Another Eaton Swap

[03sport007]

Today it finally started!!!!! I drove the Marauder into the garage(Please no comments on how messy it is) and finally start my Eaton Swap.
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-7.jpg

It took about 2 months and was a lot of fun collecting parts.

There is good chance my wife will read this thread so I’ll be vague and say my cost where in line with what others have posted.

One thing I learned the hard way had to do with the blower itself. When looking for a blower there are a couple of things to keep in mind.
1. The IAT sensor. Mine came with one(IAT2) but I didn’t know what it was until I already bought one for a Lightning.
2. My blower also came with a aftermarket pulley. Good for some but having a stock motor I wanted to keep the boost in the safe range. Changing to a stock upper pulley was a extra cost(stock pulley and tool required to change it) that might have been avoided.


I also bought the a hub and lower pulley for a Lighting from LFP. Appears to be the same and all the research I did said it would fit a Marauder(I guess I'll find out). It’s quite a bit cheaper then the kit for the Cobra.


Here are all the threads I saved doing my research.


Fuel Pump Install.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=27632 (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=27632)


Another Fuel Pump Thread
http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=72536&highlight=Fuel+pump (http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=72536&highlight=Fuel+pump)


Another Fuel Pump Install Thread
http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=46678&highlight=Pump (http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=46678&highlight=Pump)


Discussion on type of fuel pumps to use.
http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62349&highlight=Fuel+pump (http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62349&highlight=Fuel+pump)


BAP Install Thread
http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=60348&highlight=Fuel+pump (http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=60348&highlight=Fuel+pump)


IAT Thread
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=65077 (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=65077)


Another IAT/IAT2 Thread
http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=68523&highlight=MAFia


Spark Plugs
http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=63664&highlight=Eaton (http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=63664&highlight=Eaton)


PCV System Thread
http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=72246 (http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=72246)


Another PCV System Thread Thanks to JustBob
http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62797 (http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62797)


One More PCV Thread
http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=55950 (http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=55950)


Nice Thread from DR about BAP, PVC and Vacuum Ports
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71238 (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71238)


Another Vacuum Port Thread
http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=60646 (http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=60646)


One More Vacuum Thread
http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62376 (http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62376)


MAF Thread
http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=55645 (http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=55645)


Throttle Cable Thread
http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=59078 (http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=59078)


Knock Sensor Question Thread
http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=73837 (http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=73837)


This thread should be a sticky thanks ImpalaSlayer
http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=67051 (http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=67051)


I know this is going to take a while so I bought something to get me back and forth to work.
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-6.jpg

The part that I thought would be the most frustrating was changing the fuel pump so that’s what I did first. Most of which has already been covered. I’ll add a couple of things.

1. I struggled with the disconnect for the fuel line. The tool I bought didn’t come with any direction but once again Google saved the day. The tool slides in until you hear a click then remove the tool and pull the two pieces apart. I would insert the tool hear a click and try and pull it apart leaving the tool in place. Didn’t work. Remove the tool after the click.

2. The other thing I struggled with like most other people was disconnecting the wires that connect to the hat. There are two sets of wires. One connects the Hat itself the other connect to something on top of the fuel tank. Some have recommended just cutting them and then splicing back together. I did both. I realized that the wires actually enter the area from under the spare tire. So removed the spare tire and pulled the connector through the hole where there is all the room you need disconnect the wires.
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo.jpg

I had no such luck with wires that connect to something on top of the tank so I cut those.
　
All in all wasn’t to bad but I’m looking forward to starting on the fun stuff

[Seneca]

Awsome! off to a good start keep us posted!

[guspech750]

You are going to have so much fun!! I know Justbob and I did!!
I love my Eaton Swap and all the extras I did soon after!! Enjoy it while it lasts. I miss it and would love to do another Eaton Swap.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[SC Cheesehead]

HOOHA! Good stuff! :up:

[guspech750]

Don't know about your emissions. But I wanted my EGR on and full emissions. The EGR does fit. Just have to spin it. And mod the EGR tube. Fits like a glove. No cowl cutting.

http://tapatalk.com/mu/638e200d-8064-498d.jpg
http://tapatalk.com/mu/638e200d-8085-f4ff.jpg
http://tapatalk.com/mu/638e200d-80aa-9cfb.jpghttp://tapatalk.com/mu/638e200d-8116-3e72.jpg


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[03sport007]

Thanks for showing the rest of us what‘s possible.:beer: I already ordered Justbobs PCV tub and have a friend at work that going help me adjust/modify the EGR tube. My plan is to follow your example. I think I’m in good shape we‘ll see.

[justbob]

You'll get her! These go quickly with just common sense. We had more fun just fabbing parts! The rest was all bolt and go. Take your time and take pride in it.

BTW, there is no need to remove the fuel line, loosen tank, nor remove any wires if you do the fuel pump again. Simply disconnect the right side hangar on the tailpipe and push it over an inch. Wiggle jiggle bang bang and the assembly fits out perfectly fine and you can replace the pump on the fly and reinstall.

This was posted live, in real time.

[guspech750]

You'll get her! These go quickly with just common sense. We had more fun just fabbing parts! The rest was all bolt and go. Take your time and take pride in it.

I think we did more talking like chicks than actually working!!




Another idea. I tend to use my car stereo to listen to tunes while cleaning the car or working in the garage. So I mounted my intercooler pump fuse up top of the fender well so I can pull the fuse easily and not run the pump and waste my battery while I have just my radio on. Just a thought.

http://tapatalk.com/mu/638e200d-92a1-6c8e.jpg

---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[bugsyc]

Fantastic posting.super informative...thank you for posting it.A definite reference piece.....OK 1 question....the "plug" that fits into the MAF on the MM is not long enough to reach the new MAF once it has been switched to the opposite side.correct...do we buy an extension for the plug or wire in additional length or buy a whole new plug???and if so,part # please.....Please be gentle with your answers.I'm an old man and don't really know scwat except I want a S/C on my MM....thanks....bugsy

[guspech750]

Fantastic posting.super informative...thank you for posting it.A definite reference piece.....OK 1 question....the "plug" that fits into the MAF on the MM is not long enough to reach the new MAF once it has been switched to the opposite side.correct...do we buy an extension for the plug or wire in additional length or buy a whole new plug???and if so,part # please.....Please be gentle with your answers.I'm an old man and don't really know scwat except I want a S/C on my MM....thanks....bugsy

All the sensors wire harness' and such need to be cut and extended. I bought 4 different colored rolls of wire, wire looms, lots of electrical tape, heat shrink wire connectors and lots of patience. I rerouted some of the newly lengthened harness's around the backside of the motor and some through the steel channel in front of the radiator. And don't foreget. You have to cut and lengthen the two wires in your MAF harness to your relocated IAT sensor.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[burt ragio]

Looks like you more than did your home work. What's your odometer reading ?

[bugsyc]

Thank you Guspech.now that's an answer I can work with..

[guspech750]

Your welcome. Anytime.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[justbob]

When you guys extend your harnesses, take the time to disect them a tad. There is so much wire that doesn't have to be extended! Simply reroute things like the battery ground on the front lower block. Take it out of the harness its currently in and transfer it to the other side of the block and find a stud to slide the eyelet onto. There is a few more battery related that can simply be swapped around.

But the ALT. Wire MUST make a very good connection at the extension. For that we used an aluminum electrical splicer found at home depot. You drill a couple holes in it for soldering once together, then slide the original cable in one end all the way through, then the extension cable through the other end all the way through, tighten the two allen screws, heat up and pour in solder, heat shrink, and wrap her up in plastic loom. Mine has had this set up for three years and still looks perfect. Maybe Joe has a pic or a part #.

This was posted live, in real time.

[guspech750]

Awesome point Mr B. I was hoping you'd bring that up as I couldn't remember it myself. And I just happen to have the packaging still. Home Depot
http://tapatalk.com/mu/638e200d-7635-db20.jpg

Drilled holes for the solder.
http://tapatalk.com/mu/638e200d-7ade-cb93.jpg
http://tapatalk.com/mu/638e200d-7afc-b967.jpg

And I did use some of these heatshrinks too. Especially for the larger battery and Alt. Wires. And I put one over the splicer reducer (pictured above) as added protection.
http://tapatalk.com/mu/638e200d-7695-aca1.jpg


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[03sport007]

JustBob and guspech750: Thanks for the additional info and keep it coming.

