Axle seals went [Archive] - MercuryMarauder.net Forums

MMarauder03

05-07-2010, 10:48 AM

The axle seal on the passenger side went the other day. I have decent mechanical skills and was wondering if I could attempt this or just fork out the 193 bucks for labor? While I was at it I was going to replace the rear shocks since one of them is a bit squeaky and they are only 33 bucks at autozone. Let me know what you guys think...

Blackened300a

05-07-2010, 10:53 AM

Its not hard to do. You'll have to remove the rear diff cover, the caliper and rotor, the ABS sensor has to be remove so you can push the entire axle in. Remove the C clips and pull the axle out. You'll need a seal removal tool on a slap hammer to pull it out and a oversize socket to reinstall.
Its up to you if you wanna spend the cash.

MMarauder03

05-07-2010, 11:11 AM

Thanks blackened300a! Thats exactly what I wanted to hear. Ill get to it sunday afternoon. Taking a trip right now to ford to pick up the parts

massacre

05-07-2010, 11:38 AM

I did both sides on mine, it's not that hard.

But - 193 bucks labor isn't a bad price either.

jeffrt

05-07-2010, 12:43 PM

Mine just went about 3 weeks ago too. Same side.
Thought about doing it myself, but didn't have time so I went to the dealer.
Turned out the axle was shot too, and the leaking fluid trashed my parking brake shoes.
Turned into a $1100 repair bill. Ouch. Should have done it myself!
So, be ready, could be more wrong once you open it up.
Good luck!

MMarauder03

05-07-2010, 12:57 PM

Ouch!! Im sorry man! Im at a loss though because I didnt notice anything was wrong with it because they had it cleaned up when I bought it 5 days ago. and now all these problems are coming out. rear chocks, rotors and pads in the back from the fluid trashing them, and my front passenger sway link is loose too.... its been a headache... quote 988.75 for parts and labor, but considering I JUST bought the car I'm heated that the guy at the dealer cleaned it to make it look like nothings wrong then i see fluid dripping off my back rims two days later

jeffrt

05-07-2010, 01:26 PM

Sounds like mine - just bought it in Oct., and the guy I bought mine from must have had the rear air bags pumped up when I bought it, because a week later I realized the compressor was shot, and now that it's warm, I've noticed the a/c is gone too.
Real popular car with my wife. Ha ha.

RF Overlord

05-07-2010, 02:03 PM

MMarauder03, what is the build date of your car? Bad axles in early-build 300A cars are quite common. Fortunately, Rock Auto sells Dorman axles that come with everything you need except fluid for about $120 each.

MMarauder03

05-07-2010, 09:50 PM

I'm not sure of the build date but it is a 300a. I actually met up with aconvertedchevy in heavy traffic today and he offered to help me out since he has access to a 4 post lift. I guess it's up to me but should I go with the new axles or just replace the seals and bearings for $10.55 a side from ford? What would the pros be for the axles? Or should I just do the seals and fresh oil and use the leftover money for my exhaust and shocks?

jeffrt

05-08-2010, 06:59 AM

I asked the technician if we should do both axles while they were in there, and he said that usually the passenger side goes, and the drivers side doesn't have too many issues.
If you're already in there, you may want to do it.
Hope that helps.

RF Overlord

05-08-2010, 07:06 AM

This one is a tough call.

If you aren't hearing any rumbling or roaring sounds or otherwise showing any symptoms, your axles may be fine. The unfortunate part is that the only way to tell if one is starting to wear excessively is to pull them out, which you have to do to replace the seal anyway. If one IS bad, then you either need to leave the car apart until the replacement arrives, or put it all back together and do it all over again later.

jeffrt, that's exactly what I found on Phoebe...the driver's side was fine, the passenger's side was toast.

MMarauder03

05-08-2010, 07:15 AM

Hmm... well I guess you make money to spend money. lol I'll probably end up replacing the axle at the dealer seeing as how that IS covered by the warranty, I'll point him in the right direction for the axle and see what he says.

MMarauder03

05-13-2010, 02:17 PM

Replaced it myself. Cost 47 dollars all oem parts from ford. No more leakage!

Blackened300a

05-13-2010, 02:34 PM

Replaced it myself. Cost 47 dollars all oem parts from ford. No more leakage!

Nice! Not too hard at all.

justbob

05-13-2010, 02:42 PM

I keep my drivers side axle for track purposes. If a member or my self were to snap a 28 spline, we could have it drivable in thirty minutes. Nice to have an extra with ya, you will never see a jeep group on the trail without a few extras amongst them.

MMarauder03

05-13-2010, 06:34 PM

@ blackened300a: nahh not bad at all!

@ justbob: 30 minutes?? That's wicked fast! I wish it had only taken me 30 minutes! Lol

MMarauder03

05-13-2010, 06:35 PM

Now I can keep my rims nice and shiny! :beer:

Vortex

06-04-2010, 06:51 AM

When I changed my wheels last week on my 09 GM I noticed the inside of one of the wheels was all black and slimy. Last night I took a look with a flashlight and figured out its my right rear and more than likely the axle seal. Drpped it off at the dealer this am and still waiting to hear back from the service dept; the car is under warranty. Never had a problem like this on any car.

