my classic car issues [Archive] - MercuryMarauder.net Forums

jerrym3

03-05-2011, 07:09 AM

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Warning: long post for old car lovers.

Last summer, my Galaxie started overheating on the highway, but cooled off in traffic.

So, I brought her to a mechanic who said it's either a blocked radiator (which it was), bad hose, water pump, or thermostat.

He also found that the timing was way, way, way off, so he recommended changing the timing chain. (Motor compression was OK, but not the best, at 112,000 motor miles.)

But, after he timed her, the car felt like it had a new motor, so I decided to go for the timing chain, even though the car has a bunch of other issues.

I found a mechanic who specializes in old Fords, and was willing to do the job in my garage at my pace, which was very important because I decided to paint the motor Old Ford Blue with a paint that requires two weeks to cure before restarting the motor.

So, I pulled the carb, valve covers, water pump, surge tank, and radiator. He pulled the timing chain and cover and distributor. Timing gear was shot.

I painted the intake manifold, water pump, and timing chain cover. I installed a re-cored radiator, new valve cover gaskets and wires, He installed the timing chain gears and distributor. We got new belts and a 160 degree thermostat (which I have since changed back to a 180; no heat with a 160). I had the re-cored radiator and the surge tank painted by a professional, high gloss black.

So, after sitting in the garage for about 5 weeks, we started her up.

Car ran very rough (my bad, I forgot to reinstall the intake manifold vacuum line to the trans), and, here's the bad part, we hear a knock in the motor way in the back, down low (nowhere near the work we did on the timing chain).

He did a lot of scoping with a stethoscope to try and locate the noise (which gets softer when you increase the revs.) He can't pinpoint it.

Went to another Ford old timer with a repair service. He can't pinpoint it either.

So now I have a great running motor with a knock that no one can diagnose without major cost.

Unfortunately, the car has a lot of other expensive repair issues (leaky trans, tired interior, and a rusty trunk and frame (frame's been rusty since before 1980; still rides pretty good (X member is solid) with no visible sagging or line up problems).

Now I have to worry if I can depend on her, especially for the long September trip to the Wildwood, NJ, classic car show.

Can't see spending upwards of 6-7K (motor, interior, frame repair) on a 213,000 mile car (motor was changed years ago), but she's been mine for 42 years.

Look around and, excluding family, do you see anything that you've had for 42 years?

Right now, my plan is to wait for this miserable winter to end, and take her to the guy with the shop and let him drop the oil pan and check the crank.

Any advise appredciated.

thathotrodlincn

03-05-2011, 01:01 PM

What engine?

snapon!

03-05-2011, 01:13 PM

Double check plug wires to firing order ( listen for erratic cranking speed also )

SGT_MERC

03-05-2011, 01:43 PM

Motor pic comes out very small, but from what I see, it looks good.

jerrym3

03-05-2011, 03:13 PM

Motor: 352-4V (FE block), reg gas, 250 HP, auto, 3:50 rear. All stock, Holley carb (rebuilt)

Plug wires checked out. Motor runs nice except for the knock.

Also, with the scope, the noise is very loud at the fuel pump, but without the scope, it's coming from the back.

First, he thought wristpin, but he says that the wristpin noise would get worse as the revs go up, not quieter.

Underneath, putting your finger at the back of the oil pan (while running), you can feel the knock. Move your finger forward on the pan by five/seven inches (still staying at the deep part), and the knock feel less.

Blk Mamba

03-05-2011, 04:37 PM

Is it piston slap, maybe a piece of a piston skirt broke off, it will be laying in the oil pan, if so.

jerrym3

03-05-2011, 05:31 PM

BlkMamba

Would that give a knocking noise that has a constant rhythm?

When at idle, the knock/sound is constant.

knock/knock/knock, not knock.......knock, knock........knock

Brought it to a frame guy for an estimate. As soon as he said "body off", the conversation ended.

FastMerc

03-05-2011, 05:48 PM

Classic cars are costly thee days to redo if you love them do it if not give it to someone who will. But are your flywheel bolts all tight?

Blk Mamba

03-05-2011, 05:59 PM

Yes, I would think so, and you said that it is louder at idle, than at RPM, which I have seen before. Drop the oil pan, and see what's in there, as far as the flywheel bolts, that would be easy to check.

jerrym3

03-06-2011, 05:35 AM

Flywheel bolts were checked.

