Rear rotor and bracket

[STRAN]

From a phone. Trying to replace rear bearing can't get the 4bolts holding on the brake bracket to come off. Rotor stuck fast. Soaking in penetrating oil.suggestions?

[ntd]

that piece stays, pull the rotor off(hit it as hard as you can with a deadblow hammer from the backside and if you had parking brake shoes they are probably broken know) and remove the axle and there is the bearing

[RF Overlord]

^^^what ntd said^^^

To replace the axle bearing, you have to remove the axle by pulling the diff cover, removing the pinion shaft and removing the c-clip. Axle then slides right out. Use a bearing puller to remove the bearing and seal together.

[fastblackmerc]

that piece stays, pull the rotor off(hit it as hard as you can with a deadblow hammer from the backside and if you had parking brake shoes they are probably broken know) and remove the axle and there is the bearing


^^^what ntd said^^^

To replace the axle bearing, you have to remove the axle by pulling the diff cover, removing the pinion shaft and removing the c-clip. Axle then slides right out. Use a bearing puller to remove the bearing and seal together.
What they said...........

[justbob]

Don't forget to loosen up the ABS sensor a tad so you can slide the axle in to remove the clip.

[STRAN]

Thanks guys, going to try again next weekend armed with more info

[justbob]

Don't over think, this is actually quite an easy job. This can be done on your back in 2-3 hours with basic hand tools (plus rental of axle bearing puller) if it's your first time.

[Chevyguy]

HAHA

Your rotors are stuck to the axle flange!!! Mine STILL wont come off after massive soakings and beatings. I have to replace my parking brake hardware and shoes but the rotors would not budge. They stop straight and true and the axle seals are tight and the bearings are quiet. Any more force or torches will probably destroy the rotors and probably damage the axle bearings or seals. I was reluctant to use a Acetylene torch for those reasons.

A big 3 jaw puller would work to pry the rotors off the flange.

[ntd]

HAHA

Your rotors are stuck to the axle flange!!! Mine STILL wont come off after massive soakings and beatings. I have to replace my parking brake hardware and shoes but the rotors would not budge. They stop straight and true and the axle seals are tight and the bearings are quiet. Any more force or torches will probably destroy the rotors and probably damage the axle bearings or seals. I was reluctant to use a Acetylene torch for those reasons.

A big 3 jaw puller would work to pry the rotors off the flange.


when you hit or pull in it does it move a little then spring back

[Blackened300a]

^^^What they said^^^

I had to literally beat the rotors for 10 minutes when I first removed them.

Basically...
1)Remove rear brake caliper and rotor
2)Remove the diff cover.
3)Remove the ABS sensor bolt and slide the sensor back.
4)Spin the diff around so you can remove the tiny 8MM bolt on the top which holds the shaft.
5)Remove shaft only NOT THE "S" SPRING!
6)Push axle in as far as possible, sometimes you'll have to turn it a little because the back of the lugs will hit the parking brake assembly and hold the axle out 1/4"
7)Remove C clip with pliers or a magnet and slide axle out.
8)You WILL need a bearing puller. I tried the job without one and the bearing just came apart which made for double work removing pieces.
9)Use a oversize socket to reinstall the bearing and seal.
10)If you are using regular gear oil make sure you pick up some friction modifier from your local Ford dealer. Royal purple and a few other synthetic gear oils already have the modifier mixed in. You'll eat up your clutches if you don't have the modifier in the oil.

Takes about 30 minutes for both sides with the right tools. You may also wanna pick up a $5 hand pump from a auto parts store to make adding the oil easier.

[STRAN]

BLACKENED300A
Great info, I was in 'de-nile' over pulling these. I became confused over all the info in the forum and was trying to work with partial instructions I found here. I am thinking a sticky is in order. I have also decided to do both sides, keeping the 3.96 (?) gears. Anything else I should consider while doing these bearings?

[fastblackmerc]

BLACKENED300A
Great info, I was in 'de-nile' over pulling these. I became confused over all the info in the forum and was trying to work with partial instructions I found here. I am thinking a sticky is in order. I have also decided to do both sides, keeping the 3.96 (?) gears. Anything else I should consider while doing these bearings?

