Cam Swap Info?

[musclemerc]

I'm looking for information on doing a cam swap on a 32v engine. I've researched the topic and got mixed results, so while I'm waiting for Zack to get back with me on what he thinks I figured I would ask some of the senior member's for their input.
Can we do a cam swap with the timing cover still intact? I will be doing a DOT-to-DOT install and not degree them, some say yes, some say no. Which is it?

I will be doing this mod very soon with a set of 97 intake cams, a P&P intake with 10-1/2" runner's, and a 62mm~65mm TB.

:burnout:

[Blackened300a]

I'm looking for information on doing a cam swap on a 32v engine. I've researched the topic and got mixed results, so while I'm waiting for Zack to get back with me on what he thinks I figured I would ask some of the Senior Member's for their input.
Can we do a cam swap with the timing cover still intact? I will be doing a DOT-to-DOT install and not degree them, some say yes, some say no. Which is it?

I will be doing this mod very soon with a set of 97 intake cams and a P&P intake with stock 15" runner's.

:burnout:

Im almost positive you'll have to remove the front cover to remove the bolts holding the cam gears and to install the tool that holds the cams in place. Plus you may wanna swap out the tensioners while you are in there and that requires removing the cover anyway.

[RacerX]

Cover has to come off. Cover, release tension on tensioners, primary chains, cam bolts, primary gears, secondary gears and chains, intake cam. (Got da t-shirt mang!) :)

[musclemerc]

Start at post #59 on page#3

http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?t=110104&highlight=98+cams&page=3

[RacerX]

I know what he's saying, but, being in there, I just didn't find it possible. I actually had my covers and cam bolts off two months ago and was going to put my cloyes cam gears in and just couldn't without removing the timing cover. There just wasn't enough room or slack to get everything off from just the top. FYI, Todd's an awesome, knowledgeable, helpful guy, but, I was the one that clued him in on the fact that the Cloyes cam gears will MAX at 4deg adv or ret. He thought there was a lot more adjustability. :beer: I may try it again in the spring. Maybe there's a way to pull enough on the primary chains to get just enough slack to get it over that primary gear. What a pita!!! There was something that prevented me from getting the primary gears off with the cahin... I can't remeber if it was the TC or what... Hmmmm.... I have pics at home...

[RacerX]

I stand corrected, looks like Modularspeed does it. Hmmmm... I'll try it again.

"You only need to pull the driver side primary gear, just slightly out. The pass side, nothing needs to come all the way apart. You can just about do it without removing anything except the cam bolts, and the bolts that retain the secondary tensioners."

"Ahhh, makes sense. You can get to the passenger secondary tensioner to compress and lock it, but driver side is not gonna happen with the primary gear on."

"Disassembly is always very easy. I assume it would be for this also. The problem I think would come into is the setting the cams in correctly and lining them up right. Also do you have to adjust the valves?"

"If you do it smartly, you never remove the gears from the chains, on the primary AND the secondary chains. Plug and play.

No valve adjusting necessary. Pull the cam out, pop the new cam in the gear....lay cam down and carefully re install caps."

[musclemerc]

Modularspeed actually did the dyno and proved the gains with just a bolt in install, tuned and untuned (looks like untuned made more HP) so I'm gonna take him for his word that it is doable with the cover in place. Now if your gonna degree them then the cover has to come off to install new wheels. I don't think he even had to bring it up to TDC to do the swap. Bolt and go!

20HP for a $125.00 investment HA!

[Blackened300a]

Please document the process of your installation. It may be something I would consider doing in the future. I like lopey cams so I would go all out if I took the plunge.

[musclemerc]

^^You know I can't do this mod and not do a write up! Prolly the best bang for the buck mod considering the cams can be had on the cheap.

[burt ragio]

Where is the 25 hp gain in the rpm range ? If it were such a great mod might other members have done this mod since 2003-04. Keep use posted on yor findings.

