What's everyone doing for aftermark amp signal wire when using stock stereo?

[ReefBlueCoupe]

I've looked around here enough to know that the factory amp signal wire doesn't put out enough power to signal an aftermarket amp to turn on. I found a post where someone built something to convert that wire from 7.4v to 12v, but I do not have the skill to build such a device.

I'm installing an aftermarket subwoofer amp and 2 10" subwoofers.

So what is everyone doing for this?

Thanks.

[magindat]

Used the ignition switched hot from behind the stereo and/or install a switch

[dwrwebb]

I've looked around here enough to know that the factory amp signal wire doesn't put out enough power to signal an aftermarket amp to turn on. I found a post where someone built something to convert that wire from 7.4v to 12v, but I do not have the skill to build such a device.

So what is everyone doing for this?

Thanks.

All new everything...wires included. I assume that if you are changing the amp, you are changing the speakers too? You should, if you aren't. The whole process take a couple of hours I guess. I actually didn't bother on this car, but I did on my GMQ and CV in the past. getting the front door panels off is the worst...
good luck

[ReefBlueCoupe]

I have replaced the four factory speakers already.

I am just installing two 10" subwoofers and a subwoofer amp in the trunk. First post has been edited to clarify this.

[dwrwebb]

I have replaced the four factory speakers already.

I am just installing two 10" subwoofers and a subwoofer amp in the trunk. First post has been edited to clarify this.


what about the head unit and/or changer in the trunk? If I understand it right, you have no changes, except that you replaced the 2 front and two rear speakers. Now you just want to add a mono amp and the two subs? So the head unit is still factory, as well as all wiring? Did you leave the factor sub in place? is it hooked up?

[ReefBlueCoupe]

what about the head unit and/or changer in the trunk? If I understand it right, you have no changes, except that you replaced the 2 front and two rear speakers. Now you just want to add a mono amp and the two subs? So the head unit is still factory, as well as all wiring? Did you leave the factor sub in place? is it hooked up?

That's correct.. factory head unit, four factory speakers replaced, factory sub is still in place. I want to install a mono sub amp and a box with the subs.

I've thought about the changer in the trunk being the easiest ignition/radio hot positive in the vicinity, but I'll be honest, I've never installed an amp/subs before so I'm sort of looking for a handhold in this department as far as the easiest way to go about this particular procedure (setting up the signal wire to the amp). :o I'm good at mechanical work, but inexperienced at car audio.

I think I can handle the initial running of power wire from the battery and grounding the amp, though. I'm going to buy an amp install kit, and line-out converter that I'll use the rear speaker wires to connect to.

[dwrwebb]

That's correct.. factory head unit, four factory speakers replaced, factory sub is still in place. I want to install a mono sub amp and a box with the subs.

I've thought about the changer in the trunk being the easiest ignition/radio hot positive in the vicinity, but I'll be honest, I've never installed an amp/subs before so I'm sort of looking for a handhold in this department as far as the easiest way to go about this particular procedure (setting up the signal wire to the amp). :o I'm good at mechanical work, but inexperienced at car audio.

I think I can handle the initial running of power wire from the battery and grounding the amp, though. I'm going to by an amp install kit, and line-out converter that I'll use the rear speaker wires to connect to.

well, I am at a loss here. As I said before, I installed all new everything in my CV and GM. When I got my Marauder, I decided I wasn't going to mess with it, but did install just the head unit, as it had a port for my ipod. Having not really done much on the MM, I wouldn't want to offer a solution, and have it backfire. From personal experience, changing everything out with higher quality aftermarket audio components makes a world of difference. If I were to do it on this car (and I still might...), I would do it like I did in the past and remove everything, and start from scratch. I know it can be a hassle pulling up carpeting and moldings to run the wire, but in the long run it may be easier and produce better sound quality then rigging new components to the existing stock ones. That's just my two cents though. It was an intimidating task at first, but really it was just tedious labor...not a whole lot of problems, provided you use common sense. Wish I could be more help. Hopefully someone else can tell you a way to "patch in" to the existing setup with relative ease (and good results!)

[ReefBlueCoupe]

That's cool. Thanks :)

[justbob]

I ran a new wire up to the fuse box and tapped a key on fuse of no real importance. Works perfect.

[ReefBlueCoupe]

That sounds like a good idea. What's the best way to attach the wire to the fusebox?

