Stock subwoofer speaker replacement in OEM enclosure possible?

[drj02]

Sorry everybody. I am sure this has been discussed many times over but can't find threads under all my searches so far. Looking to replace my OEM subwoofer speaker with aftermarket but installing in the OEM enclosure. I thought I read some time ago that there were 2 sub speakers made that would fit the factory enclosure with maybe only minor modification if I'm not mistaken. I don't mind adding a small mono amp if needed but was looking to keep as much of a stock appearance as possible. Any thoughts?

[fastblackmerc]

I took out the OEM unit and installed an Infinity Basslink. No teeth shattering bass but enough for me.

My install
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/Basslink/Basslinkontheshelf.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/Basslink/BasslinkSparetire.jpg

[drj02]

Thanks, I like that idea. Looks nice. How did you mount though? Did you have to drill I assume? I agree with you. Just looking for respectable, nice full quality sound, not trying to rattle the car apart. For example, I also have an '08 F150 that has the factory audiophile set-up. Super sweet!! Just perfect, not overkill but has plenty of lows, mids, and highs all from the factory. That's the kinda solution I am attepting to acomplish here. Thanks for your response, I appreciate it.

[justbob]

Just a simple swap to the 06 Escape audiophile would help you, especially if you hard wire an Ipod to drive it. Plug and play, and looks factory. Thats all I did besides elcheapo kicker 6x8 2 way's and any member who has had a sampling cannot believe how good it sounds now! The Ipod really helps drive a better sound!!

[FordNut]

I tried a couple of replacement drivers, best I found was Infinity.

[fastblackmerc]

Thanks, I like that idea. Looks nice. How did you mount though? Did you have to drill I assume? I agree with you. Just looking for respectable, nice full quality sound, not trying to rattle the car apart. For example, I also have an '08 F150 that has the factory audiophile set-up. Super sweet!! Just perfect, not overkill but has plenty of lows, mids, and highs all from the factory. That's the kinda solution I am attepting to acomplish here. Thanks for your response, I appreciate it.

It is secured to the shelf by screws. Have to be careful as the gas tank is located below. Was very careful drilling and used just the right length screws.

I'd also replace the anemic factory speakers and add tweeters to the front sail panels. A new headunit is also good. I have a Pioneer AVIC-D2.

[bawazir]

Just a simple swap to the 06 Escape audiophile would help you, especially if you hard wire an Ipod to drive it. Plug and play, and looks factory. Thats all I did besides elcheapo kicker 6x8 2 way's and any member who has had a sampling cannot believe how good it sounds now! The Ipod really helps drive a better sound!!


Just wondering if you do fit the Ford Escape cd player would your CD changer still work?

[SC Cheesehead]

Just wondering if you do fit the Ford Escape cd player would your CD changer still work?

I don't think so, but here's a link with some extensive info:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=55866&highlight=escape+CD

[justbob]

No, it won't, but you now have a 6 disc in dash as a replacement.

[hidperf]

For those of you who've used the basslink, do you happen to have the other legs that came with it that allow you to mount it vertically instead of horizontally? I threw mine out years ago when I put my basslink in another vehicle but now I need a pair.

[musclemerc]

Sorry everybody. I am sure this has been discussed many times over but can't find threads under all my searches so far. Looking to replace my OEM subwoofer speaker with aftermarket but installing in the OEM enclosure. I thought I read some time ago that there were 2 sub speakers made that would fit the factory enclosure with maybe only minor modification if I'm not mistaken. I don't mind adding a small mono amp if needed but was looking to keep as much of a stock appearance as possible. Any thoughts?
Go with the Pioneer 8" shallow sub Model#ts-s841d it will fit with a little tweaking and you can keep the stock amp and enclosure.

[fastblackmerc]

For those of you who've used the basslink, do you happen to have the other legs that came with it that allow you to mount it vertically instead of horizontally? I threw mine out years ago when I put my basslink in another vehicle but now I need a pair.
I'll check, but I think I threw them out.

[Paul]

Pioneer TS-SW841D is the full part #.

[4play]

hey I noticed when you hit preset 3 and 6 together it plays each speaker seperetly and sub 1 is hooked up and when it says sub 2 nothing, we have 2 outputs for subs?

[Local Boy]

Great info...

Thanks guys!

