Drilled/slotted or slotted? [Archive] - MercuryMarauder.net Forums

boatmangc

06-19-2010, 10:50 AM

Getting ready to make it stop a little better, just got my TCE SS lines (thanks Todd) and I am going to upgrade rotors and pads.
Mainly highway driving with an occasional 1320 (SSHS10 next).
Who is running what?
My understanding is that slotted will outlast drilled due to cracking.

cougar9150

06-19-2010, 11:05 AM

I have done both. I had cryo-treated drilled/slotted on my first MM and it was better than stock w/Bendix CT3 pads. It wasn't smack your face off the steering wheel kind of stopping but definitely livelier than the OEMs were.

I'm getting ready to install cryo-treated OEM size slotted rotors on all 4 corners just to see if it will stop better this way. I'm probably going with Bendix or hawk pads and will be ordering my lines from Todd in a few days. I'm hoping that more surface area will mean more grab with the slotted only rotors.

musclemerc

06-19-2010, 11:15 AM

I'm running Powerslot DS, with Hawk HPS pads, and TCE SS lines without issue for 3 years now. She stops on a dime!

RoyLPita

06-19-2010, 12:21 PM

I have Powerslots in front and Commands in the rear with Napa Ceramix pads.

boatmangc

06-19-2010, 02:08 PM

I just read up on the Command Auto rotors and they sound nice.
I am beginning to wonder if there is any reason other than aesthetics to install drilled-slotted or slotted rotors on our cars, It seems to me they are designed for cooling/off gassing to prevent brake fade under high use ie. racing which few of us do with our 4500 lb. freight trains.
I am upgrading brakes on the MM because I just feel like I want a bit more whoa to equal the go. I have had several occasions where I have said "I wish I had more brakes" and the fronts are starting to feel a bit warped.
I likey the drilled/slotted and in the butt-o-meter they seemed to slow the Mark 8 down better but the butt-o-meter can be off a bit from time to time.

thathotrodlincn

06-19-2010, 03:52 PM

Had drilled & slotted (stock diameter) on my previous MM. Was extremely satisfied with the performance - firmer pedal, better brake modulation, quieter, generally lower pedal pressure. Had them on for over 30K before the car was wrecked plus they looked cool. :)

Jolly Roger

06-19-2010, 04:05 PM

I have NAPA drilled and slotted (lifetime warranty) with Hawk pads.;)
Quarter mile brakedown noticeablely better.

Mr. Man

06-19-2010, 08:59 PM

JoeBoomz

06-20-2010, 07:27 AM

My father and I bought two sets of these to put on our Marauders and are pleasently surprised with them, especially considering the price ($214 for all four rotors and pads). We saved half on shipping!

The rotors are stamped "brembo" along the edges, whether real or a knockoff they work good and look wicked. We haven't been able to get them to warp with any amount of heavy stopping - even when smoking the pads.

The pads are "powerstop" brand ceramic and I'm sure you'd get a bit better stopping power from a semi-metallic but I use it in my DD and I'm uber-happy with it! :D

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercury-Marauder-03-04-2003-2004-Brake-Rotors-Pads-F-R-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem33 5e2756a7QQitemZ220622968487QQp tZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fParts Q5fAccessories

blackhueys

06-20-2010, 01:02 PM

I will never ever ever! use drilled rotors. I was at a track one time and saw what happens when they let go from cracks took out the windshield, tire and rim, pieces went through the fender and fire wall driver sent to hospital needed 18 stitches in his leg no way and this is only my story. I have heard and read about others. The only way I think you could ever get me to use drilled rotors is if you let me take them off power clean then magna flux every time before I drove with them. Now I know that some people have great success with what they may have used this is just MY opinion from personal experience.

boatmangc

06-20-2010, 02:08 PM

Kinda leaning towards these so far.
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=UBPRA880129_0278 321758&An=599001+102003+50046+2046038

Big Black Beast

06-20-2010, 03:35 PM

Personally I stay away from drilled because they can develop cracks. Driving around town and the highway you may never have an issue but why tempt fate. Slotted are more than adequate for normal use on a DD.

I agree. A DD doesn't need cross drilled rotors.

