Plug and Thermo Install

[LVMarauder]

Ok I feel really dumb asking this.... but how do you install spark plugs and the thermostat? :help:

[RF Overlord]

Spark plugs:

Are under the coil covers (on the cam covers)...disconnect the small wire from the side of each coil (there are 4 of them on each side), and pull the coil straight out...use a proper 5/8" spark plug socket, and tape it to an extension for ease of removal. If you're installing the Denso Iridium plugs, DO NOT attempt to gap them, unless you have experience and/or a plug-gapping tool...if you insist on gapping them, set them at .054"...Install the new plugs at 11 ft/lbs...USE A TORQUE WRENCH...over-tightening will strip the threads in the head and then you're SOL...big time...as far as using anti-seize, the general consensus is: DON'T...but if you insist on using it, do so sparingly...a little goes a long way...

Thermostat:

Is in that funny-looking kludge with 3 radiator hoses attached to it, hanging on the drivers side...open it up...remove the old 'stat...install the new one...it's messy, but simple...(BTW, don't lose the O-ring)...remove the 1¼" metal cap plug from the black coolant pipe in front of the intake manifold, and pour in the coolant you hopefully remembered to catch in a clean bucket...install the cap loosely and start the motor...allow to warm up until all the trapped air has vented out...tighten the cap plug and you're done.

[warren]

LV Marauder,
Check out...... http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2579&highlight=Stat

Just clamp off the hoses and you will have
little or no spillage.
Good Luck.

WarrenB.

[Ross]

I have a question about gapping/not gapping Denso plugs. I understand the "fragile" nature of these plugs, and how they can be broken if they are not gapped correctly. But I have also seen posts where people have gotten a set of Denso's and they are all gapped differently from the factory. Aren't we asking for trouble to just put in a new set of plugs, blindly hoping that they are all gapped correctly? Shouldn't we at least CHECK the gap first? If we check the gap, and it is wrong, don't we have to gap it correctly before we put it in? I'm not nearly as smart as most of you about car stuff, but I would never put a plug in my car that I have not personally checked the gap on, and corrected the gap if it's wrong. I've heard a number of people on this board say not to gap Denso's, but I don't trust any factory to put out such a perfect product that I can install it and trust my car to it without at least a check. Just my .02.

[Marauderer]

You are right on the money! It can of course be a general rule that you do not gap densos, but no one out there should take a general rule and follow it blindly without any common sense. You should always check the gap and if any are different, it is an error that you must correct! You just do it carefully and do not pry against the fine tip. If anything, I would test the gap, tap it down if need be very gently and if you go too far, pull it back up with some needle nosed pliers, dull knife blade, or other without getting anywhere the tip or scratching it up.

[martyo]

Originally posted by RF Overlord
that funny-looking kludge

Did someone call my name??? I was previoulsy proclaimed the Kludge Meister!

[Ross]

No, Marty, it's Klutz Meister, not Kludge Meister! Thought I'd beat TAF to that one!:lol:

[TripleTransAm]

I think folks are reading too much into the 'no gap' recommendations. I think it's a good idea to verify the gap and possibly correct it if they're uneven or off (it's VERY easy to knock the ground electrode out of place, a simple tap will do it). But it's not a good idea to change the gap from the manufacturer recommended values or range, at least by too great an amount.

The relationship between the two electrodes is pretty important. Since changing the gap involves tilting the ground electrode forward or backward, this pretty much changes the way the center electrode is shrouded. As you decrease the gap beyond the max specs, the tip of the ground electrode will have moved past the center electrode so much as to completely change the geometry between the two. Same goes for opening up the gap, the tip of the ground electrode will actually uncover the center electrode, same result with bad geometry.

As for the anti-seize... too much will cause you problems in grounding the spark plug properly. The reality is that most of us on here will not have any set of plugs in there long enough to cause problems, but traditionally aluminum heads have a history of not wanting to give up their hold on plugs when they've been in there long enough. I heard the same stories about my all-aluminum LS1 and decided to 'check things out' at around 25000 miles, and a few were kind of rough to remove. A LIGHT application of anti-seize (like, REALLY light) and they were absolutely a piece of cake to remove when I swapped out the original plugs at 40000 miles, last spring.

[studio460]

FYI:

Great posts, guys (I still need to do the stat swap myself). I did my Densos a while back without any problems (although I did have to buy a longer extension--those plug holes are DEEP!). Gaps did seem a bit too wide, but I left them as is. I applied about three thread's worth of anti-seize, a couple threads down from the electrode. I felt like they needed a bit more anti-seize, but after reading Triple-T's post, I guess that was just about right . . .

[RF Overlord]

Ross (and others) are correct that no one should blindly follow a vague or general recommendation without doing some research. In my case, I used the recommendation of Dennis Reinhart, who has probably forgotten more about Ford motors than I will ever know, and the fact that I did CHECK the gaps on 3 or 4 of mine...and found them to all be approx .044 to .046. This led me to another issue, which is that Denso's site calls for a .050 gap for the MM, while Ford calls for .052 to .056...I chose to trust 3 things:

1. Dennis's recommendation...
2. That Denso knows more about Iridium-tipped plugs than anyone else...
3. If the above two reasons are wrong, the gap will widen as the plugs age, and become closer the the "correct" gap...

It's been my experience with Ford motors that if the gap is wrong, one of the first things that suffers is idle quality. My Denso's have been in, right out of the box, for a little over 10,000 miles and my MM idles like silk and suffers from no breakdown under heavy acceleration, so the gaps have to be at least CLOSE to optimum...as TooManyTransAms alluded to, with a centre electrode diameter of only 0.4mm, changing the gap may have a larger effect than with conventional plugs...

