Need some advice please

[LeoVampire]

I did a stereo and speaker change over on a 2007 Ford Taurus and noticed as the volume gets turned up it seems to fade in and out a bit sound wise.

Would that be the factory Amp in the car saying it can't handle what was done or there needs to be a better power source running things in the car?

Figured you would be the best to ask for advice so I am @ your mercy for some wisdom!

Thanks
Dave

[PonyUP]

It sounds like a power issue, which would be the amp, it could also be a loose connection. Audio speakers with a loose connection is fade in and out as well
________
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[Spectragod]

What Impedience are the speakers you used for the replacement? Factory is 3.2 Ohms, so, if you used say 8 Ohm speaker, your amp will be working harder to achieve the same volume.

I will assume that you are running off the head units amp and not a larger 4 channel mounted in the trunk?

[musclemerc]

What's the impedance of the new speaker's? Sound's like you are dropping the load too low...

[musclemerc]

What Impedience are the speakers you used for the replacement? Factory is 3.2 Ohms, so, if you used say 8 Ohm speaker, your amp will be working harder to achieve the same volume.

I will assume that you are running off the head units amp and not a larger 4 channel mounted in the trunk?

It would actually work harder with a lower OHM's load. Most 8~OHM stuff is home audio.

[Spectragod]

It would actually work harder with a lower OHM's load. Most 8~OHM stuff is home audio.

Most, not all is home audio.

The lower the impedience, the more efficient the speaker, meaning... less power to achieve the same output.

Going from a 4 Ohm speaker to a 2 Ohm speaker is equivelant to a 3 db gain, the same effect as doubling your output power of said amplifier. Then again, I don't know much about audio....:rolleyes:

[LeoVampire]

It sounds like a power issue, which would be the amp, it could also be a loose connection. Audio speakers with a loose connection is fade in and out as well

So they provided a set up that would connect into the factory plugs so no splicing would be needed for anything including the speakers.

[musclemerc]

I have been in the Custom Audio and Smart House Industry for 21 years. PM Pops and ask about OHM's loads. The lower load the harder the amp works. I can post an article from CEDIA for you if you like

[LeoVampire]

What Impedience are the speakers you used for the replacement? Factory is 3.2 Ohms, so, if you used say 8 Ohm speaker, your amp will be working harder to achieve the same volume.

I will assume that you are running off the head units amp and not a larger 4 channel mounted in the trunk?

240w Impediance is 4 it says on the box's.

The set up uses the factory amp that came with the car.

Originaly The factory reciever was just a board with controls and held the CD player inside of it but the Amp also acted like the tunner and had the antena wire going to it as well.

[Spectragod]

I have been in the Custom Audio and Smart House Industry for 21 years. PM Pops and ask about OHM's loads. The lower load the harder the amp works. I can post an article from CEDIA for you if you like

Well then, there's your answer, I think this man is the help that your looking for, he's in the business. :bows:


240w Impediance is 4 it says on the box's.

The set up uses the factory amp that came with the car.

Originaly The factory reciever was just a board with controls and held the CD player inside of it but the Amp also acted like the tunner and had the antena wire going to it as well.

Correct, on the Taurus, the amp/tuner is in the trunk, what's up front is just a set of controls. The wiring kit for those cars bypass's what's in the trunk, so pretty much, your just running off the output power of your aftermarket head unit. I.E., 12 watts a channel, that is the most that the IC chips will produce with a larger power supply driving them.

I am not in the car audio business, call it a hobby, I bailed on it back in the late 80's. There is not a strong car audio market in this area, not a lot of people looking to dump 10+K in time aligned systems.:bigcry:

Personally, I would say, add an amp, a quality amp, 40 watts a channel would most likely satisfy your needs, but the sky is the limit.:beer:

Good luck....

[musclemerc]

240w Impediance is 4 it says on the box's.

The set up uses the factory amp that came with the car.

Originaly The factory reciever was just a board with controls and held the CD player inside of it but the Amp also acted like the tunner and had the antena wire going to it as well.

Get an analog multimeter and read the OHM's load on both the old speakers and the new. Another thing to consider is if the new speakers are Chinesse made they use a diffrent way to measure Impedance then the American measurements.

[LeoVampire]

Well then, there's your answer, I think this man is the help that your looking for, he's in the business. :bows:



Correct, on the Taurus, the amp/tuner is in the trunk, what's up front is just a set of controls. The wiring kit for those cars bypass's what's in the trunk, so pretty much, your just running off the output power of your aftermarket head unit. I.E., 12 watts a channel, that is the most that the IC chips will produce with a larger power supply driving them.

I am not in the car audio business, call it a hobby, I bailed on it back in the late 80's. There is not a strong car audio market in this area, not a lot of people looking to dump 10+K in time aligned systems.:bigcry:

Personally, I would say, add an amp, a quality amp, 40 watts a channel would most likely satisfy your needs, but the sky is the limit.:beer:

Good luck....

Actualy it still uses the AMP part of the unit just the other set of wires was lost for the head unit controls. The amp side is still connected and being used to drive the speakers none of that was changed.

To be honest I kind of figured it was laking the power to drive the new speakers but I hadn't changed out a system in so long I wasn't sure what they now a day's.