Burt Ragio: The car has about 64K and the motor seems healthy although I’m fully aware I’m rolling the dice

When I received my blower in the mail the packing was awesome(Thanks Todd) but there was oil all over the place. That was a little concerning. Upon inspection I noticed two things. The oil drain/fill plug was loose and that was the cause of my oil leak (good news). I also notice I had a little play in my pulley. What I mean is I would rotate the pulley by hand and there was some slack between that movement and when the rotors would move. With the advice of this site it was time to change my coupler and oil.


I found the best deal on a coupler and Supercharger Oil at Zzperfomance.com


This is obviously easier to do on a work bench then in the car.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-1.jpg

The first step is to remove to Oil from the supercharger. I was in luck because most of mine had already leaked out during shipping. Most of things I read suggested using either a squirt bottle top or a syringe to remove the oil. Sticking the plastic tubing in the drain/fill hole and siphon out the oil
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-9.jpg

For whatever reason I couldn’t get that to work so I just removed all the bolts from the snout and let the oil drain out. A little messing but it worked.

After removing all the bolts you have three basic parts. The Snout, the Bearing plate that houses the gears, and the case. Your first clue on how bad the coupler was is how easy things come apart. Because at this point the only thing holding the snout to the bearing plate is the coupler. If its warn then they come apart easy.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-3.jpg
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-4.jpg
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-2.jpg

You can kind of see the holes are little bigger on the coupler on the right and the cause of the play.
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-5.jpg

Re-assembly was pretty easy. I used a little Blue Loctite and torqued each bolt to 23ft pounds.

There is some debate on whether its necessary to us specific supercharger oil.

I filled mine up with about 8 ounces of Supercharger Oil from Zzperfomace.

All back together and the new coupler make a big difference. Very little play much tighter then before.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-8.jpg

[guspech750]

Sweet info man and good pics for sure. We did the swap on my car with about 60,000 and no issues to report at 67,000+ and two long road trips and many WOT runs.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[justbob]

Never took one apart myself. Kudos! Installed mine at 48,000 and currently at 85,000. And I USE my blower! Never a single hick up here.

This was posted live, in real time.

[myrodr]

put my eaton on with 72005 on the clock. lot of wot,my self and 17yr.old daughter at drag strip. i have 78000 on clock now. only fun to report!!! i run same LFP 10lbs. think i would like more. stock upper will hit hood insulation may want to use smaller upper if you like to keep insulation in place.

[03sport007]

Made some progress this weekend.
Installed the BAP. I followed JoeBoomz lead thanks for the write up it made the job relatively painless. I ran a 10 gauge wire from the battery with a inline 40amp fuse and a 40 amp relay.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-13.jpg

Last time I ran a wire from the trunk to the engine compartment was in a 1971 Firebird. There where more holes in that firewall then in Swiss cheese. The Marauder was a little more challenging. I used the cable for the hood release.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-14.jpg

About 4 months ago I did a the cooling mod so I wasn’t to worried about removing the intake manifold. At that time I removed the injectors from the manifold and just swong the rails and injectors out of the way. I had already bought the fuel line disconect tool when I swapped fuel pumps so this time my plan was to disconnect the fuel rails and leave them in the manifold. When I shut the car down after bringing it in the garage I pulled the fuel pump fuse thinking that would relief all the pressure in the line. Well I got a small shower when I disconnected the line at the tank and then another one when I did the Musclemerc Fuel Filter mod. I thought for sure I’d be safe disconnecting the fuel line at the rails. Nope!!!

I had a brief “What the Hell am I doing” moment grinding the knock snesors holes down. Something about that just did sit right but it passed quickly. I was also a little nervous about adjusting the stock coolant tube that runs under the manifold but it turned out to be pretty easy.

Installed the Cooling Mod.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-11.jpg


Lower Intake Manifold installed and looking good!!!!

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-12.jpg

I need to take my alternator to a machine shop so they can do the pulley swap.



http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-10.jpg

[guspech750]

Looking awesome!! More pics more pics!!

Mows a great time to start cleaning everything you can in the engine bay too. With the intake out and fuel rails gone and other things. Nows a good time to get it done. Especially your black valve covers.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[BODYMAN]

Sweet write up so far Josh! So the oil drain was loose? That bites I didnt notice that although I didnt do much to that blower do to finding a Whipple 3-days later. Great work refreshing the blower I feel that is very wise. So U like that packing gob?

[03sport007]

guspech750. That's good advice I plan on giving it a good detail before it goes to the tuner.

Todd. The packing Job was awesome!!! The drain plug was finger tight but the oil was contained to the packing for the blower the rest of the box was dry.

[03sport007]

Anybody have any idea how to get the pulley with the clutch of the alternator?The machine shop I brought it to said it can't be done.

[SC Cheesehead]

Anybody have any idea how to get the pulley with the clutch of the alternator?The machine shop I brought it to said it can't be done.


PM ImpalaSlayer, he can help you out.

[guspech750]

I think Bob and I used a BFH and a chissel.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[SC Cheesehead]

I think Bob and I used a BFH and a chissel.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

Sophisticated tools for a sophisticated job... ;)

Mo' hammer, mo' betta.

[justbob]

You can use a muffler gun, or find a nut that will fit snug half in/half out and use a socket. Don't ford dealers sell this tool?

Did you tape off the heads when you grinded?


This was posted live, in real time.

[03sport007]

I called the Ford dealership 3 miles from my house and they said they could do the swap for around $40. Seems fair.

Yes I had the intake taped off during grinding but when I used the shop vac to clean up the tape didn't make it. thanks for asking:).

[justbob]

I called the Ford dealership 3 miles from my house and they said they could do the swap for around $40. Seems fair.

Yes I had the intake taped off during grinding but when I used the shop vac to clean up the tape didn't make it. thanks for asking:).

$40.00! That's a hose job and a half! What jerks. This is a 30 sec. Job! Let me see if I have my tool handy, not sure if BradleyG gave it back or not. If I can find it, I'll send it to you tomorrow for FREE! Just send it back in a couple days. I hate not having it available.
This was posted live, in real time.

[03sport007]

Justbob you wouldn't have any more pictures of your EGR tube mod? I'm planning on taking that off tonight but I don't have a welder. I'm not sure how to communicate what I need done to the guy that actually is going to do the welding. I thought about cutting and modifying the tube then putting it back together with hose clamps. Then have the guy weld it. Or use the flexible pipe that goes on a water heater to make the shape I need and use that as template?

[03sport007]

$40.00! That's a hose job and a half! What jerks. This is a 30 sec. Job! Let me see if I have my tool handy, not sure if BradleyG gave it back or not. If I can find it, I'll send it to you tomorrow for FREE! Just send it back in a couple days. I hate not having it available.
This was posted live, in real time.

Thanks that would be very cool.

[justbob]

No I sure don't. We only spent a half hour on it really. I do remember the final product being three pieces, all in order of being cut off I believe, but the middle one being flipped backwards and cut down as the final piece of the puzzle.

Save the two OE ends and screw them in, making the center piece the final piece your last piece. Trim and check a few times, till it fits.

This pipe does NOT bend easily LOL! Clamps may work. At minimal put two marks on each end so no two end marks are the same. Label 1,2,3. Saves on the confusion...

This was posted live, in real time.

[justbob]

Thanks that would be very cool.

Your in luck. Pm me your info.

This was posted live, in real time.

[03sport007]

Your in luck. Pm me your info.

This was posted live, in real time.

Thank you very very much pm sent:beer:

[03sport007]

So I took my mid pipes off tonight so I can have my wideband bung welded in. The guy that's doing this has a plasma cutter and said he could neuter my rear cats(cut the top off and remove the innards) Has anyone done this? Does it sound funny? I know most just remove the cats and weld in a section of pipe.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-15.jpg

[BODYMAN]

So I took my mid pipes off tonight so I can have my wideband bung welded in. The guy that's doing this has a plasma cutter and said he could neuter my rear cats(cut the top off and remove the innards) Has anyone done this? Does it sound funny? I know most just remove the cats and weld in a section of pipe.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-15.jpg

If he can clear the cats out that would be fine, Not to mention anyone looking under the vehicle will think U still got 4-cats not 2. Ive seen others who have done this on mustangs, hollow out there cats.

