Sighting a rifle scope

[Leadfoot281]

I just bought myself a Remington Model 700 in 22-250 and need to get the scope dialed in. It was laser bore sighted but that's it.

This is my first peice with a scope and haven't any experiance dialing them in.

This has to be dead on at 200 yards. What's the best technique for doing this?

Link to my rifle.

http://www.remington.com/products/firearms/centerfire/model-700/model-700-sps-varmint.aspx

Link to scope. http://www.shopbushnell.com/detail/BSN+734124B

[ImpalaSlayer]

ive always done it from a bench

get some ammo and a bigger sized target. make sure the rifle is held steady on a rest of some sort and fired from the same spot every time. on the scope adjustment it should give you an indication oh how much 1 click makes at 100 yards. you will have to multiply or divide this amount depending on where you want it sited in (atleast thats what i do). you should notice immediately if you went the right way or not. another thing i do is get a shaprie or a pen and circle the previous shots every few rounds so you can keep track of your progess. its not really that hard.

[mgmsleeper]

I just bought myself a Winchester Model 700 in 22-250 and need to get the scope dialed in. It was laser bore sighted but that's it.

This is my first peice with a scope and haven't any experiance dialing them in.

This has to be dead on at 200 yards. What's the best technique for doing this?

Link to my rifle.

http://www.remington.com/products/firearms/centerfire/model-700/model-700-sps-varmint.aspx

Link to scope. http://www.shopbushnell.com/detail/BSN+734124B

IMO ...best way is the old fashion way.
-3different types of ammo
-plenty of target paper
-Tools for adjusting your scope
then get back 200yrds fire and look through your binoculars. fire and adjust to your likes

[MM2004]

I had a Savage 22-250 years ago and sighted mine in by using a rifle vise and sand bags to keep the vise from jumping around.

Spotters scope on a tripod next to me to see where the point of impact was and used a screwdriver to make adjustments for windage and elevation.

The 22-250 will shoot flat and straight with a helluva reach as long as you pay attention to how windy it is.

Hint: Look for any movement of grass/brush and trees when sighting in or shooting prey.

Good luck!

Mike.

[Phrog_gunner]

I don't see the point in tuning a scope to a vise unless you plan on shooting it from a vice? When you sight it in on your own, it will take into account your own personal abnormalities (the size/shape of your face, the way you rest your face on the stock which affects the angle you view through the scope, the way you hold the weapon etc.). If you sight it in in a vice, you sight it in dead on and then you try to shoot and your weapon is now affected by all of your personal eccentricities. But who knows, shooting animals isn't my forte, I'm only trained to hunt people.

[Mike Poore]

John, scope/accuracy/shooting terminology mostly talks about accuracy in Minutes of Angle (MOA) which translates to 1" of variance at 100 yards. That Mod 700 should print sub-MOA groups when shot from a rest using the same ammunition. Meaning it shoot groups of shots (usually of 3-5) within an area of less than 1" at 100 yds. Example: if it shoots .5 MOA, that's 1/2 inch at 100 yds or 1" at 200yds. I think your 'scope has 1/4" per click, but it will be noted on the ring under the cap(s).
If you shoot at the target center at 25yds, (a good starting place) and can hit the target anywhere, use that as a reference point, and turn the 'scope adjustments right-left or up-down to move the group toward the target center. That would be 16 clicks to move 1" at 25yds. Let's say you're 1"high and 2" to the left then you would move the adjustment knob 16clicks down and 32 clicks right to bring it to center. Now, move the target to 50yds and repeat. Only now, it will take 8 clicks to move 1" at 50 yards. center it and go to 100 yds. now 4 clicks will move the impact point 1". Go to 200yds and 2 clicks will move the impact point 1"
You need to consider bullet drop, and may have to raise the impact point when range increases. Get a range finder for shooting them coyotes, then you'll know how to aim at distance. 22-250 is a very flat shooting cartridge but you'll be surprised how much drop you'll be dealing with at long range. There are very good ballistic tables published and you can use those as a guide. I've lost your phone # but if you PM me, I'll give you a call, if you need further assistance.

