Kook's headers/exhaust update: [Archive] - MercuryMarauder.net Forums

BillyGman

10-21-2003, 10:52 PM

I hope that I'm not placing this in the wrong forum, but if LOGAN wants to move this to another forum, then I'll understand perfectly........
Anyway, I just called Nick at Kook's yesterday to purchase the Kook's headers along w/their other exhaust goodies that Logan has on his car, but Nick strongly suggested that I wait three weeks since they will be updating their Marauder exhaust kit so that it will be a complete bolt on package w/no welding required. He told me that he has the headers, X-pipe, hi-flow cats, and mufflers for the Marauders all in stock right now, and that he can sell them to me now, but since he recommended that I wait to receive the upgraded and finished kit, then I've decided to take his advice. I guess he especially recommended this to me in particular since I made him aware of the fact that I very often turn my own wrenches instead of having someone else work on my car, however I don't do any welding myself. So I just thought that I'd post this here to let anyone who is considering buying the Kook's system know that their upgraded kit should be available as of the second week in November. I've also decided on the straight-thru design mufflers that Logan has chosen, however instead of the 14" ones that he has, I'll be using the 18" ones since they're not quite as loud (according to Nick).

vegasmarauder

10-21-2003, 11:51 PM

Thanks for the info, You (and Kook's) must have been reading my mind. There just isn't a good exhaust shop in LV that can do custom work.

BillyGman

10-22-2003, 12:15 AM

I hear ya....that's what I'd be faced with if I were to buy the kit as it is now. You would want to find a place that does MIG welding since that is the best because it holds up a long time. But not every place does that type of welding. You should also look for a place that does mandrel bending of the exhaust pipe. Unlike conventional pipe bending, mandrel bending leaves the pipe sections smooth and w/out the kinks that conventional bending leaves. And very few shops in my home state have the equipment required to mandrel bend the pipes.
But w/the new upgraded exhaust package that Kook's will be offering in a few more weeks, neither welding nor bending of any parts will be required. That will already be done for us(according to what Nick has told me).

TooManyFords

10-22-2003, 06:47 AM

Nick, if you're reading this thread...

What is the upgrade price from the components I already have to make it a bolt on kit? I've got to wait for the Stage 8 bolt kit to arrive (shipped yesterday) so I might as well wait 3 weeks if there is a minimal upgrade for components that make this a bolt on.

Well?

Ross

10-22-2003, 08:08 AM

Billy, that's the same problem I'm having. I've talked to a number of shops around town in order to find one I really feel comfortable with, whether I go with the Kook's or the Reinhart exhaust. Maybe I'm just paranoid, but I just don't get a good feeling about how cleanly and competently these guys can take out my old system and put on the new one. If it was just replacing a muffler, that's one thing. But especially after reading Logan's description of putting in the Kook's system, loosening motor mounts, taking out or moving aside other components, and putting it all back correctly, I want to know in advance that whoever I am using is a real pro. That's the one thing that has kept me from ordering one of these systems up to this point. Also, the shops I have talked to have not had mandrel benders. In case there is any additional bending that needs to be done when the install is taking place, I want the pipes mandrel bent. If I was in Florida, I could just drive to Dennis' shop and let him do it, but that's quite a drive from Texas!

SergntMac

10-22-2003, 08:57 AM

Billy...Bravo, and smart move. A pre-assembled exhaust pipe is key to an easy install.

Ross...Don't over think this install, whether it's Reinhart's or Kooks (after updating) it's all just a bolt in thingy. The A/C pump has to be unbolted from it's mount, but not disconnected from the system, and that's easier than you think. Whether you are keeping your OEM mufflers, or adding your own turbo mufflers, the install isn't much different from the customary muffler replacement. Keep the OEM tail pipe and tips, they are perfect for these systems.

I believe any exhaust monkey from Midas can install these systems, and I don't see a need for the mandrel bend machine, other than to qualify that shop as a custom fabricator who knows his s**t.

Best of luck to y'all, can't wait to hear (pun intended) more news.