[musclemerc]

^^ This mod is old news Burt you gotta get out to a few more modular sites and see what others are doing with these engines. The link I posted has the dyno info, it's not 25hp it's 20hp gains are all across the rpm range but the biggest gain is from 5000~6300prm


Courtesy of: Modularspeed
First pic...baseline pull, Cam Swap tuned:
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m188/99atlbluegt/NEW%2098%20BUILD/Cobra%20Intake%20Cam%20Swap/kellie1.jpg

Second, Cam Swap untuned VS. Cam Swap Tuned:
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m188/99atlbluegt/NEW%2098%20BUILD/Cobra%20Intake%20Cam%20Swap/kellie3.jpg

[justbob]

Interested BIG TIME. Not for the power, but the lope... Obviously need a retune?

[LANDY]

Obviously need a retune? i would think so, just to get the best out of it.
with this mod i can see an N/A mm hitting the 12s.

[musclemerc]

I wonder if the rules would apply on the open bet for N/A 12's?

Where's Fordnut when you need him?

Stock bottom end, stock top end, the 96 bumpsticks are OEM...

[burt ragio]

Wow those are impressive numbers. What's the difference in cam grind ?

[ImpalaSlayer]

I wonder if the rules would apply on the open bet for N/A 12's?

Where's Fordnut when you need him?

Stock bottom end, stock top end, the 96 bumpsticks are OEM...

yes it meets the requirements.

T, why dont you degree them? when i talked to my tuner about cams he said its highly recommended to take the most advantage

[musclemerc]

^^ I agree Dave, that is the ideal way to do it for maximum gains, but 20hp is alot for bolt in and go. I can always get a set of gears and degree them at a later date. If the engine was on a stand I would DEFINATELY degree them

[ImpalaSlayer]

^^ I agree Dave, that is the ideal way to do it for maximum gains, but 20hp is alot for bolt in and go. I can always get a set of gears and degree them at a later date. If the engine was on a stand I would DEFINATELY degree them


true, i just hate doing things twice. pulling the cover shouldn't be hard really

[FordNut]

Might go slower...

[musclemerc]

:banana: I got a UPS delivery today. My cams have arrived and they are in perfect shape. I ordered new cam bolts too so when they get here the 96 cam install will begin. :burnout:

[Dennis Reinhart]

I'm looking for information on doing a cam swap on a 32v engine. I've researched the topic and got mixed results, so while I'm waiting for Zack to get back with me on what he thinks I figured I would ask some of the senior member's for their input.
Can we do a cam swap with the timing cover still intact? I will be doing a DOT-to-DOT install and not degree them, some say yes, some say no. Which is it?

I will be doing this mod very soon with a set of 97 intake cams, a P&P intake with stock 15" runner's, and a 62mm TB.

:burnout:


Why ask when you have the expert opinion, here is mine that is shared with allmost every other modular motor builder I deal with, big cams in a S/C automatic do nothing but destroy every day driving, sure at WOT the power is there at idle they SUCK, destroying idle quality, if you are are running boost big cams are not needed, but me being a novice here what do I know, but I just thought I would express my opinion and I respect yours.

[musclemerc]

:lol: You think a stock cam is considered to be a BIG CAM? :shake:

And by the way I asked about install tips with the covers intact so where is the EXPERT opinion?

[ImpalaSlayer]

:rofl: you didnt know 96 cams gave that 396 big block ss lopy idle?

[FordNut]

Why ask when you have the expert opinion, here is mine that is shared with allmost every other modular motor builder I deal with, big cams in a S/C automatic do nothing but destroy every day driving, sure at WOT the power is there at idle they SUCK, destroying idle quality, if you are are running boost big cams are not needed, but me being a novice here what do I know, but I just thought I would express my opinion and I respect yours.


:lol: You think a stock cam is considered to be a BIG CAM? :shake:
?

I don't think he has a SC...

I know what you mean Dennis, the '96 cams make power higher in the rpm's than the stock cams. Big heavy cars need torque down low, so even if it pulls good up top the car will be a pig because it can't get off the line.

