Proper way to service your transmission

[RF Overlord]

Many people are either confused or have been given misinformation about the proper way to change transmission fluid and filters.

Flushing will kill your transmission: Fact or Fiction?

Joe Sixpack drives his car for years without ever giving a thought to the transmission until one day it starts making a funny noise or shifting strangely. Since it's about due for an oil change, he mentions the problem to the "technician" at Jiffy Lube, who sells him a "transmission flush". Three weeks later, the transmission croaks. Since the flush was the last (and only) thing done to it, OF COURSE that's what killed it, right? It couldn't possibly have been the years of neglect and abuse. The reality is that the transmission would have died when it did whether the flush had been done or not. If you wait until the transmission is acting up and the fluid is all burnt and nasty, you're living on borrowed time. Go ahead and change it...you may add some life to your transmission, or it may die anyway, but if it does die, it won't be BECAUSE you changed the fluid.

Flush or Complete Fluid Exchange?

Second, there is a lot of confusion surrounding the word "flush". Many people mistakenly believe that it means to somehow force fresh fluid backwards through the transmission, disturbing all kinds of sludge and what-not stuck in the filter and in the various passages and lodging it in important places of the innards. If that was even possible (which it isn't), there's no valid reason to do it this way.

Every fluid exchange (and that is the preferred term) machine I've ever seen works passively, in more or less the same fashion: by using the transmission's own pump to push old fluid out into one end of a double-ended cylinder divided by a sealed piston. The other end of this cylinder contains fresh fluid. As the old fluid enters the cylinder, it pushes against the piston, which causes the fresh fluid to be pushed into the transmission in the same direction, and at the same pressure, as fluid flows when the transmission is operating normally. Here's an example (http://www.cloreautomotive.com/sku.php?id=363). For those who may not be aware, this is the exact procedure recommended by Ford in the factory service manual.

For times when a complete fluid exchange is not called for, such as during routine maintenance, a simple drain & fill will exchange approx 4 quarts of fluid, which is about 25% of the total capacity. This is sufficient to keep the fluid fresh when performed at intervals appropriate for the vehicle's operating conditions. Installing a $10 drain plug in the back side of the little "well" in the bottom of the pan makes the job as easy as draining the motor oil.

The Filter: Less important than you think

Now to filters. An automatic transmission is a sealed system, with no air intake to draw in contaminants and no combustion to create by-products, so the only thing the filter needs to catch is internal wear material. Most wear in an automatic transmission occurs during the first 10,000 miles of use from new, and it is this initial wear material that the filter is designed to catch. Changing the filter once, preferably at the 10-15,000-mile point (more or less) is a good idea, but from that point it is not necessary to change it again if the fluid is kept fresh. According to the factory service manual, it is not required to routinely change the filter unless the transmission is being repaired for a failure or is being serviced for fluid contamination.

[Comin' in Hot]

Nice write up. Installing a drain plug is essential. I drain and refill every other oil change.

[Mike M]

many people are either confused or have been given misinformation about the proper way to change transmission fluid and filters.

flushing will kill your transmission: Fact or fiction?

joe sixpack drives his car for years without ever giving a thought to the transmission until one day it starts making a funny noise or shifting strangely. Since it's about due for an oil change, he mentions the problem to the "technician" at jiffy lube, who sells him a "transmission flush". Three weeks later, the transmission croaks. Since the flush was the last (and only) thing done to it, of course that's what killed it, right? It couldn't possibly have been the years of neglect and abuse. The reality is that the transmission would have died when it did whether the flush had been done or not. If you wait until the transmission is acting up and the fluid is all burnt and nasty, you're living on borrowed time. Go ahead and change it...you may add some life to your transmission, or it may die anyway, but if it does die, it won't be because you changed the fluid.

flush or complete fluid exchange?

second, there is a lot of confusion surrounding the word "flush". Many people mistakenly believe that it means to somehow force fresh fluid backwards through the transmission, disturbing all kinds of sludge and what-not stuck in the filter and in the various passages and lodging it in important places of the innards. If that was even possible (which it isn't), there's no valid reason to do it this way.

