Bullyrauder's DTR

[musclemerc]

I have some extra time off this week so I was able to get Bullyrauder's beautiful DTR in my garage for some mods. He has been paitently waiting for me to fab up a few parts and I finally got done with them now it's time to turn some wrenches and get them installed. Here's a list of the mods were doing:

Addco F&R soild sway bars
Moog greasable end links
Energy Suspension grafite impregnated bushins
JLT CAI
Proguard
BC4E dead pedal
Musclemerc Upper/Lower CA's
Musclemerc Proguard brackets
Musclemerc rear sway bar bushin mod
Musclemerc bumper sag fix


http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/001.jpg

[musclemerc]

First up was the JLT. The parts were well packed and the DTR paint was flawless. Tucker does an excellent job with his CAI kits. They fit like a glove, & not to mention the cost, these make a great first mod. Here is a pic of the setup the previous owner did and then the JLT. Only thing I add is a thin line of 100% silicone to both the MAF and the MAF adaptor to ensure a good seal, and I make a bracket to keep them from bumping around under the hood.

[ImpalaSlayer]

sweet!



_________

[musclemerc]

I got the front Addco,Moogs, and ES bushins installed today here's some tips on what it takes to get the job done.

Tools:
Long pry bar
hammer
wire pliers
coat hanger
1/2" Breaker bar
15mm deep socket 1/2" drive
18mm deep socket 1/2" drive
3/8" ratchet
14mm socket 3/8" drive
15mm wratchet wrench
18mm wartchet wrench
Ball joint fork *optional*
Marine grease

First remove the brake caliper with the 14mm socket, and tie it to the upper CA with a piece of coat hanger. Then remove the caliper brackets with the 1/2" breaker bar and the 18mm socket. Pull the rotor off and set it aside. Now thats out of the way go ahead and remove the top nut on the end link **if you plan to reuse your end links put a socket on the end of it to hold the nut in place and remove the nut with a 15mm wrench**
(Were going with the Moogs so I'm not trying to save them) You may need to use a fork to hold keep the bolt from spinning. Do the same for the lower nut on the end link. Get under the car and remove the 4 nuts holding the sway bar in place. **Be careful you don't let it hit you in the head**, support the sway bar because it will fall once its unbolted. To install the new stuff just do the same thing in reverse.

Notes: Be sure you use marine grease on the new bushins take your time and pack them **do not put them on dry the first time**. Adjust the sway bar so its centered on the bushins (L&R), Use the flat stock supplied with the swaybar (this is needed clearance for the retainer's) , do not use the washers that come with the ES bushins, they are not needed.

Addco sent these little retainers with this swaybar use them to keep the bar centered do not discard them. turn the groved side in towards the bushin. They are stock on the 04's, I gotta work on getting a set for my MM ASAP.

:burnout:

[babbage]

looking good - wheres the "Musclemerc bumper sag fix"

Want to see what you did...

[MOTOWN]

ive got to get the front, and rear addcos, should be my next purchase, great post!

[justbob]

looks good, but I am impatient and just use a wrench on the end link nut instead of taking off the brakes. :)

[MercNasty]

Looking good, keep the pics coming

[musclemerc]

This one is a no brainer all you will need is a 10mm socket, a razor knife, and a flat screwdriver

Start by first removing the beauty trim behind the hood latch. Take a flat screwdriver and pull it straight out. Pull the entire panel and lift it out from under the door still, then with the 10mm socket remove the nut on the holder for the wire harness (there is only one so dont think you lost one). Pull the entire harness out of the way and make room for the pedal to go in, after you get the 2 holes on the dead pedal lined up and in place on the studs replace the wire harness, then reinstall the nut, next thing is to cut the carpet so it goes back into place **be sure to take your time on this step only cut what's needed**

This is a must have in all panthers. Big shout out to BC4E for comming up with this well made piece. I love mine! :burnout:

[guspech750]

More pics!!! More pics!!!

