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bigmerc281
02-28-2012, 10:58 PM
so i stumbled upon 1k.... :pimp:
i cant decide to spend it on
-u/d pulley
-410s
-tune either from d.r,mo,or lidio can decide yet


or
some shorty headers


help anyone what would benefit more

88LTDCV351
02-28-2012, 11:02 PM
I think header options are probably going to be limited due to CARB.

Mr. Man
02-28-2012, 11:25 PM
Go for the tune and 4.10's.

MrBluGruv
02-29-2012, 12:07 AM
A tune and the pulleys should EASILY be within your budget, and you will feel one whole hell of a lot quicker with a good tune setup and those pulleys. I'd personally recommend picking up the tuner from Lidio, his tunes are solid and reliable, and possibly poking around and seeing if you can find someone that'd be willing to share a Zack tune for you to load up as well. In fact, you should be able to do those two plus a JLT short ram intake as well for pretty much the ultimate minimally-invasive performance upgrade path for an MM and still have some money left over to buy lunch. :D

A full 4.10 parts and install might fit within the budget or it might not, depends on where you take it and how much you have to rebuild with the install, i.e. replacing shot axles. Keep in mind, however, after doing the swap, you will NEED a tune to adjust the computer's speed rating so it is properly calibrated and so that your transmission shifts when it should. An idea that's being tossed around more and more lately (personally pretty intrigued by it myself) is to go with a 4.30 rear gear instead of a 4.10. Granted, you could conceivably lose some serious MPGs from 3.55 to 4.30, especially if you drive highway speeds a lot, but your off-the-line pickup will be unreal compared to stock.


There are a select few that would stand by shorty headers, but I would seriously recommend against it. The MM isn't like a Mustang or a Camaro, there aren't any shorty header options designed specifically for the car that will bolt up to the factory downpipes in place of the stock exhaust manifolds. I know Stainless Works and Kooks can be pretty damn pricey, but this is one of those cases where you really should either go big or go home...

bolsen
02-29-2012, 12:29 AM
Summed that up nicely.

dohc324ci
02-29-2012, 05:24 AM
4.10 and Lidio tune. Only shorty with a CARB EO are the JBAs but at $600 plus install you might be over budget. Plus gains are minimal.

SC Cheesehead
02-29-2012, 05:25 AM
Go for the tune and 4.10's.

^^^^ What he said. ^^^^^

Bestbng for the buck, and within your budget.

Haggis
02-29-2012, 05:55 AM
so i stumbled upon 1k.... :pimp:
i cant decide to spend it on
-u/d pulley
-410s
-tune either from d.r,mo,or lidio can decide yet


or
some shorty headers


help anyone what would benefit more

Make out to cash and give it to me in Kentucky.

guspech750
02-29-2012, 06:02 AM
After driving Justbobs car a few weeks ago. I'd say buy a set of 4.30 gears. I have 4.10's and the 4.30's made the car move effortlessly. It was nice:burnout:

Oh, and a tune from Marty or Lidio.


Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

ktt
02-29-2012, 06:09 AM
Tune.. 410.. Jlt intake. Best bang for the buck. I went with mo's speed shop for my tune and they are pretty decent as well. Your in hayward so if u want 410s i can get you a frpp set discounted from my shop in daly city if you want. Just let me know

Marauderman
02-29-2012, 06:13 AM
A "PM" to Martyo will solve your problem---try it--you'll like it!!--the results that is..........forget the distance......birds fly it all the time.........

ctrlraven
02-29-2012, 06:38 AM
Tune from Mo or Lidio and 4.10 gears!

Merrill
02-29-2012, 07:49 AM
If you are stumbling in to $$$$$
come stumble around my place.

88LTDCV351
02-29-2012, 09:10 AM
The CARB number for the JBA's is D-216-29. It only specifies Ford Passenger Cars 4.6 Liter 2003 to 2006.

tbone
02-29-2012, 10:07 AM
Tune and 4.10's. No brainer.;)

Fosters
02-29-2012, 04:30 PM
Here's the deal on 4.10s vs 4.30s:

I have a mach1 also; and spent a lot of time going thru the details on this thing... the difference in RPM between the two is so minimal you simply won't notice a change in MPG.

MPG is affected by 2 things: RPM and load. You can be at 2000 RPM and eat more gas than at 2500 rpm because of load. With a manual it's easier to tell what happens than with an auto. Basically, a simple example, at the track, when launching a manual, if you rev it and hold it at 7k rpm and dump the clutch, you will bog like there's no tomorrow. That's because the engine is only getting a little gas, just enough to hold itself and the clutch at 7k rpm. If you stomp on the gas at 2-3k rpm, and at 4k you dump the clutch, your engine, at 3900rpm, is already at full load because it's trying to climb in RPM, and at 4k you will be making full power. You will likely no bog, and instead launch much harder. Power = air * fuel; at 7k you're obviously pulling in more air, but significantly less fuel under no load than at 4k at full load.

With that being said:

http://www.4lo.com/calc/gearratio.php

with 28" tire, 0.7 trans gear ratio, at 75mph, with 4.30s you'll be at 2709rpm, with 4.10s at 2583rpm, and 3.55s at 2236 rpm. Now, the difference of 126 rpm between 4.30s and 4.10s is damn near insignificant, I doubt I could tell that even on the mach's dash at a glance which had lines for every 100 rpm. The difference between 3.55 and 4.30s is more significant at 473 rpm difference, but this isn't even halfway of going in 3rd gear at that speed (that would be 3200 rpm almost).

Usually, in the mustang world with autos, it's recommended 4.10s, to help with that retarded 1st gear. That's with 26" tires, and they still don't lose much sleep over it. With our 28" tires, I'd say we can easily get away with 4.30s.

I have 4.30s in my mach, it has a 2000 cobra R spec t56 in it (2.97 1st gear, 0.62 6th), and it is geared almost perfect. if it was a peakier engine (or if it will become one down the road) like the 96-01 cobras, I'd have done 4.56s or even 4.88s and a slightly taller tire. The 4.30s are perfect IMO for our motors' power. Our transmissions have the worst ratios ever, which is a whole nother issue altogether... I will be going 4.30s in the marauder soon, I'll run some numbers and maybe 4.56 since the street won't be affected as much due to the 28" tires; and for track tires I'll have 26" tires from the mustang to bolt on, and that'll be a further gear addition; putting me at 6k rpm at 110mph in 3rd going thru the traps (if I can get the yaht to go that quick).

Cliffsnotes: Don't fear the gear.

Bradley G
02-29-2012, 05:33 PM
I have driven a couple Marauders with 4:30 gears, One had a Trilogy and full exhaust.
It felt great but I can't say I noticed a hugh difference in take off.
Now I see the math and I know that a hundred RPM difference is hard to notice from the pants meter

drobin
02-29-2012, 08:59 PM
so i stumbled upon 1k.... :pimp:
i cant decide to spend it on
-u/d pulley
-410s
-tune either from d.r,mo,or lidio can decide yet


or
some shorty headers


help anyone what would benefit more


PM me when you decide, I have Shorty Ceramic Headers complete, and UD if my pending deal falls through.

Donald (drobin)

Fosters
03-01-2012, 09:29 AM
I have driven a couple Marauders with 4:30 gears, One had a Trilogy and full exhaust.
It felt great but I can't say I noticed a hugh difference in take off.
Now I see the math and I know that a hundred RPM difference is hard to notice from the pants meter

To be honest, the biggest difference I felt in gears in the mach wasn't when I swapped the gears, it was when I drove a stock geared one afterwards.