[musclemerc]

^^Not really. If the cams are advanced they will make alot more TQ down low compared to the stock cams. I'm set on ordering the Cloyes cam gears and keyways so mine will be advanced 4*.

Even if I wanted to do the Dot-to-Dot method alot of Cobra guy's are putting in taller gears and a slightly higher stall to compensate for the lost TQ from not advancing the cams.

Here is a link of an install with the motor in place with the timing cover intact, he did not advance them:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/mach-1-156/760575-cobra-cams-install.html

[massacre]

^^Not really. If the cams are degreed they will make alot more TQ down low compared to the stock cams.


^^^ I think you confused degreeing with advancing.

To degree the cams, you are setting them up "straight up", as a baseline, and also to make sure that the two banks are perfectly synched together. Using that measurement, then you advance the intake cams from that baseline however many degrees.

Advancing the intake cams will in effect lower the powerband slightly and promotes torque production.

When I first started looking into degreeing cams, everyone told me I was nuts, waste of time & money, etc. Now, 5 years later everyone's doing it.

To DR:
This is an N/A mod only. Installing these cams in a boosted motor would absolutely be the wrong move, you're totally right about that.

[musclemerc]

Why are you posting in my thread Dennis?

You made it so I cant post anything in your forum without being banned,
so please play by the same rules you expect from me before you start posting in my threads.

Your post will be deleted by the Admins.... You have been warned!

[musclemerc]

^^^ I think you confused degreeing with advancing.

To degree the cams, you are setting them up "straight up", as a baseline, and also to make sure that the two banks are perfectly synched together. Using that measurement, then you advance the intake cams from that baseline however many degrees.

Advancing the intake cams will in effect lower the powerband slightly and promotes torque production.

When I first started looking into degreeing cams, everyone told me I was nuts, waste of time & money, etc. Now, 5 years later everyone's doing it.

To DR:
This is an N/A mod only. Installing these cams in a boosted motor would absolutely be the wrong move, you're totally right about that.

I'm sorry, glad you caught that one. Yes I meant to say advance, not degree. I had it right in my second sentence for some reason it came out wrong.

Back to the degree/advance thing.

To start our timing setup is made with alot of chain. This by design will not be 100% accurate as a base, the factory was allowed a fudge factor that allowed them to get away with being off in some cases up to, and well beyond 6* between each cylinder head. This is why degreeing them in with a wheel is a MUST. If you just bolt on a set of cams the specs will be way off, look at it like this if your car came with a 2* advance discrepency from the factory between the 2 sides, then add a set of cams and advance them 4* your way off, one side will be 4* advance (the sweet spot)the other will be @6* advance due to the 2* discrepency from the factory

This is why EVERYONE is advised to buy 4 sets of Cloyes gears and keyways. 2 will be needed to get the 4* cam avance, 2 MAY BE NEEDED to get the car to -0- depending how far off the chains are from the factory

I've been up all night compiling info and talking with Zack about kmastl's MM so if my info is wrong here is a link from last nights conversation, na_svt chimmed in.

I going to get more coffee :sleepy:

http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1376705#post1 376705

[massacre]

I just responded to that Mach1registry thread.

[BigCars4Ever]

I would be terrified that the chain may slip off of the crank. Last 4.6 I did valve seals on I pulled the cover and used zip ties to cinch the chain around the cam and crank sprockets so I wouldn't have to mess with the aligning the timing dots. How much more lift is a 96 cam?

[BigCars4Ever]

Did a little reading. Looks like the cams have the same lift but another 15 deg of duration. Who's TB are you going to use?

[Blackened300a]

Ill just say that I shall NOT be attempting this. JDM told me that they make custom cams and degree everything. Ill save my cash and hand them the car. It looks way too involved for the little bit of HP gain.

[musclemerc]

Did a little reading. Looks like the cams have the same lift but another 15 deg of duration. Who's TB are you going to use?