[justbob]

No need for a plasma cutter. I simply use a cheap uni-bit (step bit). Make sure to install before the front cats for an accurate reading.

This was posted live, in real time.

[03sport007]

Just got done mounting Terry’s brackets. I’m very pleased with quality of the pieces they look great!!!

I ran into a couple of issues that haven’t been brought up before.
　
First make sure the smooth idler that you take from the right side of the engine and mount on the alternator bracket is mounted backwards. It should be facing the same way as if it was still mounted on the engine.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-18.jpg

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-21.jpg

The hardest part for me was swapping alternator pulleys. Thanks again to JustBob for loaning me the tool and providing some instructions. I’m embarrassed to report that I still could get the stupid thing off. In my defense I loaned out my compressor and air tools so I was without a impact gun. The good news is it was so easy for the Ford Dealership to do they only charged me $19.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-19.jpg

To my surprise the dealership doesn’t carry the bolt that is required to hold on the new pulley. Home Depot doesn’t either. I finally found one at a little hardware store. If anybody is wondering its a M16 fine pitch nut.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-20.jpg

Shots of the Final Product

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-17.jpg
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-16.jpg

[SC Cheesehead]

Looking good! :up:

[burt ragio]

Lookin good keep the pics coming.

[guspech750]

Looking good bubs!! Keep the pics coming.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[03sport007]

Cut the hoses for the cooling mod tonight

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-22.jpg

Had to grind a little off the lower intake to get everything to fit. The lower intake for the Eaton is lighter and less cumbersome then the stock lower intake. Makes taking in and out to make sure everything lines up much easier.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-23.jpg

Tomorrow night I’ll do spark plugs and then the fun starts.

[justbob]

We had to grind a little off Joe's as well. Still a damn nice kit, I was impressed! How did your smashing down the coolant pipe go? We wanted to be extra safe so we kept trial fitting the lower without gaskets and painted the pipe everytime to see where it was hitting the lower. Final drop in went without a hick up.

This was posted live, in real time.

[justbob]

I do see a MAJOR issue with how your working however... :) Do yourself a BIG favor and remove the wiper cowl! We even popped the hood off. The wiper cowl will give you sooooo much more room and visibilty. I truly wish someone would have told me that secret when I did my blower :(. Seriously, its a 15 minute job on a bad day, plus you can give it a good clean out that way. You will need to do this to mock up the EGR tube comfortably and then just keep setting the wiper cowl lower in place for checking clearances. Sorry I didn't notice this before.
This was posted live, in real time.

[03sport007]

We had to grind a little off Joe's as well. Still a damn nice kit, I was impressed! How did your smashing down the coolant pipe go? We wanted to be extra safe so we kept trial fitting the lower without gaskets and painted the pipe everytime to see where it was hitting the lower. Final drop in went without a hick up.

This was posted live, in real time.

It was surprisingly easy "smashing" the coolant pipe. It was one of the things I was worried about. I made sure everything fit without the gasket also but you got me nervous so I'll double check tonight. Thanks

[03sport007]

I do see a MAJOR issue with how your working however... :) Do yourself a BIG favor and remove the wiper cowl! We even popped the hood off. The wiper cowl will give you sooooo much more room and visibilty. I truly wish someone would have told me that secret when I did my blower :(. Seriously, its a 15 minute job on a bad day, plus you can give it a good clean out that way. You will need to do this to mock up the EGR tube comfortably and then just keep setting the wiper cowl lower in place for checking clearances. Sorry I didn't notice this before.
This was posted live, in real time.

Thanks for the tip I'll remove the cowl toninght. I thought about removing the hood but I'm flying solo and thought it would be to difficult.

I can't wait to actually mount the blower.

[MOTOWN]

Man this is getting good bud!

[guspech750]

Good catch Bob!!


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[03sport007]

My tuner recommended NGK TR6 gapped at .32 This is what I picked up at NAPA and as you can see there is quite a bit more thread on the NGK’s.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-24.jpg

Did I get the wrong spark plugs?

[MOTOWN]

No you didnt i had a set of ngk plugs they have the desired longer thread pitch

[CBT]

Holy crap, what gap is that bottom one at? Looks like you could fit a brick in there.


My tuner recommended NGK TR6 gapped at .32 This is what I picked up at NAPA and as you can see there is quite a bit more thread on the NGK’s.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-24.jpg

Did I get the wrong spark plugs?

[RacerX]

Holy crap, what gap is that bottom one at? Looks like you could fit a brick in there.
TWSS! :D REBORE!!! Throw a ham in and pull the bone out!!! :lol:

[CBT]

Holy crap, what gap is that bottom one at? Looks like you could fit a brick in there.


TWSS! :D REBORE!!! Throw a ham in and pull the bone out!!! :lol:

I guess that does read kind of kinky. Your welcome! :beer:
Butt seriously, is it just me?

[RacerX]

:D Yeah, it does look a bit bigger than it should.

[03sport007]

Holy crap, what gap is that bottom one at? Looks like you could fit a brick in there.


They appear to be the org plugs gapped at .052.

[03sport007]

Man I haven't changed spark plugs in long long time and don't remember it being this challenging. Anyway if I would have looked a little closer I would have noticed that the distance between the electrode and seat are the same. Live and learn I guess.

[DOOM]

:D Yeah, it does look a bit bigger than it should.

That's what she said! :P


Good luck with your swap bro! :beer:

[03sport007]

My Dad always tried to teach me to keep my work area clean and its something I’ve tried to live by. For what ever reason on this project I can’t seem to do it and my garage is eating parts and tools like crazy. It looks like my car threw up my garage its embarrassing.

I started the weekend installing my Heat Exchanger. I had planned on going with the Frozen Boost that’s so popular on this site. The one thing that concerned me was the fabricating of brackets. Fabricating anything has never been a strong point of mine. I know what your thinking and your probably right if you don’t have the basic ability to fabricate then you shouldn’t be doing a Eaton Swap.

As I was collecting parts FordNut posted he’s High Capacity Dual Pass modified Lighting Heat Exchanger for sale. Best of all it was already modified to fit his Marauder and included all the necessary brackets.
http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=73329

It went in with no issues and is very stealthy you can barely tell its there.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-26.jpg

Next I worked on the Vacuum setup for the Super Charger and the JustBob EGR mod. AutoZone sells a nice selection of pieces that made this relatively painless.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-29.jpg

I mocked everything up to make sure it all fit.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-27.jpg

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-28.jpg

The biggest pain in the but was the EGR tube itself. You need to be able to cut, weld and bend it to make it fit. With the help of a friend (Thanks Brent) and after about 8364 tries we finally got it to fit.

Took all back apart and installed the Lower intake. I didn’t know this when I was collecting parts but you can re-use your stock lower intake bolts.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-25.jpg

Make sure you use inch pounds and not foot pounds. 89 inch-lbs = about 7.5 Ft-lbs.

[guspech750]

Lookin good bubs. Looking good!!!


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[03sport007]

Thanks. Do you remember what the amp rating on the relay and inline fuse that you used for your intercooler pump was? I can't find it listed on my pump or google.




Lookin good bubs. Looking good!!!


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[guspech750]

Thanks. Do you remember what the amp rating on the relay and inline fuse that you used for your intercooler pump was? I can't find it listed on my pump or google.

http://img.tapatalk.com/638e200d-8c25-d5f9.jpg12v 30amp relay.
http://img.tapatalk.com/638e200d-8cce-f3f5.jpg Justbob and were not sure on the fuse so we elected for a 15amp fuse.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[03sport007]

Cool thanks.




http://img.tapatalk.com/638e200d-8c25-d5f9.jpg12v 30amp relay.
http://img.tapatalk.com/638e200d-8cce-f3f5.jpg Justbob and were not sure on the fuse so we elected for a 15amp fuse.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[SC Cheesehead]

12v 30amp relay.
Justbob and were not sure on the fuse so we elected for a 15amp fuse.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

Per Casey, it's over 9,000... ;)

PM ImpalaSlayer if you need a double check.

