Sputter at idle

[Egon Spengler]

Hey Guys. I have had a sputter at idle coming out of the passenger side exhaust so it has to be a passenger cylinder. At idle it sounds like it is sputtering at one of the cylinders because it happens like clockwork so I am guessing I have a problemin only one cylinder. I have done a fuel filter change, cleaned the MAF and IAC, among other maintenance and it seems to become less worse, but seems to have started back up again, but never fully went away. I do not have a check engine light at all. What could it be? Please do not say valves or rings in the back cylinder! haha (No I have not done the cooling mod back there)

[justbob]

Lack of Disco? How were the plugs?

[Egon Spengler]

I replaced the plugs around 6 months ago. Checked them when I was doing my maintenance to make sure they were tight, but I guess I am going to have to pop the cover again and pull the plugs to see how they look!

Lack of Disco? How were the plugs?

[CBT]

I replaced the plugs around 6 months ago. Checked them when I was doing my maintenance to make sure they were tight, but I guess I am going to have to pop the cover again and pull the plugs to see how they look!
Bro, swap the left coils/plugs with the right side. If your problem is still on the same side, it is not coils or plugs.

[Blackened300a]

Its probably a bad coil. They only do it once and a while and make it hard to track down with out a light.
While its acting up, try unplugging each coil one at a time, if it worsens then move to the next, if it stays the same, then you found the one.

[justbob]

Run some fuel injector cleaner also, you should allready do that every few gas fill ups. Wouldn't hurt to run a compression test while you have the plugs out just to see how she's holding up. If you don't have a tester, they are free to rent.

[Egon Spengler]

Thank you sir.... Would a bad coil trigger a CEL? My CEL is off and still runs rough...

Its probably a bad coil. They only do it once and a while and make it hard to track down with out a light.
While its acting up, try unplugging each coil one at a time, if it worsens then move to the next, if it stays the same, then you found the one.

[Egon Spengler]

During my maintenance I dumped in a can of seafoam so I did run some cleaner through there. I have a tester, but I am affraid of the result if I do a test! haha... I really hope it isn't valves or rings! I will check the coils as instructed and check the plugs to see how they look. I am nervous about this problem! I hope it is a simple fix!

Run some fuel injector cleaner also, you should allready do that every few gas fill ups. Wouldn't hurt to run a compression test while you have the plugs out just to see how she's holding up. If you don't have a tester, they are free to rent.

[CBT]

During my maintenance I dumped in a can of seafoam so I did run some cleaner through there. I have a tester, but I am affraid of the result if I do a test! haha... I really hope it isn't valves or rings! I will check the coils as instructed and check the plugs to see how they look. I am nervous about this problem! I hope it is a simple fix!
My idea is better :alone:

[Blackened300a]

Thank you sir.... Would a bad coil trigger a CEL? My CEL is off and still runs rough...

My Crown vic would sputter and hesitate without a light. I ran through the coils and sure enough, it only took one to be bad to cause a issue.
I drove all the way to Indiana with a misfiring coil in the Marauder and the light never came on. I knew which one it was cause it shorted out against the wall of my cam cover.

[Egon Spengler]

Your idea costs more money! I am very mechanically and electrically savvy, so if I can troubleshoot and find the route cause, then I don't have to buy all new plugs and all new coils. Plus if I buy all new plugs and coils and it isn't even the problem I have wasted money right there that can go towards fixing the valves or the rings if that is the problem! haha YOU FAIL!

My idea is better :alone:

[CBT]

Your idea costs more money! I am very mechanically and electrically savvy, so if I can troubleshoot and find the route cause, then I don't have to buy all new plugs and all new coils. Plus if I buy all new plugs and coils and it isn't even the problem I have wasted money right there that can go towards fixing the valves or the rings if that is the problem! haha YOU FAIL!
I didn't say buy all new ones, I said swap them from side to side. If the problem switches sides, it is a coil or a plug, if the sputter stays on the same side, let us know who re-builds your heads. Either way, I'm not the one failing, Faily Failureton.

[justbob]

Your idea costs more money! I am very mechanically and electrically savvy, so if I can troubleshoot and find the route cause, then I don't have to buy all new plugs and all new coils. Plus if I buy all new plugs and coils and it isn't even the problem I have wasted money right there that can go towards fixing the valves or the rings if that is the problem! haha YOU FAIL!
He said to swap?:dunno:

[Egon Spengler]

Casey, my apologies... I didn't read... I like that idea and I just may try it!