BillyGman

10-22-2003, 10:56 AM

I hope that I'm not causing trouble here by mentioning that there will be an upgraded kit from Kook's in the future. I'm under the impression that there will be no additional charge for the new kit since Nick didn't mention that to me. But I'm also under the impression that the new kit will be much different than what you have purchased. Not different in the performance increase that it will deliver, nor in the final installed configuration. But different for the installer. The kit that you've purchased will require welding and maybe even some minor bending of pipe. Whereas the new kit will not require that. So if you know how to weld or have planned on bringing the car to someone, then there shouldn't be a problem w/what you have already. And besides that, if i were you, I wouldn't want to wait three more weeks before you install that exhaust. You'll have those stage 8 bolts by the end of this week if you've already ordered them. I know that because I ordered them from Thunder Racing just like you have, and they provided me w/a UPS tracking # and I went on the UPS website to track the package and it stated that the package willbe deliverd to my residence on Friday of this week. And I live further away from that place than you do. And if I had already purchased the exhaust, then I wouldn't want to wait until well into November to install it since by then it will be already getting close to the time when there will be a good chance of snow being on the ground. I'll admit in a certain way I was disappointed when Nick advised me to wait another three weeks for this exhaust system. I wanted to get this done now. And I wanted to also take my car to the track to test it out while the track is still open this year. But it doesn't look like I'll be able to do that now.
Sarge, yes I agree w/you that mandrel bending isn't an absolute neccessity. It is better than conventional bending is, but it isn't like we're building a 9 second drag car here. So if I was to need to have welding done then I might settle for conventional pipe bending. However MIG welding is a MUST in my book since it holds up much longer than other type of welds do.

Logan

10-22-2003, 11:45 AM

To do the "over the axle" pipes, there are 5 -70-90 degree bends. A conventional bender will kink the pipe in a horrible way. The over the axle pipes MUST be mandrel bent if you're intent is to NOT be a ghetto marauder owner.

In my install, I retained the stock 2.25" pipe from the rear of the mufflers to the exhaust tips. I do intend to replace it with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe, I just ain't had time. :)

TooManyFords

10-22-2003, 11:59 AM

And after I checked the tracking and the bolts will be here tomorrow, I can't wait either! I have a high school classmate that does custom exhaust and did my '65 Galaxie (that I just sold on eBay so I can buy a supercharger!) and he will finish where I leave off. It will be loud on the way over to his shop, but I'm a tough guy and can take it. <BG!>

I've already got slightly larger tips for the marauder to match the full length 2.5" pipes to the rear so I'm going to completely salvage the entire exhaust on the car and store it. I'm checking with my buddy now to see if I can get stainless for the complete system or not. If it's too mucho $$ then coated steel will work.

And yes, it's getting close to snow flying and the car >does< get stored on the lift for the winter.

Cheers!

TooManyFords

10-24-2003, 06:32 AM

I've posted some pictures in the gallery of the Magnaflow Performance tips I'm using to replace the factory ones.

I'm not sure, but when these are side-by-side with the factory ones, they are identical. Maybe Magnaflow makes the factory ones too?

Anyway, have a look if interested.

John

BillyGman

10-24-2003, 12:33 PM

for those pics. It looks like the only difference other than the Magnaflow name being on the top of the tips, is that the OEM tips are cut at a slightly greater angle at the end. Pretty close though. I guess what's desireable about the Magnaflow tips according to what I've been told is that the inlet openings are 2.5" rather than 2.25" like the OEM ones have.

TAF

10-24-2003, 12:39 PM

Originally posted by BillyGman
I guess what's desireable about the Magnaflow tips according to what I've been told is that the inlet openings are 2.5" rather than 2.25" like the OEM ones have.

*the following statement was made to me by the exhaust expert in the Southeastern U.S. that is doing some work on mine Monday...

"There's no advantage to the tailpipes being 2.5 vs. 2.25 at that point. The exhaust is cooled by then."