Pan is the next thing to do, but the motor has to be raised to remove the pan.

frdwrnch

03-06-2011, 07:24 AM

Verify the fuel pump is not the source. I've been bitten by that before. The eccentric on the front of the cam gear can become loose or out of position, the pump lever itself can get some slop in it as well. Some noise will be normal as heard through a stethoscope as the lever moves up and down. If you have access to a low pressure electric pump you can take that variable out all together and still run the engine to see if the noise is still evident.
Remember, all of 'em can be fixed. Some just take longer and cost more than others.

Larry Durham

03-06-2011, 07:36 AM

jerrym3

03-06-2011, 09:42 AM

Will do on the pump suggestion, (which I hope it is).

I know sound travels, but, by ear only, why does the knock sound like it's way back in the block?

This motor used to be very quiet prior to the work we did. (I was even planning to pick up a new set of Galaxie 500XL seat covers and have them installed.)

I figure at my age, 68, I can squeeze a few more years of old car shows before the kids take my keys, but I need to trust the motor. I'd like to hit 45 or maybe even 50 years of ownership.

(Going to a 90th birthday party today for my wife's aunt who still drives a dark blue Crown Vic police car "look alike". Great to watch the reaction as she drives that car down the highway. She drives a bunch of senior citizens to church every Sunday.)

FF1077

03-09-2011, 01:32 PM

Doesnt the fuel pump eccentric come in a one peice design and a two piece design for that engine?
I seem to remember there being a washer needed. The dowel has be long enough to engage the eccentric as well.
If you dont have it bolted on correctly, or dont have the right one, that could be your problem.

Seeing how you didnt have the knock until after this timing chain change, its something to think about.

jerrym3

03-10-2011, 07:04 AM

Another mechanic listened to the knock yesterday. Good guy, not pushing me for business. (He was the first guy to tell me the timing chain/gears needed replacement, and wasn't p***ed at all when he didn't get the job.)

He suggested that (maybe) the additional compression gained after the chain/gear replacement did some damage to an already weak motor (110,000 miles). Some cylinders went up 25 lbs.

Sounds plausible (I guess), but I can't help but wonder why the knock didn't occur after he first timed her, only after we did the chain?

Seems like the concensus so far is that repairs will require that the motor be pulled.

One guy suggested, if I intend to keep the car, get a new long block, killing two birds with one stone; replacing a weak 352 with a rebuilt 390.

As long as she runs, I have no intent of ever selling this car, but I also don't want it to become a big money pit. Car still has frame issues (too expensive to repair, but runs/rides OK), needs new 500XL seat covers ($1,000 est), and other nickel/dime stuff.

Factoring in sentimental value (42 years), what would you do?

Dragcity

03-10-2011, 08:12 AM

How's those rear bearings on the crank?

How's your oil pressure back there?

Did you check the backlash on the cam and crank when you replaced the timing parts?

Did you check all the plugs and make sure you are getting a good burn in each of the cylinders?

Skirts breaking is pretty common in those 352's.

I have 487,000 miles on the 390 in the '65 T-Bird. Runs really bad, has for years, but runs.

fastblackmerc

03-10-2011, 08:13 AM

Factoring in sentimental value (42 years), what would you do?

"sentimental value (42 years)"

I think that quote should answer your question.

jerrym3

03-10-2011, 11:03 AM

How's those rear bearings on the crank?

Don't know; haven't dropped the pan yet

How's your oil pressure back there?

Don't know

Did you check the backlash on the cam and crank when you replaced the timing parts?

No, motor wasn't knocking before we did the timing chain

Did you check all the plugs and make sure you are getting a good burn in each of the cylinders?

Plugs look good

Skirts breaking is pretty common in those 352's.

I have 487,000 miles on the 390 in the '65 T-Bird. Runs really bad, has for years, but runs.

Just had the hydraulic control valve resealed, and now we find the power steering cylinder has too much play; bushings are good.

FF1077

03-10-2011, 11:09 AM

Watch Craigslist and find someone with a 390 that you can hear run before they pull it. Or buy something with a running 390 in it (truck) and have it put in.