[Leadfoot281]

John, scope/accuracy/shooting terminology mostly talks about accuracy in Minutes of Angle (MOA) which translates to 1" of variance at 100 yards. That Mod 700 should print sub-MOA groups when shot from a rest using the same ammunition. Meaning it shoot groups of shots (usually of 3-5) within an area of less than 1" at 100 yds. Example: if it shoots .5 MOA, that's 1/2 inch at 100 yds or 1" at 200yds. I think your 'scope has 1/4" per click, but it will be noted on the ring under the cap(s).
If you shoot at the target center at 25yds, (a good starting place) and can hit the target anywhere, use that as a reference point, and turn the 'scope adjustments right-left or up-down to move the group toward the target center. That would be 16 clicks to move 1" at 25yds. Let's say you're 1"high and 2" to the left then you would move the adjustment knob 16clicks down and 32 clicks right to bring it to center. Now, move the target to 50yds and repeat. Only now, it will take 8 clicks to move 1" at 50 yards. center it and go to 100 yds. now 4 clicks will move the impact point 1". Go to 200yds and 2 clicks will move the impact point 1"
You need to consider bullet drop, and may have to raise the impact point when range increases. Get a range finder for shooting them coyotes, then you'll know how to aim at distance. 22-250 is a very flat shooting cartridge but you'll be surprised how much drop you'll be dealing with at long range. There are very good ballistic tables published and you can use those as a guide. I've lost your phone # but if you PM me, I'll give you a call, if you need further assistance.

This is very similar to what a friend told me. Shoot at 25 yards 'til I'm dead on. From there I'll be 1" high at 100. From 200+ I ought to be dead on.

I haven't looked at the ammo tables yet and still need to understand what sort of drop I can expect.


I do have a bench, sand bags and range. What I DON'T have is a spotter, binoculars or a lot of ammo. After today there isn't any 22-250 left in Winona Minnesota.

Phrog. I hate to disagree with a Marine on shooting but I think I'd rather know the rifle is on and that I need to adjust to that. I've always adjusted to the firearm and not the other way around. If I know it has a bad tendency then I'll adjust that (my own technique) out of it, but only after I know the rifle is on.

[Joe Walsh]

I remember reading about how you can set up the scope so that your rifle will shoot 'dead on' at two different points/distances in its trajectory.

i.e. the scope's crosshairs sight along a flat line, while the bullet travels in an arcing trajectory. You can have the bullet's arc intersect the scope's flat line at two points/distances.
The rifle would shoot a little high between the two intersecting/'dead on' points, and shoot low before and after them.
How would you sight in the scope to accomplish this?

It's much easier to visualize with a diagram...but I can't find one to attach to my post...:o

Edit: I found something that gives the right idea:

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae326/JoeJWalsh/POIgraph.jpg

[MM2004]

I don't see the point in tuning a scope to a vise unless you plan on shooting it from a vice? When you sight it in on your own, it will take into account your own personal abnormalities (the size/shape of your face, the way you rest your face on the stock which affects the angle you view through the scope, the way you hold the weapon etc.). If you sight it in in a vice, you sight it in dead on and then you try to shoot and your weapon is now affected by all of your personal eccentricities. But who knows, shooting animals isn't my forte, I'm only trained to hunt people.

The vise I am referring to is designed to hold the rifle still while you actually shoot the rifle.

More like a rest that clamps onto the forearm to assist in holding it still while you shoot.

Maybe I should have explained it better.

Mike.

[Mike Poore]

The vise I am referring to is designed to hold the rifle still while you actually shoot the rifle.

More like a rest that clamps onto the forearm to assist in holding it still while you shoot.

Maybe I should have explained it better.

Mike.


Mike, we use a LedSled to shoot in the .375 H&H. :D

[Haggis]

I don't see the point in tuning a scope to a vise unless you plan on shooting it from a vice? When you sight it in on your own, it will take into account your own personal abnormalities (the size/shape of your face, the way you rest your face on the stock which affects the angle you view through the scope, the way you hold the weapon etc.). If you sight it in in a vice, you sight it in dead on and then you try to shoot and your weapon is now affected by all of your personal eccentricities. But who knows, shooting animals isn't my forte, I'm only trained to hunt people.

I agree with Phroggy, animals or humans, if it moves shoot it. Nothing better then iron sights and Ken-tuck-y windage.