[burt ragio]

I ordered a complete wire harness with fuse & relay for $38.00 P/N 825580-003 . Phone 805-289-0044

[guspech750]

I ordered a complete wire harness with fuse & relay for $38.00 P/N 825580-003 . Phone 805-289-0044

That's a nice little deal. But I think I paid $5 for the relay and fuse at the auto parts store. Not a harness. But pretty darn simple and saved some $$. I did fork over $$$ for the pump pigtail.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[03sport007]

Thanks for the tip. As I read through old post you've been collecting parts for a long time you must be getting close.



I ordered a complete wire harness with fuse & relay for $38.00 P/N 825580-003 . Phone 805-289-0044

[03sport007]

As I researched what amperage relay and fuse to get for my Intercooler pump I quickly realized not all pumps are created equal.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-30.jpg

I received the smaller one as part of a package deal. I had never seen one before so I thought they were all the same. I Don’t know it may have worked just fine but I decided it was a critical enough part not to chance i so I picked up a new Bosch from ZZperfomance. To bad my pigtail doesn't fit.
　
　
Anybody know why the intercool pump and heat exchanger have ¾inch inlets and the intercooler manifold has 5/8inch inlets? Do they make a adapter?

[guspech750]

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-30.jpg

　
　
Anybody know why the intercool pump and heat exchanger have ¾inch inlets and the intercooler manifold has 5/8inch inlets? Do they make a adapter?

Duhhhhhhh.. Geesh. If you don't know........... well. :)

I thought they did it to just FK with us. Pretty stupid I think.


Good call on buying the Bosch. I did the same. I thought why chance it. If it's good for the Cobra. It has to be WAY better for my MM..

---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[justbob]

　
Anybody know why the intercool pump and heat exchanger have ¾inch inlets and the intercooler manifold has 5/8inch inlets? Do they make a adapter?

They make hoses with pre-bent 90's, and if you look hard enough, some will also have 5/8" on one end and 3/4" on the other. You could also just get the plastic adapter fittings as you will need them anyways because of length issues. All this can be found behind the counter at autozone or advance.


This post is rated E for everyone.

[burt ragio]

Thanks for the tip. As I read through old post you've been collecting parts for a long time you must be getting close..

Yes I have everything needed to do the conversion. The next challenge is some down time since it is my primary transpotation.

[03sport007]

They make hoses with pre-bent 90's, and if you look hard enough, some will also have 5/8" on one end and 3/4" on the other. You could also just get the plastic adapter fittings as you will need them anyways because of length issues. All this can be found behind the counter at autozone or advance.


This post is rated E for everyone.


I just figured it would all be the same and bought 500ft of the 3/4 went to plumb it up and quickly realized I had a small problem

[03sport007]

.

Yes I have everything needed to do the conversion. The next challenge is some down time since it is my primary transpotation.

Trust me I know what you mean the more I researched it the more I realized there was no way I was going to do it in a weekend. I lucked out and found a 94 Grand Marquis owned by the stereotypical old lady for $500 bucks. Runs like a champ. I sure I’ll be able to sell it when I’m done for about the same. Thats the plan anyway.

[SC Cheesehead]

Trust me I know what you mean the more I researched it the more I realized there was no way I was going to do it in a weekend. I lucked out and found a 94 Grand Marquis owned by the stereotypical old lady for $500 bucks. Runs like a champ. I sure I’ll be able to sell it when I’m done for about the same. Thats the plan anyway.

Trilogy you could prolly do in a weekend, but the first time off for an Eaton swap, especially with the fabbed stuff and other minor modifications needed, a weekend would be a push.

The Z-man, ImpalaSlayer or justbob, might could do it, but they've got some prior experience with the swap.

[03sport007]

I made an appointment for my dyno tune. The car goes in Friday Dec 2nd and I can't wait!!! Talk with the tuner for about 20min sounded like he he knew what he was talking about but let's be honest I wouldn't know if he didn't. One thing that he said that I haven't heard anybody else talk about was keeping the car overnight for a cold start. He said making this kind of radical change to the car he wants to make sure cold start part of tune acts like it should. He said he wants it to behave like a normal car. Sounded good to me but what do you guys think?

[guspech750]

I don't know about that overnight cold start thing. All I know is my car with the swap runs great. Hot, cold, first start of the cold morning what ever. No hicups. And I didn't leave my car overnight. I don't know.

Maybe he wants to DR your car and you'll get it back all Fked up with body damage and blown engines.

Just joshing you.
Hope you are having fun. I know I'm jonesing to do another Eaton swap.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[03sport007]

I'm having fun!!!!! I'm getting to know the guys at the parts store more then i want to though. And driving a 94 Grand Marquis is getting old fast. Talk about SLOW.

[burt ragio]

I made an appointment for my dyno tune. The car goes in Friday Dec 2nd and I can't wait!!! Talk with the tuner for about 20min sounded like he he knew what he was talking about but let's be honest I wouldn't know if he didn't. One thing that he said that I haven't heard anybody else talk about was keeping the car overnight for a cold start. He said making this kind of radical change to the car he wants to make sure cold start part of tune acts like it should. He said he wants it to behave like a normal car. Sounded good to me but what do you guys think?

Maybe Racerx can mention a few thing to look for in the tuners tune.

[guspech750]

I'm having fun!!!!! I'm getting to know the guys at the parts store more then i want to though. And driving a 94 Grand Marquis is getting old fast. Talk about SLOW.

Lolololol!! Part store socialites. Yes sir. I know what you mean. Funny stuff.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[03sport007]

I didn't get a lot done this weekend spent time with the family instead.

I did learn something thow. When it comes to the cross over tube I cheated. I bought one already done from a member on this site that decided he was going to put the eaton on his Cobra instead of his Marauder. I didn't come with the 2 coolant sensors and of course I broke one of mine try to take it out of my cross over tube. The 2 seniors looked identical to me until I tried to buy a new one. There is a very subtle difference in how the pigtail attaches to the sensor. Napa, Autozone and Oriely's all had the one that I didn't break witch is the one on the passenger side. Nobody had the one on the drivers side and had no idea how to get one because the computer keep spiting out the part# for the one I didn't need. So I took the part# off the one that I broke and called the Ford dealership. Some of you probably already know this but the sensor in the cooling tube that's on the drivers side is a cylinder head temp sensor. Weird.

I also noticed that my alternator is quiet when I rotate in the direction that's normal but squeaks and feels like a bearing might be going out when I rotate in the direction it will be spinning now(backwards). So I'll take it to a starter/alternator rebuild shop this week and see what they say.

Baby steps.

[71cyclone]

Replace the brushes since they have worn in one direction already [sugestion]

[burt ragio]

May be a good time to upgrade your alternator www.dbelectric.com (http://www.dbelectric.com)

[RacerX]

Maybe Racerx can mention a few thing to look for in the tuners tune.
Sounds like he wants to make sure the IAC is spot on @ cold startup and he can check cold tables and adders. He wants to take more time with the tune than some would. That's a good thing!

[03sport007]

Sounds like he wants to make sure the IAC is spot on @ cold startup and he can check cold tables and adders. He wants to take more time with the tune than some would. That's a good thing!

That makes me feel beter. Thanks

[03sport007]

As I was gathering parts one of the things I struggled to find was the bolts for the I/C to blower, blower to lower intake and lower intake to cylinder heads. After putting it all together I realized you can re-use your lower intake bolts. It's not recommended that you re-use I/C to blower bolts so buying those used probably not a good idea. You can buy new ones from Stegmeier cheaply.

I found this thread useful for assembling the blower.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/266805-how-blower-removal-installation.html

Monday I received my modified EGR tube and couldn't wait to get home and install it. Unfortantly when I mocked up my EGR tube I didn't have my fuel rails installed. So its fits perfectly as long as I don't have my fuel rails installed:mad2: I hate negitive progress!!!!

[guspech750]

As I was gathering parts one of the things I struggled to find was the bolts for the I/C to blower, blower to lower intake and lower intake to cylinder heads. After putting it all together I realized you can re-use your lower intake bolts. It's not recommended that you re-use I/C to blower bolts so buying those used probably not a good idea. You can buy new ones from Stegmeier cheaply.

I found this thread useful for assembling the blower.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/266805-how-blower-removal-installation.html

Monday I received my modified EGR tube and couldn't wait to get home and install it. Unfortantly when I mocked up my EGR tube I didn't have my fuel rails installed. So its fits perfectly as long as I don't have my fuel rails installed:mad2: I hate negitive process!!!

Hey. Where some pics of your swap?

