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thirdjoker
10-30-2010, 03:11 PM
I just ordered Addco sway bars for my 2004 Ford Crown Victoria.I also ordered the E/S greasable bushings at the advice of MuscleMerc. I've been reading about everyones suggestion to upgrade to Moog endlinks and followed the link. It does not list my year-but I would be able to use the same ones for the Marauder Right??? MOOG-K80140
What parts are needed to upgrade everything??? Thanks for looking!!

Zack
10-30-2010, 04:08 PM
The MOOG's are works of art. Stockers are ppuny garbage compared to them!

....you do have to take the caliper and rotor off to change them though.

fastblackmerc
10-30-2010, 04:32 PM
That is the correct P/N for the front end links.

You can also do the greasable bushings for the rear sway bar. You use the new bushings with the stock retainer. Drill and tap a hole for the zerk fitting in the stock retainer so it lines up with the spot on the bushing. here are some P/N's:

Greaseable Sway Bar Bushings - Energy Suspensions
Front – 9.5165 or 9.5172
Rear – 9.5161

Front sway bar end links
Moog - K80140
Mevotech – MK80140
Deeza – FOL727 & FOL728
Auto Extra – AXK80140
Raybestos - 5451343

Blackened300a
10-30-2010, 06:30 PM
The MOOG's are works of art. Stockers are ppuny garbage compared to them!

....you do have to take the caliper and rotor off to change them though.

Agreed, They are seriously heavy duty compared to the crappy stockers.

musclemerc
10-30-2010, 07:14 PM
Moog's all the way baby!

FYI the ES bushins for the rear sway bar require a mod to the axle bracket. It's well worth the time to addresse it while your upgrading the suspension.

thirdjoker
10-30-2010, 08:19 PM
Thanks , and Its a great time to do this as I have new brake rotors and pads to go on sitting in the garage. I'll just wait a little longer and when I get the end links and sway bars I 'll do everything at once.I just ordered everything so Maybe by the weekend I'll have everything.I cant wait to drive it.

rayjay
10-31-2010, 05:20 AM
Believe me, you WILL like them... Solid

musclemerc
10-31-2010, 06:44 AM
Thanks , and Its a great time to do this as I have new brake rotors and pads to go on sitting in the garage. I'll just wait a little longer and when I get the end links and sway bars I 'll do everything at once.I just ordered everything so Maybe by the weekend I'll have everything.I cant wait to drive it.

Look's like your going all the way. The Addco's, ES bushins,Moog endlinks, brake upgrades, and a set of my C/A's (I started welding on them) your Vic should feel like it's on rails.

If you have any additional questions please feel free to PM me

thirdjoker
10-31-2010, 11:46 AM
Thats not all:banana2:---- Tommorrow morning going to the local Mustang shop to get my Ford Motorsport 4.10 gears put in:burnout: and I recently finished the J-mod.I also picked up a SCT 3 tuner to compensate for the gears.
I'm deciding on heads-cams& Steeda pulleys=OR just get some forced induction. HMMMMM!!!!!! Just looking for a fun daily driver

fastblackmerc
10-31-2010, 11:48 AM
Thats not all:banana2:---- Tommorrow morning going to the local Mustang shop to get my Ford Motorsport 4.10 gears put in:burnout: and I recently finished the J-mod.I also picked up a SCT 3 tuner to compensate for the gears.
I'm deciding on heads-cams& Steeda pulleys=OR just get some forced induction. HMMMMM!!!!!! Just looking for a fun daily driver

IMHO....

Forget the heads $ cams... too much money for little HP & TQ gain.

Your best bet is forced induction.

My personal preference is a Trilogy kit.

http://www.trilogyintl.com

Jerry will help you out.

thirdjoker
10-31-2010, 12:11 PM
Thanks and I agree-Every where I'm reading forced induction is the way to go.I think I'm going to do more research ( which allows me to save more$ ) before I jump in to that . This forum is FULL of information and I plan to do a lot of reading.

cougar9150
11-01-2010, 10:06 AM
Anyone who has an Addco front sway bar have an issue with the length of the lower stud?

I had to go get a lower profile nut because with the larger sway bar ends the threads of the end-link stud never reached the cinched part of the stover nut supplied by Moog. I still had about an 1/8" of threads (basically the oval locking portion of the nut) left even when it was fully torqued down.

I went to ACE got some shorter nuts with a serrated flange and used blue Loctite instead of the stover nuts supplied with the end links.

Zack
11-01-2010, 10:12 AM
Anyone who has an Addco front sway bar have an issue with the length of the lower stud?

I had to go get a lower profile nut because with the larger sway bar ends the threads of the end-link stud never reached the cinched part of the stover nut supplied by Moog. I still had about an 1/8" of threads (basically the oval locking portion of the nut) left even when it was fully torqued down.

I went to ACE got some shorter nuts with a serrated flange and used blue Loctite instead of the stover nuts supplied with the end links.

No problems here....

rayjay
11-01-2010, 10:19 AM
Yea, installer, Nilles FLM, never said anything either. Fit like a glove my tech said along with wait till you try em :D

cougar9150
11-01-2010, 12:43 PM
Wonder if it's something with my bar or the Moog endlinks I got. On both sides the lower studs were shorter than the stock ones. I got both installed fine now but makes me curious.

fastblackmerc
11-01-2010, 12:48 PM
Anyone who has an Addco front sway bar have an issue with the length of the lower stud?

I had to go get a lower profile nut because with the larger sway bar ends the threads of the end-link stud never reached the cinched part of the stover nut supplied by Moog. I still had about an 1/8" of threads (basically the oval locking portion of the nut) left even when it was fully torqued down.

I went to ACE got some shorter nuts with a serrated flange and used blue Loctite instead of the stover nuts supplied with the end links.

Didn't have a problem with mine.

Krytin
11-01-2010, 03:10 PM
Anyone who has an Addco front sway bar have an issue with the length of the lower stud?

I had to go get a lower profile nut because with the larger sway bar ends the threads of the end-link stud never reached the cinched part of the stover nut supplied by Moog. I still had about an 1/8" of threads (basically the oval locking portion of the nut) left even when it was fully torqued down.

I went to ACE got some shorter nuts with a serrated flange and used blue Loctite instead of the stover nuts supplied with the end links.

Similar problem for me with the Addco front sway bar. I haven't gotten the Moog parts but the oem link stud just barely makes it to the locking portion of the nut on the bar end.

Blackened300a
11-01-2010, 03:14 PM
Wonder if it's something with my bar or the Moog endlinks I got. On both sides the lower studs were shorter than the stock ones. I got both installed fine now but makes me curious.

You install it upside down? I have the addco bar and I didn't have any issues.

cougar9150
11-02-2010, 04:53 AM
You install it upside down? I have the addco bar and I didn't have any issues.

Uh really....:rolleyes: Not sure how or if you could actually do this, and I know I didn't. 90° stud out the bottom connected to the sway bar and the straight (slightly offset) stud through the spindle. Studs are the same length on either end.

Krytin had the same issue with the OEM links so I am guessing it is certain Addco bars. I'll post a pic or 2 tonight just for others to see what I'm talking about along with the thickness of the bar at where the end links mount.