The question I would ask is are you ever going to want to sell it and get your $ back? What would be better, having it driveable or watching it leave or rot in your driveway?

If you put a good engine in there now and it lasts another 42 years.......

Pops

03-10-2011, 11:25 AM

Join this web site! It is the Ford FE site and you can get plenty of help. Motors and parts are also to be found in the Classified section,

http://www.network54.com/Index/10214

Dragcity

03-10-2011, 11:29 AM

At first blush, it sounds like and R&R to me. I would pull the tired old byrd out of there and get the block & crank to machining, re-fit heads with hardened valves and order new cam, pushers, lifters, pistons, rings and up-sized bearings all around.

The block did not crack in the over-heating episode, did it? Any water in your oil? Those 60's engines did not like to go over 40,000 miles so much. I am very certain my 390 needs the same treatment. I am surprised it has not quit onme. It is loose as a greased goose. I know the oil pump was replaced at least three time in it's life. Chews through oil in record time. I don't even change the oil, that is how much I need to add every tank of fuel.... Poor thing.

Good luck with that 352.

prchrman

03-10-2011, 11:43 AM

harmonic balancer, check it out, notorious for knock like a rod on 352-428 engines.

jerrym3

03-10-2011, 02:09 PM

No oil in antifreeze.

Would a bad balancer cause a knock from the rear?

Car would not sit and rot. It'd be sold or parted out. Lot's of good parts and some used stuff in storage. Can't just park old cars in crowded north Jersey. Police would come knocking after a while.

Bad thing is that I have to hire someone for the heavy stuff. (One guy just estimated a long block at $2,200 and about 18 hours of labor to remove the old motor, strip the parts off the old block that are needed, install them on the new one, and install the new motor. Figured 3K+?

After 42 years, and 170,000 miles (she had 46,000 when I bought her; about to turn 213,000 miles), I've got my money out of her.

I'll join that site.

FF1077

03-10-2011, 06:29 PM

I wish you lived in my neck of the woods. I would do the work for free. Well maybe for lunch. :beer:
Working on a classic like that would be a privilege and a relief. Almost like working on my 65 Comet again. No sensors, crazy wiring or cramped quarters.

Thread Hijack, I have a 390 stored away that was in a truck. The person I bought the truck from said that when he had the clutch replaced the mechanic offered to trade him a low mileage 390 for his engine. The mechanic said that it was a 410 out of Mercury. The owner had bought the truck from his brother, who replaced the engine in the truck, but he thought it was out of a Mustang. Can I tell from the part # what it is and what it came from?

69428SCJ

03-10-2011, 07:09 PM

Whoever told you a grand for new seats is jerking you around. You can get an ENTIRE, COMPLETE interior kit from http://www.dearbornclassics.com/ for $2600. I'm about to embark on a Guardsman blue 64 XL myself...I'm pretty excited!

jerrym3

03-11-2011, 06:19 AM

From the Dearborn catalog:

front/rear 500XL seat covers.....$449

bucket seat padding....$150

4 seat emblems...........$80

installation.................? ?

Total ..........$679 plus installation/shipping

Pops

03-11-2011, 08:37 AM

From the Fe site! Seems like a good deal to me.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/75943/thread/1299812389/Rebuilt+390+for+sale

FF1077

03-11-2011, 11:14 AM

Installation isnt that difficult, you can do it yourself.
You will need some hog rings and hog ring pliers.
Remove old cover, install new padding, cover padding with a plastic bag and new seat cover slides on easily.
Pull the plastic bag out and use the hog rings to close the cover up.

jerrym3

03-15-2011, 06:44 AM

Pops, my mechanic and I went to look at the motor.

From what he could see, looks like a real quality job. But, the motor has never been run, and there's obviously no warranty.

This would be a no-brainer if my Galaxie didn't have other serious issues. Just might do it anyway.

Doing one more test on my old motor today.

Took it to an engine rebuilder yesterday, and he couldn't pinpoint the knock either. (That's four excellant mechanics that are all puzzled, especially the way the knock just popped up after a six week garage sit.) Pulled the plug wires one at a time, and the knock did not change.

But, he agreed that the knock is very loud when scoping the fuel pump, so he suggested pulling the pump clear. and running the car for a short while on the has in the Holley to see if the noise goes away.