[TripleTransAm]

Speaking of optimum gaps... This is what I've heard along the years. Just miscellaneous ramblings...

Modern ignition systems (especially the individual coil-on-plug systems sans plug wires) can fire across a tremendous gaps. My LS1 specifies a 0.060 gap (!) for some reason. Higher compression engines (and turbo'ed / supercharged as well) usually require smaller gaps because of the greater tendency for the spark to get 'blown out' or 'drowned out' (both terms depending on who you talk to).

My LS1 has a compression over 10:1 but I guess the ignition system is comfortable with a 0.060 gap. Nonetheless, I did see a slight improvement in off-idle grunt by regapping the stock plugs to 0.055, and the new NGKs I installed in the spring were at 0.050. I grabbed at least 20% extra fuel efficiency over the 40000 mile originals.

Supposedly the side-effect of tight gapping is hard starting. I'm not entirely sure why, although I suspect it's maybe due to richer mixtures? No issues with hard starting on my LS1, with the 0.050 gap, not that it's THAT small a gap to begin with.

Any corrections to the above? Like I said, it's all miscellaneous info from various sources, I would appreciate any correction if that's the case.

Edit: all this to say that in the coming spring, I'll probably check all plugs and perhaps regap them on the smaller end of the scale, if not a bit beyond, just to experiment.

[Marauderer]

I personally do not use anti sieze on my plugs as I change or remove them too frequently and always let the car cool overnight before messing with them to avoid heat expansion issues and I always, always, use a torque wrench. I have never had a problem in this area and we are talking 20 or so years of working on my own cars (granted it hasn't been 20 years with aluminum heads :)).

As a side note, I have also read from several sources that Ford and Autolite do not recommend it either:


[Tip from Autolite] We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Antiseize compounds are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If antiseize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition. Antiseize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing. However, plug seizure is aggravated further when steel plugs are installed into aluminum cylinder heads for a long period of time. You may want to consider the periodic inspection of the plugs to reduce the likelihood of plug seizure during extended plug service intervals.

And this from a trusted local mechanic and tech moderator on Crownvic.net:


DO NOT, under ANY circumstance use "Anti-Sieze", or ANY lubricant on the spark plug THREADS!!!! PERIOD

If you do:
-You WILL overtorque the plugs
-Anti-Sieze will trap crap, and gall the threads
-The plugs are MUCH more likely to "blow out"

The FACTORY Ford (Motorcraft) PLATINUM plugs have a SS body, they WILL NOT "sieze" to the Al (or Fe) heads, even under extended operation (well past their 100,000 mile design lives). Non-platinum plugs typically have Fe bodies, and they *can* "rust" if left in too long...more than a couple of years. That is why for MOST applications, you are best to use the FACTORY STOCK style plugs.


Overall, it seems to me (and this is simply my opinion) that if you change your plugs often (like the once a year that I do), or even if you take them out once or twice a year to see how they are doing (which by the way is a very good gauge of how your motor is doing and something you should do after a trip to the track or a hard day at the dyno), then there is no need, what-so-ever.

However, if you want to put them in and forget them for 100k, then by all means, go ahead, but use a torque wrench and use absolutely as little as possible.

[sailsmen]

Stainless Steel and Aluminum will corrode. It may not seize but the resulting corrosion can make removal very difficult.

[HookedOnCV]

I don't believe the stainless steel threads will corrode. That's kind of the nature of stainless steel (at least 300 series stainless, 400 series stainless steel contains iron and will corrode - thats what our exhaust systems are made from).

When platinum plugs are shipped in a vehicle from the factory, they do so for longevity (100K tune-ups?). Those plugs have a stainless steel body and regardless of what material the heads are made of (iron or aluminum) the plugs will not corrode inside the heads.

[jgc61sr2002]

Marauderer - Thanks for the info. I was a firm beliver of anti-sieze.:up:

[2003_MM_FYRE49]

Originally posted by HookedOnCV
I don't believe the stainless steel threads will corrode. That's kind of the nature of stainless steel (at least 300 series stainless, 400 series stainless steel contains iron and will corrode - thats what our exhaust systems are made from).

When platinum plugs are shipped in a vehicle from the factory, they do so for longevity (100K tune-ups?). Those plugs have a stainless steel body and regardless of what material the heads are made of (iron or aluminum) the plugs will not corrode inside the heads.

Cool, with that being said maybe someone here on the forum could give me some advice on how to get a spark plug out of my 1996 Explorer with a 5.0 V8. I have one plug that I can't get out. the other seven came out without any problems. The vehicle has 114,000 miles on it. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.

Tim :fire: 49

[GordonB]

2003_MM_FYRE49,
Have you tried the usual stuff, like liquid wrench or WD-40, etc? Be sure to apply to a COOL, NOT HOT engine and let sit overnite. You may need a breaker bar (or an I-Beam Torque wrench -- el cheapo, but about 18" long) or a LOOOng piece of 1" pipe to put over your ratchet handle.
These would be my suggestions.
GordonB

[jgc61sr2002]

Gordon - The pipe you mention always works for me.:D

[GordonB]

2003_MM_FYRE49,
Tim, did you get your plugs out yet? What finally worked for you? Pls remember to put anti-seize on new plug threads before install. Inquiring minds whant to know ...
GordonB.