I would like an Accufab but if I have extra cash I would push for the billetflow. 60mm~65mm would be OK

[musclemerc]

Zack just got done doing the 96 cam swap on Kmastl's MM. He did the install and then advanced the intake cams 4*. No problem's with the loss of TQ down low, and SOTP gains across the board.

Kmastl, looks like your gonna have a pretty potent N/A combination.

http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1379203#post1 379203

[RacerX]

Travis, you got my msg about flipping the DS cam and keeping the woodruff key in the 4deg retarded if it was facing the same way as the DS cam gear. Hence the timing dots on both sides! ;)

[musclemerc]

Yes I got it. PM me your number Bill so we can talk. I gotta get my desk cleared so I can mod my MM.

That makes sense on doing one in reverse. So If I need 2* advance the DS 2* then retard the PS 2* and it will all equal out. I guess the PS runs in a reverse rotation?

[massacre]

Why did he remove the heads to install the cams?

[RacerX]

Once you flip the gear, both gears, ds with concave side facing you ps convex side facing you, will have the keyway @ the same position as if both concave sides were facing you... :D In other words, you flip the ps gear over, but, use that dot for advancing/retarding just like the other.

Rob, he was trying some new head hydo therapy... :D

[kmastl]

Can't wait to get it back. Hopefully going up there with bodyman on Sunday.
I will post the dyno numbers when I get it done.

[kmastl]

Why did he remove the heads to install the cams?


If you are talking about zack. Then it's because my ps head was destroyed.

[RacerX]

If you are talking about zack. Then it's because my ps head was destroyed.
Oh snap! That's right! I forgot you had the bad head too! Kept thinking it was just the cam gear install!

[massacre]

If you are talking about zack. Then it's because my ps head was destroyed.

Sorry to hear your head was destroyed.

[musclemerc]

Can't wait to get it back. Hopefully going up there with bodyman on Sunday.
I will post the dyno numbers when I get it done.

I got the feeling your gonna be VERY SATISFIED, Zack has been boosted for year's. If he say's "this is the fastest N/A Marauder he ever drove" then thats saying alot.

I gotta admit, I'm a little jealous but mine will come soon enough.
Please, do the dyno tune and make sure he does a tunned ~VS~ untunned dyno sheet. You and I can see which combination yeilds the most TQ with the 96 cam's, being you have LT's and I have Shorty's.
:burnout:

[RacerX]

BTW! Anyone that gets the cams, be careful!!! Don't trust whoever sold them or your machine shop as to which cams are which!!! For Ford at least. Try and get the cam bolts with the cams too. If you look in the Ford numbering system stamped in each, this is the key:

Passenger Intake Cam F6ZE-6A270-AA
Passenger Exhaust Cam F2LE-6A272-AE
Driver Intake Cam F6ZE-6A271-AA
Driver Exhaust Cam F2LE-6A273-AE

0, 1, 2, 3 PI, DI, PE, DE
Can't go wrong.

This is from Todd's posting elsewhere:
F6ZE6A270AB and F6ZE6A270AB are the engineering numbers which both equate to part #F6ZZ-6250-AA. it is a 96-98 4V right intake cam (PS- Passenger Side).

F2LE6A272AF and F2LE6A272AE both equate to F3LY-6250-C which is a 96-99 4V right exhaust cam (PS-Passenger Side).

Aslo courtesy of Todd (Thank you!):

Mach 1, 03/04 Cobra, Aviator, Marauder, Navigator
Intake: 184 deg @ .050/.397" lift Exhaust: 196 deg @ .050/.397" lift
114 LCs

96-98 Cobra
intake PN#s
F6ZE-6A270-AB crosses to F6ZZ-6250-AA
F6ZE-6A271-AB crosses to F6ZZ-6250-BA
Intake: 202-204 deg @.050/ .397 lift
Exhaust: 196 deg @.050/.397 lift
114/114 LCs

99/01 Cobra
Intake: 200 deg @.050/.397 lift
Exhaust: 196 deg @.050/.397 lift
114 LCs

