Foxbody 5.0 Alternator questions

[ctrlraven]

So my stock 75amp alternator finally kicked with bucket with 19x,xxx miles on it.

I'm looking to replace it with a 95amp 3G or 130amp 3G alternator. I can get either one from www.pa-performance.com or go the DIY 130amp stock alternator from the 1994-1995 5.0 Mustang.

Has anyone done one of these upgrades on theirs? I know the power wire has to be upgraded and is anything else needed?

I know some members have or have had Foxbodies.

[J-MAN]

From my personal experience with PA, Mail them a check and don't give a CC number over the phone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[RoyLPita]

Go to a yard and get one from a mid nineties Taurus. Do a Google search on 3G alternator swaps.

BTW, I have one for a future Fox project.

[TFB]

I believe the Taurus alt must be from a 3.0 as the 3.8 mounting is wider, there are articles on several sites... I did the swap on my '88 T-Bird, total cost around $20 with parts from U-Pull-It...

[fastblackmerc]

Get a new one from DB Electrical. Stock (130 amp), or 200 amp, 220 amp or 250 amp.

[ctrlraven]

Well I wasn't going to order directly through PA. lol

I found their kit cheaper on Late Model Resto for $180 and it includes the stator wire which I'll need to go from 2G to 3G. I would just need to upgrade the grounds and power wires which won't be an issue.

I thought about doing the DIY 3G swap and get a new 1995 5.0 alternator but in the end it cost just as much as the PA 130 amp kit that includes a few other things I'll need anyways.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/PA-16196B1/87-93-Mustang-130-Amp-Alternator

Run all new 4 gauge power and ground wires.

[Rockettman]

I'm just about finished my 3G upgrade (this week) on my '91 GT. I'm waiting for my PA upgrade power wire to be delivered.

Cut the original 3 spade plug off. This leaves a stator wire / and two power wires (blk/org). I just spliced in the new stator plug to the existing stator wire; put a crimp type eyelet on the two power wires. Those are your 3 connectors for the alternator. "Notch" the alternator bracket with a grinder or Dremel, and bolt the new alternator in. Connect your new power wire (from PA) back to the battery terminal on the relay (near the battery on our Mustangs), and that's it.
Start 'er up!

BTW: I just got a stock alternator from a junk yard specifying '94-'95 Gt Mustang - 130amp. I asked that they give me the harness that connects it, so I could get the stator plug. It cost me all of $70 with tax in! The PA upgrade cable is acutally more than that.

[Rockettman]

It's all done. Works great. Lowest my voltage gets with everything going full blast is 12.9 at idle! This just would have been impossible before.

[Vortech347]

I've done a million of these conversions.

Walk into autozone, get an alternator for a 94-95 GT. Do not use any of the factory wiring but the plug and stator wire. The main power wire itself replace with a minimum 4 gauge wire. Once again I stress....DO NOT USE THE FACTORY MAIN POWER WIRE. They catch fire/melt when you hook a 3g up to them. Make sire its a 130 amp unit.

You don't need the PA Kit. They overcharge you for everything. Besides nothing beats an autozone life time warranty alt. Have a problem? walk out with a new one. No mailing **** back and forth.

If you need pics let me know.

[ctrlraven]

I've done a million of these conversions.

Walk into autozone, get an alternator for a 94-95 GT. Do not use any of the factory wiring but the plug and stator wire. The main power wire itself replace with a minimum 4 gauge wire. Once again I stress....DO NOT USE THE FACTORY MAIN POWER WIRE. They catch fire/melt when you hook a 3g up to them. Make sire its a 130 amp unit.

You don't need the PA Kit. They overcharge you for everything. Besides nothing beats an autozone life time warranty alt. Have a problem? walk out with a new one. No mailing **** back and forth.

If you need pics let me know.
More or less that's what I'm learning towards doing.

Any pics you have would be great. PM me them to me.

Thanks.

[Rockettman]

Curious:
my voltage guage inside the car still does the "dropping" needle as the car gets hot (maybe not as much as before); but when I check the voltage on the battery with my voltmeter, it's all good!
Is this happenning to anyone else? What gives?

[Rockettman]

***ttt****

[YankeeMarauder]

Hey for what its worth, my son rebuilds stock fox 5.0 alternators and upgades them to 100 amp. For some reason they taught him this in auto tech while in high school, even won a few medals in competition. However, while its a nice talent to have, how many people that have everyday drivers will spend 100 to 200 bucks to rebuild an alternator when they can walk into auto zone and pick one up for $75?

But im just sayin!!!

[Rockettman]

They taught him that so he knows how an alternator works, and with that knowledge he can learn to "troubleshoot". If you don't know how something functions - how can you figure out whats wrong with it?
If you didn't know that pistons were inside an engine - well you get the point.
(Knowledge is Power - as Schoolhouse Rocky used to say!)

[ctrlraven]

On average people who buy rebuilt alternators take them back a few times until they find one that works good. That's why I'll spend the extra money on a new unit with no problems. Factor in time wasted removing/returning/re-installing, money on fuel and wear on vehicle.

Not going to find a brand new 5.0L alternator for $75. lol Maybe $100-125 for a 75amp one. The new 130 amp units go for about $180 from the local auto part stores.