160,000 cant be the end!!!!

[BLACKDOGG2003]

i got my Merc when it had 30k miles..over the years ive done all i can do to keep up on tune-ups and oil changes. but a couple months ago when i just crossed into the 160K mile mark...the Merc just gave out on me. ( while i was riding on the interstate ) all of a sudden i couldn't accelerate over 50 mph then my engine began to shake violently so i had to coast off the interstate and ended up parking right across the street from the "700 club" of all places. i was like is this a sign!...anyway im typing this message hoping that someone who has had a similar experience could give a few tips in what the problem was for them, and how the resolved it?.....( note: i had my car put on the machine at meineke and they guy told me it was my coils..but after a weeks time and finally replacing them..the Merc was still doing the same thing!..had to get it towed back home....200 buck on service and 200 buk to get it towed and my car is sitting in the driveway in the same state it was in in the first place!....im starting to think a "good honest mechanic" is a myth that lives in a land with unicorns and tooth fairies....CAN SOMEBODY HELP ME?!

[SpartaPerformance]

How many coils did you need? 200 for all 4 is way to cheap, they entire coil, boot and connector list for $80 each if I remember correctly. It's recommended that the entire unit is replaced.

[Blk Mamba]

We need a lot more info than you have given, granted mine only has 87,xxx miles, but I replaced the coils, about 2500 miles ago, did wonders for mine. Here come the stupid questions, fuel filter, air filter, are you sure it's engine related and not a trans. issue., from what you have said I would think it is a restriction of air, or fuel. When my coils started to go it would have a miss under a light load, (going up a slight grade at 20-30 mph, and applying slight acceleration, it would start to miss).

My accel coils were $26 @ at Summit Racing, thats a little over $200, the previous poster said 4 coils, is this a four valve, or not.

[BLACKDOGG2003]

he replaced only four. the cost is so cheap bcuz i raised hell, and they only charged me for service. these guys kept my car for a week. and they kept tellin me every day " that they think they got the issue fixed" and that it would should only take a few hours

[BLACKDOGG2003]

well at first i thought it could be my o2 sensors so i went and purchased four of them and told them i wanted them installed, they said after putting my car on the machine that it definitely wasn't the o2 sensors, but it was my coils

[Blk Mamba]

I'm no genius, but I would still think it would more apt to be a fuel restriction.

[JimP]

If you have a spare mass air meter, or someone could lend you one try it out. I have seen what you described on a Mach 1 recently, there were no codes either. Just a thought. Try tapping your mass air meter while car is running if it runs. Also have a look at your plugs, are any of them arcing. Check the porcelin for black coloured cracks

Keep us posted.

[ntd]

I personally would take it to the dealer there is a lot more information needed to properly diagnoses this problem, Dealerships have tools most shops don't. 1st I would load test the coils. If all OK then I would ask them to install the VDR(AKA- flight recorder) looking more towards the engine pids.

[FordNut]

Agreed, really not enough information. Some possibilities... fuel filter replacement, MAF sensor cleaning, fuel pump going bad, the rest of the coils bad, spark plugs, crank position sensor,,,,

[F8LBITEva]

Where in VA are you? I work at a Lincoln/Mercury dealer I can get you OE parts for cheap. Did they not replace the plugs too? Whenever a coil goes we replace the spark plug at the same time because they usually get fouled. The dealer can pin point the cylinder that is not firing properly instead of just throwing parts at it. Is it smoking? We also see alot of timing tensioner arms and guide problems that could contribute to the bucking and running rough. Good luck, let me know if I can help.

[BLACKDOGG2003]

hey i really appreciate all the input it really is helpful. I live in south eastern va 757...hey im all ears in regards to them parts... i just want to get the merc back on that road..i cant stand lookin at my car ride the bench like this

[BLACKDOGG2003]

oh and yea..they replaced my plugs..he showed me the old ones and they looked pretty bad..black soot all on the ends....and after a few tries i can get it to start....and it will run ( very ruff ) if i keep my foot on the gas. but if i take my foot off the gas the engine will cut of almost immediately ..also the smoke gets very heavy while in run the engine

[Motorhead350]

Have you ever replaced the cat converters? They could be clogged if you're saying it won't go past 50. I know a member on here that couldn't go over 80 due to this issue.

