N/A MM bolt on owners

[mgmsleeper]

Few weeks ago i had my mind set on the Eaton Swap ...BUT I've change dmy mind ----FOR NOW. I may sell my Camaro and FULLY build my MM off of that money. I know me and I'll want more after the swap. so for now i'll settle for new stall and 4.10s.

MY QUESTION IS HOW MUCH OF A DIFFERENCE HAVE YOU FELT DOING A FEW BOLT ONS GETTING THE CAR TO 290+RWHP I KNOW IT WONT BE A HUGE DIFFERENCE BUT DOES IT MAKE FOR A QUICKER, EASIER TO GET MOVING, BETTER PERFORMING DAILY STREET CAR?

TO THOSE WHO ARE N/A WITH BOLT ONS WHAT ARE YOUR MODS AND RWHP NUMBERS? and how is it

[dohc324ci]

NA cost more and produce less. Go eaton. Your not going to get to 290rwhp for 3k NA.

[RacerX]

288rwhp. Love it. Will have more soon...

Mods in sig.


NA cost more and produce less. Go eaton.
Amen to that brotha! If I'd only listened to everyone when I first started... I'd have been sc'd a long time ago and had a lot more $$$ in my pocket!

[mgmsleeper]

NA cost more and produce less. Go eaton. Your not going to get to 290rwhp for 3k NA.

i MIGHT still go eaton i know i'll want more then im stuck with a eaton swap. even tho i can re-sell the stuff. so im weighing my options now. i jsut know im past tired of the stock performance. i just see some sigs here of MMs with 290+ and just thought i'd ask questions

[mgmsleeper]

288rwhp. Love it. Will have more soon...

Mods in sig.


Amen to that brotha! If I'd only listened to everyone when I first started... I'd have been sc'd a long time ago and had a lot more $$$ in my pocket!

all of that in your SIG and you only have 288rwhp?

[RacerX]

all of that in your SIG and you only have 288rwhp?
Yup! ;) Probably squeeze more out if I'd put the adjustable cam gears in and had it degreed.

[RoyLPita]

I have u/d pulleys, K&N filtercharger, "Z" tune, and a TransGo Level 1 shift kit. I do not know what all this will give me, but it is better than stock.

I also have a 4.10 rear end to install in time.

[2,4shofast]

It is a very big difference and you wont go thru the tires nearly as fast N/A...

[SC Cheesehead]

03mmmonroe is slightly over 300 rwhp NA, but he's got a full exhaust (long tube headers, high flow cats, mid-pipe, 2 1/2" pipes all the way back), CAI, a dyno tune, plus some other stuff.

As noted by others, diminishing returns for the money you'll need to invest to get bigger HP.

Eaton swap: go from around 260 rwhp to 425 rwhp, just like that! :burn:

[Blackened300a]

My list of mods are in the garage link in my sig. I made 296RWHP before the headers, so I have to be over 300RWHP now.

A good dyno tune will turn your stock 245RWHP into 265 RWHP, then add the basic bolt-ons and a good tune, you can pull over 280 RWHP. . These cars are very de-tuned from the factory, just the tune makes a world of difference. The short runner intake added a little peak but nothing to brag about, the stock intake is working just fine lately.
Adding 4.10s with a convertor will make it seem like a completely different car without adding any bolt-ons to the engine.

[kmastl]

I am just over 300 wrhp... save your self the time/hassle and just do an eaton swap these cars need all the torque they can get. NA 3k $ = 300hp eaton 3k = over 400

[loud2004marquis]

Once you install the 4:10's, you'll smile for a while...That's what I did, but now I'm getting ready for some boost!

Still re-searching and saving...

One benefit of an Eaton swap that's been mentioned is that you can upgrade to a different blower pretty easily...

So if you want more after an eaton swap, there's one way to upgrade!

[guspech750]

Before my Eaton.
I had a JLT intake, Steeda underdrive pulleys, Zack tune and 4.10's. It dynoed at 291hp and I forgot the torque.

I loved it. Lots of smiles per miles. But I wanted more!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I wanted the Wreeeeeeeeeeeeee from the Eaton.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[LANDY]

Buy the parts and let's install the eaton boy.