BillyGman

10-24-2003, 08:56 PM

I've heard that before also, and it sounds like it makes sense. I also previosly mentioned that in that "Stock Exhaust" thread that I started. I guess I just didn't want to put ToomanyFords on the defense. At one time I was thinking about doing the same thing that he's doing to his exhaust tailpipes. I guess it can't hurt, but weather it's worth the extra expense or not, perhaps that's debateable.

TooManyFords

10-24-2003, 09:02 PM

Don't worry about it! I bought those tips and had them on my '65 Galaxie for a year or so before I bought the Marauder. I had them on the shelf waiting for another project and now I've found one!

Besides, I have a pretty thick skin when it comes to messaging and forums, seeing as how I was one of the half dozen or so that invented this stuff. :)

Cheers!

BillyGman

10-24-2003, 09:10 PM

Cool......

TooManyFords

10-28-2003, 06:58 AM

It took me longer to go out and buy the sawzall (Black & Decker, 56.00, on sale at Lowes) and to get a set of metric wrenches from Sears (also on sale!)

1. My original goal was to keep the exhaust intact, but seeing as how the tail pipes are welded to the back of the mufflers, this was not possible. I cut the pipes about 1" behind so they could be reattached at a later date if necessary. Time: 10 minutes
Tip: if doing this alone, get some bungie cords and use them as your third hand while cutting stuff apart. I found it easier to pry the rubber holding clamps off while everything was still in one piece.

2. strap up the back of the mufflers and then hit the H-pipe connectors with an air wrench. I have to say it's so much nicer working on new cars than 20 year old rust buckets. Time: 10 minutes.

3. Remove the rear two O2 sensors from the pipe with a 22mm wrench.

4. Unsnap the forward O2 sensors so you can remove the cats from the exhaust manifold.

5. Bungie the rear of the cat tubes and hit the exhaust manifod bolts with a 15mm socket. I found the need for a wobble and a 12" 1/2" extension from the gun. Your mileage may vary. Time: 15 minutes.

What you should have is a pile of exhaust parts on the floor and two naked exhaust manifolds looking down at you. Counting the pepsi break, about an hour.

At this point, the phone rang and I had to run out of town to repair the Benton Co. Sheriff's Dept's computer systems in the control room. Hour there, 4 hours fixing a disconnected printer, and then back and I ran out of time yesterday.

Today, I will tackle removing the manifolds.

martyo

10-28-2003, 07:12 AM

Nice report TMF! Keep up the good work!!

TooManyFords

10-28-2003, 07:50 AM

After looking over where all the exhaust studs are, I can't help but think that the oil filter will have to come off to get at the lower front left bolts. It was already mentioned that the air conditioning compressor will have to move, and that the starter comes out to put the headers in, but I'm still surveying what I need for the bolts/studs.

For those keeping track of tools used; the exhaust manifold nuts are 13mm and the studs themselves need a 5mm 6-point socket to remove them. With the space tighter than I like, I'm off to Sears to get a set of 3/8 extensions (almost bought them yesterday on sale) and replace the 3/8 wobble I could have -swore- was in the tool box. You can never have too many wobbles! :D

I'll post a follow-up tonight before pool league.

Ross

10-28-2003, 08:12 AM

Thanks, TMF. The part about the oil filter coming off is a new twist to me. Logan, is this something y'all did, or how did you work around it? It's not a tragedy if the oil has to be drained and the filter removed, I just want to know in advance so I can have all of the stuff I need before I start when I get around to a project like this.

Logan

10-28-2003, 09:30 AM

We didn't have to remove the oil filter...

TooManyFords

10-29-2003, 09:15 AM

Day Three Dept:
Ok, I didn't ride the short bus to school. I just keep getting interrupted! Really!

Yesterday recap: After seeing Logan's msg, I did see a way to get that front left nut off the manifold without removing the oil filter. I snaked up a long 16" 3/8th extension between the rack -n-pinion and the aluminum lower crossmember.

