Not a good day...

[IwantmyMMnow!]

8 weeks ago to the day, the 20-amp fuse that controls my brake lights (and a few other components) blew; I discovered this when I tried to shift my car out of park and it wouldn't let me. I called Russ (03mmmonroe) and he figured out for me that the fuse was the culprit. I bought a couple of 20-amp fuses the next day and replaced the bad with the good.

Today, I went to the store and when I tried to leave, same issue; can't shift out of park. "Weird to have the fuse blow again so soon", I thought to myself, "No prob, though, I'll just swap out the fuse again". Well, as soon as the fuse made contact with the panel, POP!

Called Russ again; I've got a short somewhere in that circuit. Probably cost around $300 to have it diagnosed/fixed. Unfortunately, whatever the total cost comes out to be, that $$$ is coming out of the pot I had set aside to get 410s installed....ARRGGHHH! I also had several other 'projects' I was finally starting to get somewhere on and now those have come to a screeching halt.

Just frustrated because I've been patiently waiting for a year now to have things done to my MM and now I have to wait some more... :mad2:

[EMAS]

So it pops the second you put the fuse in w/o touching the brake? If so the problem lies between the fuse box and the brake light sw. I've seen a couple of Fords melt the connector for the brake light switch and that could be the source of the problem.

If it doesn't pop until you put your foot on the brake then it's between the sw and the tail lights. I had that problem on mine, I traced it down to a wire behind the tail light that had been pinched by the mounting stud. Not sure if it was done at the factory or when a bulb was replaced sometime after. What ever the reason it eventually wore through the insulation and was causing a short.

[IwantmyMMnow!]

So it pops the second you put the fuse in w/o touching the brake? If so the problem lies between the fuse box and the brake light sw. I've seen a couple of Fords melt the connector for the brake light switch and that could be the source of the problem.



Yes, as soon as either prong on the fuse makes contact when trying to plug it in, it popped....this happened twice, then I called Russ.

[IwantmyMMnow!]

New development....fog lights not working now....

[PonyUP]

New development....fog lights not working now....

That sucks Kyle, hope you get it diagnosed.


Pony seal of Approval

[1 Bad Merc]

Have patience Kyle -once you get this figured out you will be good to go. I had my Marauder down for almost two years so I feel your pain brother. Hang in there.

[IwantmyMMnow!]

I appreciate the support guys. Just sucks because I'll be driving around w/o brake lights until Monday, which wouldn't be that big of a deal except I've got my kids this weekend. We haven't gone anywhere today, and they're getting B O R E D! I don't have cable and I dropped the remote to the DVD player a couple days ago and it's busted, so no movies to watch either.

Trying to remember what I did as a kid before computers, DVDs, cable TV....:lol:

[PonyUP]

I appreciate the support guys. Just sucks because I'll be driving around w/o brake lights until Monday, which wouldn't be that big of a deal except I've got my kids this weekend. We haven't gone anywhere today, and they're getting B O R E D! I don't have cable and I dropped the remote to the DVD player a couple days ago and it's busted, so no movies to watch either.

Trying to remember what I did as a kid before computers, DVDs, cable TV....:lol:

If you have Internet, try Hulu, you can stream tv shows for free


Pony seal of Approval

[fastblackmerc]

Too bad you aren't closer.

Look under the dash at the brake pedal, follow the pedal up and look at the brake switch. Let me know what you see.

[T Prok]

NOTE:
if this happens to other members while out and about...

Start the car in Neutral, then move it to drive (it will by-pass the lock "feature").


good luck in finding the short, trouble shooting electrical can be a PITA.

[IwantmyMMnow!]

NOTE:
if this happens to other members while out and about...

Start the car in Neutral, then move it to drive (it will by-pass the lock "feature").


good luck in finding the short, trouble shooting electrical can be a PITA.

Thanks, T Prok; that's how I've been getting around since yesterday. Only have been out twice since my lights went out midday yesterday, and will be heading to the mechanic first thing in the morning to have it looked at. I'll have to drive about 10 miles (6 or 7 on the interstate) to get to the garage...will be white-knuckling it and have one eyeball on the road in front of me and the other on my rear-view mirror. Had to do similar earlier today to bring my kids back to the ex...finally pried my fingers off the steering wheel about an hour ago...:lol:
I've been trying to determine which would be better: drive with my hazards flashing or make signs that say "Brake lights INOP; follow with caution" and stick 'em in my rear window....I didn't do either this afternoon.

Thanks for trying to help me out, Jim (FBM) and thanks for your help too, Russ (03mmmonroe). Hopefully name-dropping will help keep the final $$$ low.

[IwantmyMMnow!]

The culprit of the 'short' was a chaffed wire in a location 'that was not easy to get to' under the dash....only $98. However, an oil leak was discovered...add another $235...AND my front tires are wearing out on the insides...both are bald on the inner portion, the right one worse than the left. Gotta wait until next week to get new fronts...just don't have the $$$ after paying today's bill.

I gave my tires a looksy before heading up to Looseville and could tell the inner edges were beginning to show some wear, but nowhere near as bad as they look now. Can tires wear down that quick in <1000 miles? I was thinking I could get another 2000-3000 miles before it would be an issue, but then again, I'm not a tire expert.

So, it looks like all projects are on hold again...:alone:

At least the 'short' turned out to be inexpensive.

Should I consider 'used' tires? I'll be replacing the rears before the year is out (I'm assuming...they've got 30K on them) and would like 4 new tires at the same time, not two now and two later.

[SC Cheesehead]

Get new tires and have the front end aligned to Carfixer's spcs.

[IwantmyMMnow!]

Get new tires and have the front end aligned to Carfixer's spcs.

:up: Got 'em printed out and in my glovebox...been there since last summer.

[knine]

Get new tires and have the front end aligned to Carfixer's spcs.
:2thumbs: A definite fix. I've had the carfixer specs on the front of my ride since the new fronts were put on over 20K ago and NO signs of wear. I've even had to replace the rears, but not the fronts. Apparently cold storage (tires off in the winter) makes the rears go bald because I always discover the rears bald about a month after I put them back on :burnout:

I had my brake light fuse go last year, slow blow. I added two more bulbs each side in the rear after I did the S55 and didn't up the fuse 5 amps.

[IwantmyMMnow!]

Thanks again everyone for your help.

This thread can be closed if needed...

[Haggis]

The culprit was a chaffed a$$ in a location 'that was not easy to get to' under my underroos....$98. However, an drip was discovered coming from my p****...add another $235...AND my fingers are wearing out on the insides...both are bald on the inner portion, the right one worse than the left. Gotta wait until next week to get the calluses removed...just don't have the $$$ for any more porn after paying today's bill.

***Fixed***

[IwantmyMMnow!]

***Fixed***

All that effort just for me? Gotta give it a :up:

[Haggis]

All that effort just for me? Gotta give it a :up:

Your welcome.