[ctrlraven]

I've enjoyed being NA. It's also fun adding a new mod and then seeing the difference at the track. Yeah sure you can go with the Eaton swap and then you'll get use to it and want more. I know a few trilogy people who are 460-500rwhp and said they were good with that... now they say "maybe 600 will be my new ceiling". lol

[SC Cheesehead]

I've enjoyed being NA. It's also fun adding a new mod and then seeing the difference at the track. Yeah sure you can go with the Eaton swap and then you'll get use to it and want more. I know a few trilogy people who are 460-500rwhp and said they were good with that... now they say "maybe 600 will be my new ceiling". lol


Once the mod bug bites, you're addicted for life...;)

[BODYMAN]

Do the Eaton swap and enjoy it until it's time for a new motor, Then put a stroker in there with a TS. Just my .2 cents

[guspech750]

Do the Eaton swap and enjoy it until it's time for a new motor, Then put a stroker in there with a TS. Just my .2 cents
Or a 2011 ZR-1 Corvette motor!!:D:lol:

[na svt]

For less than 3k you can get 300rwhp with the follwing
-96-98 cobra intake cams, installed at 106/110
-ported intake
-intake spacer
-Long tube headers
-JLT inlet
-Tune

[MOTOWN]

HP and speed are very addictive! as long as they make it, we will buy it!

[ctrlraven]

I think as far as NA bolt ons I have left is Stewart WP, Long Tube headers, maybe do some intake manifold work and more tuning. I would do the Cobra cams but I told myself I wouldn't open the motor cause I want to take a stock long block as far as it can go being NA.

[MMBLUE]

For less than 3k you can get 300rwhp with the follwing
-96-98 cobra intake cams, installed at 106/110
-ported intake
-intake spacer
-Long tube headers
-JLT inlet
-Tune

Great point. I'm almost there. It wouldn't hurt to throw in U/D pullies.

[Blackened300a]

For less than 3k you can get 300rwhp with the follwing
-96-98 cobra intake cams, installed at 106/110
-ported intake
-intake spacer
-Long tube headers
-JLT inlet
-Tune

The cams and the headers will break the $3k budget after installation and tuning.

[RacerX]

I guess if we can put dyno numbers in from STD, mine are actually 296rwhp:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/579/STD_0_Smooth.jpg

[Blackened300a]

Here's my chart, back to back runs.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d12/blackened300a/c00d707f.jpg

[blazen71]

Just an FYI, it's never enough:burnout:. I say go forced induction. You won't need any other mods, for a while:D.

[SC Cheesehead]

Just an FYI, it's never enough:burnout:. I say go forced induction. You won't need any other mods, for a while:D.

True, that...:D

[FordNut]

If you want to hear from somebody who has tried just about every combination...

You'll spend way more money and still not be satisfied if you stay N/A. Been there, done that...

Do this:
Skip the 4.10's.
Do the Eaton Swap.
Tune it for 400 or so.
Have fun for awhile doing burnouts and stuff.
Widen the rear rims and put on wider tires to get some traction.
Have fun being able to somewhat hook on launches for awhile.
Need more, add headers.
Tune it for 450 or so.
Still need more, change pulleys.
Tune it for 500 or so.
Have fun 'til she blows.
Need more, do a rebuild on a stock aluminum block with a stroker crank, forged pistons @9.5-10.0:1 CR, and good forged or billet rods.
Tune it for 525 or so.
Have fun with the stroker and previous setup.
Need more, upgrade to a twin screw.
Tune it for 600 or so.
That's more than enough for the street.

[justbob]

.......................

[na svt]

The cams and the headers will break the $3k budget after installation and tuning.
Cams and headers can be done in the garage along with the rest of the mods.

$300-96-98 cobra intake cams, cam gears, installed at 106/110
$500-ported intake
$99-intake spacer
$600-Long tube headers/off road pipe (not Kooks/Stainless Works)
$150-JLT inlet
$400-Tune

$2050 Total

Add a March 1158 fluid damper, water pump pulley and a 4" cobra R alt pulley for another $225 and the total is still way less than $3k.

Paying $400-$500 for a tune is ridiculous, my local tuner is $125 an hour and is very good.

An intake cam installation on a Marauder is a 5-6 hour job and I've walked many people through it, even those with little experience.

[dohc324ci]

If you want to hear from somebody who has tried just about every combination...

You'll spend way more money and still not be satisfied if you stay N/A. Been there, done that...

Do this:
Skip the 4.10's.
Do the Eaton Swap.
Tune it for 400 or so.
Have fun for awhile doing burnouts and stuff.
Widen the rear rims and put on wider tires to get some traction.
Have fun being able to somewhat hook on launches for awhile.
Need more, add headers.
Tune it for 450 or so.
Still need more, change pulleys.
Tune it for 500 or so.
Have fun 'til she blows.
Need more, do a rebuild on a stock aluminum block with a stroker crank, forged pistons @9.5-10.0:1 CR, and good forged or billet rods.
Tune it for 525 or so.
Have fun with the stroker and previous setup.
Need more, upgrade to a twin screw.
Tune it for 600 or so.
That's more than enough for the street.