Today. I now have the left manifold off. total time messing with the bolts etc was about an hour. Once this is off I did notice something new I'm sure Logan forgot to mention.. You have to pull the dip-stick tube. This is held on with two bolts to the block; one from below and one from above. It's tight, but can be worked out of the pan.

I did take Logan's advice and moved the steering linkage out of the way per his instructions because I could not test-fit the header with this in the way. What is not clear from his pictures or not is if he had to remove-reinstall the automatic transmission shift cable. (Logan?)

I also recommend getting a special 5mm-wobble socket 6-point as this makes removing the studs much easier for those going with the Stage-8 header bolt kit like I am. three more studs from the bottom and I'll be ready to install the left header.

Missing Wobble Dept.:
Remember the missing 14mm, wobble and extension? I found them. They were laying on the apron under the hood in front of the radiator. Always remember to put the tools away before lifting on the hoist!

Hedderus Interruptus Dept.
That day job thing? Yes, it is again requiring some attention so I have to put the tools down and wash up for a while. Pool league went well last night (26 points, masters league) and we won. I should have more work time this evening when I tackle the right side.

Logan

10-29-2003, 11:52 AM

My buddy was doing the driver side, but I don't remember him having to dink with the shifter cable.

Regarding the dipstick, you're right, it's gotta come out temporarily... Ooops. :)

TooManyFords

10-30-2003, 04:05 PM

Broken Parts Dept.
Part No 3W33-6754-AB, better known as the dipstick tube, does not like to be bent at the neck where it goes into the block. Trust me on this one.

After much frustration in trying to insert the tube with the header installed, I've now come to the conclusion that this part is like the starter and must be partially assembled before the header is bolted down. Tomorrow I'll take the header back off and wait for the tube to come in (Ray! I need another part!). Anyone wishing to make a contribution to my broken parts fund can use PayPal and send $$ to johns-ebay@frieltek.com.

Modified Bolts Dept.
When attaching the left header with the Stage 8 header bolts, you will find that that one on the top row needs to be customized before it will go into the hole. I had to hit it with a grinding wheel and put a nice 30 degree bevel on the tip so it would snake into position. Once done, I was able to tighten it.

Extra Parts Dept.
The small black bracket that holds the shifter cable is an extra part that you can throw away after you remove it. With the left side header in, the factory position of this cable has it rubbing the header in two spots. Not a good idea. By removing this bracket from the left frame rail and getting it off the cable, you can easily zip tie it to the lower brake like on the front crossmember thus clearing the header nicely. I've got pictures of this and will post them later tonight. I'm building a web page for all my Marauder mods so this one is going to have a lot of detailed pictures. john.frieltek.com/toomanyfords

While waiting for the tube I'll begin the right side tomorrow.

Other Project Dept.
Was not a total loss today as I got the whole front clip off the '78 F150 4x4. My friend and I will be pulling the motor for its rebuild next week.

That is all.

Constable

10-30-2003, 04:19 PM

I was speaking with Jimmy LaRocca today about the install he did on my car. I said, "Did the dipstick have to come out?" He replied in an overly sarcastic tone, "Oh yea... I almost forgot to tell you about that... that was a lot of fun." He didn't mention anything about modification of that bolt on the driver side. He did say that the install was done WITHOUT jacking the motor. He said that it was tight quarters when trying to snug down the bolts for the passenger side, but everything worked out.

BillyGman

10-31-2003, 01:24 AM

I'm all ears and eyes when it comes to this thread, and I hope that you continue to provide the details of every wrestling match that you'll engage in during the installation of these headers as well as w/the rest of the Kook's exhaust since I myself plan on purchasing and installing it soon on my Marauder.

Logan

10-31-2003, 01:35 PM

If he got the passenger side in without jacking the motor, he's a better man than most...

Ross

10-31-2003, 01:37 PM

Maybe he had a bigger hammer!:lol:

Constable

10-31-2003, 02:07 PM

He does have tiny hands... I'll give him that.