Actually, don't alot of holes actually decrease braking due to less surface area? The trade off, is heat dissapation, but unless you are racing, fade really shouldn't be that big of an issue.

boatmangc

06-20-2010, 04:50 PM

If you start searching on the WWW there are pros and cons on both sides.
http://www.ehow.com/about_5329445_slotted-rotors-vs-drilled-rotors.html

I think I am just going slotted, I have seem many cracked drilled rotors.
JoeBoomz I put the same set on my Mark 8 and unfortunately I didn't get to put more than about 100 miles on the car and then I sold it. They were pretty but the 1st set of fronts were warped right out of the box, they replaced them no question.
I would suggest you update us when you get some more miles on them and let us know how they last.

Mr. Man

06-20-2010, 07:11 PM

I agree. A DD doesn't need cross drilled rotors.

Actually, don't alot of holes actually decrease braking due to less surface area? The trade off, is heat dissipation, but unless you are racing, fade really shouldn't be that big of an issue.

Actually dirt and debris can get caught in the holes thus potentially reducing the life of the pads (remember racing surfaces are periodically blown off).

If your racing then by all means go w/ the slotted/drilled and after the race throw them away like the big boys do:)

boatmangc

06-21-2010, 02:43 PM

Ordered the ones in post #11.
Time will tell.
Now Hawk Pads or Napa severe duty?

ctrlraven

06-21-2010, 03:01 PM

I'd go with Hawk pads.

Next time I replace mine I'll be going with Powerslot cryo-treated slotted rotors with Hawk pads.

boatmangc

06-21-2010, 03:10 PM

I looked at the Power slots too, I'm getting the Napa slots for $90 ea and no shipping, I've been dealing with the same Napa for 20+ years and know they will do right if I am not happy with them.
I think I'm doing the Hawks for pads.

1stMerc

06-24-2010, 07:51 PM

Pulled the trigger on the ebay kit Sunday and they came today. Good looking hardware and the price was right. Now just have to find time to install along with the TCE lines.

Big Black Beast

06-24-2010, 07:59 PM

Actually dirt and debris can get caught in the holes thus potentially reducing the life of the pads (remember racing surfaces are periodically blown off).

If your racing then by all means go w/ the slotted/drilled and after the race throw them away like the big boys do:)

Or at least, clean them out.;)

MercNasty

06-24-2010, 08:23 PM

what is the difference between drill slotted and slotted rotors? I know that i have drill slotted, which has the holes and lines, what different about slotted rotors?

1stMerc

06-24-2010, 08:40 PM

Slotted don't have holes, just grooves in the rotor

Mr. Man

06-25-2010, 02:13 PM

Or at least, clean them out.;)
Make sure they're cool before hitting them with the hose or I guarantee they will be cracked.:coolman:

musclemerc

06-25-2010, 02:18 PM

^^ Not a problem if you use a compressor. :coolman:

MercNasty

06-26-2010, 06:45 PM

tbone

06-26-2010, 07:08 PM

I LOVE mine!

Mr. Man

06-26-2010, 08:49 PM

So drilled and slotted rotors are not good for daily drivers? I haven't had any problems with mine but I definitely don't want to be on here saying one cracked on me. Should I change to just slotted rotors?
I wouldn't worry to much about it at this point unless you notice cracks around the holes. When it's time to change them out I would go with slotted only but if you are having good luck with what you have...then it's personal choice. The slots give the gases somewhere to go when braking thus in theory making the pads more firmly planted on the rotor as there is no expansion trying to push them away. The drilled rotors do the same and offer extra venting for cooling. Drilled rotors are used widely in racing and after the race most teems chuck them and go with new at the next race. You should be fine with what you have but keep a close eye on them while doing your periodic inspections.:)

boatmangc

06-27-2010, 05:24 AM

I just changed a set of OEM rotors on my employees F350 with big mods to suspension and motor.
Stock rotor cracked all to h3ll but his wheel/tire combos have got to weigh 100 lbs plus.
Any rotor can crack under the right circumstances

Todd TCE

06-30-2010, 07:41 PM

So drilled and slotted rotors are not good for daily drivers? I havent had any problems with mine but I definitely dont want to be on here saying one cracked on me. Should I change to just slotted rotors?

They'd be fine for the dd use but certainly not desired for more extreme open track day use. (not referring to drag racing) Constant expansion and contraction leads to stress fractures which in time create larger full size cracks.

In the end they won't lead to appreciable gains to justify the added cost. But for a few ounces of weight savings and the cool factor; they rock.

boatmangc

07-01-2010, 03:59 AM

Thanks Todd, I was hoping you would pipe in here. BTW got the SS lines, NICE!