[SC Cheesehead]

ive always done it from a bench

get some ammo and a bigger sized target. make sure the rifle is held steady on a rest of some sort and fired from the same spot every time. on the scope adjustment it should give you an indication oh how much 1 click makes at 100 yards. you will have to multiply or divide this amount depending on where you want it sited in (atleast thats what i do). you should notice immediately if you went the right way or not. another thing i do is get a shaprie or a pen and circle the previous shots every few rounds so you can keep track of your progess. its not really that hard.

Same method I use. Typically at 100 yds. Laser/bore sighting sholud at least get you on the paper, from there it's fine tuning.

[Marauderjack]

Best place to find any ammo!!!:bows:

http://www.ammoengine.com/find/ammo/.22-250_Remington

[Dereck]

Hi

Don't forget to let the barrel cool down between groups of three shots and to fire a "fouling" shot after cleaning.

Regards

Dereck

[Glockafella]

First of all you need to set a firm foundation by fitting the scope mounts well.


Put the scope mounts on the rifle first with the top brackets removed.
Tighten them into place using 1/2 turns at the time so that they sit solid and level as best as is possible, i.e., the downward pressure is as equal as possible. At this stage don't tighten them fully as you might want to slide them up and down a little.
Now take scope and place it on top of the open rifle mounts.

Make sure the windage and elevation turrets are one up and one to the right (these are the "turrets" on the sight. You use them later to make micro adjustments and in the field adjustments for wind)

Then put the top mount brackets on and tighten - Again use partial turns to tighten up.

Don't tighten fully at this stage, you may yet need to adjust a little.


Zero the scope


Lie in your normal shooting position and check that you can see through the scope well...

The distance between your eye and the rear scope lens is called Eye Relief.
Unlike cartoons you do not use a scope by pressing your eye up against the scope lens!

Once comfortable complete the screwing down of all mounts so that your set up is solid -

take care at this stage to keep the final turns partial and one by one to ensure pressure is equal.


Now it's time to zero the scope for shooting:



Load the rifle
Adopt your standard prone/lie down shooting position.

Prone is the best way as if you test shoot from standing or kneeling positions you waver more and it's harder to do a "true test".

Put some sort of target in place at say 20 yards - or whatever you think your "standard" range will be.
Using cross hair on target centre - Take 2-3 shots - Where do do they fall in relation to where you want them to? Right, left, up, down - dead on (lucky you!)

2-3 shots is best as it will average out shooter inaccuracy and give you a more "significant" feel for how far or close you are from true zero.


Now it's time to use the windage and elevation turrets to get it zeroed dead on. These are the 2 turrets on the top and right side of the scope.


Models vary, you'll probably screw a cap off and expose either a coin twist or finger knurled type of dial.
The top turret adjusts up and down. The right one left and right.
If you have your scopes instructions they should have a table with figures to tell you what each click adjustment means in terms of cross hair movement at "x" distance, e.g., 1/8 inch at 100 metres.

Use single click turns and each time take a new shot to gauge where the shot now falls - the dials basically adjust the cross hair position up-down and left-right.
It's trial and error basically but with testing you'll get to where you need to be and be able to trust that your shots will go where it says they will! This may take some time and a lot of shots. Be patient!

[Leadfoot281]

Thanks for the info guys!

I've found a ballistics calculator for my ammo. It requires a small download but it's actually pretty neat. It even takes into account temperature and wind.

http://www.winchester.com/LEARNING-CENTER/Pages/Ballistics-Calculator.aspx

I'm surprised that this caliber does better than my old Mosin-Nagant 7.62x54r ammo. Zeroing at 50 yards will give me just .4" drop at 200 yards. I suspect there will be a lot of dead coyotes as a result. :D

I've rounded up a coyote strike-team (reinforcements) from a local Jeep forum so I ought to pick up some calling/hunting tips from them. Just in case, I've also got extra 00 buck shot and a brick of .45 ACP for any close quarters combat we might experiance. :lol:

[ImpalaSlayer]

Thanks for the info guys!

