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View Full Version : Making the Naake mounts right



cougar9150
08-31-2010, 12:20 PM
I'm getting ready to install my new to me single adjustable Naake shocks. I'm replacing all the lower mounts that came with it and making new lower mount sleeves to the actual factory widths out of a single piece of steel tubing. None of the 2 short sleeve that move/flex and eat through the lower eyelet bushing on the front (need to replace both the front ones) or the 1/2" too thin sleeve on the rears that require a stack of washers between the sleeves and mounting tabs.

I want to put bushing material on the ends of the sleeves that will be sticking out past the QA1 eyelet bushing so I don' have any side to side slop and it will actaully compress against the shock mounts. I'm looking at polyurethane tubing at McMaster Carr but was wondering what durometer I should pick. They offer Med-soft, Medium, Hard, and Extra hard. I'm leaning toward the extra hard which has a tensile strength of 1600psi but wasn't sure if I should go with something softer. Any input anyone has on the durometer rating that may be better would be much appreciated.

I'm also replacing the 10" springs with a 12" long version but haven't decided on the spring rate yet, welding a washer to the front shock caps, adding a new sleeve to the shock cap bushing to reduce the slop here, adding energy suspension shock boots, spring isolators, and bump stops. Basically taking them and making them the way they should have come from Naake if they had done it right.

The only thing I haven't 100% decided to address is the lower spring perch. Thinking if taking a 4" aluminum disk, boring out the center to fit/press over the Naake perch so that the the lower portion of the spring is actually sitting on something with the same OD.

Anyone have recommendations on the bump stop height? I was thinking of getting the factory size or reusing the ones off my old shocks but wasn't sure if I should go a little shorter since I'll be dropping the car between 1-1.5"

Please no comments about how you didn't like Naakes, go with stock etc... I am aware of the issues other have had, and the ones who haven't had issues. I bought them, have them in my garage and I am installing them regardless of how others feel about them because I want to give them a try. I can't get adjustable shocks anywhere else and it seems most suspension companies are just not interested in helping our platform out. I plan on regularly drag racing and auto-crossing the car soon. I feel these are the best available/only option for that kind of regular duty that allows me to tweak settings while it is on the car depending on what I'm doing that day.

FordNut
08-31-2010, 04:34 PM
I removed the bump stops from my OEM fronts and used them on the QA1's. You might get some ideas from my thread on the mods I made on my fronts.

cougar9150
08-31-2010, 05:14 PM
I removed the bump stops from my OEM fronts and used them on the QA1's. You might get some ideas from my thread on the mods I made on my fronts.

Thanks Brian. Yours, and OsFanRich are where I have gotten most of my ideas on on the mods I'm doing. Going to see how the QA1 12" springs work first before I consider using the factory springs again. I want it to be fairly stiff which is why I'm considering the 500-550lb springs from QA1.

For the bump stop did you just push it onto the stud conversion kit or did you remove it to get the bump stop onto the shaft?

Also what bushings did you use for the spring cap. My kit only came with one bushing the was mounted on the lower side. I would feel better if I could sandwich the spring cap between 2 bushings but don't think with the current bushing I would have enough length on the stud for one on both sides of the cap.

FordNut
08-31-2010, 05:25 PM
I just pushed the bump stop over the nut.

The bushings I used came off a rear shock I had laying around in the garage. They were larger diameter than the ones that came with the kit. It BARELY fit, there was only about 1 thread on the nut that caught before it started compressing the bushings.

The very hardest part is the longer springs will extend the shocks out further than the lower control arm will pivot. You gotta compress the spring while installing in order to get the lower mount to line up.

burt ragio
09-01-2010, 06:58 AM
OEM bump stops taller springs 425-450 lbs max will keep the car more than flat in the corners. Ride height keep in mind ground clearence headers & speed bumps.

cougar9150
09-01-2010, 09:53 AM
OEM bump stops taller springs 425-450 lbs max will keep the car more than flat in the corners. Ride height keep in mind ground clearence headers & speed bumps.