[CBT]

Casey, my apologies... I didn't read... I like that idea and I just may try it!
Still love ya. Remember we have "true dual" exhaust, so if you hear it from only one pipe, it's got to be on that side of the engine. I'm no Maraudererologist, but I have used this technique on my own Marauder, it works. :beer:

[Egon Spengler]

Back at ya sista! But yeah, I heard it in the passenger tip so I know it is on that side. I hear that people do a cooling mod for the rear cylinder, but I have not attempted this and I hope nothing is fried there! I am hoping it is just a s***ty coil!

Still love ya. Remember we have "true dual" exhaust, so if you hear it from only one pipe, it's got to be on that side of the engine. I'm no Maraudererologist, but I have used this technique on my own Marauder, it works. :beer:

[Egon Spengler]

BY the way, what is the torque spec for the spark plugs and also, what should the compression be in the cylinders?

[LeoVampire]

BY the way, what is the torque spec for the spark plugs and also, what should the compression be in the cylinders?

You should get 200 to 220 there abouts in each cylender if the engine is in perfect condition.

12 foot pounds for the spark plugs.

[Egon Spengler]

Thank you sir... You are the marauder wizard of the northeast!

You should get 200 to 220 there abouts in each cylender if the engine is in perfect condition.

12 foot pounds for the spark plugs.

[LeoVampire]

Thank you sir... You are the marauder wizard of the northeast!

I just look up and keep all available info on our cars on hand for reference and report findings and share knowledge of possable repairs and diagnostics when a problem comes up.

I know when a car is not infront of me to listen to see and do a personal diagnoses there is a chance I might miss something when giving advice to others.

I just try and point them in the right direction.

I have learned a lot from other guys on here about our cars that I have not come up on yet for my own. Hard to find a way to reapir things on a car that has never had a problem persay.
I just remember 90% of what I read from other posts and take notes when nessasary so I can reference it.

Since I retired I no longer get to classes for updates on the newer cars so I rely on the internet and books to try and keep up right now with the changes.

But other than the electronics and some minor changes engines, tranny's and rear ends havn't evolved to the point where older knowledge and know how can not be applied.
Bearing's, lifters and so forth stil make the same sounds when there is a problem and so on and so forth. Electronics are great but they can never tell you the whole picture when there is an issue.
Just a better way of controlling the mechanicl parts and how it all runs.

[CBT]

BY the way, what is the torque spec for the spark plugs and also, what should the compression be in the cylinders?
Compression, no idea. Spark plugs, hand tight. And not lug nut hand tight, just hand tight. I've never ever used locktight or anything else to hold a spark plug in place on any vehicle. It boggles the mind how someone can eject a spark plug. :confused:

[Blackened300a]

Compression, no idea. Spark plugs, hand tight. And not lug nut hand tight, just hand tight. I've never ever used locktight or anything else to hold a spark plug in place on any vehicle. It boggles the mind how someone can eject a spark plug. :confused:

I agree handtight, but you should put a little never-seize on the threads to make it easier for removal in the future.

[Egon Spengler]

First off, thank you Leo... You have been a huge help.

I have never had issues with spark plugs, and launching one from the head boggles my mind as well... I do not use loctite at all! As for stripping heads, I don't know how you do that either... Just tighten them up and DON'T REEF!!!

Compression, no idea. Spark plugs, hand tight. And not lug nut hand tight, just hand tight. I've never ever used locktight or anything else to hold a spark plug in place on any vehicle. It boggles the mind how someone can eject a spark plug. :confused:

[LeoVampire]

First off, thank you Leo... You have been a huge help.

I have never had issues with spark plugs, and launching one from the head boggles my mind as well... I do not use loctite at all! As for stripping heads, I don't know how you do that either... Just tighten them up and DON'T REEF!!!

I like to let an aluminum head sit over night before I change out spark plugs to make sure there are no issues with the threads.

Most over tighten them and they strip easy. But any heat distortion in the head will cause that to happen when you are pulling them out.

I do use a tinny bit of antisieze on the threads putting them in and ALWAYS use dielectric grease on the rubber coil boots or spark plug wire boots depending on the set up to keep moister out and a good contact seal and it keeps them from locking onto the spark plug and ripping the rubber when removal is nessasary.

[Egon Spengler]

ALWAYS use dielectric grease on the rubber coil boots or spark plug wire boots depending on the set up to keep moister out and a good contact seal and it keeps them from locking onto the spark plug and ripping the rubber when removal is nessasary.
I need to do this when I have it apart. I didn't have any with me when I did my plugs, and I was kind of in a rush.