Aloha

[boatmangc]

OK, did the Pioneer 8" swap, much better bit will break up if I push it to higher (not blasting just higher) Has anyone put a relief hole in the stock box, or a port?
Do you think this will help?
I know, I should have bought a 5 channel amp and put a sub in a box.

[Dobs]

OK, did the Pioneer 8" swap, much better bit will break up if I push it to higher (not blasting just higher) Has anyone put a relief hole in the stock box, or a port?
Do you think this will help?
I know, I should have bought a 5 channel amp and put a sub in a box.

Got pictures?

[musclemerc]

Boatman, are you running a 4ohm driver? Mind has no breakup at all.

On another note I will be swapping to a JL Audio 6w3v3... 6-1/2" 4ohm sub in the next few weeks. I like the sub design better than the Pioneer and it's not a shallow mount and requires a fully sealed enclosure. It should be a perfect match for our enclosure, by design it should out perform the Pioneer 8" shallow sub

[Local Boy]

I did the 8' swap also....had some serious vibrations due to the increased base...just had to find those (vibration spots) two of them...and poof...excellent up-grade...Sounds awesome at full volume...


Thanks again musclemerc for the info...

Aloha

[boatmangc]

Musclemerc, It is the Pioneer Premier 8" shallow, I bought it from Pops for the MM, I am sure it is 4 Ohm.
Maybe I'll take the back seat out again and see what vibrates.

[Pops]

Its a 4 ohm. Look for rattles as the rear deck likes to flex!

[rayjay]

Look for rattles as the rear deck likes to flex!

+1, even with the OEM I had this problem. Removed the rear seat and taped down every wire. Problem solved.

[musclemerc]

I did the 8' swap also....had some serious vibrations due to the increased base...just had to find those (vibration spots) two of them...and poof...excellent up-grade...Sounds awesome at full volume...


Thanks again musclemerc for the info...

Aloha

Anytime.


Musclemerc, It is the Pioneer Premier 8" shallow, I bought it from Pops for the MM, I am sure it is 4 Ohm.
Maybe I'll take the back seat out again and see what vibrates.

Start tracking down the rattle and check the speaker polarity as well.

Good Luck with the repairs. :burnout:

[mnxtrik8r]

Earlier this spring I tried the JL Audio 6 inch sub.It is a real nice piece. It was almost a drop in. the edge of the magnet contacts the enclosure. I opted out because of time. I will probably install it this winter. I am going to try and heat that part of the enclosure and create more room. We'll see how it goes.

[boatmangc]

Update, found one speaker that needed a little vibration help. Also found that after about 1000 miles of pounding the sub was broken and sounded much better. GREAT UPGRADE,
Easy to do with a Rotozip. Took longer to uninstall/reinstall the assembly than it did to fit the bigger sub in the hole.
I had read that subs needed break in time but never really noticed it before.

[Jeronimojc]

Update, found one speaker that needed a little vibration help. Also found that after about 1000 miles of pounding the sub was broken and sounded much better. GREAT UPGRADE,
Easy to do with a Rotozip. Took longer to uninstall/reinstall the assembly than it did to fit the bigger sub in the hole.
I had read that subs needed break in time but never really noticed it before.


Update appreciated. Got pics?

[boatmangc]

Sorry no pics.
Very simple job, 4 fasteners to drop the sub after taking out the spare. if I remember they are 11mm.
Disconnect the wiring quick connects.
Remove the old sub
Lay the template from the new sub over the opening and mark what needs to be removed.
Cut out the plastic that is in the way.
Cut the wiring that was attatched to the old sub, pay attention to the polarity (it is marked on the original sub.
Splice the wiring from the new sub to the factory wires.
Screw the new sub in place.
Reconnect the wiring.
Reinstall the sub enclosure.
You will immediately notice a lot more bass but kinda crunchy at 1st.
Enjoy!
It will gradually sound better, it took about 1000 miles and then I noticed the sound cleans up.

[Fosters]

Sorry to bump up a month and a half old thread, any of you complete the JL Audio 6W3v3 install yet?

I haven't yanked the thing out yet, but will be tearing into it soon. Would the top mount depth problem be fixed with an MDF ring - plenty of those available cheap on ebay. Or is there not enough room on top of the box?

Any pics of the install?

