View Full Version : new plugs and wires..opinions?
dwrwebb
09-08-2010, 08:07 AM
It's time for a general tune up, including new spark plugs and wires...I'm just wondering if there are any opinions/preferences on which way to go...I know some plugs are just "over rated" (ie-cost more $ for the same "performance"). I have seen some positive reviews for the autolite xp 103 though...
ImpalaSlayer
09-08-2010, 08:09 AM
go with standard plugs, the mm has no wires
yjmud
09-08-2010, 08:10 AM
no wires on marauders you can get new boots
dwrwebb
09-08-2010, 08:13 AM
what do you mean by "standard plugs"...just running up to the local autozone (or whatever) and asking for new plugs?
dwrwebb
09-08-2010, 08:14 AM
yeah...I don't know why I mentioned wires..still thinking about my old CV, I guess...
ImpalaSlayer
09-08-2010, 08:15 AM
what do you mean by "standard plugs"...just running up to the local autozone (or whatever) and asking for new plugs?
just use the oem copper plugs, no fancy stupid expensive plugs, no need to replace the coils unless your having an issue
dwrwebb
09-08-2010, 08:20 AM
well, I am having an issue, but I am going to change the plugs and fuel filter first
I figured most of the "fancy" plugs were just a gimmick. I read an article once (I forget where, or I'd post a link...) where they did multiple comparisons between "standard" plugs and the expensive ones. 9 times out of 10 there was no difference, other than cost. there was one plug though that showed a slight increase in performance, but the price barely justified the purchase...Thanks for your input, by the way...
dwrwebb
09-08-2010, 08:21 AM
I just thought of something else...if they are pre-gapped, shouldn't they be gapped to the appropriate amt.? or should I gap/re/gap them to a certain distance? Also, is the OEMpart number on the plugs I have now, or will autozone be able to just look it up and get the right plugs? The sadpartis, I have replaced plugs in previous cars, but never really asked any questions. I just bought and installed...although I never had any problems doing it that way....Thanks again!
ImpalaSlayer
09-08-2010, 08:22 AM
well, I am having an issue, but I am going to change the plugs and fuel filter first
I figured most of the "fancy" plugs were just a gimmick. I read an article once (I forget where, or I'd post a link...) where they did multiple comparisons between "standard" plugs and the expensive ones. 9 times out of 10 there was no difference, other than cost. there was one plug though that showed a slight increase in performance, but the price barely justified the purchase...Thanks for your input, by the way...
id start with the plugs too as they are much cheaper then the coils and surely cant hurt.
dwrwebb
09-08-2010, 08:29 AM
I just thought of something else...if they are pre-gapped, shouldn't they be gapped to the appropriate amt.? or should I gap/re/gap them to a certain distance? Also, is the OEMpart number on the plugs I have now, or will autozone be able to just look it up and get the right plugs? The sadpartis, I have replaced plugs in previous cars, but never really asked any questions. I just bought and installed...although I never had any problems doing it that way....Thanks again!
this may have slipped by unnoticed...
RF Overlord
09-08-2010, 08:51 AM
AutoLite XP104 (or 103 if you have a tune) are excellent plugs for the money. You are right to stay away from the "gimmicks" like multiple electrodes, etc.
The only plugs you shouldn't attempt to re-gap are the iridiums, as the centre electrode is very small and brittle and easy to damage.
Due to the aluminium heads, you should only attempt to remove the plugs when the motor is cold, and for God's sake use a torque wrench when installing the new ones. Some will claim they never use one and have had no issues, but the vast majority of spark plug ejections have occured on motors that have had the plugs over-tightened and the threads damaged. 11 ft/lbs dry is the correct spec.
Use of anti-seize had been debated endlessly. Either use it or don't, but if you do, use VERY little and adjust the torque spec down a pound or two.
Ktorres1
09-08-2010, 09:13 AM
Coils my man give musclemerc a holler for a good deal on coils.
dwrwebb
09-08-2010, 10:23 AM
Alright...thanks for the input guys. I did actually just order the X3 from Dennis, so perhaps I should get the xp103's? Also, I have always used a torque wrench...better safe than sorry, right? So if I do get the 103's, you are saying I SHOULD gap them? and if yes, to what size?
dwrwebb
09-08-2010, 11:51 AM
OK, ok...now I am really getting concerned....I have ordered
DR's tune (w/ x3)...does this mean I should get specific plugs that are in a specific heat range? didn't think new plugs would be such an in depth issue!?!
tbone
09-08-2010, 12:32 PM
I put Bosch Platinum in mine. $3 each. The car runs WOT like greased lightning and purrs like a kitten at idle.
BLACKMARAUDER04
09-08-2010, 12:45 PM
I WENT WITH THE MOTORCRAFT SP505 PLUG ( AGSF22C )
$1.90 FROM ROCK AUTO ( OVER $4.50 EA FROM DEALER
when I purchased these many months ago. I also replaced the PVC valve at the same time. These plugs will last 36 months ot 36000 miles easily.
They are copper and are also one range colder than stock so they won't burn up with your tune. I highly recommend these. I changed these at 64000 miles and 100000 miles. Performance is excellent.
Just do a search by part number and they will come up.
Paul T. Casey
09-08-2010, 12:46 PM
With a tune, you want the 1 step colder plugs e.g. the XP 103's (or whatever brand you prefer). Always verify the gap, and if anything, exactly at or slightly (say .002") over the the OEM value is where to set them. I think (it's been awhile) we have a range on ours. Set them toward the high end of the range if this is the case.
musclemerc
09-08-2010, 06:45 PM
The stock range is .052~.056 The XP-103's are already one step colder.