When I did this on my 93 Grand Marquies I used the factory amp with the new stereo and new speakers and never had an issue so I didn't figure there would be with this Ford to tell the truth.

But thanks for the advice guys!

Now it is time to say sorry babe but you need more money and need to buy one more thing LOL!!!

I figured all would be okay because the car didn't come with a sub woofer and we did not add one either.

[Spectragod]

Get an analog multimeter and read the OHM's load on both the old speakers and the new. Another thing to consider is if the new speakers are Chinesse made they use a diffrent way to measure Impedance then the American measurements.

That will give you a good base line to verify the accuracy of your meter, the OE's are stamped 3.2 Ohms, you can check the accuracy of the meter based on that measurement.

I would recomend something along the the lines of a Simpson 260 or 260D. I have a spare one I can loan you to take those measurements if you want.

Let me know if I can help.

[Spectragod]

Actualy it still uses the AMP part of the unit just the other set of wires was lost for the head unit controls. The amp side is still connected and being used to drive the speakers none of that was changed.

To be honest I kind of figured it was laking the power to drive the new speakers but I hadn't changed out a system in so long I wasn't sure what they now a day's.

When I did this on my 93 Grand Marquies I used the factory amp with the new stereo and new speakers and never had an issue so I didn't figure there would be with this Ford to tell the truth.

But thanks for the advice guys!

Now it is time to say sorry babe but you need more money and need to buy one more thing LOL!!!

I figured all would be okay because the car didn't come with a sub woofer and we did not add one either.

Interesting..... is it using speaker level or line level to drive the amp in the trunk? If line level, do you know what the output voltage of your head unit is?

You could probably get by running this off a couple of small amps to get you by, I may have a couple of old Alpine or Sony's laying around, if that would help your situation any.

I remember the old Fords had an extra amp tucked away that you either had to bypass or adapt to the system.

Then you need a sub..... j/k, car audio is just like the MM, you can always add more mods. :beer:

[LeoVampire]

That will give you a good base line to verify the accuracy of your meter, the OE's are stamped 3.2 Ohms, you can check the accuracy of the meter based on that measurement.

I would recomend something along the the lines of a Simpson 260 or 260D. I have a spare one I can loan you to take those measurements if you want.

Let me know if I can help.

The stock speakers say 4 ohms and 25W made in China LOL!!

I just checked the OMS on them with my meter and it holds a solid 4.0 so pretty acurate.

[Spectragod]

The stock speakers say 4 ohms and 25W made in China LOL!!

I just checked the OMS on them with my meter and it holds a solid 4.0 so pretty acurate.

Awesome, if you can get to the back of one of the installed units, you can verify their impedence as well.

I'll say go for a small amp, it'll most likely solve your issue.

[LeoVampire]

Interesting..... is it using speaker level or line level to drive the amp in the trunk? If line level, do you know what the output voltage of your head unit is?

You could probably get by running this off a couple of small amps to get you by, I may have a couple of old Alpine or Sony's laying around, if that would help your situation any.

I remember the old Fords had an extra amp tucked away that you either had to bypass or adapt to the system.

Then you need a sub..... j/k, car audio is just like the MM, you can always add more mods. :beer:

The antena wire was transferd to the new Head unit and only the control plug was removed from the amp for the old head unit. The other plug stayed in play as I said.

Unfortunatly the car isn't here right now had to be used to go to work and not back till 11:15 P.M.. So testing the speakers in the car will have to wait till tomarrow Morning.

Kenwood Excelon KDC-X994

RMS Power Output (http://signature.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Glossary.aspx?g=300&term=RMS+Power+Output) 22 watts

Peak Output (http://signature.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Glossary.aspx?g=300&term=Peak+Output) 50 watts

RMS Power Bandwidth (http://signature.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Glossary.aspx?g=300&term=RMS+Power+Bandwidth) 20-20kHz

Preamp Voltage (http://signature.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Glossary.aspx?g=300&term=Preamp+Voltage) 4 volts

[Spectragod]

It's got good pre amp voltage to drive an amp. The most it would do on speaker level would be 12 watts a channel. Just out of curiousity, do you know the the efficiency rating is on you speakers? It will say something like 89 db @ 1 watt 1 meter.

[LeoVampire]

It's got good pre amp voltage to drive an amp. The most it would do on speaker level would be 12 watts a channel. Just out of curiousity, do you know the the efficiency rating is on you speakers? It will say something like 89 db @ 1 watt 1 meter.

Sensitivity 87 db / W at 1 m

Frequency response 80 hz - 22,000 hz

Mximum RMS power 80 w

[LeoVampire]

oms wise I have to wait to check. Rain yesterday rain today rain tomarrow. I don't want to tear the door pannel out while this stuff is going on.

Will have to wait on an amp though We need to put together cash enough for when the Marauder is back from the body shop.

I think the radio is fine and no need to go that high in volume if you ask me just give's me a headach anyways.

But thanks for the help and info Spectragod and musclemerc.

Here is the pic from the Wiring Diagram book for the car. I picked one up for $10.00 on e-bay for doing the remote start and alarm when I get to it.

19343

The 2006 is the exact same set up through out the car as the 2007 like we have.