Sucks about your EGR tube. You'll get it. Nice to know about Stegy selling those bolts. Didnt know that. Good info.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[bugsyc]

I didn't get a lot done this weekend spent time with the family instead.

I did learn something thow. When it comes to the cross over tube I cheated. I bought one already done from a member on this site that decided he was going to put the eaton on his Cobra instead of his Marauder. I didn't come with the 2 coolant sensors and of course I broke one of mine try to take it out of my cross over tube. The 2 seniors looked identical to me until I tried to buy a new one. There is a very subtle difference in how the pigtail attaches to the sensor. Napa, Autozone and Oriely's all had the one that I didn't break witch is the one on the passenger side. Nobody had the one on the drivers side and had no idea how to get one because the computer keep spiting out the part# for the one I didn't need. So I took the part# off the one that I broke and called the Ford dealership. Some of you probably already know this but the sensor in the cooling tube that's on the drivers side is a cylinder head temp sensor. Weird.

I also noticed that my alternator is quiet when I rotate in the direction that's normal but squeaks and feels like a bearing might be going out when I rotate in the direction it will be spinning now(backwards). So I'll take it to a starter/alternator rebuild shop this week and see what they say.

Baby steps.
What are you doing with your original crossover tube?Want to sell it.PM me.bugsy

[03sport007]

Hey. Where some pics of your swap?

Sucks about your EGR tube. You'll get it. Nice to know about Stegy selling those bolts. Didnt know that. Good info.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

Sorry.....nothing new to take pics of.

[03sport007]

What are you doing with your original crossover tube?Want to sell it.PM me.bugsy

I plan on selling most of stuff that I'm not using anymore(cooling mod, stock intake, JLT CAI) but I think I'm going to hold onto my crossover tube. Sorry

[guspech750]

I plan on selling most of stuff that I'm not using anymore(cooling mod, stock intake, JLT CAI) but I think I'm going to hold onto my crossover tube. Sorry

Yes. COT's are like gold around here. I kept my spare COT.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[03sport007]

Got my EGR tube figured out. Now I see why most people just do a EGR delete that was a major pain in the butt. Not really having access to a welder or a cool set of tools I had to think a little outside the box. With the advice of JustBob I cut the EGR tube into three pieces with my trusty dremal. The 2 end pieces are easy its bringing them together with the 3rd piece that took some patience. I went to Home Depot and bought some ¾ inch steel pipe. It fits perfectly over the existing EGR tube. Its tight enough that it doesn’t want to move but will with a little effort. I then made 2 notches 90 degrees from each other so I could bend the pipe any way I needed. After I got the desired shape I drilled 2 tiny holes and drove nails in them to keep everything from moving. I took that to the welder.

Sorry no picture pre-weld my phone died with a lot of my pictures on it.

Final product. Not pretty but it will be covered by the heat wrap.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-38.jpg

It was time to tackal the wiring. I couldn't help but notice nobody really talks about this in any of the other threads. I think Impalaslayer said it was tedious and man was he right. You better be comfortable soldering because there is a lot of it. I used 5 rolls of electrical tape. Crazy!!!!!


I was a little unprepared for the scope of the wiring so I'll share what I did.

Battery. I followed JustBobs advice and used a coupler that he mentioned earlier in this thread. The stock positive battery cable has three pieces (Starter, Main Fuse Box and Alternator). I re-used the part for the alternator. I Bought a 72 inch cable form NAPA and ran it from the driver side into one side of the coupler. I secured a new wire for the Main Fuse box and the old postive battery cable in the other side of the coupler. I then cut a ¾ piece of heater hose to insulate the coupler and rapped with electrical tape.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-36.jpg

EGR Pigtail: This can be extended you just need to unravel the stock wiring loom.

Crapy Picture I know
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-31.jpg

Final product
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-32.jpg

Alternator: The alternator has a pigtail for the voltage regulator and a heavy gage wire that connects to the battery. I re-used the stock heavy gage wire for the battery and decided to extend the pigtail around the back of the engine. In hind sight it probably would have been easier to go across the front of the motor. The pigtail also uses a heavier gage wire.

IAC and TPS. Both need to be extended.

The MAF and IAT need to be separated and extended.
It seems like a lot of people struggle wiring the IAT2 sensor so I was a little nervous but it appears to be working correctly.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-34.jpg

I cut a piece of my old battery tray for the bracket to attach the Intercooler tank. I know cheesy it looks ok in real life

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-35.jpg

Hope to start it tomorrow!!!! :banana:

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-37.jpg

[DOOM]

Nice work! :up:

Looking good! :coolman:

[guspech750]

Looking good boosted brotha! Looking good!!!

[justbob]

Me wants video or it didn't happen. None of it. :)

This post is rated E for everyone.

[MOTOWN]

Coming together very nicely

[03sport007]

Thanks guys for the nice remarks.

Finally got it finished today (I thought).

Engine doesn’t look that dirty in person…don’t worry I’ll clean it.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-41.jpg

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-40.jpg

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-39.jpg

Started by filling the Intercooler Reservoir. Funny the car kind of sounds like a fish tank now.

Thanks guspech750 for the fuse tip on the intercooler pump. I never would have thought of that and its already come in handy.

So I got all the air out of the intercooler/heat exchanger filled the radiator and COT and now its time for the moment of truth…..will it start?

Turn the key I think I hear the fuel pump turn on but not completely sure. Go to start and it cranks over for a few seconds and nothing.:bigcry: I think to myself maybe the fuel lines just need to be pressurized. Cycle the key a couple more time and figure out that the fuel pump isn’t cycling.
　
Immediately I think BAP and I was right. I double check my wiring and its all good. I get the volt meter out and I’ve got power everywhere I need except coming out of the BAP. Nothing!!!! I checked the fuses. Good. Replace them anyway. Still nothing!!!:mad2:

Needless to say I’m a little disappointed. But I'm going crazy I need to see if this runs so I bypass the BAP and turn the key. No mistaking that noise….fuel pump is on and sounds good. Cycle the key a couple more times and then try and start it. On the second try she fires right up. No leaks or funny noises AWESOME!!!! :banana:

Anybody know were the best deal is on a NEW BAP?

[guspech750]

SWEET!! Welcome to the world of BOOST!!!! Sorry about the BAP. That sucks. Other wise, looks good my man. Can't wait to see what the final numbers after the dyno tune are!!

Man. That's what I miss the most. Buying all the parts and putting it all together. That was so much fun. Hanging out with Justbob talking like little girls till the wee hours at night.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[SC Cheesehead]

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg203/tbone217/Borat-VeryNice.gif

You're gonna love it! Looking forward to the dyno numbers.

[myrodr]

nice work! you will LOVE the way it can smoke tires now!

[myrodr]

just thinking, if you are running stock upper pulley it will rub the liner under your hood. cause it did on mine. think i will go to a 3" pulley later.

[guspech750]

just thinking, if you are running stock upper pulley it will rub the liner under your hood. cause it did on mine. think i will go to a 3" pulley later.

I have a 3" upper. And it rubs the liner a little. I just need to cut a neat hole for it. And spray paint the liner black to make it look nicer.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[justbob]

Very nice Bud!

This post is rated E for everyone.

[03sport007]

Thanks guys.

The hood insulation definitely hits the upper pulley.

I was in luck my tuner had a BAP in stock. So I'm still on track for the dyno tomorrow. I'll be going nuts all weekend because they are keeping it over the weekend for a cold start on Monday. Wish me luck.

[guspech750]

Thanks guys.

The hood insulation definitely hits the upper pulley.

I was in luck my tuner had a BAP in stock. So I'm still on track for the dyno tomorrow. I'll be going nuts all weekend because they are keeping it over the weekend for a cold start on Monday. Wish me luck.

Wooooooo hooooooo. Oh yeah.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[03sport007]

Good news/Bad news


The good news is the new BAP is installed and working as it should. If your collecting parts for a Eaton Swap might want to think about buying a new BAP. There have been a high percentage of people on this site with issues buying a used one.

Bad news is the tune that my tuner sent me doesn't work. What I mean is after I load it into the car It won't even turn over. The lights on the dash are dim fuel pump doesn't cycle. Weird? Put the zack 2.0 in and it fires right up.

I also have a strange cooling system issue that I'll start another thread about.