Also, do the rest of the speakers run off the head unit? Or is there another amp for those? I have a head unit ready to go in, I might be buying new speakers though, as I don't really like the factory ford speakers (I have a collection of those in the garage... 8 out of mustangs, 4 out of an zx2, 6 out of my excursion, 8 out of two f150s, and soon to add 4 more...)

[boatmangc]

Not much room above the sub. I'm still not happy with the sub, I'm going to try and port the factory sub box, if that doesn't do it time to build a box.
There is no amp in the car other than the sub.
Pops got me the Pioneer Premier 75X4 and it made a big difference, that plus Infinity Kappa 6X9's in the rear deck.

[musclemerc]

I just ordered the JL sub and it will be going into my spare factor sub enclosure. I'm currently running the shallow Pioneer but the JL should perform better (it goes to a much lower frequency) I don't think you will have a problem with the mounting depth. I will post up a how to after I get mine installed in the next few weeks.



Sorry to bump up a month and a half old thread, any of you complete the JL Audio 6W3v3 install yet?

I haven't yanked the thing out yet, but will be tearing into it soon. Would the top mount depth problem be fixed with an MDF ring - plenty of those available cheap on ebay. Or is there not enough room on top of the box?

Any pics of the install?

Also, do the rest of the speakers run off the head unit? Or is there another amp for those? I have a head unit ready to go in, I might be buying new speakers though, as I don't really like the factory ford speakers (I have a collection of those in the garage... 8 out of mustangs, 4 out of an zx2, 6 out of my excursion, 8 out of two f150s, and soon to add 4 more...)

[Fosters]

I just ordered the JL sub and it will be going into my spare factor sub enclosure. I'm currently running the shallow Pioneer but the JL should perform better (it goes to a much lower frequency) I don't think you will have a problem with the mounting depth. I will post up a how to after I get mine installed in the next few weeks.

Sweet, thanks! Looking forward to it; this weekend looks like the head unit is going in, have everything I need finally. Should be the same thing as my excursion seeing as they use the same kit. There are only speakers in the front doors and rear deck, right? No 6 channel nightmare hopefully... :D

[Fosters]

Another bump.. Anyone ever try one of the Kicker Comp VT 6.5" shallow mount subs? On paper it looks even better than JL, meaning no mounting depth issues, and supposedly it goes a bit lower frequency wise than the JL... Not to mention it's cheaper too... Sensitivity is better on these than the JL, so that might make it a lil' louder using the wimpy stock amp. Only thing I can't find is the xmax on these.

http://www.kicker.com/comp_vt

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/CompareTo.aspx?g=520&cc=01&compareItems=01|2060CVT654&compareItems=01|1366W3V34

[J.bo]

I don't think you can go wrong with either. I'm looking to get the kicker sub.

Anyone know the specs of the factory sub amp?

[boatmangc]

I don't think you can go wrong with either. I'm looking to get the kicker sub.

Anyone know the specs of the factory sub amp?

Weak. It is supposedly rated at 100W but I have heard it is as low as 30W. I will be replacing the amp soon and then with the 8" Pioneer I think it will be sufficient for my needs, ie; crunchy metal/ sludge rock. I don't thing it will ever suffice for someone with hip-hop tastes.

[J.bo]

What about the specs on the stock head unit?

Do you know how to take the rear shelf tray off of the rear speakers? Do I need to take the back seat off and if so how do I take it off? I want to put dynomat and track down the rattle I hear from the rear shelf tray.

[rayjay]

What about the specs on the stock head unit?

Do you know how to take the rear shelf tray off of the rear speakers? Do I need to take the back seat off and if so how do I take it off? I want to put dynomat and track down the rattle I hear from the rear shelf tray.

You have to pull the rear seat. Pull the seat bottom up and out. Then you will be able to see what bolts have to be removed to take out the rear seat upper section. Then lift out the package tray. Sorry I can't be more specific than that. I did it 6 years ago when I bought mine as the rattles back there were driving me nuts. It turns out there are a lot of loose wires in the area. I taped them down using strong packing tape so they could not move. Problem solved and has not returned, even 6 years later. I put that Kicker 6.5" sub on my favorites for next season. My DTR is off the road for the winter. Yes winter, its here already :(

[J.bo]

Rayjay, thanks I will look into taking mine off because I have the same rattles.