TooManyFords

11-05-2003, 08:59 AM

New Parts Dept.
Ray "TheDealer" came through and I got my replacement dipstick tube yesterday. Thanks Ray! Now, I need more instruction on how to get this in. Several of you have paid others to do the work, so I'm asking a favor of you; Will you please ask whoever did the dipstick install as to exactly how they did it? I don't want to bend and break another one. I ask because the header is already bolted to the block and I would prefer not to unbolt it if there is a different way.

Does the tube get a "custom bend"?

Do you remove the motor mounts and lift on the left side?

Do you have to slip in in while the header is loose?

Do you drink heavily and swear like a sailor? (pretty sure I've nailed this one already... didn't work.)

If anyone feels the need to communicate this directly, my cell # is 319-493-0139 cause I'll be in the garage.

Note to Kooks: Everyone could be spared this dilemma if the left header flange was done in two pieces and split where the tube hugs the block. Nuff said.

Passenger Header Dept.
There must be some special ford tool that Sears doesn't know about that magically gets that air conditioning compressor off easily. After a couple hours with a wrench and flipping it over every other turn I was able to get it loose from the block. Talk about custom bolts too. Never seen one of them before and probably won't ever again. Then there was the starter. That top bolt was tricky too, but finally yielded to a combination of 1/4" extensions and a ratchet.

With all the other components loosened up, I made fairly good headway in removing the studs with no problems. Test fitting the header did not require lifting the engine and I am fairly certain that I can get it in there without doing so. I am a little concerned as to how to tighten those starter bolts, but first things first.

Back to the garage...

Constable

11-05-2003, 10:53 AM

Dipstick tube was re-installed while header was loose. I know that's not what you wanted to hear, but maybe you can figure out another way.

TooManyFords

11-05-2003, 11:34 AM

A Better Mood Dept.
I decided to tackle the passenger header after posting the last msg and I'm glad I did! The only tricky part to getting that put on was getting the starter bolts snugged back down. Amazingly enough, with about 24" of 3/8 extension, a 1/4" 11mm socket on a 1/4" wobble on a 1/4-to-3/8 adapter and you can tighten every bolt on the bottom row from underneath. The top ones are all visible from above and should be a cinch to cinch down. All that's left is to mount the compressor.

Secret Parts Dept.
With any luck at all, I will be on my way to the exhaust shop tomorrow with the Secret Parts in hand! (tail wagging harder than ever now!!)

O2 Simulators Dept.
Has anyone played with any O2 Sensor simulators on the Marauder yet? Rather than weld in new bungs for the rear two sensors, I was thinking of replacing them with O2 simulators. I'm putting the MagnaFlow Hi-Flow cats on cause I am "environmentally friendly" but I just don't want to pop any codes while playing on the track.

More updates to come...

Constable

11-05-2003, 11:58 AM

I am only running a single set of Dynomax high-flow cats. I had new bungs welded on and installed the rear O2's in, basically, their stock location. I haven't thrown a code yet (I beat that car senseless). The MM runs great... you shouldn't need the simulators.

Logan

11-05-2003, 12:40 PM

Just weld in bungs and screw in your O2 sensors. They do actually serve a decent purpose, which basically is to let you know when your cats give up the ghost...

Besides, it takes 5 minutes to weld in a couple bungs, whoopie ding diddly... :)

Ross

11-05-2003, 01:08 PM

Does anyone know if the new and improved Kook's system will have bungs in place, or if they will still have to be welded?

Logan

11-05-2003, 04:47 PM

Don't know, but I'd doubt it.

TooManyFords

11-05-2003, 10:29 PM

Time to Celebrate Dept.
Yes, I just about broke my arm patting myself on the back. Finished and didn't have any left-over parts except for that black bracket that the trans shifter cable was attachd to. Should gain at least a tenth with that off.

The replacement tube complained until I removed the second from the front lower header bolt. After pulling that out, the tube went in and the header seated correctly on the other three lower bolts. 20 minutes later, I was done with the headers and doing the final adjustments with the compressor, the o2 bungs, and the serpentine belt.