Got nothing to lose.

Pops

03-15-2011, 06:46 AM

If you buy it take it to the mechanic and have him check things before you install it. Most of the guys on the FE site are pretty honest. Good Luck!

jerrym3

03-15-2011, 09:47 AM

Pops

Mechanic was with me when I went to look at it. He was impressed with the quality of the parts, and said he'd buy it if he had a car right now that needed a motor.

I don't think the seller's dishonest at all, but he openly admits that neither he nor the builder have ever heard it run.

jerrym3

03-15-2011, 01:26 PM

Pulled the fuel pump No difference.

Pulled a valve cover on the noisy side of the block. Can't tell anything with the naked eye.

With a piece of wood as a scope, noise is loudest at the back bolt (firewall) on the rocker arm.

jerrym3

03-15-2011, 05:08 PM

Bought the block. Picking it up Saturday.

With engine painting, etc, it's going to take a while to get the whole job done.

Wish me luck!

Pops

03-15-2011, 06:38 PM

Take your time and it will be fine. You should also join the other site as you can get plenty of help!

jerrym3

03-16-2011, 05:37 AM

Pops

I plan to do what I can at a nice, retiree, leisurely pace.

But when my mechanic is working on the tough stuff, time becomes a $$ issue.

Perfect timing, weather's warming up, and the car shows have not yet started.

Heading back down to Hirsch in Newark nest week for some old Ford engine spray paint. With the new block out, I can paint areas where I could not get to on the old block in the car.

Looking forward to the results. With a two week waiting time for the paint to dry, probably going to be a four week project.

snigalfriz

03-16-2011, 12:02 PM

Find the issues and fix them at a "comfortable" pace.

Pops

03-16-2011, 12:05 PM

Post pictures as you go! Ta know I love old Fords with FEs!!!!:)

jerrym3

03-17-2011, 05:52 AM

http://s1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/Galaxie%20motor%20project/

Block waiting for pickup this Saturday.

jerrym3

03-18-2011, 09:03 AM

My daughter's boyfriend wanted to know if I'm going to run this car at the Englishtown 1/4 mile with the new motor.

Gotta love this young man.

I figure with a real "torquey" motor, one full throttle jab from a standing start, and this car might twist like a pretzel.

Krytin

03-18-2011, 10:03 AM

I'd be interested to see what you find in the pan. If the cam cear was nylon/plastic coated and all or most the teeth broke off it, typical for the mileage on the motor, the teeth are in the screen of the oil pump pick-up (ask me how i know!).
This would result in low oil flow/pressure and give you a dry knock at one or more of the furthest points from the oil pump. Noise would get quieter as rpm increased.

Good luck with the project and keep those old Fords on the road!!!

jerrym3

03-18-2011, 06:19 PM

Krytin

I agree, and there was some of the plastic coating missing from the gear.

But, the car had no knock, even though the gear was already bad, until we opened up the motor, replaced the bad gear, and started her.

Why weren't the pieces cutting off oil pressure sooner?

Beats the heck out of me.

I'll let you know what we find.

Anyway, good reason to get a 390.

Krytin

03-19-2011, 06:43 AM

Sometimes just touching something makes things shift around.
You WILL be happier w/the 390!!

jerrym3

03-20-2011, 05:14 PM

We (mechanic and I) picked up the new motor yesterday using his Econoline pick up, but this was no ordinary Econoline.

It had a 302 with hollywood mufflers.

Sitting in that car with the motor almost in the passenger compartment and the mufflers blasting did wonders for my tinnitus (ear ringing).

Had a slight heart attack when I checked the casting block numbers on the new block (C6ME-A). According to Ford specs, the motor could have been a 410 or 428.

But, then I learned from the FE experts that you can't really rely on those numbers, and the past owner confirmed that the stroke was 3.78 (390 specs).

Anyway, for a short time, I thought I might have had a 428 block Came down to earth real quick.

69428SCJ

03-20-2011, 07:25 PM

You know the 427 has the same stroke as a 390 ;)

thathotrodlincn

03-20-2011, 07:27 PM

I remember the FE having a timing chain.

jerrym3

03-24-2011, 05:21 AM

Motor delivery in a 302 powered Econoline.