Yup...my NA bbs is fun for a bit but I now need 600rwhp...lol driving by a gt500 the other day...damn I hate this hobby. Found a local guy selling a boss big bore block hmmm wife's mustang would be a good candidate.

[FordNut]

Cams and headers can be done in the garage along with the rest of the mods.

$300-96-98 cobra intake cams, cam gears, installed at 106/110
$500-ported intake
$99-intake spacer
$600-Long tube headers/off road pipe (not Kooks/Stainless Works)
$150-JLT inlet
$400-Tune

$2050 Total

Add a March 1158 fluid damper, water pump pulley and a 4" cobra R alt pulley for another $225 and the total is still way less than $3k.

Paying $400-$500 for a tune is ridiculous, my local tuner is $125 an hour and is very good.

An intake cam installation on a Marauder is a 5-6 hour job and I've walked many people through it, even those with little experience.

What is the RWHP on a Marauder with these mods? Still nowhere near 400.

And you left out the required 4.10 gears if you want any SOTP performance on a N/A Marauder. Add in the labor for all or some of the listed mods and you're way over $3k. And still get stomped by a stock engine, stock exhaust, stock gear, Eaton conversion.

[na svt]

What is the RWHP on a Marauder with these mods? Still nowhere near 400.

And you left out the required 4.10 gears if you want any SOTP performance on a N/A Marauder. Add in the labor for all or some of the listed mods and you're way over $3k. And still get stomped by a stock engine, stock exhaust, stock gear, Eaton conversion.
310rwhp and I didn't mention the 4.10s because the OP did in his 1st post.

I didn't say these mods would result in enough power to beat up on an FI combo. What I did was provid some bolt-on mod options pre the OP's request. Unlike others, my first mod suggestion isn't add FI.

Some people want to stay n/a and we should respect that.

Regarding labor, everyone of those mods can be done in a home garage.

[Blackened300a]

Kinda annoying, the OP asked how to get more power out of a NA combo and its "put a eaton on". Not the answer they are looking for and not everyone has $4K-$5K to throw around.

[mgmsleeper]

If you want to hear from somebody who has tried just about every combination...

You'll spend way more money and still not be satisfied if you stay N/A. Been there, done that...

Do this:
Skip the 4.10's.
Do the Eaton Swap.
Tune it for 400 or so.
Have fun for awhile doing burnouts and stuff.
Widen the rear rims and put on wider tires to get some traction.
Have fun being able to somewhat hook on launches for awhile.
Need more, add headers.
Tune it for 450 or so.
Still need more, change pulleys.
Tune it for 500 or so.
Have fun 'til she blows.
Need more, do a rebuild on a stock aluminum block with a stroker crank, forged pistons @9.5-10.0:1 CR, and good forged or billet rods.
Tune it for 525 or so.
Have fun with the stroker and previous setup.
Need more, upgrade to a twin screw.
Tune it for 600 or so.
That's more than enough for the street.

nice advice ... thanks :beer:

[massacre]

IDK about 4:10s.
From my experience, FI cars don't like the 4:10s as much, unless you run a really big(circumference) tire.

[mgmsleeper]

no need to :flamer: each other. its just a simple question. all opinions are respected as given. i know eaton is the bug to bite i haven't turned away from it at all but not all may have that money (not saying i don't) but this post can help or inform someone else who wants more power but can't spend 3k. as far as my mods i can handle installation for most of them on my own. I've built cars before, labor isn't my issue. i just thought of possibly staying N/A and pulling out all the power i can before boosting so i can have more money saved encase she goes POOF.

500rwhp on a built motor sounds better then 440+ on a ticking time bomb(stock motor) to me any day.

:beer:

[na svt]

I've built cars before, labor isn't my issue. i just thought of possibly staying N/A and pulling out all the power i can before boosting so i can have more money saved encase she goes POOF.

500rwhp on a built motor sounds better then 440+ on a ticking time bomb(stock motor) to me any day.
The cobra cams and headers will increase power on FI combos also. The cams, when installed at the correct LCs raise the dynamic CR which helps a lot with preboost power on FI combos.

[justbob]

Kinda annoying, the OP asked how to get more power out of a NA combo and its "put a eaton on". Not the answer they are looking for and not everyone has $4K-$5K to throw around.

I recanted to not annoy you or the OP.



Sent from my Ally using Tapatalk

[sailsmen]

My S/ C is bolted on. Are you guys gluing your on?

[LANDY]

Kinda annoying, the OP asked how to get more power out of a NA combo and its "put a eaton on". Not the answer they are looking for and not everyone has $4K-$5K to throw around. not trying to annoy you and I know I'm not annoying the op. I did the n/a full bolt on on my first mm and after spending lots of money and doing all the work my self all I got was 13.6 at 101mph. I should of saved the money a little longer and installed a blower.