There is no sound sweeter than the growl of a motor through open collectors. I felt 16 again. I wanted to take it out and run it on the highway to get a test run on the G-Timer. But, it was dark and I live in a neighborhood where I'm sure the cops would show up.

Tomorrow I take it in to have the rest of the system put in and I might get a couple days before it snows and then stored for the winter.

I've got lots of pictures and will write up my experiences and post them HERE (http://john.frieltek.com/toomanyfords)

Cheers!

Ross

11-06-2003, 08:10 AM

TMF, I want to be sure I understand about taking out that lower mounting bolt to get the tube in. It sounds like you didn't put that bolt back in and you're running with one bolt hole open, is that right? I probably misread this, so I want to be sure.

TooManyFords

11-06-2003, 09:12 AM

No, they are all in.

When I finally had all the studs out, I inserted 4 stage-8 bolts in the lower row leaving the top bolts out until the header was positioned. This held the two gaskets in place as well.

After removing the top bolts to remove the header, I could lift it off the bottom row without physically removing them from the head. They just remained in position. Turns out, that to fully insert the tube, I had to remove the #2 cylinder lower bolt because the tube wanted to be there momentarily as well.

After the tube was correctly seated, I then started the bolt into the head, positioned the header and then tightened all 8 bolts down.

I am one happy camper now.

As for all the other PM requests to do theirs too. No, this was about as much fun as a hobby wrench can handle in one lifetime. :D

John

Ross

11-06-2003, 09:35 AM

TMF, did you keep the factory steel gasket as Logan suggested, or did you go with one you bought yourself or one supplied by Kook's?

TooManyFords

11-06-2003, 09:38 AM

factory steel gaskets. Logan was correct and they should last longer than the car.

john

Constable

11-06-2003, 11:18 AM

Any RTV dabbed on those gaskets, or were they installed dry?

nick filippides

11-06-2003, 12:11 PM

Guys, The exhaust system will have the O2 bungs welded in place. We're making this system as simple as possible to install. Thanks to all those that have placed their orders. Keep em coming. Nick "Kook's Headers"

TooManyFords

11-06-2003, 04:55 PM

I installed them dry as they were that way from the factory. The gasket is a sandwich of three (I think) pieces of metal that compress to seal when tightened.

I get to drive it across town tomorrow morning with open collectors. Actually looking forward to it! :D

john

TooManyFords

11-08-2003, 07:05 PM

Wagging Tail Dept.
Wow! Got the entire system done and I can't believe how much more I got out of this mod. But what makes the tail wag so hard, you may ask?

Electric Header Cutouts!
http://john.frieltek.com/toomanyfords/marauder/cutouts/img/cutouts.jpg
That's right, with the flip of a switch I open the aluminum cutouts and dump straight out for maximum flow. Not only that, but they are adjustable so if I want to add just a little more noise, I just crack 'em a bit. Closed, they have a tight seal with no leaks!

Here is a closeup:
http://john.frieltek.com/toomanyfords/marauder/cutouts/img/cutout-closeup.jpg
Now, I've worked out a deal with my installer to team up to do complete Kooks installs with or without these snazzy cutouts. I'll have pricing available for those that want the custom install.

I have more pictures and I'll do a video tomorrow with audio so y'all can see how bad this setup really is!

Now, I gotta go out and chew up some rice! :D

john

Logan

11-08-2003, 07:18 PM

What'd I tell ya. You can't help but have a big hairy grin on your face when you bolt on 50hp and 35ft lbs. :D

martyo

11-08-2003, 09:46 PM

Originally posted by TooManyFords
Wagging Tail Dept.
Wow! Got the entire system done and I can't believe how much more I got out of this mod. But what makes the tail wag so hard, you may ask?

Electric Header Cutouts!

John: I like that "extra" touch!! How much were the electric cut outs? Where'd you locate the switch??

Also, can you give me better pics of how the cut outs are plumbed?

Details man! I want details!!