[guspech750]

I too went through 3 or 4 tunes to get it started. Zack came through for me. Thank you Zack.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[burt ragio]

To bad about the bad KB Boost a Pump. I think I got mine at a good price form vendor on svt performance. Mention your a member they will give you a discount.

[03sport007]

Wow!!!!!! Within 30 minutes of emailing Zack I have a tune. Don't even know the guy. VERY COOL!!

[guspech750]

Wow!!!!!! Within 30 minutes of emailing Zack I have a tune. Don't even know the guy. VERY COOL!!

Sweet!! He is very helpful. And ungodly cute:lol:


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[justbob]

Wow!!!!!! Within 30 minutes of emailing Zack I have a tune. Don't even know the guy. VERY COOL!!

Zack isn't a guy, he is a machine.

This post is rated E for everyone.

[SC Cheesehead]

Zack isn't a guy, he is a machine.

This post is rated E for everyone.

They even wrote a frickn' song about that...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rcCS8AK6csg

[bugsyc]

To bad about the bad KB Boost a Pump. I think I got mine at a good price form vendor on svt performance. Mention your a member they will give you a discount.
Which vendor????

[burt ragio]

BBR Blow By Racing Boca Raton Fla. Bought 5/11/10.
Als type in under search lowest price KB Boost a Pump.

[03sport007]

Finally out of hibernation. Looking forward to giving her a good bath before it goes to the tuners.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-43.jpg

Is this a problem? Notice how close the stop is on the idler. I obviously don’t have a lot of slack left. How much does the belt stretch? I couldn’t get the belt that’s listed on the Eaton Parts List to work and 8 rib belts aren’t very popular. Most of the part stores I visited didn’t have a large selection.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-42.jpg

[MOTOWN]

Ahhhh a boosted birch! enjoy(after tuning)

[burt ragio]

Good question. My guess is it should be fine but the ideal belt would allow the tentioner some where in the middle.

[guspech750]

http://img.tapatalk.com/a6898e98-cb5c-7a75.jpg

I've got more than enough tension left.
I have a 3" upper and 2pound lower.

---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[BODYMAN]

Ah Zack helps another member. That fricking guy helps everyone and dont think twice about it. Yea so he is out spoken (sowhat) he knows his ****! If they ever let him back I would make a big FAT donation! I beleive some others would to...

[bugsyc]

Does anyone know of an alternative to the metco quick change lower pulley kit or the LFP cobra2 both are about 350....LFP does make one for 209 and comes with the belt or a belt.I asked LFP and they couldn't or wouldn't answer me...anyone know for sure???

[burt ragio]

Bugsyc, All you need is lower pulley P/N LF 9600 by Lightning Force. You can also request any belt size of choice.

[03sport007]

I used the one from LFP for $209 seems to work good. The don't sell a belt that fits so you still need to get one of those. Keep in mind I havent actually driven my car yet so take this with a grain of salt.

[bugsyc]

any problems installing it?does the belt that comes wit it fit?

[burt ragio]

I had the same question about the correct lower pulley. When 03sport007 said he ordered that same lower pulley I called LFP. They said the only differance were some brackets. Maybe some else one can confirm that it is the correct pulley .

[justbob]

Josh, my stop is all but touching and hasn't yet slipped on the dyno. Mine will only slip if I let off to quickly.

This post is rated E for everyone.

[03sport007]

Josh, my stop is all but touching and hasn't yet slipped on the dyno. Mine will only slip if I let off to quickly.

This post is rated E for everyone.

Ok thanks that makes me feel better. I bought a belt from NAPA 25080537. It's listed as 54 and 1/2 inch in the official eaton swap parts list but mine is 54 and 1/4 inch. For the life of me I can't get it to fit. I've ground off the stop on the other side of the idler and still not enough. I don't know I could be missing something? The next size up that they sell is 55 and 1/8 inch. That's it no special order anything because they don't make it. So I bought the 55 and 1/8 and thats what it looks like.

I couldn't get the tune that Zack sent me load into my xcal2 and the one that my tuner sent me i can load but it doesn't work. I really don't want to have it trailered(expensive) but I'm running out of options.

[03sport007]

I've received a lot of pm's with questions about the swap(how hard was it, cost, what parts do you need). I'm waiting until its complete then I'll do a final write up within this thread. Stay tuned.

[justbob]

What year is yours? I may have a file saved that will work.

[bugsyc]

Thank you Burt for a straight answer...at times,hard to get

[03sport007]

What year is yours? I may have a file saved that will work.

The problem is I have the updated firmware in my xcsl2 so I can't load the old .xtr file types.

It's a 03. ECM code CDR1 if you need it. Thanks

[guspech750]

Ok thanks that makes me feel better. I bought a belt from NAPA 25080537. It's listed as 54 and 1/2 inch in the official eaton swap parts list but mine is 54 and 1/4 inch. For the life of me I can't get it to fit. I've ground off the stop on the other side of the idler and still not enough. I don't know I could be missing something? The next size up that they sell is 55 and 1/8 inch. That's it no special order anything because they don't make it. So I bought the 55 and 1/8 and thats what it looks like.

I couldn't get the tune that Zack sent me load into my xcal2 and the one that my tuner sent me i can load but it doesn't work. I really don't want to have it trailered(expensive) but I'm running out of options.

DTUB (Doug) a member here rounded out my tensioner bolt holes a little so I was able to rotate the tensioner closer to the belt. After that. I was able to get the belt on. ( at the time. I was in a bind at my dyno session. Car made too much boost so I had to swap lower pullies since I was shipped a 4lb lower instead of a 2lb lower like I ordered. So after I swapped lower pullies. My original belt was too long and the belt DTUB gave me was to short. So he rounded out the bolts holes a little and also gave my tensioner more travel. And his belt fit. All that happened at my dyno session) I don't recall how long my belt is. But it's hard to get on. Nice and tight. No belt slip.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[bugsyc]

do we use the IAT2 sensor on an Eatonswap.the one that bolts to the back of the blower???

[SC Cheesehead]

do we use the IAT2 sensor on an Eatonswap.the one that bolts to the back of the blower???

Yes.

-------------------

[guspech750]

I put my IAT, like others in the lower intake. And I used the original Cobra IAT hole as my boost port. Something different.
http://img.tapatalk.com/a69363be-de73-09ec.jpg




---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[03sport007]

I put my IAT, like others in the lower intake. And I used the original Cobra IAT hole as my boost port. Something different.
http://img.tapatalk.com/a69363be-de73-09ec.jpg




---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

I like it!!!

[1stMerc]

The problem is I have the updated firmware in my xcsl2 so I can't load the old .xtr file types.

It's a 03. ECM code CDR1 if you need it. Thanks

Did you put the pcm back to stock before updating the tuner?

If not you may have to get another pcm.

Ask me how i know..

[03sport007]

As I’m patiently waiting for may car to get tuned (big lie can’t wait!!!!) I thought I’d post a couple of things.

First I’d like start with a BIG Thank You to:
JustBob
Guspech750
SC Cheeseshead
BobyMan

I hate to sound like a cliché but I NEVER could have done this without you guys!!!

For anybody thinking about doing this make sure you go in with your eyes wide open. You are increasing the power output of your motor by 70 percent. To think there won’t be consequences is not rational.

This is not a kit. There is no 1-800 number to call. Your biggest resource is this web site. Which really means there are only a handful of people with knowledge to help you.

That being said being said if I can do it then anybody can!!!!! All the information you need is on this site.

[SC Cheesehead]

As I’m patiently waiting for may car to get tuned (big lie can’t wait!!!!) I thought I’d post a couple of things.

First I’d like start with a BIG Thank You to:
JustBob
Guspech750
SC Cheeseshead
BobyMan

I hate to sound like a cliché but I NEVER could have done this without you guys!!!

For anybody thinking about doing this make sure you go in with your eyes wide open. You are increasing the power output of your motor by 70 percent. To think there won’t be consequences is not rational.

This is not a kit. There is no 1-800 number to call. Your biggest resource is this web site. Which really means there are only a handful of people with knowledge to help you.

That being said being said if I can do it then anybody can!!!!! All the information you need is on this site.

Hey, you're welcome!

It's great that I can return the favors extended to me from guys like ImpalaSlayer, Zack, jdenning, swordfish, and others.