[justbob]

I have done it the "wrong" way all my life without issues. This should royally piss off the stereo gurus here,,,,,,,,I pull out the fuse and wrap the wires carefully around the prong and reinsert. Flame suit on, but it could give a rats azz what others think or their opinions. What has worked for me for 21 years of driving obviously isn't all that bad.

I try to pick a fuse that runs stuff that can blow out incase of an issue and also big enough to supply the amp. Make a small notch in the side of the fuse cover (under dash) for the wire to come out and run to the trunk. This is the only wire that I couldn't use out of the pigtail in the trunk. I believe it was 5v power source.

[dmjarosz]

I used a low voltage trigger. I cant see inside the magic box but Im pretty sure its just a relay that opens a closes with 7.4 volts. I had to tap into a wire that was always hot (cant remember the color) that powers the subwoofer. Everything has worked fine for years.

http://cgi.ebay.com/PAC-TR-4-LOW-VOLTAGE-REMOTE-TURN-ON-TRIGGER-/120599440635?pt=LH_DefaultDoma in_0&hash=item1c14496cfb

This isnt the same one I have but works on the same principle.

[fastblackmerc]

That sounds like a good idea. What's the best way to attach the wire to the fusebox?

Use a Tap a Fuse

http://cgi.ebay.com/ATC-Add-Circuit-Line-Fuse-Plug-Block-Tap-Tapa-TSI-/160445804171?pt=LH_DefaultDoma in_0&hash=item255b50ae8b

[fesifisky]

An aftermarket radio may be the best and cleanest install option. If you replaced the main speakers in addition to adding subs, the stock radio may not be powerful enough to run the main speakers and will make them sound 'muddy'.

Also be carefull when hooking the remote wire to the amp, destroyed a 2200 watt amp when some toolbag from Best best buy insisted on splcing into the 12volt going to the factory radio. Too much juice there and no more working amp.

[Paul T. Casey]

If I ever decide to upgrade anything sound related in the radio system, I'm going straight to Pop's Stereo in Michigan. Quality people with the knowledge that comes from spending all those years putting up with John's crap. :D Seriously, I'd still go there.

[ReefBlueCoupe]

Use a Tap a Fuse

http://cgi.ebay.com/ATC-Add-Circuit-Line-Fuse-Plug-Block-Tap-Tapa-TSI-/160445804171?pt=LH_DefaultDoma in_0&hash=item255b50ae8b

YES! Thanks. Ordered a couple.

I bought an amp kit today, and an adjustable line-out converter. I will eventually replace the factory stereo, but for right now, this will do. Hopefully I don't run into the problems fesifisky mentioned.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-+Amplifier+Installation+Kit/9906519.p?id=1218193799201&skuId=9906519&st=amp%20kit&contract_desc=null

Comes with 20' of cable, and should work fine with my 500w amp.

[ReefBlueCoupe]

Well I decided to use an aftermarket head unit, so I guess thread is moot, for me anyway. Maybe it can help someone else.

RCAs down the driver's side, signal wire and amp power down the passenger side :D

[JoeBoomz]

Well I decided to use an aftermarket head unit, so I guess thread is moot, for me anyway. Maybe it can help someone else.

RCAs down the driver's side, signal wire and amp power down the passenger side :D


I've installed a 1000+ watter into two of my GM's to date (8+hrs install time) and haven't yet tried the Marauder. I found in the GM's that I needed to run the RCA's under the middle in the carpet because they picked up signal noise everywhere else - including going down the driver's side.

You went down the driver's side in a Marauder and I'm curious if you encountered any signal noise. When (if?) I finally put my stereo in my Marauder it would be nice not to have to pull up the carpet again. Are you running a full set of RCA's for speakers and subs or just a set for the subs? If for the speakers, what sort of wattage are your speaker amp(s) running?

[ReefBlueCoupe]

I've installed a 1000+ watter into two of my GM's to date (8+hrs install time) and haven't yet tried the Marauder. I found in the GM's that I needed to run the RCA's under the middle in the carpet because they picked up signal noise everywhere else - including going down the driver's side.

You went down the driver's side in a Marauder and I'm curious if you encountered any signal noise. When (if?) I finally put my stereo in my Marauder it would be nice not to have to pull up the carpet again. Are you running a full set of RCA's for speakers and subs or just a set for the subs? If for the speakers, what sort of wattage are your speaker amp(s) running?

Zero signal noise. I used some Typhoon rca cables from Amazon. $8 for 17' cables.

Kicker 4ga power cable w/ 80amp fuse and signal wire down the passenger side. The channel over there looks like it was made for said power cable.