TripleTransAm

11-08-2003, 10:33 PM

Warning: electric cutouts have generally proven to be very troublesome. I don't know of one person who's managed to keep them operational for more than 12 months. Let me know if this one breaks that durability record...

BillyGman

11-08-2003, 11:03 PM

man that's somethin else Dude! I've never seen nor heard of cutouts that are electricly operated!! I guess you wouldn't want to drive around too many miles w/those things open since you would eventually throw a computer code due to the fact that w/them open you're bypassing the secondary O2 sensors. But that would be pretty cool for a quartermile blast, as long as they hold up w/out leaking.

TooManyFords

11-09-2003, 12:55 AM

Since this afternoon, the rear two O2 sensors have been disconnected because I opted not to have the bungs welded into the system. For obvious reasons (now..) when the cutouts are open, they wouldn't get used anyway.

75 miles later and the computer doesn't seem to care if they are plugged in or not. It hasn't thrown a code yet.

Maybe they are dummies anyway?!?

John

TooManyFords

11-09-2003, 01:15 AM

Let's see, I paid about $300 (+/-) for the cutouts. So, if we average this against what a S/C kit costs, I could put new ones on every year for the next 20 years...

So what if they only last one year with continuous use. I don't plan on using them daily. If I know I'm not going to use them for an extended period of time I can unbolt and unplug them and put the metal blocking plates back on the cutouts and put them on the shelf.

Everyone ->
As BillyG asked me in a PM, I'm toing to take my poor man's dyno (Escort G-Timer) out tomorrow morning and make a couple runs on a deserted black-top with and without them open and post the graphs of the two for comparison.

Cheers!

john

TooManyFords

11-09-2003, 01:19 AM

I didn't permanently mount the switch inside yet because I want to go through the radio shack catalog to see what options are available besides the one that came with the kit. Not that it is ugly or anything, it isn't. It has a lighted tip on the switch and everything, but I just want to be sure it is what I want. I'm even thinking the pedal movement switch on the dash would make a good one mounted by the shifter on the console.

Just trying not to booger up some piece of $200 plastic until I know exactly what I want and where.

As for the pictures, I took a bunch while we were doing the install so I'm sure there are ones that will show how it was all plumbed up.

This mod is definitely not going to fit the new Kooks kit as shipped.

John

BillyGman

11-09-2003, 01:37 AM

I'm surprised to hear that you haven't thrown a code while using the cutouts open, cuz Constable drove his MM w/open headers, and threw a code after 15 miles. As far as the durability issues of the cutouts, I'm thinking that it's the weather and being exposed to the elements that might cause problems. I'm guessing that TTA has heard this happening since he lives in Canada where the temperstures will obviously be frigid for a good part of the year. Not to mention snow. But if your car will not be driven in the snow, then perhaps that will not be a factor for you, especially if the car will be garaged for the winter.

Logan

11-09-2003, 07:18 AM

You'll throw a Rear O2 sensor code after a couple ignition cycles. Go ahead, ask me how I know... :)

Took me about 150 miles and 3 ignition cycles before it tripped.

TooManyFords

11-09-2003, 08:37 AM

Do I just disconnect the battery for 15 minutes to clear it? This is of course -after- I put the O2 Simulators in. :)

john

Logan

11-09-2003, 08:45 AM

Yep, that'll clear the code.

L

TooManyFords

11-09-2003, 12:11 PM

Per one of my previous msgs, I went out this morning to put the new exhaust system through the paces with my G-Timer PMD.

// New acronym alert! PMD = Poor Man's Dyno //

Remember, these runs listed are using the same settings in the PMD. All things being equal, the increases in performance are reletive to each other in different runs. Changes such as temperature etc obviously have an effect on times, but I'm trying to show major improvements based on the mods I've done to my MM.

Now that we've set the ground rules, here's the chart:

http://john.frieltek.com/toomanyfords/marauder/gtimer/img/GTimer1.jpg

Run #2
Flashed PCM by Dennis Reinhart at Ennis. No other mods. PCM was setup for the addition of 4.30 gears but they had not been installed yet.

