NOS kit

[BirchMarauder]

http://www.andysautosport.com/mercury/2003_2004_marauder/performance/nitrous_oxide/nitrous_oxide_kits/nos/

If I have a DR tune, would that suffice with say a 75 or 100 shot used with the tps?

[RacerX]

Yes, that would work. I soldered my electronic on/off N2O switch wiring right into the TPS harness. DR's tune has timing advanced a little over stock. You need to remeber to pull timing before you run it each time in your SCT tuner.

[BirchMarauder]

I don't know what that means abt the timing in the sct. Also I'm actually looking for a kit that has a 20lb bottle but I can't seem to find one.

[RacerX]

If you have a DR tune, your plugs ignite the air/fuel mixture a little sooner than stock from Ford. Your crank rotates 360 degrees, your timing, ignition/spark is likely advanced more than a few degrees. You need to retard the advance in the sct tuner 4 degrees, maybe more for lets say a hundred shot of N2O. What you really need to do, is talk to Dennis R. and have him send you a tune for the N2O. He'll do it right.

[babbage]

If you have a DR tune, your plugs ignite the air/fuel mixture a little LATER than stock from Ford. Your crank rotates 360 degrees, your timing, ignition/spark is likely advanced more than a few degrees. You need to retard the advance in the sct tuner 4 degrees, maybe more for lets say a hundred shot of N2O. What you really need to do, is talk to Dennis R. and have him send you a tune for the N2O. He'll do it right.

fixed it ;)

[BirchMarauder]

Im going to have to talk to him abt a kit then.

[RacerX]

fixed it ;)
No, actually the timing is advanced in DR's and Lidio's tunes. Advancing the timing starts the explosion a bit sooner giving you more useable compression, less energy waste on the downstroke. You don't ignite at TDC, you'd lose a lot! As flame fronts will travel the same in a certain amount of time, your crank rotation speeds up as your rpms go up which means you actually have to ignite the mixture even sooner. :) I've actually advanced mine much more than any canned tune or DR's/Lidio's/Zack's(I've had all their tunes btw). Lot's of info on the pony sites and any good book like the 4.6l/5.4 mod motor builders books.

[Blackened300a]

No, actually the timing is advanced in DR's and Lidio's tunes. Advancing the timing starts the explosion a bit sooner giving you more useable compression, less energy waste on the downstroke. You don't ignite at TDC, you'd lose a lot! As flame fronts will travel the same in a certain amount of time, your crank rotation speeds up as your rpms go up which means you actually have to ignite the mixture even sooner. :) I've actually advanced mine much more than any canned tune or DR's/Lidio's/Zack's(I've had all their tunes btw). Lot's of info on the pony sites and any good book like the 4.6l/5.4 mod motor builders books.

Mines advanced pretty good too from JDM, as long as you have the fuel to support it, you can run some more timing BUT, more timing means more chance of igniting the fuel too early and cause detonation which is igniting the fuel as the piston is coming up. Also the weight of the car puts more load on the engine and plays a part in how much timing you can run.

[MrBluGruv]

I've actually advanced mine much more than any canned tune or DR's/Lidio's/Zack's(I've had all their tunes btw).

I actually pushed the timing tables up as far as they would go when I ran my Lidio tune, although I think I pulled it back a degree or two because I was paranoid.

I don't think I did that with my Zack tune, it just felt much more aggressive right out of the "box" than the Lidio did even with timing advances. Not to bash Lidio at all though of course, I'm pretty sure his tune yielded me the highest MPG I ever got out of that car.

[babbage]

No, actually the timing is advanced in DR's and Lidio's tunes. Advancing the timing starts the explosion a bit sooner giving you more useable compression, less energy waste on the downstroke. You don't ignite at TDC, you'd lose a lot! As flame fronts will travel the same in a certain amount of time, your crank rotation speeds up as your rpms go up which means you actually have to ignite the mixture even sooner. :) I've actually advanced mine much more than any canned tune or DR's/Lidio's/Zack's(I've had all their tunes btw). Lot's of info on the pony sites and any good book like the 4.6l/5.4 mod motor builders books.

Wow, learn something new every day. I always thought advancing the timing was making combustion process happen later. In a perfect world on the 4.6 what is the most advanced you can go before you lose power?

[RacerX]

It really depends on a few things. 22 to 23 seems to be about pushing the max. Every car (in the same model/year) is different to a small degree. Degreeing cams, compression ratio, afr, air temps, heat dissipation of the heads/exhaust, sharp edges in the combustion chamber that can cause hot spots that pre-ignite the charge (I removed all sharp edges when I P&P'd my head's chambers)...

[Blackened300a]

It really depends on a few things. 22 to 23 seems to be about pushing the max. Every car (in the same model/year) is different to a small degree. Degreeing cams, compression ratio, afr, air temps, heat dissipation of the heads/exhaust, sharp edges in the combustion chamber that can cause hot spots that pre-ignite the charge (I removed all sharp edges when I P&P'd my head's chambers)...

Im at 22 degrees, JDM said thats the peak.

[RacerX]

Im at 22 degrees, JDM said thats the peak.
They did a very nice job then. ;) Now I know why you're squeezing so much outa that lil ole 4.6 like mine N/A. :D

[SMOKE]

I need to adjust my timing w/ RacerX's old Zex kit nearing completion in my car. This thread pretty much gets into my question which is what to pull a Lidio 4:10 tune back? 6 degrees is sounding like a number....thoughts?

Best,
Jonathan

[Pat]

The Zex instruction sheet that came with my 100 shot recommends 2 degees of timing retardation for evey 50 HP of nitrous used. 100 shot = 4 degrees of retardation.

Another important point is heat build up on the plugs. 1. don't use platinum plugs. 2. long gound straps can act like a glow plug and cause detonation, use plug styles that have short ground strap(s). Use copper core plugs, heat range normal or 1 step cooler.

Tap your nitrous nozzel assembly 6-18 inches in front of the throttle body. Also index the nozzels to face the throttle body.

I recommend setting the traction control module RPM at that point where your car, without nitros, gains traction. Or else you may be loosing traction for a much longer time than necessary, assuming stock tires at 25-28 air pressure.

Keep the bottle full.

My MM went from 14.5 to 13 seconds in the 1/4 mile with a canned tune, 100 wet shot, 4:10's and 3500 stall converter.
(this was before installing the supercharger)

Regards,

[SMOKE]

Thanks Pat...your threads over the years are among a pile of stuff I've printed off the site and read and re-read for info....I've had the cooler plugs and stat in for years, have a window switch I'm thinking about starting ~3500 and off around 5000 based on an average I see across everyone's experience....now off to get the right fitting for the fuel rail (got the -3 side right and the 1/8" side wrong when I ordered off the web...ugh)

Jonathan