotch of a job, but I did it all alone by myself with 4 jackstands....

How did you keep flywheel still? You are correct I did mess up the front seal on my OLD transmission. Now sitting in garage, not a big deal really. The 1-2 shift was always harsh. "New" Trans is very smooth and better compaired to my old one. I now have a 11.25 factory TC with the studs cut off. Probably hurt it's resale value!

Got it all back together properly. Got new ford gaskets and stainless bolts for exhaust. I did break small plastic clip for O2 connector. NBD.

I used medium thread locker on the bolts for TC. Darren and my local guy who I got the bolts and gaskets from said they never use lok-tite on the TC bolts....

Side Note: How is your 4R100 Fordnut?

Tell me about a good program for a 2800 PI Triple for N/A Brian - who did your tune for that? What is a good program to get. Thanks.


:burnout:

[FordNut]

This was a beotch of a job, but I did it all alone by myself with 4 jackstands....

How did you keep flywheel still? You are correct I did mess up the front seal on my OLD transmission. Now sitting in garage, not a big deal really. The 1-2 shift was always harsh. "New" Trans is very smooth and better compaired to my old one. I now have a 11.25 factory TC with the studs cut off. Probably hurt it's resale value!

Got it all back together properly. Got new ford gaskets and stainless bolts for exhaust. I did break small plastic clip for O2 connector. NBD.

I used medium thread locker on the bolts for TC. Darren and my local guy who I got the bolts and gaskets from said they never use lok-tite on the TC bolts....

Side Note: How is your 4R100 Fordnut?

Tell me about a good program for a 2800 PI Triple for N/A Brian - who did your tune for that? What is a good program to get. Thanks.


:burnout:
The key is to use a 6-point socket, the 12 point will usually round off the OEM self-locking nuts. Once they're rounded off you're hosed.

I put a socket & breaker bar on the crank balancer bolt.

I've never used thread locker on converter bolts.

Finally got the 4R100 working right. Still got some tuning to do on higher rpm shifting, just about got the low speed shifting like I want it.

I never got anybody to setup my shifting the way I liked it, so I did it myself. Most folks like Zack's shift/lockup schedule.

[ImpalaSlayer]

strange, mine came off ezpz :confused:

ps, if your convertor uses bolts instead of studs, iirc the bolt size is 3/8s 24.

[Commodore Crap]

on the driver's side of the engine block, there's a rubber plug thats about 3 inches in diameter. I pulled that out, and put my rachet and socket combo through there. You can get a lot more leverage from that angle, IMHO.
Just saying.
-ryan s.

[FordNut]

on the driver's side of the engine block, there's a rubber plug thats about 3 inches in diameter. I pulled that out, and put my rachet and socket combo through there. You can get a lot more leverage from that angle, IMHO.
Just saying.
-ryan s.

That's a PITA with headers.

[babbage]

Duh I feel like an idiot now that you say it. "18mm socket + breaker on the crank bolt" DUH! That would have helped a lot!

Ignorance #2 - The plug that's on the drivers side - geesh. It's like the converter bolts are what that is for! I knew it was there, never looked for it. ( I don't have headers yet)

Thanks for the tips guys! I'll use them next time I tear it apart. I swear going back together was a lot faster and easier. Even with my butcher job on the TC I'm proud I did it all (by myself) correctly and that all is well.

Anyone want to buy a factory 11.25 converter with the studs cut off?? $150 Shipped!

Anyway I'm REALLY happy with my newer transmission. Much better shape than the one I had (which had a harsh 1-2 shift even with soft line pressure) I do need to get a tune for the 2800 triple though.

[rayjay]

Congrats Babbage on tackling a job most people would farm out. :beer: (me included)

[babbage]

Congrats Babbage on tackling a job most people would farm out. :beer: (me included)

Hey Thanks Ray. I was thinking about it. I saved about $500 dollars (what I was quoted) I learned a lot, it took me total about 12 hours. Not bad that's about $41 dollars per hour. I think I'm ready for the drags now.

Happy Labor day everyone!

[juno]

Basically what DR said, but I use an offset 6 point box wrench with a piece of pipe over it for leverage. A little less flex then a ratchet.