Installed my Accufab 60mm - Thanks Impalaslayer

[babbage]

The TPS screws were tough to get out, used a socket and a Philips tip.

The factory gasket was a little bit tiny, snugged the bolts up and was then pushing it around with fingers trying for optimal alignment, but i snapped a part of it near the center. took it off - removed gasket.

Out came the ultra grey silicone gasket maker, thin layer all around. Got a tiny amount on the inside after tight,wiped it clean.

Really a very nice looking part, so shiny i can see my face in it. I did have to bend that bracket just a bit so the blade would totally close, linkage was just a hair to short.

[ImpalaSlayer]

now you know why i couldn't give you the screws fro the tps lol. one of my factory screws was actually bent a little and they both rounded out when removing.

[rayjay]

Did you get the voltage setup right Babbage? I don't think I gained any HP with mine, but its more responsive off the line for sure.

[DOOM]

so shiny i can see my face in it.

That's how the addiction starts. :coolman:

[RacerX]

Hey Eric! Nice! Did the plenum bores match up or will you port it at some point?

[babbage]

Did you get the voltage setup right Babbage? I don't think I gained any HP with mine, but its more responsive off the line for sure.

NO! I read something about this - but I didn't mess with it - what exactly needs to be done?

[babbage]

Hey Eric! Nice! Did the plenum bores match up or will you port it at some point?


Yes the factory plenum matched up very nicely, no need to go bigger on the plenum. (Thank God) :D

Sounds like you are going to have use the ultra-grey option too...

[rayjay]

NO! I read something about this - but I didn't mess with it - what exactly needs to be done?

The directions must be in the DTR, which is in storage. I think you can obtain the directions on line from Accufab. Its a minor adjustment for voltage. I did it with the help of a tech at my local FLM service dept.

[ctrlraven]

That's how the addiction starts. :coolman:
I bet you have mirrors above your bed also :lol:

[rayjay]

Babbage, I found the original thread:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=26728&highlight=accufab

[babbage]

Babbage, I found the original thread:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=26728&highlight=accufab


sweet thanks. Summary: with engine off but key on -- probe TPS with meter to make sure voltage reads between .98 and 1.0 volts. Loosen screws and twist TPS a tiny amount to adjust readings.




To adjust the TPS, please refer to the following:
Disconnect the ground cable from the battery.
Remove the TPS from the original throttle body and install it on the new Accufab throttle body. If new screws have been provided in the package from Accufab, use these screws (they are shorter). If not, reuse the original or stock screws.
Reconnect the TPS to the wire harness.
Reconnect the battery.
Now, the TPS needs to be adjusted to achieve the correct voltage at idle. Changes to the idle speed can ONLY be made by adjusting the TPS.
DO NOT ADJUST THE STOP SCREW ON THE THROTTLE BODY UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES. This screw has been pre-set at the factory to insure a proper air gap around the throttle blade in the fully closed position. If by chance this stop screw has been adjusted in the field, please call our TechLine for further assistance.
The TPS is connected to the main wire harness with three separate, color coded wires:

Gray & Red
Gray & White
Brown & White

The gray & red wire is the ground wire (could also be a black wire).
The gray & white wire provides the voltage information to the ECM (could also be a green wire).
The brown & white wire provides a 5-volt reference signal WITH THE KEY ON (could also be an orange wire).
If you have any problems identifying the different colors or if the wires are different colors from those described, check inside the plastic quick disconnect plug. The plug connection tangs should have an “A”, “B”, and “C” next to each tang.
A = gray & red wire
B = gray & white wire
C = brown & white wire
Because of the different suppliers of TPS’s, and the potential for different wire colors, you may need to “poke around” on the wires in order to determine the positive and negative leads. An easy way to take voltage readings is to stick a safety pin through the individual wires, and then make contact with your Volt Meter probes to the safety pins.
To check voltage, THE IGNITION KEY NEEDS TO BE IN THE ON POSITION BUT THE ENGINE MUST NOT BE RUNNING. With the positive (+) lead from your voltmeter, pierce the gray & white wire. With the negative (-) lead from your voltmeter, pierce the gray and red wire. The voltmeter should read no less than .98 volts nor more than 1.0 volts. If the voltage is too high, loosen, but do not remove, the two screws holding the TPS to the throttle body, and rotate the unit counter-clockwise, until the voltage is correct. Rotating the unit clockwise will increase the corresponding voltage. When the voltage is correct, retighten the two screws. The only adjustment is the “slop” between the inside diameter of the holes and the outside diameter of the screws, so we are dealing with just a few degrees of rotation.
The Ford ECM’s are very unforgiving when it comes to ANY engine modifications from stock. The addition of an Accufab throttle body should not have any negative effect on idle speed, off-idle performance (tip-in) or the RPM returning to idle speed, within a second or two, when the throttle is closed.
If on the other hand, modifications to the stock engine include additional supercharger boost with the use of different supercharger pulleys (particularly noticeable on supercharged 2003-2004 Mustang Cobra’s) or adding a “re-programming” chip or add-on computer module, the standard TPS voltage readings and other drivability issues may be noticeable, and could include an overly fast idle and a resistance of the ECM to “allow” the throttle to close properly, resulting in a delay between removing your foot from the gas pedal and the engine returning to idle.
These are not throttle body problems. The throttle body is a mechanical device with only one moving part. As long as the throttle body slams shut when you close the throttle (key off, engine not running), the throttle body is functioning correctly. Any other problem is associated with the ECM and the feedback it is receiving, either due to the increased boost at idle (more air supply) or the add-on computer chip sending incorrect (or unknown) data to the ECM.

[babbage]

That's how the addiction starts. :coolman:

Oh I'm already hooked! :beer: The accufab is the cleanest thing on my engine.

[dohc324ci]

One of the most regrettable parts of my project was I didnt go for more bling while I had it all out...LOL the place that did the install offer powder coating too...

babs~hows the throttle response on that?

[babbage]

One of the most regrettable parts of my project was I didnt go for more bling while I had it all out...LOL the place that did the install offer powder coating too...

babs~hows the throttle response on that?

it seems to have some more teeth! I floored it today a couple times...
the stab works better than the gradual roll into it!

spring feels tight... impalaslayer must not have floored it much - lol





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[rayjay]

It certainly has a different feel to the foot, but you won't notice it after a short time. Enjoy :beer:

[RacerX]

I had to get used to the stronger spring on mine. You should have seen my oldest try and practice driving with it! :eek: :D

[babbage]

It's different. I can easily push 70% of the pedal down. The last 30% or so seems to take a lot more pressure (perhaps 1 pound) to go the rest of the way down.

Still haven't checked the voltage, but will.