I've found a ballistics calculator for my ammo. It requires a small download but it's actually pretty neat. It even takes into account temperature and wind.

http://www.winchester.com/LEARNING-CENTER/Pages/Ballistics-Calculator.aspx

I'm surprised that this caliber does better than my old Mosin-Nagant 7.62x54r ammo. Zeroing at 50 yards will give me just .4" drop at 200 yards. I suspect there will be a lot of dead coyotes as a result. :D

I've rounded up a coyote strike-team (reinforcements) from a local Jeep forum so I ought to pick up some calling/hunting tips from them. Just in case, I've also got extra 00 buck shot and a brick of .45 ACP for any close quarters combat we might experiance. :lol:

you need one of these for cqc

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/IMG_1000.jpg

[Dark_Knight7096]

I want a saiga 12, tho I can't have more than a 5rd mag, so my 870 with 7rd tube and bayo will do for me for now.

[ImpalaSlayer]

I want a saiga 12, tho I can't have more than a 5rd mag, so my 870 with 7rd tube and bayo will do for me for now.


its tons of fun dude, i havent gotten to play with it much as its been so damn cold.

[Phrog_gunner]

you need one of these for cqc

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/IMG_1000.jpg

THAT, for cqc?? :confused:

[ImpalaSlayer]

THAT, for cqc?? :confused:


i ment for coyotes, unless you have them in your house :lol:

[Phrog_gunner]

i ment for coyotes, unless you have them in your house :lol:

Ok, I was about to say I think you are confused about the defenition/application of cqc. :lol:

[ImpalaSlayer]

Ok, I was about to say I think you are confused about the defenition/application of cqc. :lol:


nope. plus thats in its stock form. it hasnt seen my mod money yet ;)

[Phrog_gunner]

nope. plus thats in its stock form. it hasnt seen my mod money yet ;)

Are you modding it for that? That barrel is WAY long. It's hard to beat a pistol indoors, unless you're a trained killer like me, and only need your bare hands. :hide:

[ImpalaSlayer]

Are you modding it for that? That barrel is WAY long. It's hard to beat a pistol indoors, unless you're a trained killer like me, and only need your bare hands. :hide:

no not for home defense, just want to make it a little more fun. and to make it 922r compliant you have to change 3 parts. its just on the back burner for now.

[Phrog_gunner]

no not for home defense, just want to make it a little more fun. and to make it 922r compliant you have to change 3 parts. its just on the back burner for now.

What is 922r? The only gun law I'm used to is "2 to the chest, 1 to the head"

[ImpalaSlayer]

What is 922r? The only gun law I'm used to is "2 to the chest, 1 to the head"


its som compliance law for when you mod foreign assault rifles.

[Phrog_gunner]

its som compliance law for when you mod foreign assault rifles.

Gotcha....I guess I dont have to worry since mine isnt modded

[Dark_Knight7096]

922r:
"It shall be unlawful for any person to assemble from imported parts any semiautomatic rifle or any shotgun which is identical to any rifle or shotgun prohibited from importation under section 925(d)(3) of this chapter as not being particularly suitable for or readily adaptable to sporting purposes except that this subsection shall not apply to--
(1) the assembly of any such rifle or shotgun for sale or distribution by a licensed manufacturer to the United States or any department or agency thereof or to any State or any department, agency, or political subdivision thereof; or
(2) the assembly of any such rifle or shotgun for the purposes of testing or experimentation authorized by the Attorney General."


For instance if you get a Saiga rifle or shotgun and want to convert it back to AK style you are forced to comply with 922r
"a) No person shall assemble a semiautomatic rifle or any shotgun using more than 10 of the imported parts listed in paragraph (c) of this section if the assembled firearm is prohibited from importation under section 925(d)(3) as not being particularly suitable for or readily adaptable to sporting purposes."


Complying with 922R
Now the trick is making your weapon compliant with the law. To do that, you will need to replace 3 to 6 of the existing parts with components made in the US.

Here are the parts that most owners use to achieve 922R compliance:
- Trigger
- Hammer
- Disconnector
- Buttstock
- Pistol grip
- Handguard (upper and lower handguards on an AK only count as 1 compliance part)
- Gas piston
- Magazine parts (Note: body, follower and floorplate each count as 1 compliance part).

You would have to swap out the parts to ensure that there were enough US made parts in the firearm to not be in violation. Some people choose to use the mag, mag spring, and floor plate as 3 items, some people choose to do all mods inside the firearm so they can legally use a mag of any origin to be able to do it.



all above legal mumbo jumbo i got from the following site
http://home.comcast.net/~navy87guy/home/922r.html

[ImpalaSlayer]

ive seen that before, pretty retarded.