View Full Version : Rear brakes.
Rockettman
05-19-2011, 05:59 AM
Ok so last night I go to turn-off my parking brake, and as so many times before, the pedal pops up, but the brakes don't disengage.
Usually if I give it some gas, you hear a sort of "pop/squeel" from the brakes, and there good.
So I tried this.
Drove very slowly (no gas pedal), while applying the parking brake (release level held up of course), and from the back I hear "sreaming" and "grinding" until I release my foot from the pedal.
THIS DOES NOT HAPPEN DURING NORMAL BRAKING AND DRIVING.
This led me to think that maybe the rear calipers are not siezed; but just not working for normal braking.
I'm going to replace the pads and rotors because of this find; so I can clean the calipers with a wire brush and everything.
Where are the best places to lubricate the pads and sliders so everything is working well (maybe I don't have to change everything; just clean it all up)?
fastblackmerc
05-19-2011, 06:33 AM
Ok so last night I go to turn-off my parking brake, and as so many times before, the pedal pops up, but the brakes don't disengage.
Usually if I give it some gas, you hear a sort of "pop/squeel" from the brakes, and there good.
So I tried this.
Drove very slowly (no gas pedal), while applying the parking brake (release level held up of course), and from the back I hear "sreaming" and "grinding" until I release my foot from the pedal.
THIS DOES NOT HAPPEN DURING NORMAL BRAKING AND DRIVING.
This led me to think that maybe the rear calipers are not siezed; but just not working for normal braking.
I'm going to replace the pads and rotors because of this find; so I can clean the calipers with a wire brush and everything.
Where are the best places to lubricate the pads and sliders so everything is working well (maybe I don't have to change everything; just clean it all up)?
When you take apart the the rear brakes, you'll see where you need to lubricate.
LeoVampire
05-19-2011, 11:22 AM
Just because the e-brake pedal came back up it doesn't mean the cables released the actual rear drum emergency brakes.
Get under the car and grab the cables and make sure they are releasing. If not there is a rubber plug in the backing plates you can take out and use a brake spoon or a screwdriver and back off on the adjuster to free them up.
Look @ the picture in this post to see what I am talking about for the adjuster.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1044557&postcount=3
Krytin
05-19-2011, 11:46 AM
[QUOTE=Rockettman;1047051]THIS DOES NOT HAPPEN DURING NORMAL BRAKING AND DRIVING.
This led me to think that maybe the rear calipers are not siezed; but just not working for normal braking.
?/QUOTE]
Calipers are not the parking brake - hub of rotor is mini drum brake!
Rockettman
05-20-2011, 04:11 AM
Well holy crap!! I had no idea the car had both drum & disc! (This will save me a couple of bucks this weekend).
That would explain these two different issues then.
Now, ask...
1. How the heck are you supposed to get to the springs and pins and stuff in the "traditional drun" area, if the axel-end (w/ the lugs), is in the way?
2. Based on my problem with the e-brake; what part of the "drum" area, should I lubricate to make it work smoothly?
I will mention "LeoVampire", that I can get it to release (after the pedal pops back up), by moving the car in reverse a foot or two, then you can hear the shoes clunk or snap, and its fine. (Until I use the e-brake again).
fastblackmerc
05-20-2011, 06:18 AM
Well holy crap!! I had no idea the car had both drum & disc! (This will save me a couple of bucks this weekend).
That would explain these two different issues then.
Now, ask...
1. How the heck are you supposed to get to the springs and pins and stuff in the "traditional drun" area, if the axel-end (w/ the lugs), is in the way?
2. Based on my problem with the e-brake; what part of the "drum" area, should I lubricate to make it work smoothly?
I will mention "LeoVampire", that I can get it to release (after the pedal pops back up), by moving the car in reverse a foot or two, then you can hear the shoes clunk or snap, and its fine. (Until I use the e-brake again).
DO NOT lube anything in the drum area. Grease / lube and brakes DO NOT mix well.
