MM/SC Oil Recomendation

[widowmaker]

I just recently installed a Trilogy S/C kit on my MM,and am completely satisfied!!;) During the installation process we used a hand held temp.sensor to see what the engine component temps were running.I was suprised to see the valve cover temps @ more than 180 degrees.Thats HOT!!! Ford recomends the use of 5w20 Motorcraft oil,which is a synthetic blend.I am going to change my oil to a full synthetic because it will not break down under extreme temps.Although that may not be an issue @ this time of year,I feel the extra protection will be needed when our temps rise in the spring and summer.In my search for the full synthetic oil in the recommended weight,I discovered that it was not readily available.I searched further,and found that Motorcraft does offer this oil.The P/N is XO5W20QFS.
Just FYI,
Widowmaker

[Amsoil_Dealer]

Widowmaker,

Amsoil and I believe Royal Purple make 5W20 synthetic oils.
To be honest though Amsoil's product is a group III base which is not as good as a full group IV base.

Secondly, I am not fond of 5W20 oils for superchargred cars. These oils were designed for fuel mileage, not the heavy loads that superchargers put on the engine. I'd recommend stepping up to a full group IV based 5W30. Amsoil, Royal Purple and Mobil-1 all make fine examples.

Thirdly, I highly recommend that you monitor every oil change with used oil analysis (www.oaitesting.com). This costs about $20 per oil change. I know this is not cheap but with a SC you are putting stresses on your engine and your oil that neither were designed for and let's face it if your willing to spend $4000 for an SC, what is anothet $20. to find out how well everything is holding up.

Don
www.lubedealer.com/dstevens

[RF Overlord]

^^^what Amsoil Dealer said^^^

Exactly.

[TAF]

Originally posted by RF Overlord
^^^what Amsoil Dealer said^^^

Exactly.

RF...never met an oil thread...he didn't like.:lol:

[Bigdogjim]

Wise words indeed.

S/C's put a whole another load on a motor:)

[Marauderer]

I've never used their products, but I was reading on the Kenne Bell site that they really recommend Redline products. Has anyone here ever had any experience with them?

[SergntMac]

Originally posted by Amsoil_Dealer
[B]I am not fond of 5W20 oils for superchargred cars. These oils were designed for fuel mileage, not the heavy loads that superchargers put on the engine. I'd recommend stepping up to a full group IV based 5W30. Amsoil, Royal Purple and Mobil-1 all make fine examples.

No disagreement with your opinion, A_D, but you tease my curiosoty about cooling properties. Another benefit of 5W20 is it's ability to absorb heat and carry that away quicker than a heavier weight oil. Considering that our Intech 4V already has a cooling problem with incomplete water jackets at the 7-8 cylinders, how do you feel about the cooling effectiveness of 5W30 weight full synethic oils?

BTW, thanks for the advice on screening oil samples, this is surely worth the money. As I have recommended before, start your screning program with a test of clean fresh oil that you will use on a regular basis. This will help you better understand what is in the oil, and what's coming from wear and tear.

[widowmaker]

In my experience,the heavier the oil the lower the heat disapation.Also,the heavier oil may not flow as well in these close tolerance engines.
Thanks for your response,
Widowmaker:)

[Amsoil_Dealer]

Originally posted by SergntMac
No disagreement with your opinion, A_D, but you tease my curiosoty about cooling properties. Another benefit of 5W20 is it's ability to absorb heat and carry that away quicker than a heavier weight oil. Considering that our Intech 4V already has a cooling problem with incomplete water jackets at the 7-8 cylinders, how do you feel about the cooling effectiveness of 5W30 weight full synethic oils?

BTW, thanks for the advice on screening oil samples, this is surely worth the money. As I have recommended before, start your screning program with a test of clean fresh oil that you will use on a regular basis. This will help you better understand what is in the oil, and what's coming from wear and tear.

Let me work form the bottom up on this one....

I agree with your comments about testing a new sample of an oil as a base line. This way you can monitor wear, silicon (dirt) ingestion, additive depletion, and TBN depletion.

Cooling properties - Synthetic oils can provide better heat disipation but I am not so sure it makes much difference in "non contact" areas like around water jackets or in a water/oil cooler like in a CVPI. It could be argued that a dino oil of the same viscosity transfers normal heat (like less than 300F) just as well as synthetic. Where synthetics come into play for better heat dissipation are at much higher temperatures and in "contact areas" like piston crowns, piston rings, valve guides where temperatures are regularly over 450F. In these areas synthetics are much more stable and thus carry heat away more efficiently.
Finally, overall heat disipation is a function of the entire cooling system (both water and oil). I was unaware that the Marauder engine had marginal cooling capability. Usually, such issues are addressed through auxiliary oil coolers and larger capacity sumps. Does the Marauder have either?


Per Widowmakers comment that heavier oil carry less heat away. There is some logic to that but in my opinion the differences between a 5W20 vs a 5W30 are insignificant. Note this is my opinion based on personal experience...I have not studied this scientifically.

Don

[SergntMac]

Thanks, Don, I appreciate your thoughts. I wasn't asking about dino vs. synthetic, but more about heat absorbtion and weights.

I agree that the absorbtion rate between 5W20 and 5W30 is probably even-steven. But, there is a significant difference in the ability to carry heat away once it's absorbed by the oil. In the smaller crevices, the thicker oil may linger too long, which defeats it's cooling effect.

Belief that the lighter, thinner 5W20 LM "recommended" oil we use is insufficient for proper lubrication is high here, and I have no desire to open that argument again. However, 5W20 excels over 5W30 in its cooling, which is part of it's job too.

I agree that the 5W20 oil has it's EPA benefits, but I suspect much more is involved in the "recommendation" than MPG. The EPA monitors pollution too, and a clean burn is also an ideal to achieve. When I remember why Dennis suggests we install cooler plugs and stat, his goal is to refine the combustion process to an ideal temp. Maybe that ideal temp is another reason we are supposed to use the 5W20? Otherwise, why would the aftermarket develop synthetics in that weight?

[woaface]

Ok...what exactly are the numbers on the oil bottles? I've gotten tires down at least!

[Amsoil_Dealer]

Originally posted by SergntMac


I agree that the 5W20 oil has it's EPA benefits, but I suspect much more is involved in the "recommendation" than MPG. The EPA monitors pollution too, and a clean burn is also an ideal to achieve. When I remember why Dennis suggests we install cooler plugs and stat, his goal is to refine the combustion process to an ideal temp. Maybe that ideal temp is another reason we are supposed to use the 5W20? Otherwise, why would the aftermarket develop synthetics in that weight?


Perhaps you are right but I am of the conviction that is all for fuel mileage.

Why would the aftermarket develop synthetics in that weight? Because the owners manual suggest that we use that weight. 90% of the owners would never think to second guess that recommendation. There are those of us (another point on which you and I agree) who question the wear prevention properties of the Mtrcrft 5W20 so we look for a full synthetic.

Honda is also on the 5W20 bandwagon also. Ironically form my research on used oil analysis our Ford V8s and all Honda engines are particularly hard on oil as compared to other manufacturers.

Don