That's not me in the picture. I'm older.

http://s1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/Motor%20delivery/

jerrym3

03-25-2011, 08:01 AM

Doing a final prep tomorrow for engine pull Tuesday evening.

Need extra manpower. My garages are on the side of my house and my driveway is on an incline.

I'd rather not wind up knocking on my neighbor's door and asking them if they'd mind if I removed my motor and hoist from their backyard.

Could rig up a come-a-long, but I still have to get the hoist/motor uphill into the next bay. Besides, I've got enough bodies lined up to assist.

jerrym3

03-30-2011, 11:58 AM

Well, she's out.

http://s1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/motor%20deinstall/

Pops

03-30-2011, 12:05 PM

Looks good!

jerrym3

03-30-2011, 04:50 PM

It's going to take some time before we can install the new block.

Need to clean up all the greasy stuff and freshen up the engine bay.

Plus, the engine paint I bought is supposed to be applied above 60 degrees (like that's ever going to happen soon with this miserable winter), and the paint needs two weeks to cure before starting the motor.

I still have to find a pwr steering cylinder (leaking) and a driver's side exhaust manifold (cracked).

Finding them isn't the challenge; finding them at a decent price is a little bit trickier.)

To Be Continued.

jerrym3

04-01-2011, 10:29 AM

Anybody ever hear of this product?

ZDDP

Recommended for new motor breakins.

69428SCJ

04-01-2011, 02:34 PM

You will need that in your oil if you're not using modern tappets and lifters otherwise it will deteriorate them. Modern oil has eliminated that additive because engines now use roller lifters. I use Valvoline Racing oil in all of my older cars, and especially in my two galaxies and Eliminator. Maybe that might've helped cause the noise????

de minimus

04-01-2011, 03:13 PM

jerrym3

04-01-2011, 04:37 PM

Very interesting.

Sounds like ZDDP should be added to my rebuilt 390.

69428SCJ

04-01-2011, 06:35 PM

Without a doubt!

jerrym3

04-13-2011, 05:44 AM

Slow going waiting for some parts to arrive.

Giving serious consideration to painting the firewall body color instead of redoing the black (I repainted it satin black years ago).

Anyone have a good source for original color aerosol sprays?

Spending a lot of time inside the engine bay cleaning almost 50 years of grease and crud. I may never get my hands completely clean again. (Ex: removed the horns and spent almost two hours preparing one horn for repainting.)

Took off so many little pieces to get at the greasy spots that I'm wondering if I'll ever get Humpty back together again. Glad I have the Ford illustration/parts manual.

But, having a great time.

jerrym3

04-15-2011, 05:30 AM

Update

Block came out nice

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/installation%20update/0406111942.jpg

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/installation%20update/0406111939.jpg

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/installation%20update/0409111530.jpg

jerrym3

04-15-2011, 05:32 AM

getting the firewall back to factory Pagoda Green is going to be a challengs.

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/installation%20update/0414110846.jpg

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/installation%20update/0414110847.jpg

Pops

04-15-2011, 05:39 AM

Its looking good! Are you going to put an aluminum intake and 4 barrel on it? The 390 looks nice and I like the valve covers. Doom would be proud!!!!:cool:

jerrym3

04-15-2011, 08:58 AM

Motor's staying stock, except for chrome covers and air filter.

Using the manifold and Holley 4 barrel off the 352.

jerrym3

04-24-2011, 06:38 PM

Finished the engine compartment today. Hers's a few "before/after" pics.

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/firewall/0330111259.jpg

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/firewall/0424110921.jpg

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/firewall/0414110847.jpg

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/firewall/0414110846.jpg

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/firewall/0424111234.jpg

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/firewall/0409111530.jpg

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/firewall/0424111206.jpg

Pops

04-25-2011, 06:15 AM

Looks nice!!!!

jerrym3

05-15-2011, 12:14 PM

Changed some galley oil plugs that were weeping.

Unless we get rained out, tomorrow's motor install day. Got five guys lined up to maneuver the hoist and that heavy FE block up the incline into my garage.

Decided to repaint the underhood along with installing the new padding. (The engine compartment is going to make the rest of the car look shabby.)

Then, I'll finish up up under the hood (radiator and shroud, clutch fan, surge tank, carb, linkage, battery, top all fluids, etc), and we'll turn the key next Saturday.