Like you said, the Eaton swap isn't a kit, and rounding up the parts can be a challenge, but I'd do it again in a heartbeat; I gained so much knowledge from doing this mod (not to mention gaining said HP as well...:D).

[03sport007]

So close I can smell it!!!!

My tuners calls today and says that my FPDM is going into thermal shut down at around 5000rpms. He says he measured the current draw and its not enough to cause a issue so he thinks the module itself is the issue. Luckily one of the local dealerships had one in stock ($100) and he should be able to finish tomorrow.

He said the HP peaked at about 350 and everything was looking good until the FPDM shut down. He thinks I’ll be around 380 when its all said and done.

Seems a little low.

He mentioned that I could easily be 400+ with a little more timing but doesn’t recommend it. He recommends keeping it nice and “safe”. The highest octane gas we sell in Oregon is 92 so I’m happy. At the end of the day I just want to be able to lay rubber.





http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-44.jpg

[guspech750]

Wooooooooooooooo Hooooooooooooooo!! Oh yeah. Wooooooooooooooo Hooooooooooooooo!! Oh yeah..


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[justbob]

Your certainately welcome Bud! Hope she lays down some good power.

[burt ragio]

All your hard work & determination paid off. You must be happier than a kid in a candy store.

[03sport007]

Final numbers are in: 374HP and 384 ft-lbs. Seem a little low compared to what others have reported. It was on a Mustang Dynamometer.

Anyway HOLY CRAP!!!!!!! What a difference….its like a completely different car. Anything more then ½ throttle and I’m laying rubber and that’s AWESOME.

The bad news is I lost my Zack 2.0 shift schedule. For whatever reason he couldn’t save it? He installed he’s own shift schedule which is better then stock but not what I want. Not sure how to handle that one yet.

The other issue is the car is throwing a p0402 code which probably has something to do with modifying the EGR valve and a P1000 code. It didn’t throw the code until I was almost home from the tuners. I cleared it and it has not come back on yet. Crossing my fingers

[justbob]

Hmm. Have yet to see a 402 code from modifying? 1000 just means readiness cycles "aren't ready". I need to think about the EGR excessive flow.

[burt ragio]

What did the tuner say about the code ?

[guspech750]

Final numbers are in: 374HP and 384 ft-lbs. Seem a little low compared to what others have reported. It was on a Mustang Dynamometer.

Anyway HOLY CRAP!!!!!!! What a difference….its like a completely different car. Anything more then ½ throttle and I’m laying rubber and that’s AWESOME.

The bad news is I lost my Zack 2.0 shift schedule. For whatever reason he couldn’t save it? He installed he’s own shift schedule which is better then stock but not what I want. Not sure how to handle that one yet.

The other issue is the car is throwing a p0402 code which probably has something to do with modifying the EGR valve and a P1000 code. It didn’t throw the code until I was almost home from the tuners. I cleared it and it has not come back on yet. Crossing my fingers

I'm glad you are able to enjoy your swap now. Happy for ya. Contact Zack about the shift schedule. I'm sure he can fix it for ya.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[03sport007]

What did the tuner say about the code ?

The tuner has turned out to be bit of a disappointment. To be honest I haven't even brought it up. I'm sure for a small fee they'd be willing to investigate.

From the little research I've done the code is saying that the egr is open when it's not suppose to be. It's ironic that the egr wiring is the only wiring I didn't touch so I'm guessing it has to do with the actual modifying of the valve itself. The check engine light hasn't come back on so I'm hoping it was an anomaly.

I never been that lucky before but you never know.

[03sport007]

I'm glad you are able to enjoy your swap now. Happy for ya. Contact Zack about the shift schedule. I'm sure he can fix it for ya.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

That's an awsome new avatar pic. I think that's what you call that

Sense Zach was unable to help with the pre-dyno tune(not for lack of trying) I'm afraid he can't help now.

I'm contiplating the SCT pro racer software so I can do it myself. It's not cheap.

[burt ragio]

To bad on the temporary set back on code. You would think the tuner would be more than happy to get to the bottom of cause. Iam sure another member can help.

[justbob]

This has to be in the tune. There is nothing at all that you could have done wrong, unless you tore a hole in the diaphram which I highly doubt. The spring inside didn't shift did it?

[03sport007]

This has to be in the tune. There is nothing at all that you could have done wrong, unless you tore a hole in the diaphram which I highly doubt. The spring inside didn't shift did it?

I'm not sure? The good news is i still dont have check engine light so I'm still hoping its ok? I should be able to take it off and apart again without to much trouble. I'll do that if I throws a code again.

I've got 2 other things hanging over my head:

My final numbers are kinda of low. It's not a ego thing I'm just wondering if something wrong. We have seen numbers with my set up range from 377 to 440. I know that every dyno is different but everybody that has posted numbers on the low side have been in the summer(hot intake air) and at 12 degrees of timing. I was in the middle of winter and at 15 degrees of timing.

The tuner said I was at about 10 of boost. Which also seems a little low. I'm wondering if my lower pulley ring might not be what I think it is. I know guspch750 received the wrong one(smaller more boost). Mine might be bigger(less boost) and that would explain why I'm couldn't get my belt to fit. I'm running a belt that almost a inch bigger then most.

The other thing that sucks is my shift schedule. I was VERY clear with my tuner that I wanted to keep what I had and he never mentioned that would be a problem. Every time I drive the car its mixed emotion. The extra power is intoxicating but being in overdrive with tc locked 30mph sucks.

I'm torn between finding another tuner (easy if I had a Honda or Subaru) or buying the software to fix it myself.

[71cyclone]

Speaking of swaps . Is the 04 Cobra S/C engine a direct bolt in without any hood modification ? I took measurements [primative] and it looks ok

[guspech750]

It would clear the hood. The front Cobra engine cover should be changed to the Marauder cover and I believe oil pump has to be changed to the Marauder pump.

Or leave the Cobra engine cover on and notch the frame so the alternator clears the frame.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[71cyclone]

Thanx for the info because i am looking for a qwick conversion close to factory specs

[SC Cheesehead]

Speaking of swaps . Is the 04 Cobra S/C engine a direct bolt in without any hood modification ? I took measurements [primative] and it looks ok


It would clear the hood. The front Cobra engine cover should be changed to the Marauder cover and I believe oil pump has to be changed to the Marauder pump.

Or leave the Cobra engine cover on and notch the frame so the alternator clears the frame.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

Swap engine covers and go with a set of gortsch brackets, that's my recommendation.

Going with the Cobra engine, you're going to pick up about 80 lbs, and also have a lower compression engine, but you can get the HP up with more boost.

Also, keep in mind that you're still going to have to do some of the basic Eaton swap mods (battey relocation, repositioning fuse box, etc.), IMO, the Eaton swap is still an easier way to go.

[guspech750]

Won't look any different than my Eaton Swap.
http://img.tapatalk.com/a69361bc-d8f8-9f05.jpg


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[SC Cheesehead]

Won't look any different than my Eaton Swap.
http://img.tapatalk.com/a69361bc-d8f8-9f05.jpg


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!


Ohhhh, just seeing that snout poking out of the engine bay's giving me a....oh, sorry :o

Never mind!

[Spectragod]

I might have to do that swap to my DTR.;):rolleyes:


Won't look any different than my Eaton Swap.
http://img.tapatalk.com/a69361bc-d8f8-9f05.jpg


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[BODYMAN]

Using a Cobra engine works however several things that must need to be done, Cobra oil pan not fit have to use MM oil pan and pick up tube, The frt timing cover needs to be changed to the MM cover and others mention a set of fabbed brkts from Terry Gorsch Then the relocation of above mentioned items. It is not a huge job! Or 2nd choice dont change anything and Do the worser of the 2 options and notch the frame for complete fitment of Cobra complete assy other then oil pan and pick up tube maybe not even those 2 parts. There's tons of us guys running 03-04 Cobra LB with all the mentioned items changed. In my opion the stock cobra 8.5:1 compression is not a bad option you will just have to compensate with more boost for same power level. I myself would rather have 10.1 if I was running a Eaton however, Not a huge fan of overspinning a EatonM112 as they become non efficient. Personally if I could do it all over I would still keep the lower comp I have but elect for a Turbo as a power adder. Theres a reason why you see a bunch of 03-04 Termi guys changing to Turbo's. Thats just my thoughts!! I love my Whipple it rocks but geese them Cobra guys with Turbo's are making crazy power.