Normally the cracks start as hairline, if you are up on your cars condition you should be able to see them long before you have a major failure and shouldn't have any ill effects other than the expense of brake repairs. I think having a rotor shatter and do major damage will either be from a complete POS part (which you probably would feel in your steering wheel/brake pedal) long before it is catastrophic, or under a road racing situation where you are really stressing the brakes, then you might have a failure with lower grade (not TCE, Baer or Wilwood)brakes.
Of course if you are road racing your MM hard enough to have this issue you should probably consider a different car for the application. There are a couple of cars available that will out handle the MM!

cw1115

07-05-2010, 02:30 PM

Black_Out

07-05-2010, 04:13 PM

I would just go with drilled rotors if I were you, and Hawk HPS pads. I went with slotted/dimpled and the noise from the slots is extremely annoying on a daily driver after a while.

Besides, all the big brake kits nowadays are using drilled rotors.

JoeBoomz

07-06-2010, 12:45 PM

I got the ones off ebay in post 9. Look good and much better than stock when cold. My stock were warped and glazed off. Stopping fast was not an option. I did however turn my pedal to mush with the new setup after several repeated hard stops.

I didn't bleed the lines when I installed the new rotors and pads and I am thinking that it will certianly help with the "mushy" ness after enjoying the brakes too much ;)

musclemerc

07-06-2010, 01:20 PM

The mushy feeling your talking about is the rubber lines that run from the chassis to the caliper. They expand when pressure is applied. Get some TCE SS lines and that will be fixed for good.

boatmangc

07-06-2010, 06:45 PM

I didn't bleed the lines when I installed the new rotors and pads and I am thinking that it will certianly help with the "mushy" ness after enjoying the brakes too much ;)
You really shouldn't have introduced air into your system doing pads and rotors.

Keep in mind 2 things, brake fluid needs to be replaced occasionally it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and also on it's own it can heat and boil during prolonged hard braking leading to mushy pedal.
I am replacing mine with Amsoil synthetic when I do my pads, TCE lines and rotors hopefully this weekend.

TiTo35

08-09-2010, 09:06 AM

fastblackmerc

08-09-2010, 09:26 AM

BUMP

I would like to hear from the folks who bought brakes and rotors off ebay. I get a little leery when I hear ebay...

I am in the market for new rotors and pads...I JUST put pads on a month ago (the cheap ones) and they are showing how cheap they are!

The one thing you don't want to do is get cheap brake parts. Read thru this entire thread for pad and rotor options.

Remember.... the life you save may be your own!

ctrlraven

08-09-2010, 10:32 AM

I didn't bleed the lines when I installed the new rotors and pads and I am thinking that it will certianly help with the "mushy" ness after enjoying the brakes too much ;)
Most people don't but you do need to take the brake reservoir cap off and remove some fluid since pushing in the pistons in the calipers will displace the fluid in the lines back up to the reservoir.

fastblackmerc

08-09-2010, 10:39 AM

Most people don't but you do need to take the brake reservoir cap off and remove some fluid since pushing in the pistons in the calipers will displace the fluid in the lines back up to the reservoir.

That is true. If your brake fluid is dark brown / black then you really need to change the fluid.

Krytin

08-09-2010, 03:38 PM

I'm running Powerslot DS, with Hawk HPS pads, and TCE SS lines without issue for 3 years now. She stops on a dime!

Same here but w/out the SS lines - over 40K miles and the drilled holes have no cracks. New pads arrived today & new D/S rotors should be here tomorrow.

jsignorelli

08-09-2010, 03:43 PM

I recently installed the Baer Brake kit (front & rear) with huge rotors and calipers. The Marauder now stops like my Cobra Mustangs. I'm sorry I did not do this upgrade six years ago when I got the car.

JoeBoomz

08-10-2010, 09:43 PM

The pads are "powerstop" brand ceramic and I'm sure you'd get a bit better stopping power from a semi-metallic but I use it in my DD and I'm uber-happy with it! :D

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercury-Marauder-03-04-2003-2004-Brake-Rotors-Pads-F-R-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem33 5e2756a7QQitemZ220622968487QQp tZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fParts Q5fAccessories

Still happy with the eBay pads & rotors in my DD... Haven't had a chance to replace the brake fluid yet though.