Run #3
Installation of 4.30 Gears. Major improvements in the 1/4 Mile time.

Run #4
Same day as #3 but tried different power braking technics and determined that it was best just to punch it and go.

Run #5
Today, with new exhaust system in place and cutouts closed. .35 seconds quicker in the 1/4 and that was smoking the tires all the way through first gear! I just couldn't get it to hook up! As you can see in the times below 18th mile, I lost a bunch of time just spinning the tires but really made up for it on the top end.

Run #6
Today, with new exhaust system and cutouts wide open! Same issues as #5, but broke the 13 second barrier and the 100 MPH wall too! I just kept hoping no deer would jump out from the fields with the noise I was making on that black-top!!

I need the wider rims and some Nitto's to see if I can get this hooked up!

John

BillyGman

11-09-2003, 01:35 PM

thanks for posting those results, and also for your comments on the increased wheel spin w/the Kook's exhaust system installed. That's specifically what I was interested in since I do NOT want to lose any low-end power due to decreased back pressure by installing the Kook's headers. Based on your posted results, it looks like I will actually gain low end power as well as top end w/the Kook's exhaust. That's what Nick told me over the telephone, but I admit that I was a bit skeptical. But I guess he was being straight w/me. So I'm gonna be placing my order soon.:)

Logan

11-09-2003, 02:36 PM

How many times I gotta say that? Low end torque is greatly improved. ;)

TAF

11-09-2003, 02:40 PM

Originally posted by Logan
How many times I gotta say that? Low end torque is greatly improved. ;)

But...it aint 316.5 to the rear wheels :D

BillyGman

11-09-2003, 02:45 PM

I should've never doubted you either LOGAN......actually, ever since you told me that I had decided to buy the Kook's set-up(as you can see in my signature) but after receiving your advice three weeks ago, I called Nick to place my order, and he encouraged me to wait for the upgraded bolt-on kit. I called him last Thursday, and again on Friday, and both days Michele had informed me that Nick wasn't there because he left early since he wasn't feeling well. So I guess this has been a matter of, the longer that I have to wait before placing my order, then the more I begin to have questions about this whole thing weather those questions have been answered already or not. I plan on trying to reach Nick again on Monday.

Logan

11-09-2003, 02:52 PM

You ain't on the same dyno in the same climate. Dyno numbers are only meaningful in comparing runs made on the same dyno using the same SAE correction factors.

Nevermind you're running a custom dyno tuned program and are running pullies as well.

As it is, My kook's exhaust was worth a bunch more power than your shorties, mod for mod, so nanner nanner nanner.:banana:

Don't make me go bolt on some pullies just to prove my superior manliness! Don't do it!! I'm warning you!!! Don't!!! :D

TAF

11-09-2003, 03:04 PM

Originally posted by Logan
Don't make me go bolt on some pullies just to prove my superior manliness! Don't do it!! I'm warning you!!! Don't!!! :D

I Double-BIGDOG dare you!!! (that's when...if you don't...Jim "pays you a visit" on my behalf)...

BTW...why haven't you? Pullies are a "no-brainer"! We'll see my final numbers after Jerry gets his hands on it again next Saturday...it's O.K. that you're playing catch-up Logan...you and Marty make a...nice couple :lol:

And I'll take my shorties and my across the board power ANY day...;)

BillyGman

11-09-2003, 03:40 PM

always preferred long tube headers myself, cuz they're the real headers. So even though my Marauder still has the stock exhaust, I have to side w/Logan on this since I've had long tube headers on other cars. But for comparisant, Constable ran ET's within 2 tenths of a second to Marty's ET's at the same track on the same day, and Constable doesn't have the Stallion converter like Marty has, but rather the Long tube headers (Kook's) like Logan has. And judging by the results that I've obtained w/the Stallion converter w/my car, I think that Constable would get considerably more than a 2 tenth reduction on his ET's by installing the Stallion.