[MMBLUE]

Looks Great TS. You have the official BC4E Dead petal PICS for install. Ron will LOVE IT. BTW, I'm jealous, can't wait to put the injectors in :)

[frost]

Musclemerc,

Your work and attention to detail is very impressive. Also many thanks for the photos and write-ups.

Regards,

Ed

[musclemerc]

Today I got some work done on Bullyrauder's DTR.

Some of us running the Addco's swaybars went with the ES bushins to avoid the annoying creeking that the Addco bushins are prone to. They bolt right in on the front of the car but only a few of us have put in the extra time and effort to make the ES bushins work on the rear of the car so here is a how to.

If you look at the stock bushin strap you will easily see why the bushin upgrade is avoided (there's only one bolt hole). Remove the strap and throw it in your parts bin. But before you set them aside make some markings where the stock bushin is located ** this is very important if you expect to stay within the factory swaybar specs**, next make sure to use quality hardware I chose stage8's with a coating and 7/16" coarse thread. You will need some flat stock to make a mounting base for the bushin strap, use the strap as a template and drill the bolt holes in the flat stock using both the bushin strap and the markings made earlier to locate the bushin. At this point clean the surface on the axle bracket and weld the flat stock into place **please use a welders blanket to make sure you dont ignite the gas tank** after you get them welded in do a test fit on the bushin and strap, if everything is OK repeat the process on the other side. Now you can pack the bushins with marine grease and install the swaybar. I chose to use the Addco endlinks on the rear swaybar because they have limited movement and will work great as is.
:burnout:

[BLACK SHEEP]

Freaking A+++ thread dude.

I got the sway bars and proguard coming so this thread will help me a great deal.

[MOTOWN]

great post!, i like the way it mounts, looks stronger than the factory set up.

[musclemerc]

I got the CA's installed tonight, the install is pretty straight forward. Jack the car and put jack stands under the frame rails just under the rear doors *at the jack locator*.You will also need the floor jack under the rear diff to help with lining everything up. Take off the old,,,, put on the new. I do them one side at a time starting with the upper CA then to the lower. Here are the install pics

[musclemerc]

Here's my proguard brackets and bumpersag fix. The previous owner had a piece of plumbers strap installed off center which made the bumper sag even worse so I had to make the support bracket longer than normal and put 5 pieces of hardware in it rather the three I normally use.
:burnout:

[boatmangc]

How much for the Proguard brackets MM?

[musclemerc]

I've noticed that 3 of the 4 center caps were loose. This gave me an excuse to breakout the butane kit. I used the hot air attatchment , you gotta remove the SS ring, then heat and slowly bent each tab one at a time.

[babbage]

Here's my proguard brackets and bumpersag fix. The previous owner had a piece of plumbers strap installed off center which made the bumper sag even worse so I had to make the support bracket longer than normal and put 5 pieces of hardware in it rather the three I normally use.
:burnout:



http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23 647&d=1295652556

Looks pretty good, probably could go thicker and longer. You can see where it's still bent a little. I may redo mine with a longer 2 foot "L" shape aluminum brace piece. Warm up the bumper etc. I do like how you have 5 points of contact, I have only three on mine. I shimmed some flat stock on each side under the rear brake lights to raise the bumper ends up some too.

Also i'd shoot that inner bumper with some WD to stop it rusting - I caked on AMSOIL HD metal protect on the inner bumper when I did my proguard + bumper sag fix.

Did you also do the sides like you did yours?

[musclemerc]

Thanks Babb's, yeah I did the side brackets to keep the proguard from flapping. I also made a center brace to keep it in place.

I hate rattles!

BTW I leave a little bend in the center of the bumper, I dont like it completely flat.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23 648&d=1295652858 (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23 648&d=1295652858)

[MMBLUE]

I'm wondering when Bullyrauder's going to chime in with praises to Musclemerc for incredible workmanship. Great job Musclemerc!!!!!

[musclemerc]

He, He.... Give him a break, I just showed him on Saturday how to post. LOL

[rayjay]

Jobs well done sir. Very nice work :beer:

[TAKEDOWN]

Nice work Bro!