I know you meant 3.55 gears...........

Upgrade to 4.10 gears.

[STRAN]

I broke the rented bearing puller. Feeling totaly defeated. That bearing is in there to stay.

[Blackened300a]

I broke the rented bearing puller. Feeling totaly defeated. That bearing is in there to stay.

Which one did you use? It should be one that screws onto a slap hammer. Then insert it behind the bearing and few whacks it should have popped right out.

[justbob]

Mine gave me SERIOUS attitude! I could find a proper fitting adapter in the kit I rented and ended up marring the axle tude a tad. No leaks, so all is good.

Anyways, I know your feeling man. Don't give up, try another tool.

[STRAN]

No slap hammer on this one. it uses a nut and threaded rod to pull it. I have to admit that I rushed, did not think the process thru and consequently broke the rod. The Adaptor plae was to small for the axle tube.

Tried repairing the puller but my drill bits were not up to the task.

What is really annoying is my tools are packed away from the move (we should be moving into our new home at the end of the month, praying to God) so finding tools I need and having a good work space are an issue. I do not have a flat spot to park the car while working on it; goes without saying I am not comfortable about this and yes I have taken plenty of percautions

[justbob]

You are at the worst part of the job IMHO. You really need to rent one with a slide hammer. Mine was a little too big and the other one a little too small... I ended up just trying both (hence the marring) but got it within 20 minutes or so. That sucks, you were almost DONE!

[Blk Mamba]

When removing the rear rotors, I always use the star adjuster to make the parking brake shoes smaller in diameter, and they just come right off, no hammer needed, then when complete, re-adjust the parking brake to the proper size.

[STRAN]

When removing the rear rotors, I always use the star adjuster to make the parking brake shoes smaller in diameter, and they just come right off, no hammer needed, then when complete, re-adjust the parking brake to the proper size.

When I pulled the axle out the rotor is firmly stuck to the axle. So I stood it up on it's studs and have it soaking in PB Blaster. I hesitate to try and beat it off (break somethng else) and if it does not come loose easy I am just going to leave it.

[justbob]

PM sent with my contact info.

[STRAN]

Ha! I repaired the bearing puller and learned how to sharpen a drill bit (sort of). Tonight I will try again.

[STRAN]

Well I broke the puller again.

[Blackened300a]

Well I broke the puller again.

You need the one on a joint that goes behind the bearing and the slap hammer screws into it. You'll be there all week playing with that other puller.

[STRAN]

Man this bearing won't budge!!!

So I talked to AutoZone and I do not have to pay for the busted puller (a Sears tool). YES!!!!
I then rented a puller with a slide hammer as I could not reconize one using a slape hammer (are they the same thing?). Tried it out last night with disapointing resultes, the damn thing didn't even move!! Tonight I am going to use a torch on the axle tube and if that doesn't work I am considering cutting it into pieces with my dermel.

[Blackened300a]

Man this bearing won't budge!!!

So I talked to AutoZone and I do not have to pay for the busted puller (a Sears tool). YES!!!!
I then rented a puller with a slide hammer as I could not reconize one using a slape hammer (are they the same thing?). Tried it out last night with disapointing resultes, the damn thing didn't even move!! Tonight I am going to use a torch on the axle tube and if that doesn't work I am considering cutting it into pieces with my dermel.

Autozone should carry it, its basically a flat piece of steel with a hinge on the back of it with a threaded block that the slap hammer screws into.

[justbob]

Sounds like the one I rented from Autozone.

[STRAN]

I searched the web (during lunch, honest) and found no images that match that discription. This is what I am using right now.

[fastblackmerc]

Don't think that would ever work.............

The bearing races are harden steel.

This is what you need:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEIKO-AUTO-REAR-AXLE-BEARING-PULLER-REMOVER-SET-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem25 6109c4b3QQitemZ160541820083QQp tZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

Or this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rear-Axle-Puller-Set-w-Slide-Hammer-Flange-Bearing-OEM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem56 416e6cb8QQitemZ370464943288QQp tZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

Or this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rear-Axle-Puller-Set-w-Slide-Hammer-Flange-Bearing-OEM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem56 416e6cb8QQitemZ370464943288QQp tZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

[GreekGod]

I have found that even with the correct puller that fastblackmerc linked to, they can be very difficult to remove.