DO lube the wear points that the parking brake shoes contact.
DO lube the parking brake adjuster.
"by moving the car in reverse a foot or two, then you can hear the shoes clunk or snap, and its fine. (Until I use the e-brake again)."
Sounds like the parking brake cable(s) maybe sticking. Spray WD-40 on the cable(s)
Krytin
05-20-2011, 07:00 AM
Sounds like the lining may have fallen off one or more shoes - it happened to me on my '03 Marauder and my '04 CV LX Sport.
Rockettman
05-20-2011, 07:21 AM
I guess it will all come to light, when I get the drum off to clean and grease/WD40 stuff. (If I figure out how to get the drum off with the axle-hub there!).
When I called yesterday to order the disc and pads (which I don't need now), no-one including Ford even asked if I needed pads or shoes! Only the pads are available. If I needed shoes or anything, what is specified while ordering, so the person doesn't look at me like I'm from another planet?
I think Jim (Fastblack) is on the right track. It may be sticking just due to lack of use. When I do apply it (for testing purpose, there is tons of rust sounds). I have no idea how much it was used by the guy who had it before me. Let's face it, most people never use an e-brake for the life of their car.
fastblackmerc
05-20-2011, 07:27 AM
I guess it will all come to light, when I get the drum off to clean and grease/WD40 stuff. (If I figure out how to get the drum off with the axle-hub there!).
When I called yesterday to order the disc and pads (which I don't need now), no-one including Ford even asked if I needed pads or shoes! Only the pads are available. If I needed shoes or anything, what is specified while ordering, so the person doesn't look at me like I'm from another planet?
I think Jim (Fastblack) is on the right track. It may be sticking just due to lack of use. When I do apply it (for testing purpose, there is tons of rust sounds). I have no idea how much it was used by the guy who had it before me. Let's face it, most people never use an e-brake for the life of their car.
I use the parking brake in all my vehicles. If you don't use it it will rust, then bind up when you try to use it.
LeoVampire
05-20-2011, 11:10 AM
Well holy crap!! I had no idea the car had both drum & disc! (This will save me a couple of bucks this weekend).
That would explain these two different issues then.
Now, ask...
1. How the heck are you supposed to get to the springs and pins and stuff in the "traditional drun" area, if the axel-end (w/ the lugs), is in the way?
2. Based on my problem with the e-brake; what part of the "drum" area, should I lubricate to make it work smoothly?
I will mention "LeoVampire", that I can get it to release (after the pedal pops back up), by moving the car in reverse a foot or two, then you can hear the shoes clunk or snap, and its fine. (Until I use the e-brake again).
Yep it sounds like the cables are sticking on you from what you said on here. And you can see in the pics I gave you a link to it is easy to get the shoes on and off with simple tools.
The problem is the rust ridge build up on the inside of the drums that make getting the rotor off a pita if you do not back off the adjuster on the shoes.
Krytin
05-20-2011, 02:15 PM
I guess it will all come to light, when I get the drum off to clean and grease/WD40 stuff. (If I figure out how to get the drum off with the axle-hub there!).
When I called yesterday to order the disc and pads (which I don't need now), no-one including Ford even asked if I needed pads or shoes! Only the pads are available. If I needed shoes or anything, what is specified while ordering, so the person doesn't look at me like I'm from another planet?
I think Jim (Fastblack) is on the right track. It may be sticking just due to lack of use. When I do apply it (for testing purpose, there is tons of rust sounds). I have no idea how much it was used by the guy who had it before me. Let's face it, most people never use an e-brake for the life of their car.
Just ask for the rear parking brake shoes, if you really need them.
Getting the rear rotor off of the hub will be "fun"!
Look for a product called "PB Blaster" rust penetrating oil. spray around center hub and stud holes. Wire brush the crud off the center hub where it goes through the rotor. A little 'tapping" with a BFH will also help!
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