Can't say I'm not nervous.

LeoVampire

05-16-2011, 09:07 AM

I miss the days of having an old car and doing all of this to it!

Hat is off to you and it looks like it is coming out great so far. :beer:

jerrym3

05-17-2011, 07:46 AM

Thanks, Leo.

Motor's in and bolted up. Took all five guys to maneuver that monster, but since they only used one hand (they had a beer in the other), maybe it was only 2 1/2 men. (Where's Charlie Sheen when you need him?)

Anyway, now it's up to me to finish everthing up so we can turn the key Saturday, again, weather permitting.

Hard to believe this project started last November with an overheating and timing chain issue on the old 352/250 block.

LeoVampire

05-17-2011, 11:41 AM

jerrym3

05-20-2011, 09:41 AM

I've completed everything that I could.

I decided to leave the grille off rather than take a chance on scratching it should issues come up that need attention.

Big day tomorrow.

Stay tuned.

jerrym3

06-07-2011, 05:25 PM

Well, we installed the block, started her up, and discovered a bad oil leak towards the back of the block.

Motor sounded good, didn't push her, but she leaked almost a quart of oil during the first 100 miles. So, back in the garage she went until personal schedules cleared up.

Rear main or galley plugs, most likely.

Motor's coming out tomorrow.

LeoVampire

06-08-2011, 10:00 AM

jerrym3

06-09-2011, 12:08 PM

Took the block out yesterday. Turned out to be weeping galley plugs. Looks like the ding/dong that rebuilt the motor installed the new plugs with a screwdriver and hammer instead of a punch.

We changed all the plugs, and all the leaks went away.

Put the block back in. Drove her today. Running a bit warm, but it was 100 degrees here in north Jersey today.

No leaks.

Yes !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!

Now, I have a rear end leak, but that's nothing compared to what I just went through.

Car turned 213,000 miles today.

Here's some before, during, and after pics.

http://s1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/Finishing%20the%20install/

Pops

06-09-2011, 12:19 PM

Glad you got her fixed!

jerrym3

06-28-2011, 05:03 AM

Found another leak.

Most of the leak had stopped, but there was still a small oil puddle and dripping off the back of the oil pan, driver's side.

At first, we thought it was a bad oil pan, but that was not the case.

Turned out to be a poorly installed crankshaft rear main bearing seal (driver's side).

Lowered the oil pan, filled the gap with high temp silicone, let it cure overnight, started it the next day, and no more motor oil leaks.

Hope this is a permanent fix. Doesn't appear to be in a high pressure location.

Still have two problems.

For some reason, the car has trouble hot starting. Pops, cranks, and has to be "coaxed".

Advance the distributor slightly, starts right up.

Next day starts fine (cold), runs decent, but, again, has trouble starting hot.

(Car has a new vacuum advance.)

Also, fairly responsive on the highway, but, holding Low gear and giving it more and more gas from a dead start, car doesn't want to respond. You would expect a slow, gradual increase in RPM's and, eventually, hearing the 4 barrel open, but this doesn't happen.

Advise?

Krytin

06-28-2011, 06:08 AM

Check the one thing you know is different - the new vacuum advance.
Try unplugging it and see how it responds. Also check where it is getting vacuum from - ported vacuum or direct manifold vacuum.

Is the rest of the distributor the same as before and why was the vacuum advance replaced?

jerrym3

06-28-2011, 09:58 AM

Tested the old advance with the "drinking straw" approach. No resistance at all. Changed the advance.

Everything else in the distributor is the way it was when it was in the old 352 block.

Cap and points are good.

Vacuum line goes from the distributor vacuum advance to the Holley carb.

Krytin

06-28-2011, 01:00 PM

Sounds like you have the right vacuum source.
I would still try unplugging the advance/plug the vacuum line and see if that has an effect on the hot start problem.
The low gear/lowend lack of response may be not enough initial advance on the timing - try bumping 5 degrees more BTDC. If it's set @ 10 degrees BTDC make it 15 BTDC. This might also help the hot start problem.

jerrym3

06-28-2011, 04:23 PM

Will do.

Krytin, since I'm using the all the pulleys off my 352 on the new motor, a 66 390 from a TBird, is there any chance that there's an incompatibility issue? (Both are Ford family FE blocks.)