[71cyclone]

THE DOXIE's have it / The Eaton Swap looks better over all, plus I already have a good runnin engine in the Car. also Thanx for the Info 'BODYMAN' . I found a 30 thousand miler 04 Cobra engine in my ares for 3600 dollar so I got to doing a little math.

[guspech750]

I might have to do that swap to my DTR.;):rolleyes:

You should give it a try. Some of us can help you install it. :rolleyes: :lol:


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[03sport007]

I just wanted to update this thread. When I was doing my research I can remember reading some previous threads and thinking what happened.


I use my car as my Daily Driver and haven been driving it for about 6 weeks Eatonized. All I can say is WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The car is awesome. I was worried that my power was down but to be honest I can’t imagine having more. For the street it’s almost impossible to take full advantage of the new power. Anything more then ½ throttle produces instant wheel spin. Which is fun!!! I find myself driving like a teenager again which is fun and embarrassing at the same time.

The Check Engine Light that came on driving home from the tuner’s hasn’t resurfaced. The car behaves just like its stock. Until you hit the gas that is. Driving mixed highway/city I’ve gotten 20mpg. I’ve also seen 14mpg(Heavy foot).

I wouldn’t hesitate to do this again. The only thing I would do differently is spend more time with my tuner. Trying to be more clear about what it was that I wanted. The tune is the single most important part of this swap.

Good Luck to who ever tries this I had a lot of fun doing it.

[dohc324ci]

I am envious of all you Eaton/Whipple charged Marauders!

[guspech750]

I just wanted to update this thread. When I was doing my research I can remember reading some previous threads and thinking what happened.


I use my car as my Daily Driver and haven been driving it for about 6 weeks Eatonized. All I can say is WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The car is awesome. I was worried that my power was down but to be honest I can’t imagine having more. For the street it’s almost impossible to take full advantage of the new power. Anything more then ½ throttle produces instant wheel spin. Which is fun!!! I find myself driving like a teenager again which is fun and embarrassing at the same time.

The Check Engine Light that came on driving home from the tuner’s hasn’t resurfaced. The car behaves just like its stock. Until you hit the gas that is. Driving mixed highway/city I’ve gotten 20mpg. I’ve also seen 14mpg(Heavy foot).

I wouldn’t hesitate to do this again. The only thing I would do differently is spend more time with my tuner. Trying to be more clear about what it was that I wanted. The tune is the single most important part of this swap.

Good Luck to who ever tries this I had a lot of fun doing it.

Awesome. Let's see some pictures.


Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[justbob]

I'm glad it all came together and you enjoy it. Keep up on the fluid changes and keep an ear out for detonation under WOT and she'll keep you smiling for many years to come.

Sent from my Ally using Tapatalk

[SC Cheesehead]

I just wanted to update this thread. When I was doing my research I can remember reading some previous threads and thinking what happened.


I use my car as my Daily Driver and haven been driving it for about 6 weeks Eatonized. All I can say is WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The car is awesome. I was worried that my power was down but to be honest I can’t imagine having more. For the street it’s almost impossible to take full advantage of the new power. Anything more then ½ throttle produces instant wheel spin. Which is fun!!! I find myself driving like a teenager again which is fun and embarrassing at the same time.

The Check Engine Light that came on driving home from the tuner’s hasn’t resurfaced. The car behaves just like its stock. Until you hit the gas that is. Driving mixed highway/city I’ve gotten 20mpg. I’ve also seen 14mpg(Heavy foot).

I wouldn’t hesitate to do this again. The only thing I would do differently is spend more time with my tuner. Trying to be more clear about what it was that I wanted. The tune is the single most important part of this swap.

Good Luck to who ever tries this I had a lot of fun doing it.



^^^^^ You're not trying hard enough, heck, I can get 12 mpg if I romp enough.... ;) ------> :D

Glad you got the swap completed, and that you're enjoying it. Good stuff!

[tdotcv]

When installing Terry's alternator bracket does the bolt the goes through the idler go in backwards? Is the idler supposed to spin because mine is tight and doesn't budge at all.

Also, when doing the egr delete, I know you block off the blower but what do we do with the egr tube. Can you just leave it there or should it be removed or do it get capped off too?

[03sport007]

When installing Terry's alternator bracket does the bolt the goes through the idler go in backwards? Is the idler supposed to spin because mine is tight and doesn't budge at all.

Also, when doing the egr delete, I know you block off the blower but what do we do with the egr tube. Can you just leave it there or should it be removed or do it get capped off too?

Maybe these pictures will help. My idler would spin? Bad bearing?
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-18.jpg

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-21.jpg

I think most people remove the tube and cap at the exhaust. I kept mine so not sure.

[tdotcv]

Thanks for the pictures. I thought I did something wrong. Tomorrow I will turn the bolt the other way.

[bugsyc]

I just wanted to update this thread. When I was doing my research I can remember reading some previous threads and thinking what happened.


I use my car as my Daily Driver and haven been driving it for about 6 weeks Eatonized. All I can say is WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The car is awesome. I was worried that my power was down but to be honest I can’t imagine having more. For the street it’s almost impossible to take full advantage of the new power. Anything more then ½ throttle produces instant wheel spin. Which is fun!!! I find myself driving like a teenager again which is fun and embarrassing at the same time.

The Check Engine Light that came on driving home from the tuner’s hasn’t resurfaced. The car behaves just like its stock. Until you hit the gas that is. Driving mixed highway/city I’ve gotten 20mpg. I’ve also seen 14mpg(Heavy foot).

I wouldn’t hesitate to do this again. The only thing I would do differently is spend more time with my tuner. Trying to be more clear about what it was that I wanted. The tune is the single most important part of this swap.

Good Luck to who ever tries this I had a lot of fun doing it.
I'm sure you posted it somewhere but,could you tell me which lower and upper pulleys you are using? Also did you install a boost meter in the car? Thanks for your help...

[03sport007]

Thanks for the pictures. I thought I did something wrong. Tomorrow I will turn the bolt the other way.

Good luck. How about some pictures of your swap?

[03sport007]

I'm sure you posted it somewhere but,could you tell me which lower and upper pulleys you are using? Also did you install a boost meter in the car? Thanks for your help...

I went with the 2+ lower and a stock upper. No I didn't install a boost guage but kinda wish I would have. My tuner said I was at about 10 pounds of boost.

[03sport007]

Bugsyc sent me a pm asking about belt size. I thought I’d post my answer here just incase others had the same question.

I used a metco 2+ lower pulley and a stock upper. The official Eaton Swap parts thread listed the belt size of 54 ½ for that combo. For whatever reason I couldn’t get that to fit. It was too small. The next size up is a 55 ¼ which was almost too big. After the belt would warm up and stretch my idler was hitting the stops. This seemed to work fine. The only hint of belt slip I had was when I’d take my foot of the gas after a WOT run. The belt would chirp.

As luck would have I was doing some cleaning at work and stumbled across a brand new idler. Part #6L2E-6c348-AA. Its bigger then the one that was on the cobra idler and allows me run the bigger belt. As you can see in the picture I’m not hitting the stops any longer.


http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-54.jpg

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-53.jpg

[tdotcv]

When drilling the lower intake with a 9/16 bit, it seems to small of a hole for the 3/8 pipe tap. Isn't a 23/32 drill bit needed instead. I need someone to tell me because each bit cost about 40 bucks at my hardware store. They aren't cheap.

BTW, I reversed the bolt and the pulley spins fine but once I tighten all the bracket bolts its pressed against the engine and it will definately not spin at all. What have I done wrong. Did anyone use a bunch of washers on the back of the bracket to make clearance.

[guspech750]

I used a 3/8 tap.

Maybe you need to shim your alt bracket out away from the motor. I thought I recall some people having to shim the bracket out. But if you do. Check your belt alignment.




Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[SC Cheesehead]

I used a 3/8 tap.

Maybe you need to shim your alt bracket out away from the motor. I thought I recall some people having to shim the bracket out. But if you do. Check your belt alignment.




Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

IIRC, ImpalaSlayer had to shim mine out about a 1/8" or so.

[tdotcv]

Ok guys, I reversed the pulley too this time. I couldn't really tell from the pics which way it was facing. Now it spins, but squeaks a whole lot from rubbing against the engine.I will deal with it after the dentist.