[dohc324ci]

If your long term goal is to eventually go FI then IMO save for it. If you want to stay NA then by all means go for it. I done just about all you can do staying NA in Cali still not enough for me;) do what your pocketbook allows and enjoy! If I had to do over it would be an alluminator 10:1cr + DR Vortech running 10-12lbs of boost. Having said that what I have on the roadmap is a DR V3 S-trim shooting for 550-600rwhp...after paint and suspension mods.

[SC Cheesehead]

no need to :flamer: each other. its just a simple question. all opinions are respected as given. i know eaton is the bug to bite i haven't turned away from it at all but not all may have that money (not saying i don't) but this post can help or inform someone else who wants more power but can't spend 3k. as far as my mods i can handle installation for most of them on my own. I've built cars before, labor isn't my issue. i just thought of possibly staying N/A and pulling out all the power i can before boosting so i can have more money saved encase she goes POOF.

500rwhp on a built motor sounds better then 440+ on a ticking time bomb(stock motor) to me any day.

:beer:

440 on a stock motor isn't a ticking time bomb unless you plan on running crappy gas.

As to the suggestion for "put an Eaton on it," I think what's being said with that is if you have a $3K mod budget for NA, for $500 to $1,000 more you can get some significant power improvements by going the Eaton swap route.

NA's great if that's all you ever want, but it needs to be understood that throwing $3K at a NA motor's gonna net you about 300 rwhp and minimal improvements in rwtq; beyond that, big bucks for diminishing returns.

[sailsmen]

440 on a stock motor isn't a ticking time bomb unless you plan on running crappy gas.

As to the suggestion for "put an Eaton on it," I think what's being said with that is if you have a $3K mod budget for NA, for $500 to $1,000 more you can get some significant power improvements by going the Eaton swap route.

NA's great if that's all you ever want, but it needs to be understood that throwing $3K at a NA motor's gonna net you about 300 rwhp and minimal improvements in rwtq; beyond that, big bucks for diminishing returns.

I don't buy the crappy gas excuse. I think that is an easy out for something else that went wrong.

I drive 20K per year and the only time I have experienced it in my 37 years of driving was in the 3 months post Katrina. Guess what although the gas was crappy my engine did not get damaged.

[SC Cheesehead]

I don't buy the crappy gas excuse. I think that is an easy out for something else that went wrong.

I drive 20K per year and the only time I have experienced it in my 37 years of driving was in the 3 months post Katrina. Guess what although the gas was crappy my engine did not get damaged.


My point was that a SC'd stock engine isn't a "ticking time bomb," especially if it's putting out less than 450 hp; it would take some external factor (such as crappy gas) to cause it to blow.

A conservatively tuned S/C'd Marauder should not have any reliability issues if properly maintained, don't you agree?

[sailsmen]

Yes, I agree an OEM MM with an S/C in the 450RWHP range will not fail as a result of "too much power".

An S/C does not increase the peak loads on an engine it only increases the duration of the peak load.

I only posted about crappy gas because it is an easy out for a bad tune or bad work on the car like a poor wire connection on the IC Pump or a lean tune, etc.

Having said that I do recognize in some areas there are winter grades of gas that have been reported as not being very good. I also recognize in the Deep South it is incredibly hot. Both these are reasons why a tune should be done with a tuner who knows the area the car will operate in.

[SC Cheesehead]

Yes, I agree an OEM MM with an S/C in the 450RWHP range will not fail as a result of "too much power".

An S/C does not increase the peak loads on an engine it only increases the duration of the peak load.

I only posted about crappy gas because it is an easy out for a bad tune or bad work on the car like a poor wire connection on the IC Pump or a lean tune, etc.

Having said that I do recognize in some areas there are winter grades of gas that have been reported as not being very good. I also recognize in the Deep South it is incredibly hot. Both these are reasons why a tune should be done with a tuner who knows the area the car will operate in.


Absolutely! Any of those could create an issue, and agreed, the "bad gas" excuse has been used too often to cover the other things.

Big +1 on tuning for conditions.

[mgmsleeper]

i see both your points. what gas station is classified as "crappy gas" ?

[SC Cheesehead]

i see both your points. what gas station is classified as "crappy gas" ?

Any of these will give you good gasoline:

http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html

[RoyLPita]

Any of these will give you good gasoline:

http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html

I use Mobil 93 and my MM Pings. Go figure.

[mgmsleeper]

Any of these will give you good gasoline:

http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html


chevron 93 is all i use in any vehicle ..i guess im good in that area