Every fluid exchange (and that is the preferred term) machine i've ever seen works passively, in more or less the same fashion: By using the transmission's own pump to push old fluid out into one end of a double-ended cylinder divided by a sealed piston. The other end of this cylinder contains fresh fluid. As the old fluid enters the cylinder, it pushes against the piston, which causes the fresh fluid to be pushed into the transmission in the same direction, and at the same pressure, as fluid flows when the transmission is operating normally. Here's an example (http://www.cloreautomotive.com/sku.php?id=363). For those who may not be aware, this is the exact procedure recommended by ford in the factory service manual.

For times when a complete fluid exchange is not called for, such as during routine maintenance, a simple drain & fill will exchange approx 4 quarts of fluid, which is about 25% of the total capacity. This is sufficient to keep the fluid fresh when performed at intervals appropriate for the vehicle's operating conditions. Installing a $10 drain plug in the back side of the little "well" in the bottom of the pan makes the job as easy as draining the motor oil.

the filter: Less important than you think

now to filters. An automatic transmission is a sealed system, with no air intake to draw in contaminants and no combustion to create by-products, so the only thing the filter needs to catch is internal wear material. Most wear in an automatic transmission occurs during the first 10,000 miles of use from new, and it is this initial wear material that the filter is designed to catch. Changing the filter once, preferably at the 10-15,000-mile point (more or less) is a good idea, but from that point it is not necessary to change it again if the fluid is kept fresh. According to the factory service manual, it is not required to routinely change the filter unless the transmission is being repaired for a failure or is being serviced for fluid contamination.


Exactly!!!

[Dobs]

Good information :up:

[JOEMERC]

Yeah the factory should have installed the drain plug,but I did do the pan drop around 20,000 miles and did the filter change. Should of put in the drain plug then. Next time I will.

[Guittard22]

I may be wrong on this but not to long Ago did or did not Motown marauder install one on his car or was that somthing diffrant I can't find his post with the pic he had .

[MOTOWN]

I may be wrong on this but not to long Ago did or did not Motown marauder install one on his car or was that somthing diffrant I can't find his post with the pic he had .

You mean this lil old pan:confused:
http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af324/sims36/mailss.jpg

[Guittard22]

That looks super sweet how much that run you ? I am not sure if this was the pic I was thinking about or not. I was thinking you got a new silver case with pin for your back axle . Could that be what I was talking about !?!? There's a lot of information on this site to try to remember it all :)

[MOTOWN]

Oh you mean this one?
http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af324/sims36/20120416_175036.jpg

[NXSBOB]

https://www.google.com/#hl=en&tbo=1&tbs=qdr:y&sclient=psy-ab&q=%22MAG-HYTEC%22+4R70W&oq=%22MAG-HYTEC%22+4R70W&aq=f&aqi=g-v2&aql=&gs_nf=1&gs_l=hp.12..0i15l2.32515.42237 .2.44766.5.5.0.0.0.2.230.1028. 0j1j4.5.0.2a72D3e3Ce4&tbo=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf .osb&fp=b10f389bad4889f0&biw=1253&bih=658

[Guittard22]

Yes I do looks super sweet :beer:

[Rockettman]

Doesn't the pan from a F-350 fit? (I thought I'd read that sometime).

Where can one get one of these plugs? Are they vehicle specific? (I'm in Toronto, Canada; and don't know if I just walk into Napa or something like that).

[fastblackmerc]

Doesn't the pan from a F-350 fit? (I thought I'd read that sometime).

Where can one get one of these plugs? Are they vehicle specific? (I'm in Toronto, Canada; and don't know if I just walk into Napa or something like that).

Here you go.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Major-Brand-Transmission-Pan-Drain-Plug-Kit-/180865400538?pt=Motors_Car_Tru ck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1c6afeda&vxp=mtr

[Rockettman]

^^^ That guy only ships within the US.
Thanks though. I guess they can't be that hard to find.