Rockettman

06-04-2010, 07:25 AM

My '91 Mustang has - what I believe to be the same 8.8" Diff.- has the same problem.
The passenger side seal.
I didn't know it MAY be that easy to change myself. May consider that now. (Didn't want to pay the dealer).

RF Overlord

06-04-2010, 07:58 AM

Rockettman, I had never done an axle job before either, and it really wasn't that bad, even doing it on my back in the driveway. If there's an AutoZone near you, you can borrow all the tools you need.

OOPS...just saw you are in Canada...maybe a Canadian FLAPS has a similar loan-a-tool program.

Rockettman

06-04-2010, 08:14 AM

I don't really understand the part about "pushing in" the axles to release the clip. Is that the "S" or "C" clip I've seen in pictures?

RF Overlord

06-04-2010, 08:24 AM

The "C" clip...you don't need to mess with the "S" clip (actually a spring) at all.

The reason you need to push the axle in, is that the C-clip is recessed into the spider gear during use. You remove the pinion shaft first, as it keeps the axle from sliding inward and the C-clip from falling out. Once the pinion shaft is removed, the axle can be pushed in about an inch to reveal the C-clip.

Rockettman

06-04-2010, 08:53 AM

Anyone out there have pictures of all this. It's not going to be too easy to find "mystery" parts when they're covered in diff. oil.

GetMeMyStogie

06-04-2010, 04:43 PM

Anyone out there have pictures of all this. It's not going to be too easy to find "mystery" parts when they're covered in diff. oil.

When are you going to make this repair? Maybe I can come by and help ya' out - I've done this repair a couple of times on the 8.8" - open-diff, though. It's a messy job, so you're wrenching on your own, though ;)

Something to have handy is a screw-extractor kit, especially since you're working on an axle that's been together for 19+ years. The head of the lock screw that keeps the pinion shaft in place can snap off - in which case, you have to drill a hole into the remaining piece of the screw and use a screw extractor to get that piece out. Oh, and a replacement screw, too. And a length of tubing to make refilling the diff afterwards easier.

Vortex

06-04-2010, 07:16 PM

Well the dealership fixed it in a half a day under warranty so I guess I shouldnt complain. Strange from what Ive read the same seal seems to fail on several cars.

Rockettman

06-07-2010, 04:06 AM

When are you going to make this repair? Maybe I can come by and help ya' out - I've done this repair a couple of times on the 8.8" - open-diff, though. It's a messy job, so you're wrenching on your own, though ;)

Something to have handy is a screw-extractor kit, especially since you're working on an axle that's been together for 19+ years. The head of the lock screw that keeps the pinion shaft in place can snap off - in which case, you have to drill a hole into the remaining piece of the screw and use a screw extractor to get that piece out. Oh, and a replacement screw, too. And a length of tubing to make refilling the diff afterwards easier.

Ok...didn't think of things like that. That may be too much of a pain if that kind of thing happens. I may have to re-think this. Maybe the bucks to the dealer (or someone else that doesn't have to do it on their back on their garage floor) is worth it should something go wrong. :(
I have been in there before - but it was probably 1993 - to drain and change to synthetic diff oil. Thanks for the forethought GetMeMyStogie. :beer:

james79stang

06-07-2010, 05:43 AM

Jim, i went outside to get paper this morning.... and the the right axle seal is leaking...uggghhhhh. my rear axle's were replaced about 100k ago. so i am prob change the right-hand axle and re-seal that side, since the r/h seams to be a posted problem, James

MMarauder03

10-06-2010, 03:38 PM

Just reviving and old thread of mine, Ordering new axles to replace while I get my 4.10's installed. Is the correct PN for the Dorman axles #630214?

tbone

10-06-2010, 04:16 PM

Perfect time to do it!

MMarauder03

10-07-2010, 10:20 AM

I believe I have the correct length and everything, just wanted to make sure before I make an expensive mistake. Is the correct PN 630214?

GreekGod

10-07-2010, 01:14 PM

2003 MERCURY MARAUDER 4.6L 281cid V8 FI DOHC : Drivetrain : Axle Shaft

PriceAUTO UNLIMITED Part # 2733 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/images/MoreInfo2.png {#3W1Z4234KA} 5 lugs; 28 spline; 10 cover bolts; 8.8 ring gear; 34-7/16" length; Sold individually; Includes ABS Rings and Studs
REAR W/ABS; LEFT AND RIGHT

http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=1328009&imageurl=http%3A//info.rockauto.com/AutoUnlimited/447-5W1Z.jpg$106.79

------------------------------------

DORMAN Part # 630214 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/images/MoreInfo2.png {#3W1Z4234KA} Sold Individually; Length: 34.3" / Number of Holes: 5 / Splines: 28
Includes Bearing, Seal, Studs and Lug Nuts; Rear RightIncludes Bearing, Seal, Studs and Lug Nuts; Rear Lefthttp://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=1058906&imageurl=http%3A//info.rockauto.com/RB/630-214-007.jpg$121.89

babbage

10-08-2010, 08:56 AM