View Full Version : Oil pan
Black Dynamite
05-19-2011, 11:01 AM
I have a couple of quick questions about our engine oil pans.
1) What are they made of?
2) Is replacing one a mountain of work or is it fairly easy?
I ask this because the threads on my oil pan drain are just about shot. Got a new plug to find purchase and sit tight, but I'm afraid that may be the last hurrah.
Thanks ladies and germs!
I have a couple of quick questions about our engine oil pans.
1) What are they made of?
2) Is replacing one a mountain of work or is it fairly easy?
I ask this because the threads on my oil pan drain are just about shot. Got a new plug to find purchase and sit tight, but I'm afraid that may be the last hurrah.
Thanks ladies and germs!
Carbon steel.
LeoVampire
05-19-2011, 11:32 AM
I have a couple of quick questions about our engine oil pans.
1) What are they made of?
2) Is replacing one a mountain of work or is it fairly easy?
I ask this because the threads on my oil pan drain are just about shot. Got a new plug to find purchase and sit tight, but I'm afraid that may be the last hurrah.
Thanks ladies and germs!
You can weld a new drain bung to the pan or a heili-coil kit to repair the threads or get a rubber self seal drain plug.
Another words easier ways to deal with the issue than pulling and replacing the pan.
fastblackmerc
05-19-2011, 11:35 AM
I've had loose oil pan drain plugs in the past so all my cars now have this installed:
http://www.fumotousa.com/
No more hot oil running down your arm
No more dropping the drain plug in the drain pan
No more drips after tightening the drain plug
No more stripped oil pan threads
No more frozen oil pan drain plugs
musclemerc
05-19-2011, 11:39 AM
1) Stay away from the Quick Lube places.
2) You will have to jack the motor to swap oil pans.
Got anything else that needs repairing while the engine is jacked? Rear main seals, oil filter adapter housing,Torque Convertor, or maybe headers? Its better to do it while you already there.
Krytin
05-19-2011, 11:42 AM
You have to pull the motor to change the pan.
That said, Ford has always made the plugs a little softer than the threads in the pan (or the pan threads a little harder than the plugs). I've had the same experience w/aftermarket replacement plugs as well.
I have always found that even though the plug got stripped (over tightening the plug will do it every time!), the pan threads would take a new plug no problem!
I even had to do it on my MM after I let the local garage do an oil change w/inspection last year.
I would be surprised if your pan threads were actually damaged.
RacerX
05-19-2011, 11:49 AM
You can weld a new drain bung to the pan.
Errrrrrr... Have a fire extinguisher on standby and don't melt your oilpan gasket... ;)
sailsmen
05-19-2011, 11:50 AM
It is easier to drop the sub frame then pull the engine. It is double walled in some places. Welding it is not easy.
If you replace the pan order a new gasket.
LeoVampire
05-19-2011, 11:53 AM
Errrrrrr... Have a fire extinguisher on standby and don't melt your oilpan gasket... ;)
I have done it before without problems in the past on a customers car in the shop.
Just have to know what your doing and take your time.
cougar9150
05-19-2011, 12:27 PM
It is easier to drop the sub frame then pull the engine. It is double walled in some places. Welding it is not easy.
If you replace the pan order a new gasket.
Not sure about this as to drop the subframe you need to remove the entire front suspension and you still need to be able to support the motor using either a cherry picker or the uber expensive stand from Ford.
IMO this is way more work than just yanking or lifting the motor and will then require you to go get an alignment.
I can have a motor pulled in an afternoon including removal my Kooks before yanking it.
Personally I would go and get a new Plug and call it a day. I had the same issue and when I installed a new plug it when in w/no problems and hasn't given me any issues since because I always torque it to spec. Torque specifications are your friend.
musclemerc
05-19-2011, 12:54 PM
It is easier to drop the sub frame then pull the engine. It is double walled in some places. Welding it is not easy.
If you replace the pan order a new gasket.
If you drop the sub frame first you wont need to pull the engine.
It will already be on the garage floor. Hopefully he wont be under it.
MOTOWN
05-19-2011, 12:57 PM
I've had loose oil pan drain plugs in the past so all my cars now have this installed:
http://www.fumotousa.com/
No more hot oil running down your arm
No more dropping the drain plug in the drain pan
No more drips after tightening the drain plug
No more stripped oil pan threads
No more frozen oil pan drain plugs
nice idea! ive thought about trying one of these
RacerX
05-19-2011, 01:01 PM
I have done it before without problems in the past on a customers car in the shop.
Just have to know what your doing and take your time.
My bad! I was thinking Oxy-Acet! Mig or Tig? Got to get me one.
LeoVampire
05-19-2011, 01:06 PM
My bad! I was thinking Oxy-Acet! Mig or Tig? Got to get me one.
I used a mig welder when I did it on lower heat settings and just took my time with it and used compressed air and wet rags to keep the temp down.
Ya it is easier to have it off and clean but older retired customers did not have money for expensive work so I figured out ways to save them some cash when I could.
stryker
05-20-2011, 10:50 PM
nice idea! ive thought about trying one of these :agree: with MOTOWNMARAUDER, looks very interesting. :cool:
sailsmen
05-21-2011, 05:37 AM
We dropped the sub frame to swap out the oil pan in a garage with out a lift or any special equipment, it was quicker and easier than pulling the engine. We marked everything and since I have free alignment service I had it checked and it was dead on.
Do what ever you are comfortable with.
LeoVampire
05-21-2011, 09:44 AM
Get one of these 3 point engine support tool and then you can drop the cross member and not worry about the engine.
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&q=tools+engine+support&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=3824912699185259717&sa=X&ei=m-vXTancI4TogQeap9BX&ved=0CF8Q8wIwBQ&biw=1680&bih=830#
I have used these things in shops for a long time and they can easily hold up and engine and tranny when you set them up properly and nothing to worry about.
Some cars you just have to drop the cross member to do some work and change out parts and taking an engine out that is not being rebuilt is not worth it too many things can happen from body damage to busted parts.
Da Dark Jedi
05-29-2011, 05:33 AM
So is : F-101 or F-106 for our model? Who has the better price for these?
whd507
05-29-2011, 11:10 AM
I know a lot of guys over at thedieselstop.com have used these valves for years with no ill effects. its on my list along with the possibility of a remote filter setup.
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