FR500 (M-6550-T46)
intake: 212 deg @.050 /.472 lift
exhaust: 208 deg @.050 /.472 lift
109 LCs

GT Cams: (actual as tested numbers, not Ford specs)
Intake: 189 @ .050"/.424 lift
Exhaust: 190 @ .050"/.448" lift
The centerline is up for debate as this set tested at 122/118 but I think Ford states the LCs as 114/114

Cobra R specs:
Intake: .515'' lift 212 deg dur @.050
Exhaust: .468'' lift 212 deg dur @.050

P.S. Cloyes Part #'s, Cloyes Gear: S790HP9
Cloyes Woodruff Key: P9139
You need two of each, one for each intake valve and four of each if you want to change the exhaust cams also.
BTW! If anyone has noticed, the exhaust are the exact same for Cobra and Marauder cams. You will not gain or lose anything by keeping your existing exhaust cams. Not to mention, that's two less cam bolts you worry about. Our cam bolt size is: m10x1.5 and the Cobras are: m12x1.5

Cam Gear Instructions (These don't usually ship with the product):
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/showfull.php?photo=18821
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/showfull.php?photo=18822

If anyone is interested in overlap, duration, etc., this will give you a visual idea of what's going on. Enter stock duration numbers, print out the page, enter advanced/new cam numbers, print that page out, overlay the two pages and hold them up to a light. http://classictiger.com/mustang/CamChart/CamChartCandDr1.htm

[musclemerc]

Here is another cam swap on a 4v engine. It looks like 20HP/22TQ is the baseline for doing a Dot-to-Dot install. These wer just bolt in, non degreed and non advanced.

The graph is originally posted by Modularspeed:

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5224/5595573607_0a29ebb950_b.jpg

It's a good time to be N/A.
Guy's like Nick McKinney, Modularspeed and NA_SVT are on the frontline comming up with potent N/A combination's that are on the cheap, and they're backing it all up with dyno result's.

Here is an 4v engine Nick from Modularheadshop (http://www.modularheadshop.com) is preparing to build:
http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?t=112989

[RacerX]

Slow poke! Mine have been in almost a year. Spoke to Todd over a year ago. :D You still haven't put me on the na top numbers list. :alone:

[musclemerc]

Ohhhhhh.....
I know you did your's a year ago. I believe I may have even found the cams for you but, your dyno number's did'nt get you to the top of the list.
I know for a fact you have found out what was wrong and fixed it, but then you go Eaton Swap before a redoing the dyno WTH?
Got rid of the PSRI and all the other N/A goodie's after 1 failure. :shake:

Try, try, again! LOL! :P

Now you gotta give me number's for the S/C list so we can prove Eaton w/98 Cobra cam's plus all the P&P work you've been busy doing. ;)

[RacerX]

I have a dyno sheet na that's above others on that na list... It's even stronger now NA, but, we all want more now don't we? ;) BTW! Here's another good link for anyone interested. SOHC and DOHC towards the middle of the page: http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8823/8823CH03_Timing_Chain_and_Gear s.htm

P.S. The only failure was less HP and TQ gain than I expected. 360 crank HP and being able to run over 6k rpm strong is a win in my book. Not bad for my first ever engine teardown and build all by myself...

More pretty diagrams and instructions for 4.6l DOHC engines: http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-6004-A464.pdf

[BigCars4Ever]

Here is another cam swap on a 4v engine. It looks like 20HP/22TQ is the baseline for doing a Dot-to-Dot install. These wer just bolt in, non degreed and non advanced.

The graph is originally posted by Modularspeed:

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5224/5595573607_0a29ebb950_b.jpg

It's a good time to be N/A.
Guy's like Nick McKinney, Modularspeed and NA_SVT are on the frontline comming up with potent N/A combination's that are on the cheap, and they're backing it all up with dyno result's.

Here is an 4v engine Nick from Modularheadshop (http://www.modularheadshop.com) is preparing to build:
http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?t=112989
Don't know if you caught this but the run with stock cams was at 65 deg f and the 96 cams was at 86 deg f. There could have been another couple of hp if the second pull was at the cooler temp.