MTX 6500D 500w amp and 2 Alpine R Series 2 ohm dvc 10" subs.

The RCA's went down the driver's side channel. It was a really easy job doing this install on the Marauder. All the trim just pops away, except for the glove box and trim panel under the steering wheel.

For the ground, I used a ground point that is already in the front of the trunk, and the bolt head is on the back seat side of the trunk. I took that bolt out, sanded down the contact area on the trunk side, and reinstalled it for my ground cable there, along with the existing wire that was being grounded. When I reinstalled the bolt, I stuck it in from the front side instead of the seat side to make for easier access in the future.

[Windsor58]

If I ever decide to upgrade anything sound related in the radio system, I'm going straight to Pop's Stereo in Michigan. Quality people with the knowledge that comes from spending all those years putting up with John's crap. :D Seriously, I'd still go there.

+1 John knows his stuff.

[JoeBoomz]

Kicker 4ga power cable w/ 80amp fuse and signal wire down the passenger side. The channel over there looks like it was made for said power cable.
...
The RCA's went down the driver's side channel. It was a really easy job doing this install on the Marauder. All the trim just pops away, except for the glove box and trim panel under the steering wheel.


AGREED! Panther platform seems to be made for stereos all around and they make for a wicked install base for almost any type of system. If you're willing to pull up carpet for low-level RCA cables, that is ;)

The deep trunk is perfect for huge sub boxes, back seat has enough room on the back side to mount 3 large amps, there's plenty of room on the sides of the trunk for caps and/or second battery, it's an easy trip through the firewall to the battery at the front, and the alternators are usually beefy enough to support a good system!



MTX 6500D 500w amp and 2 Alpine R Series 2 ohm dvc 10" subs.


So I have to ask again - are you driving your 6x9's with separate amp(s) or are you using the amp built into your head unit? You generally won't get any interference from factory wiring unless you're amplifying a low level signal from your deck with another amp before sending it to the speakers in your door and back dash.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

It's even easier to run the power cable on the passenger side behind the front fender, then behind the plastic running board along the bottom, and make it's way into the car at the lower B Pillar by going through the small rubber seals. Then its cake to get to the trunk from there.

A decent ground point is always my concern in these cars back there in the trunk. (I don't like drilling into the car if I don't have to.)

[-Matt-]

I have done it the "wrong" way all my life without issues. This should royally piss off the stereo gurus here,,,,,,,,I pull out the fuse and wrap the wires carefully around the prong and reinsert. Flame suit on, but it could give a rats azz what others think or their opinions. What has worked for me for 21 years of driving obviously isn't all that bad.

I try to pick a fuse that runs stuff that can blow out incase of an issue and also big enough to supply the amp. Make a small notch in the side of the fuse cover (under dash) for the wire to come out and run to the trunk. This is the only wire that I couldn't use out of the pigtail in the trunk. I believe it was 5v power source.


The Radio Gods hate you

[ReefBlueCoupe]

So I have to ask again - are you driving your 6x9's with separate amp(s) or are you using the amp built into your head unit? You generally won't get any interference from factory wiring unless you're amplifying a low level signal from your deck with another amp before sending it to the speakers in your door and back dash.

They are being driven by the head unit. At some point I may amplify them seperately.

[ReefBlueCoupe]

Just a note, and maybe this will help others.

After installing this system, I experienced voltage drop when the bass hit. It wasn't so bad while driving, but a couple days ago I had the a/c and lights on while in traffic, and the votage kept dropping down to below 12v while the bass hit. I had to rev the engine and turn the stereo down to get the voltage back up.

I had already planned on replacing my original alternator and battery, and went ahead and got those items replaced yesterday. The alternator didn't help so much, but the new OEM replacement battery eliminated the voltage drop I was experiencing. So, my battery was a bit weak, which is understandable since it was original and had a 2002 date on it.

Consider replacing your battery if it's old and you are experiencing this problem after installing an amp and subwoofer system.

[JoeBoomz]

A good sub amp will drain your power very nicely ;)

You can get a 1-farad capacitor for the trunk for about $100, or sometimes even cheaper for a good deal that will really help offset this issue.

I always just added a second battery in the trunk but you might want to consider a hefty inline fuse or breaker under the hood if you go this route. You don't necessarily want the starter pulling current from the trunk if your front battery is dead.

[ReefBlueCoupe]

Zero problems after the new alternator and battery!