I guess I'm asking, are the timing marks in the same location on both engines?

Krytin

06-29-2011, 07:06 AM

I couldn't say for sure about your combo (I think what you have should work) but if you set the #1 piston @ TDC on the compression stroke the timing indicator can be "adjusted" to read TDC on the degree marks on the damper/balancer. There should be no broblem w/the degree scale.

Setting the motor @ TDC w/heads on is not easy but can be done. It requires removing the valve cover to observe the intake/exhaust valves to confirm that the #1 piston is coming up on a compression stroke. With the spark plug out you can use a wooden or plastic dowel to feel for the top of the piston and gauge when it has reached the top of it's travel - you may have to go back and forth past TDC to exactly locate it but if you chalk the degree wheel on either side as you go back and forth you can "bracket" in exact TDC! There is a tool that is made for this that screws into the sparkplug hole but for your situation the dowel should let you know if your combo is working or way off!

I would still try and bump a little more advance into the timing first to see what happens.

Good luck and great job keeping and oldie but a goodie on the road!

jerrym3

07-05-2011, 05:41 AM

Some July 4th parade shots.

http://s1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/July%204th%202011/

Hot day, didn't reach halfway on the temp gauge on a very warm day.

Starting up OK now, idle's a little "jumpy", but OK.

The applause from parade watchers makes it all worth while.

jerrym3

10-24-2011, 09:05 AM

About 1,000 miles on the new 390. Feels pretty peppy when nailed, Holley 4V really roars, but stock 390's in heavy Galaxies aren't that quick anyway. 3:50 gears help, but become a pain on interstates.

Car just turned 214,000 miles. In Jan 2012, I will have owned her for 43 years.

Next big decision, new 500XL seat covers. Mine are starting to split, tear, etc.

When I show the car, I place the original sales catalog and other old mags with 64 Galaxie articles in strategic spots to cover the rips.

Corrected a hard starting issue by bumping the timing up. Made a world of difference.

Had to replace the exhaust gaskets. Had a loud tapping sound (I thought it was the exhaust doughnut), and my local Midas shop said it was internal, not exhaust.

Well, after a bit of panic, I decided to pull the exhaust manifolds, and, sure as heck, gaskets were shot.

Bought some super thick gaskets, and all quiet now.

Car runs better now than ever.

Krytin

10-24-2011, 01:34 PM

Great news - thanks for the update!

TFB

10-24-2011, 02:12 PM

Nice 'vert, I have a soft spot for '64 Galaxies, had a fastback that was 289 & three on the tree, I converted to 390 & four speed... Found a low mileage T-boned one at the junk yard and bought every thing under it, from the radiator back to the mufflers(for those that don't know, the mufflers are just in front of the rear bumper on the '60-'64 full size Fords)... It's one of three or four I've owned over the years I can say, I'd like to have that one back...

SamF

10-24-2011, 06:10 PM

Never sell that car!...but if you do call me LOL :D

71cyclone

10-24-2011, 06:19 PM

jerrym3

10-25-2011, 05:44 AM

Take the fuel pump off and use a blocking plate put 1/2 " bolts back on to hold it . Now get a electric fuel pump and spare lines and hook up to engine connect pump to battery and start . [ use an assistant to check for leaks during start up ] .If the knock goes away then U figured it out

The 352/250 hp motor with the knock is gone. In it's place is a rebuilt 390/300 hp.

Before I did the engine swap, I pulled the fuel pump and ran the car for a few seconds on just the gas in the carb.

The knock did not go away.

jerrym3

10-25-2011, 06:05 AM

Thought about dog dish caps, but caved in and went back to full 500XL caps.

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/hubcaps/th_DSCI0021.jpg (http://s1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/hubcaps/?action=view&current=DSCI0021.jpg)

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/hubcaps/th_DSCI0074.jpg (http://s1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/hubcaps/?action=view&current=DSCI0074.jpg)

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/hubcaps/th_DSCI0078.jpg (http://s1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/hubcaps/?action=view&current=DSCI0078.jpg)

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/hubcaps/th_DSCI0070.jpg (http://s1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/jvmarcone/hubcaps/?action=view&current=DSCI0070.jpg)