[na svt]

Most cammed automatic mach 1s and marauders perform poorly and that's because the off-the-shelf specs stink; too much duration, high intake LCs, wide LSAs. I would never install an intake cam in a Marauder with a LC higher than 108...never. In fact, if the duration is too long to get the required PTV at a 106LC they would not be used at all, not even at a higher LC.

According to Ford the stock LCs are 114/114, but those that I've checked are closer to 118/111 (on average) which is terrible for tq but great for mileage. I've found that degreeing even the stock cams to 108/114 can increase tq by 20ft lbs while not hurting HP. I've seen 03/04 cobras pick up 35ft lbs with the stock cams at the same lobe centers.

Nothing improves driveability of a heavy automatic trans car like a boost in tq and ensuring the cams are the optimum LCs ensures the combo is making the most tq possible.


I don't think he has a SC...
I know what you mean Dennis, the '96 cams make power higher in the rpm's than the stock cams. Big heavy cars need torque down low, so even if it pulls good up top the car will be a pig because it can't get off the line.
Cobra cams installed at a 108 lobe center will make both more tq and hp than a stock cammed combo.

The peak hp gains are minimal when degreeing/advancing the cams, but the further the away the cams are from their optimum LCs the higher the gains will be. IMO the real benefit of degreeing, and especially advancing the cams is the hp/tq gain prior to making peak power (under the curve). Below is a good example of degreed/advanced vs undegreed dot-to-dot (stock intake, no headers):

http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/3598/cobracamsundegreeddegre.jpg (http://img703.imageshack.us/i/cobracamsundegreeddegre.jpg/)


This is an N/A mod only. Installing these cams in a boosted motor would absolutely be the wrong move, you're totally right about that.
Cobra cams installed at 110 are a great FI mod, I've seen big gains. You can add another 15 degrees to the intake cams before the exhaust cam duration must be increased.



That makes sense on doing one in reverse. So If I need 2* advance the DS 2* then retard the PS 2* and it will all equal out. I guess the PS runs in a reverse rotation?
no.

[RacerX]

I think Travis realises that the cam gears are relative, both sides have marks, you would be advacing both 2° in the same direction, just the ps gear is flipped (which I don't remember having to flip the PS cam gears, but, that's what someone in the engine at the time said had to be done).

[musclemerc]

Thats correct Bill, I kept your PM after you, Todd, and Zack figured the PS gear out.

BTW Thanks Todd for chiming in, it's good to see you post over here for a change. Keep'em comming Brother

Reguards,

Travis

[RacerX]

Degreeing

4-Valve Camshafts

Required Tools:
· Ford service tool # T93P-9589-AH (camshaft lock tool)
· Ford service tool # T93P-6256-A (camshaft positioning tool)
· Dial indicator with 4” extension
· Screw-in post for dial indicator
· Positive-stop tool
· Solid valve adjuster
· Timing wheel
· Pointer