[BLACKDOGG2003]

no i havent..and actually the cats were my first thought..until i found out how much them babies cost, so i figured id try the o2 sensors..ive had a few people tell me theat it might be my cats....just dont have 3k to be tossing around like that

[Blk Mamba]

Yes, this is also a possibility, another form of restriction, just after the burn, not before.

[Blk Mamba]

$3,000 I'd sell mine first, where did you get that price, but because of the crossover, you would think that the problem, would be both, seems kind of unlikely both at the same time, have you experienced loss of power up until now.

[musclemerc]

I'm willing to bet you it's the Cat's! The symptoms you describe if that of a collapsed catalyst. Especially with the miles on the car!

[Mr. Man]

And you are experiencing no codes? The check engine idiot lite in the dash is not lit?

[LeoVampire]

These cars are too safisticated to not pop a code with a problem like that.

Did you just put some gas in it reciently or that day? Put the wrong octaine in?

[Brian H]

I'd go with the cats also 160,xxx is alot for oem cats. once you get it started see what kinda pressure you have coming outta the tail pipes/tips

[LeoVampire]

I'd go with the cats also 160,xxx is alot for oem cats. once you get it started see what kinda pressure you have coming outta the tail pipes/tips

Disconnect the H-Pipe or x-pipe what ever you have

And then check for flow out each side other wise you will have a hard time checking at the tail pipe's.

[Zack]

Put a fuel pump in it and report back

[fastblackmerc]

Coils... spark plugs... converters... O2 sensors... fuel pumps...

First you need someone to properly diagnose the problem......

Eventually you'll fix it by throwing parts at it.

But it will cost alot of time and money.

Ask your friends and neighbors for recommendations for repair places or your local Ford or Lincoln Mercury dealer.

Or we could continue the long distance, sight unseen diags.....

[Pat]

As far as CAT's go a good exhaust shop can test them for you while on the car for a small fee. They did mine because I thought I had a bad CAT(s). They drill a small hole in the exhause pipe before the CAT, insert a test probe and measure the pressure.

Reading your first post it would seem you have a definite hardware failure. COPS/PLUGs are now ruled out. Fuel system could be your next area to check, Get a shop or dealer that can test the fuel pressure. Compression test would be my next area, a cam follower may have gone sour hanging up a valve.

We have to assume you have changed the fuel filter and air filter on a regular basis.

When you go to a dealer for a diagnostic, ask questions about what they test for and see if they can give you a print out from the machine (if possible). The service usually costs about $70.00.

An important vacumn line may have come undone or worn through. Usually on the side you don't see.

[Dereck]

Hi Guys

No need to remove the exhaust to check for a blockage or to drill holes in it simply hook up a vacuum gauge to the intake and start the car, you should get 18 - 20 in/hg at iidle now open the throttle to 2500 - 3000rpm and hold, the vacuum will drop slightly as the throttle is opened then rise and hold steady, if the vacuum drops off and doesn't rise when the throttle is closed then it is almost a certainty the exhaust is blocked, click here (http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_200108/ai_n8978956/) for more vacuum guage diagnostics.

Has anyone considered a bad fuel pressure regulator? Anyone done a fuel pressure check? Sooty plugs and smoke would appear to indicate overfuelling, I had a fuel pressure regulator go tits up on an old Jag of mine and used 8 gallons of fuel in 25 miles.

Regards

Dereck

[Marauderjack]

Put a fuel pump in it and report back

^^^^+10^^^^:beer:

[guspech750]

if i take my foot off the gas the engine will cut of almost immediately ..also the smoke gets very heavy while in run the engine
My old beater car Chevy Beretta had a similar issue. But I had coolant pouring into the cylinders due to a cracked head.