If your not in a rush get them from rockauto.com, they are way cheaper there. You can apply for the $2.00 off per plug on their home page under promotions.
If you think you need coils go with OEM's and get the LFP connectors.
fastblackmerc
09-09-2010, 03:07 AM
I ALWAYS check the gap on the plugs before I install them. The MM gap is .052 - .056. I gap mine at .052 so as the plugs wear they will still be in the "range". You never know if the plug has been dropped or not gapped properly. Plugs out of the box will have different gaps.
I change my plugs once a year regardless of the mileage.
risky
09-09-2010, 07:37 AM
now im getting confused. i dont know how much of a difference DR'S tune is from LIDIOS TUNE but on lidios tune he is not recomending colder plugs or colder thermostat .im ordering lidios tune this morning i just want to make sure i do it the right way .should i get colder plugs?
dwrwebb
09-09-2010, 10:29 AM
from what I seem to remember reading: not for Lidio...yes for Dennis'. but don't quote me on that. Probably the best thing to do would be to ask lidio, just as I will ask Dennis...
fastblackmerc
09-09-2010, 11:16 AM
now im getting confused. i dont know how much of a difference DR'S tune is from LIDIOS TUNE but on lidios tune he is not recomending colder plugs or colder thermostat .im ordering lidios tune this morning i just want to make sure i do it the right way .should i get colder plugs?
Ask Lidio if he can tune for colder plugs & COLDER THERMOSTAT. If not then use stock heat range on the plugs.
88LTDCV351
11-11-2010, 11:01 AM
Hi guys. I was reading this thread recently due to a search. I hit my 100,000 miles about 2,000+ miles ago and wanted to replace my PCV and my original spark plugs. Bought my first torque wrench.
So first bought the PCV and can't get the rubber thing off the old one. I've had the PCV out but can't get the elbow piece off of the PCV. What did the rest of you use? WD-40 or something?
Now, I had some Bosch plugs I bought from Autozone which there computer showed as for this car. They had been in the trunk forever. Anyway, a few weekends ago, I decided to finally do the plugs when the engine was stone cold. Well, got the black valve? covers off. Saw the COPs for the first time, sprayed the air can to get any dirt away, and pulled the boots off. (the guy at the stealership told me to replace the boots also...is that necessary?) Used my extension bar to take the first plug out. And the plug was different than the ones I bought. My Autozone lists the wrong Bosch plugs so I had to put everything back together with some dielectric grease and some light antiseaze and torqued to 10 ft pls and buy the right plugs. So I got the XP104s that everyone here likes so much. But are they pre gapped to .054? If not, how do I gap them? I usually always buy pre-gapped stuff. I have the little measureing quarter shaped thing that I used to check the pre-gapped stuff but never had to gap my own. How do I do that? I thought the Iridiam Autolite XP104s were pre-gapped but it doesn't say that on the box?
magindat
11-11-2010, 11:07 AM
NGK TR5 - stock
NGK TR6 - tune and 180 stat
RF Overlord
11-11-2010, 12:02 PM
So first bought the PCV and can't get the rubber thing off the old one. I've had the PCV out but can't get the elbow piece off of the PCV. What did the rest of you use? WD-40 or something?Use a heat gun or a hair dryer to soften the elbow.
But are they pre gapped to .054? If not, how do I gap them? I usually always buy pre-gapped stuff. I have the little measureing quarter shaped thing that I used to check the pre-gapped stuff but never had to gap my own. How do I do that? I thought the Iridiam Autolite XP104s were pre-gapped but it doesn't say that on the box?Plugs really aren't "pre-gapped" as there are so many different applications for the same plug that spec different gaps. It's a good idea to check the gap on every plug you install. You can buy plug-gapping tools at any auto-parts store. They're inexpensive. The only exception to this is Iridium plugs...you shouldn't try to change the gap as the iridium tip is very small and brittle. Just leave them alone.
whd507
05-06-2011, 09:56 PM
http://www.autolite.com/learn_more/autolite_challenge_videos?sele ct_region=1 it has a pretty decent tutorial I made all my employees take. shows how to gap iridiums too...
dwrwebb
05-19-2011, 02:21 PM
http://www.autolite.com/learn_more/autolite_challenge_videos?sele ct_region=1 it has a pretty decent tutorial I made all my employees take. shows how to gap iridiums too...
FYI: that link is dead now...
GreekGod
05-19-2011, 02:47 PM
http://www.autolite.com/learn_more/autolite_challenge_videos?sele ct_region=1 it has a pretty decent tutorial I made all my employees take. shows how to gap iridiums too...
Good link & videos.
What will happen with performance if you use stock plugs and thermostat?
fastblackmerc
05-20-2011, 03:47 AM
What will happen with performance if you use stock plugs and thermostat?
Do you have a tune?
Is the tune customized for colder plugs and thermostat?
If so, use the colder heat range plugs a colder thermostat.
Running colder plugs and colder thermostat allows you to run more timing. More timing = more power.
If you don't have a tune then run the stock heat range plugs and thermostat.
I have a DR tune. I brought the tuner from a member here but I can't say if it is tuned for colder plugs and thermostat. The tuner I have is the Xcal 2. How would I find out if it is tuned for the colder plugs?
fastblackmerc
05-21-2011, 04:37 AM
I have a DR tune. I brought the tuner from a member here but I can't say if it is tuned for colder plugs and thermostat. The tuner I have is the Xcal 2. How would I find out if it is tuned for the colder plugs?
I'd contact DR. Maybe he can tell you.
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