Ported lower intake or short runner

[Youngblood]

In the process of building a na motor for my marauder. I've got high flow heads, high lift cams, as well as a few other goodies and now I'm curious about our lower intakes. I see tons of Stang Guys cutting open and porting our lower intakes and actually getting some good up gains. Now also I've seen guys use the short runner intakes on cobras and such . I know our upper will bolt right up but what would give me better power ported stock or a short runner. In know longer runners give more power in the lower end which makes me lean towards going ported. Because with our cars we need that lower end power to get off the line. If any one has gone with either let me know . I'd love some input. I've heard of around 30hp gains when it comes to doing the lower intake or so people say. Seeing some dyno numbers would be nice. I just want to squeeze as much hp as I can when doing this motor while still staying na.

[RacerX]

Ported/polished heads, port matched/polished plenum. You lose lower tq to gain higher rpms and HP. If you don't run it at the track a lot, don't go with short runners. I sold my NAZ PSRI and put the stocker back on (port matched). Here's the before and after:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/579/SAE_5_Smooth.jpg

[Blackened300a]

I didnt gain much as far as peak hp, but it did smooth out the curve in the higher RPM.
I also didn't lose any time off my 60' after the install. Not worth the cash, but if you go for it make sure you get one with a thick gauge of aluminum on the bottom and a good weld otherwise they will howl and the bottom pan will crack under vibration. Some SCed guys actually blew the bottom pan off under boost.

[Youngblood]

I was considering getting an extra lower and cutting it open and porting it. Instead of wasting money on a shorty. I'm sure every little bit will help. Does naz still do lower intake porting?

[SID210SA]

Naz has dissapeared....made a lot of people mad.....however....BadFiveO is happy with his NAZ long runner set up.

[RacerX]

Don't mention the N word on the internet... (No!) You good with a Tig and aluminum? :) That's a lot of work just to port. I would open up the topside intake holes, clean them up a bit, port match the openeings to the heads, smooth out the runner as far as you can reach with the tools and leave it at that. Other than that, sc that biatch!

[babbage]

I was considering getting an extra lower and cutting it open and porting it. Instead of wasting money on a shorty. I'm sure every little bit will help. Does naz still do lower intake porting?

I wouldn't cut it open. Send your lower off to http://www.gethoned.com
It will be ported and polished in one step. There is also a guy on corral or svt that is an expert at doing the lowers by hand.

Extrude hone gets where a tool can't -- totally polished and ported all at once. I haven't done this yet but plan too.

[musclemerc]

If your going to do an intake you should not go with a short runner. You need the TQ. I would also advise you to not do an extrude honed intake either, it has a tendacy to remove material in places that should be left untouched. Contact na_svt on either modular forum he has alot of knowledge and can also help with your cam degree spec's while your at it.

[Youngblood]

Thanks for the info. I'm on svt performance and have seen a guy selling ported lowers and it seems like he does really nice work. Either im going to port and polish myself or so what he charges. He cuts them open and does the entire thing. I'm def going to port match everything . My fr500 heads should be here in a few days and have brand new 03 04 cobra cams and springs. Which I'll be selling to get a set of high lift cams and springs.=)

[RacerX]

"Extrude hone" That's the word I was looking for! Thanks Eric. Lots of different choices. If I knew what I know now back when I bought the car, I would have spent every dime immediately on a new engine, beefier drivetrain and a freekin Whipple...

[babbage]

If your going to do an intake you should not go with a short runner. You need the TQ. I would also advise you to not do an extrude honed intake either, it has a tendacy to remove material in places that should be left untouched. Contact na_svt on either modular forum he has alot of knowledge and can also help with your cam degree spec's while your at it.

Hmm, I was going to do a "level 1" hone job. So I'm not sure how much it will remove. Got a link or something that shows it removes material where it shouldn't? Where'd you see that tidbit?


"Extrude hone" That's the word I was looking for! Thanks Eric. Lots of different choices. If I knew what I know now back when I bought the car, I would have spent every dime immediately on a new engine, beefier drivetrain and a freekin Whipple...

I am staying N/A so I'm not going all out. I'll get a beater car with a cage before I take the MM "too far" :burnout:

[SpartaPerformance]

I'd go with porting the factory intake but avoid the short runner. I was a bit disappointed with Blackened300A's dyno numbers also vs what the maker of the intake claimed. His power band was smoother but I'd bet that it would have made more torque down low with the longer runners.

[Joe Walsh]

I wouldn't cut it open. Send your lower off to http://www.gethoned.com
It will be ported and polished in one step. There is also a guy on corral or svt that is an expert at doing the lowers by hand.

Extrude hone gets where a tool can't -- totally polished and ported all at once. I haven't done this yet but plan too.

+1!

With "Extrude honing" the abrasive media that is pumped through the intake automatically
removes the most material from the most restrictive areas.

I had my intake Extrude honed and it came back looking like it had polished runners!....:bows:

A word of caution:
Depending on how much they Extrude Hone your intake, it will open up the runners and may cause a port mismatch where it bolts to your cylinder heads.
I had to port match (open up) my cylinder head intake ports to avoid a 'lip' that would have caused lots of turbulence as the intake port transitioned into the cylinder head's port.