I'm only going to drop it about an 1" at first and see what my clearance looks like. This is why I'm holding off on the Mach1 chin spoiler until it's no longer my DD.

I'm ordering new lower bushings from QA1 and was going to get their input on the springs they would recommend with the curb weight of our car. I actaully want it to be pretty stiff even though I know the ride quality will suffer which is the only reason I am considering the higher rate springs.

I am also planning on installing a Cobra block when I do go forged and was thinking the higher rate springs would possibly be better with the added weight up front.

Once I see what QA1 suggests I'll make my decision.

cougar9150
11-11-2010, 04:40 AM
Everything is in and the car handles like it is on rails. I did order new springs and they were not what I was expecting. I order just a standard 12" 2.5" ID QA1 spring and it was completely straight with a 2.5" ID top and bottom. I just returned them and used the ones that came with the Naake kit. QA1 didn't have a spring with the same upper and lower IDs in a 12" length as the Naake springs (can't remember QA1 P/N and didn't write it down). I had them powder coated royal blue along with the spring cap.

Once everything was together notice the springs coils are much closer and will probably bottom out even with the car still near the factory ride height. I'll be lowering it once the air suspension is good and I know everything is in top order.

I do definitely see that new longer springs will be in order. If I want to retain use of the stock spring cap I need either find a tapered 12" spring, make a lower perch for wider ID spring, or make a perch to install OEM springs. I have even thought about making a custom spring cap but feel that is the harder route than just making a lower mount. I'm leaning towards using the factory springs and stealing some of Fordnut's ideas.

burt ragio
11-11-2010, 06:21 AM
Just a sugestion, find a spring company that can turn some front springs for you at the size & rate you disire any spring co. can do that for you. I would go stock spring height & 450 lb. max. Set the naake qa 1s at #6. Keep in mind every time you change height it changes alignment. While you experiment you may want to put some trash tires up front.

Krytin
11-11-2010, 04:36 PM
Fordnut's lower spring mounts for the front shocks are the best you will come up with for the effort and money they will cost.

cougar9150
11-11-2010, 05:09 PM
Fordnut's lower spring mounts for the front shocks are the best you will come up with for the effort and money they will cost.

I can get them made on the cheap now. My company recently opened a pretty bad ass machine shop. A giant Haas CNC, 16' long sheet metal break, 2nd largest water jet in Florida, a bunch of manual lathes, mills, and supporting equipment. They are adding another Haas and other things.

They will do small things here and there for me free or really cheap. I just have to supply material and a inventor 10 file. I can also play after hours sometimes.

Seems it would be easy to draw up a mount, just need the QA1 spring seat dimensions.

Krytin
11-11-2010, 08:47 PM
I can get them made on the cheap now. My company recently opened a pretty bad ass machine shop. A giant Haas CNC, 16' long sheet metal break, 2nd largest water jet in Florida, a bunch of manual lathes, mills, and supporting equipment. They are adding another Haas and other things.

They will do small things here and there for me free or really cheap. I just have to supply material and a inventor 10 file. I can also play after hours sometimes.

Seems it would be easy to draw up a mount, just need the QA1 spring seat dimensions.

That sounds like a very good situation you have there!
Pictures of the finished parts would be nice if you get the chance!

cougar9150
11-12-2010, 04:09 AM
That sounds like a very good situation you have there!
Pictures of the finished parts would be nice if you get the chance!

I'll make sure I do. Feeling that the OEM springs will be the best bet for ride quality and reliability. Never heard of stock spring bottoming out.

Krytin
11-12-2010, 08:34 AM
I'll make sure I do. Feeling that the OEM springs will be the best bet for ride quality and reliability. Never heard of stock spring bottoming out.

The ones supplied by Naake did - the OEMs with a coil cut off never did for the three years I had the QA 1's on the car.
You wont have a problem with the OEM springs.