======================

[Joe Walsh]

This can be done on your back in 2-3 hours with basic hand tools....if it's your first time.

OK.....I haven't seen a: "That's what she said!!" in at least a week.

Doomie where are you?



BTW: Good luck pulling that stuck bearing.

[STRAN]

Hey hey hey now no distractions! And thanks but I think I am to the cut it out stage.

[STRAN]

Don't think that would ever work.............

The bearing races are harden steel.

This is what you need:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEIKO-AUTO-REAR-AXLE-BEARING-PULLER-REMOVER-SET-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem25 6109c4b3QQitemZ160541820083QQp tZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

Or this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rear-Axle-Puller-Set-w-Slide-Hammer-Flange-Bearing-OEM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem56 416e6cb8QQitemZ370464943288QQp tZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

Or this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rear-Axle-Puller-Set-w-Slide-Hammer-Flange-Bearing-OEM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem56 416e6cb8QQitemZ370464943288QQp tZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

The first one is like the one I broke, twice, the other to look to be the same and appear and are basicly the same thing I am trying now.

[Blackened300a]

The first one is like the one I broke, twice, the other to look to be the same and appear and are basicly the same thing I am trying now.

The first one is what I used and I had no problem popping both bearings out. Did you spray penetrating oil inside the axle tube?

[justbob]

I used the first as well. I just kept repositioning it because the fitment wasn't quite right. After they came out it was clear sailing.

[STRAN]

Success!!!

I cut the bastard out. After I did that the problem became obvious. Someone intalled a bearing (incorrect?) that had a 90 degree flange over the lip of the axle tube. I did not notice this, hey it was dark and my eyes are not what they use to be. I think my efforts to remove the bearing flared it into a larger diameter sticking it in place. I damaged the axle tube slightly but used a gasket sealer to 'fill in' the damage, so far no leaking. I plan on posting a picture of the mangaled bearing. I installed one of the Timken (soft axle repair?) bearings, it is deeper/longer. The two pinion gears had fallen out when I was trying to reamove the C-clip on the axle, (try not and let this happen) took me a while to figure out how to get them back in. So it sounds great, no axle noise, and no leaks so far.

I plan on buying a used axle housing in the future and do a complete rebuild of it and incorporate the upgrades I have read about.

Thanks for the help guys!!

[justbob]

Awesome man! Don't worry about the marred tube, mine is as well and is dry as could be. Those gears are kinda fun to rotate back in huh? LOL Glad YOU did YOUR own repair! Feels good doesn't it?

[STRAN]

Oh yes it does. I am use to working on my own cars but tend to draw a line on certain tasks. Bearing replacement is one of them so yes it was great to push the enevlope and eventually succeed. It was great to finally see those gears roll in! And that Dremel is a great tool to have in my arsenal, can't say how many times it has gotten me out of a 'tight' situtation.

[GreekGod]

...I installed one of the Timken (soft axle repair?) bearings, it is deeper/longer...

I plan on buying a used axle housing in the future and do a complete rebuild of it and incorporate the upgrades I have read about.

My axle builder told me he doesn't like the "Timken (soft axle repair?) bearings". I had one go bad, and replaced both of them with regular bearings & seals.

The used housing rebuild is a good idea, that I also am planning. The toughest parts for me was the Watson link nut removal (requires a 3/4" drive socket & breaker bar), and re-installing the housing.

[STRAN]

the Watson link nut removal (requires a 3/4" drive socket & breaker bar),

What, where, the heck is that?

[RF Overlord]

I think he meant Watt's Link...

[fastblackmerc]

The toughest parts for me was the Watson link nut removal (requires a 3/4" drive socket & breaker bar), and re-installing the housing.


The Watts link keeps the rear axle centered.

Watson link? Been watching too much Jeopardy.

I got mine off with a 1/2" impact socket, 3' long breaker bar and a pipe on the end of that. I think it's torqued to 200+ ft pounds.

[GreekGod]

Yes, Watts link!...

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/../gallery/data/500/Watts_linkage1.gif Watts_linkage1