[Zack]

Not the converters.
You cant just be driving along and out of the blue the converters decide to plug up. :rolleyes:

Put a fuel pump in it. Even if its not the fuel pump, you will have a LOT of piece of mind knowing its new. Its near the end of its life anyways.
Check for cracked corrugated tubing while you are in there. If the tubing sprung a leak, that would create the symptoms you described.
Good luck.

[Green96]

oh and yea..they replaced my plugs..he showed me the old ones and they looked pretty bad..black soot all on the ends....and after a few tries i can get it to start....and it will run ( very ruff ) if i keep my foot on the gas. but if i take my foot off the gas the engine will cut of almost immediately ..also the smoke gets very heavy while in run the engine

If it is smoking when you hit the gas I doubt it is the fuel pump. Sounds more like a bad MAF to me. I am still with Zack, 160K is a lot of miles on a fuel pump so it is worth doing. I just don't think that is what is really wrong in this case.

[Black_Out]

I agree that it sounds like a bad fuel pump or something in the fuel delivery system.

The engine is starving for gas, if you have to keep your foot on the peddle to keep it running. I'd say replace the fuel pump & filter and check all your lines and see if that doesn't help some.

[musclemerc]

Here is and experiencer I had with a 96 Tbird. Driving on the interstate @ 75mph I noticed I was loosing power so I keep putting my foot in it and it keeps slowing down. The motor was still running but I had no power, so when I get into the emergency lane and let off the gas the car instantly shut off. I crank it, it starts, I let off the gas and off it goes. So I get towed home and i'm fishing and throwing money at parts (injectors, fuel pump, fuel cut off switch, etc.) and finally I just give up and decide to pull the motor (thinking I spun a bearing). Something drove me to start under the car to disconnect everything so I pull the h pipe and when it hits the ground the interior of the cats fall out. So i'm like naaww! Go crank the car and it starts with no petal effort. Got to the junkyard and picked up a used h pipe and all was well! Not saying this is the case here but there's no reason to overlook the cats either. I hope this helps! :burnout:

[stevemarauder]

Fuel pump i agree with zach probably has too low of fuel volume pressure may be there but volume is too low worked at a Lincoln Mercury dealer as a mechanic for 12 years ASE Certified....

[Black_Out]

Fuel pump i agree with zach probably has too low of fuel volume pressure may be there but volume is too low worked at a Lincoln Mercury dealer as a mechanic for 12 years ASE Certified....

Punctuation is your friend :rolleyes:

[mrjones]

Have you tried a new fuel filter? This sounds a lot like a clogged filter. I had the same problem on a trip. Stopped at a crappy little Texaco station that was getting a fuel dump at the time. Wasn't long after that 50mph was the best I could do. That's a pretty cheap thing to test. If it still has the original filter, it's time anyway.

[slickster]

if ur not to far i know a phenomenal lincoln mercury tech in lynchburg 50mi from roanoake

[Richy04]

Dude, you are throwing good money after bad.

Check the basics first.. Ohm out the coils, change all of the plugs, look for arcing/tracking.

Check the rubber bellows between the MAF and intake for leaks. Look for pending codes as well as active.

Pull the o2's from before the cats and see if it runs better without them threaded in, this will help relieve the back pressure from possible clogged cats. You will throw a code with them out but you may see a difference. Some guys take a known good car and take a pressure reading from there, then you can match that up to your reading on the first o2's bungs on yours. Higher pressure than the known good vehicle, usually clogged cats..

But!!!

If you are not getting a code for bad cats though, forget what I said above.. The first o2's take a reading and its matched against the 2nd set after the cats looking for a good scrub from the cats.. If the scrub it light, the ECM knows the cats are bad. The ECU is looking for different numbers from each set of O2's so it knows the cat is doing its job..

No code.. Cats are usually good. The O2's will definitely pass the numbers to the ECU..

I just realized you are not talking about your MM, but the idea still stands. I don't know much about the 96 as far as the layout goes, but the theory on the above should still work, but you may have a different o2/cat setup..