1. Install the camshafts in the cylinder head. Use assembly lube on camshaft journal surfaces. Check that the proper camshaft is in the correct location. You can check the Ford part numbers stamped on each. Torque the camshaft caps using the Ford torque values and pattern.
2. With the number one piston at TDC (Top Dead Center), attach the secondary camshaft gears and short chains, matching the copper colored links to marks on the gears. Do not install the camshaft keys. Ensure the camshaft keyways are pointed down.
3. Use Ford positioning tool T93P-6256-A to locate camshafts by inserting tool into the slots in the rear of the camshafts. Some aftermarket camshafts may or may not have these slots.
4. Install the primary gears and chains, matching the copper colored links to the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft gears. If there are no marks on the chains, pull each chain tight in a line and mark the opposite two links.
5. Lock the camshafts with the camshaft lock tool and torque with the camshaft bolts to 95 ft lbs.
6. Check the valve adjuster preload. Using a collapsed valve adjuster, check the preload by installing the valve adjuster and a rocker arm. With the rocker arm touching the camshaft base circle, mount the dial indicator so the extension rests on the adjuster end of the rocker arm. Zero the dial indicator, and using the rocker arm installation tool, cycle the valvespring up and down. Without the rocker arm losing contact with the camshaft, measure the range of valve adjuster preload. The correct range of preload is 0.040 to 0.080 in.
7. Install the timing wheel and pointer, set it to TDC.
8. Rotate crankshaft clockwise 90° and install the positive stop tool in the number one spark plug hole.
9. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until you reach the stop and record the number displayed on the wheel.
10. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until you reach the positive stop again and record the number displayed on the wheel.
11. Split the difference and move the timing wheel to the center of the range of movement. For example: If the first reading was 42° BTDC and the second was 44° ATDC, the wheel should be moved so each end of the range of movement reads 43°. The wheel is now centered. Check the readings in both directions one more time and remove the TDC tool.
12. Install the solid adjuster and rocker arm on the number 6 cylinder exhaust lobe.
13. Set the dial indicator extension on the valve retainer, and then zero the indicator.
14. Rotate the engine clockwise until 0.050 of valve opening is measured. Record the valve opening number observed on the degree wheel.
15. Continue rotating the crankshaft, measuring the total valve lift, and stop the rotation of the crankshaft when the valve is within 0.050 inches of the seat again. Record the valve closing number.
16. Using the camshaft lock tool, lock the camshaft and loosen the cam bolt.
17. With the camshaft still locked in place, rotate the crankshaft to the desired closing point. There is a range of 3-4° available with the slop in the camshaft gear key and the camshaft. If you need to move the camshaft more than the amount available, grind the integral key on the primary exhaust gear to allow a greater range of adjustment. Or install Cloyes adjustable cam gears. Parts #s: Gear: S790HP9 Woodruff Key: P9139 Two of each are needed for intake and four if adjusting exhaust cams as well as intake cams.
18. Torque the camshaft bolt to 95 ft lbs and remove the lock.
19. Check open and close points as before and adjust as necessary.
20. Once the exhaust camshaft is degreed in, you can move to the intake camshaft, since the exhaust camshaft drives the intake camshaft. Any change in timing on the exhaust camshaft will require adjusting the intake camshaft.
21. With cylinder number 6 timed, move over to the passenger-side cylinder head, setting up on cylinder number one. The intake camshaft on the passenger side cylinder head will lag behind as the tensioner is compressed. It is necessary to hold the tensioner in the extended position, simulating the engine in a running condition, in order to properly time the passenger intake camshaft. Complete the checking and adjusting process, as previously done on the left head, and then you are finished.

This is the Ford numbering system stamped in each cam, the actual part numbers will vary in engines and carry over to new numbers as some become obsolete:

Passenger Intake Cam F6ZE-6A270-AA
Passenger Exhaust Cam F2LE-6A272-AE
Driver Intake Cam F6ZE-6A271-AA
Driver Exhaust Cam F2LE-6A273-AE

0 being PI-Passenger Intake
1 being DI-Drivers Intake
2 being PE-Passenger Exhaust
3 being DE-Drivers Exhaust

[musclemerc]

Thanks for the post Bill.

You just made this thread a sticky ;)

[na svt]

I recommend the centerline method which takes less time and is much more forgiving.

[CBT]

this has turned into a very info rich thread :beer:

[RacerX]

Todd, as usual, your wealth of knowledge is highly appreciated and someday, if we ever meet, I'll buy you a few beers or dinner. :beer:

[musclemerc]

I recommend the centerline method which takes less time and is much more forgiving. See attachment.

I also attached a .pdf showing part numbers for the stock cams.


Todd, as usual, your wealth of knowledge is highly appreciated and someday, if we ever meet, I'll buy you a few beers or dinner. :beer:

+1

Todd, I need you to keep posting. The more you hang out and post others will benefit from your knowlege.