[Youngblood]

So I've been back and fourth and adding up Prices for porting and extra bolt one to beef up my na marauder. Screw it. I'm just Gunna go with an eaton swap. I'm assembling a motor in my garage soon once all my parts come. I'll have a stock short with 40k. Brand new ford racing fr500 heads with all new Valves springs and cobra cams. My Plans now are to get all my eaton swap parts together and do the swap when I pull my high mileage motor. I know if I spend all this money on na parts I won't be happy. So now the eaton parts search begins. Now I'm on the hunt for an eaton kit for my merc. Thank you eveything one for your help and input. It's greatly appreciated. Now it's time for boost >=)

[Joe Walsh]

So I've been back and fourth and adding up Prices for porting and extra bolt one to beef up my na marauder. Screw it.
I'm just Gunna go with an eaton swap. I'm assembling a motor in my garage soon once all my parts come. I'll have a stock short with 40k. Brand new ford racing fr500 heads with all new Valves springs and cobra cams. My Plans now are to get all my eaton swap parts together and do the swap when I pull my high mileage motor. I know if I spend all this money on na parts I won't be happy. So now the eaton parts search begins. Now I'm on the hunt for an eaton kit for my merc. Thank you eveything one for your help and input. It's greatly appreciated. Now it's time for boost >=)

Oh heck ya!

Knowing what I know now, and knowing how much I spent to make my N/A Marauder fast.....
I'd have saved my money and first bought a Trilogy S/C kit, bolted it on to my stock engine, had a very good dyno tune done (Lidio),
and then run the livin' crap out of it until the OEM engine expired.

[RacerX]

^^^ Yup! What Joe said and like I said in post #10! If I knew now... :D SCFTMFW!!!:banana2:

[musclemerc]

I learned this by picking NA_SVT & Modularspeed's brain about intakes. This is also said on many modular forums.


Hmm, I was going to do a "level 1" hone job. So I'm not sure how much it will remove. Got a link or something that shows it removes material where it shouldn't? Where'd you see that tidbit?



+1!

With "Extrude honing" the abrasive media that is pumped through the intake automatically
removes the most material from the most restrictive areas.

I had my intake Extrude honed and it came back looking like it had polished runners!....:bows:

A word of caution:
Depending on how much they Extrude Hone your intake, it will open up the runners and may cause a port mismatch where it bolts to your cylinder heads.
I had to port match (open up) my cylinder head intake ports to avoid a 'lip' that would have caused lots of turbulence as the intake port transitioned into the cylinder head's port.

^^^What he said

[dohc324ci]

If your going to do an intake you should not go with a short runner. You need the TQ. I would also advise you to not do an extrude honed intake either, it has a tendacy to remove material in places that should be left untouched. Contact na_svt on either modular forum he has alot of knowledge and can also help with your cam degree spec's while your at it.

Todd NA_SVT is on here as well and can port for you as well; there is another guy over at Mach I registry I forgot his name but if you do a search he will pop up.

[FordNut]

Ported or extrude honed stocker. And if you're going to do it yourself, you don't have to cut and weld, just pop the "freeze plugs" off the bottom of the manifold. I think they're an odd size so you'll have to search a bit to find replacements after the porting is done.

[musclemerc]

That would be Roy.


Todd NA_SVT is on here as well and can port for you as well; there is another guy over at Mach I registry I forgot his name but if you do a search he will pop up.

+1 on the DIY here is a link with the correct part number's
http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?t=27715


Ported or extrude honed stocker. And if you're going to do it yourself, you don't have to cut and weld, just pop the "freeze plugs" off the bottom of the manifold. I think they're an odd size so you'll have to search a bit to find replacements after the porting is done.

[Chevyguy]

Someone on CVN cut the lower open

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e179/Frankwhite07/DSC01015.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e179/Frankwhite07/DSC01014.jpg

http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2219464&page=3

[dohc324ci]

eh....let the pro's do it; 400-600 is what the going price for a ported; 8-900 for a PSRI.

[Youngblood]

Or spend the same money for an eaton supercharger =) which I just did and will be here next week . I'd hate to spend 600-1000 for a ported intake to gain maybe 30 hp max. Looks like I'm going to the dark side

[dohc324ci]

^^Sweet! 500-600 for an Eaton a wise move;)

[RacerX]

Hehe! How much for what? :)
Eaton, intercooler, plenum, TB, TB plenum, Injectors, IC pump, IC tubing/piping, IC brackets, Gortch brackets, Alt pulley, IC resevoir, heat exchanger, crank pulley, MAFia, FP, KB BAP, what am I missing??? ;)

[Youngblood]

Well of course not everything for 600 lol . Instead of buying a Intake and then paying 600 or so to have it ported plus shipping and the cost of extra intake I decided to spend my money more wisely. I just made the first step to getting my eaton swap going. For 800 I'm getting a mint eaton with 22k miles . Complete with elbow, throttle body, sensors, Lower intake, heat exchanger, intake tube, all hardware and some other misc parts. I know have a ways to go but atleast I'm on my way