new best at the track

[92BlackGT]

well, took my '92 'Stang to the track yesterday. I'm trying to get into the 12's and was close, but couldn't pull it off.

60' - 1.83
1/8 - 8.399 @ 83.11 mph
1/4 - 13.096 @ 105.26 mph

my buddy put a gopro camera on his el camino when we raced... not the same race i got my best time. the video shows why i can't get my 60' time down. i need to rebuild my traclok.

http://youtu.be/x68xe5_wYHQ

[ctrlraven]

Get some drag radials and give her a good launch! My old 89 GT would spin through 2nd (12.4x), slapped some drag radials on and dropped over 3 tenths.

[92BlackGT]

i've got E/T Streets but doing a 3k launch it will spin the one tire and of course the other will do nothing. my best 60' is the 1.83.
i ordered a JLT intake and Lidio tune for the Maruader... if they come in by Friday, maybe i'll take it to the track this weekend since it's the last TnT of the year.

[Fosters]

Do you dump the clutch at 3k, or roll into it?

[92BlackGT]

i just dump it. the E/T Streets are a DOT approved drag slick and i have them at 15 psi, they can easily handle my power. maybe i'm not getting them hot enough? but the limited slip definitely needs to be rebuilt and that's not helping my situation.

[ctrlraven]

i just dump it. the E/T Streets are a DOT approved drag slick and i have them at 15 psi, they can easily handle my power. maybe i'm not getting them hot enough? but the limited slip definitely needs to be rebuilt and that's not helping my situation.
If the trak-lok unit isn't working right then you won't get the power down from the start. The one on my MM had a mind of its own, after replacing it with a brand new unit I could def hook better. I got mine from here http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/products/Mustang-Traction-Lock-Differentials

They have the Ford Racing units, 31 and 28 spline as well.

[Fosters]

i just dump it. the E/T Streets are a DOT approved drag slick and i have them at 15 psi, they can easily handle my power. maybe i'm not getting them hot enough? but the limited slip definitely needs to be rebuilt and that's not helping my situation.

I know what ET streets are, been thru a set or three myself. Instead of dumping it, try this: hold up the RPMs to about 3k. on the 2nd yellow, mash the gas with the clutch in. On the 3rd yellow, let go of the clutch. Don't ride it/slip it, but don't dump it either. Your RPM won't have time to get anywhere close to the rev limiter between the two yellows, so don't worry, but 2 things will happen that will improve your launches: one, the engine will already be at 100% load, getting maximum fuel and making its max power (as opposed to holding 3k rpm which requires very little power) when you're letting go of the clutch, and thus you won't bog it if you do hook, and two, the clutch will be slipping when you let go of it - as the engine is fighting it at full power - and will take up the initial shock off the tires. Once that initial shock is gone and the tire grips, it'll bring the nose of the car up, transfer weight, twist that fox body like a pretzel and get you going, hopefully not towards any wall :D

Those tires do have grip, and will indeed take all the power you can throw at them, but no tire in the world will go from a stop to instantly 30mph. Especially if it's only one tire doing the go part :o

Rumor has it I may have destroyed a rear end or two on MT sticky tires... my advice, if you're serious with that car, spool it. Best thing I've ever done to the mustang when I was racing it. The spool doesn't cost much, but the c clip eliminators needed are a nasty install; that was like a 700 dollar bill having a shop do it (I didn't have jack for tools back then and the mustang was my main car, I'd probably tackle it myself now).

[92BlackGT]

I know what ET streets are, been thru a set or three myself. Instead of dumping it, try this: hold up the RPMs to about 3k. on the 2nd yellow, mash the gas with the clutch in. On the 3rd yellow, let go of the clutch. Don't ride it/slip it, but don't dump it either. Your RPM won't have time to get anywhere close to the rev limiter between the two yellows, so don't worry, but 2 things will happen that will improve your launches: one, the engine will already be at 100% load, getting maximum fuel and making its max power (as opposed to holding 3k rpm which requires very little power) when you're letting go of the clutch, and thus you won't bog it if you do hook, and two, the clutch will be slipping when you let go of it - as the engine is fighting it at full power - and will take up the initial shock off the tires. Once that initial shock is gone and the tire grips, it'll bring the nose of the car up, transfer weight, twist that fox body like a pretzel and get you going, hopefully not towards any wall :D

Those tires do have grip, and will indeed take all the power you can throw at them, but no tire in the world will go from a stop to instantly 30mph. Especially if it's only one tire doing the go part :o

Rumor has it I may have destroyed a rear end or two on MT sticky tires... my advice, if you're serious with that car, spool it. Best thing I've ever done to the mustang when I was racing it. The spool doesn't cost much, but the c clip eliminators needed are a nasty install; that was like a 700 dollar bill having a shop do it (I didn't have jack for tools back then and the mustang was my main car, I'd probably tackle it myself now).

awesome, thanks for the advice. thats the best explaination for a launch i've heard, i'll give it a shot. I'm not that serious with drag racing the car, i just want to get that 12! the suspension setup is more for auto-x and good street manners with the coilovers up front (275 in-lb) and i'm sure that's not helping me with the ET. the car is 99% for cruising and i like taking freeway transition ramps in a spirited manner.

[Fosters]

awesome, thanks for the advice. thats the best explaination for a launch i've heard, i'll give it a shot. I'm not that serious with drag racing the car, i just want to get that 12! the suspension setup is more for auto-x and good street manners with the coilovers up front (275 in-lb) and i'm sure that's not helping me with the ET. the car is 99% for cruising and i like taking freeway transition ramps in a spirited manner.

Do you have the front swaybar connected? I'd disconnect it if I were you, at least for the track - easiest is to remove the end links. If you think you can deal with the slightly more minivan-ish ride afterwards (after removing the swaybar with coilovers, the body roll was still not as bad as stock in my case, you get more wobbly-ness bolting on et streets than unhooking the swaybar IMO), remove the whole swaybar for weight savings. If you don't like it, leave it like that and put the end links back in when you're done at the drag strip. The front swaybar, when connected, will keep that nose from going up (and transferring weight to the rear) like there's no tomorrow unfortunately, especially if, like me after installing the coilovers, you tightened them endlink bushings to the point they're about to pop :o They do handle good like that though :D

Leave the rear swaybar in though, that will keep the rear wheels from going up at different rates; mustangs already have a tendency to launch crooked (front driver side up, rear passenger side down). Do you have coilovers in the back too? That's my next step on the mustang (that and new shocks all the way around)... really curious how it'll take off/handle with those.

Your story sounds a lot like mine when i was hunting 12s... except I was trying to do it in arizona summer. Once winter came and the real season started, i was a happy camper :)

[92BlackGT]

no coilovers in the rear, i have the Maximum Motorsports height adjustable rear LCAs, Steeda HD uppers with new rubber bushings in the axle (will be getting a MM panhard bar and do the poor mans 3-link soon) and I have Bilstein HD dampers all around.
I always forget about disconnecting the swaybar up front.
Yea, the AZ summer is brutal... i went through 23 of them. Firebird was the first track I raced at back in '02 when I bought the 'stang.