[fastblackmerc]

^^^ That guy only ships within the US.
Thanks though. I guess they can't be that hard to find.

Search ebay.com for "transmission pan plug"

[RF Overlord]

I get my plugs from NAPA because they stock them, but I would think most any FLAPS should be able to order them.

Or you can get Ford p/n F8UZ-7A194-AA...otherwise known as the "U-Haul" pan...it's identical to the factory pan, but with a drain plug already installed.

[CameronVic]

Who is Joe Sixpack?

[IwantmyMMnow!]

Who is Joe Sixpack?

Me......:lol:

[kilm70]

Is there a synthetic fluid available for our trans

[jwibbity]

Is there a synthetic fluid available for our trans

even though this thread is over a year old, there are many companies that offer synthetic transmission fluid, Amsoil being the one i use and prefer

[JOEMERC]

We have Mercon V a synthetic blend trans.fluid .

[Mike M]

I use Mobil 1

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Other_Products/Mobil_1_Synthetic_ATF.aspx#

[MOTOWN]

even though this thread is over a year old, there are many companies that offer synthetic transmission fluid, Amsoil being the one i use and prefer

Agreed! this is one of the best you can buy.

[ncmm]

So speaking of transmissions I noticed a small leak on this plastic piece with a cap screw. It was loose so I tightend it. What's it's purpose? Drain hole?

please chime in, thank you

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m88/nocarey/20140108_185903_zps8d203e10.jp g

[jparrie]

Looks like an opening for a speedometer drive gear / cable.

[gdmjoe]

ncmm - So speaking of transmissions I noticed a small leak on this plastic piece with a cap screw. It was loose so I tightend it. What's it's purpose? Drain hole?
That's the port for the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) that in 2003 was eliminated from transmission tail housing (speedometer now gets speed data from PCM).

Rather than cast a different tail housing, a plug was used to block-off the port.
http://www.gdmjoe.com/gothvic/transmission/ehVSSplug.jpg

[ncmm]

thanks! good to know it's not important

[burt ragio]

Bob who has the T Tech Pro Plus TT 500 here on Cape ?

[RF Overlord]

The only one I know of is the Mashpee Jiffy Lube, but there must be others...

[jaywish]

Hi,

Time for a fluid change at 26k miles.

Does anyone know if the "U-Hall Pan" is standard capacity or extra capacity?
If it is extra capacity, does it present an extra possibility for damage by a rock or the like?


Edit, After re-reading RF's post he says "...identical..." to factory pan so no problem.

Thanks,
Jay

[jaywish]

Got the "u-haul" pan from Tasca. New fluid and filter going in on Tuesday. Letting a local dealer, Scarsdale Ford do the fluid flush and swap in the new pan. Then I can add an easy partial fluid change to the yearly maintenance list.

[whitey]

Jay, you could have spent $3 and had a plug put in your original pan. 10mm bolts for the tranny pan, easy peezy, do it yourself! For the amount of money you are going to pay someone to install the pan and do a tranny fluid flush, you could buy an oil drain pan, 10mm socket, ratchet, 5 qts merconV, and filter and enjoy it with a 6 pack of beer, and a sense of accomplishment :beer:

[Guittard22]

Jay, you could have spent $3 and had a plug put in your original pan. 10mm bolts for the tranny pan, easy peezy, do it yourself! For the amount of money you are going to pay someone to install the pan and do a tranny fluid flush, you could buy an oil drain pan, 10mm socket, ratchet, 5 qts merconV, and filter and enjoy it with a 6 pack of beer, and a sense of accomplishment :beer:



Have a photos of this drain plug ?

[jsignorelli]

I have 54,000 miles on my 2004 Silver Birch. I have replaced the fluid and filter three times already. 15K and out has always been my motto.

The first time I had the trans fluid and filter done, I also replaced the pan with a drain plug, deep dish, extra capacity unit. I like fluids clean and cool.

Even though I use Mobile 1 in the Marauder, I change the oil every 3,000 miles. Again, clean and cool. Yes..... I have an oil cooler.

[whitey]

Have a photos of this drain plug ?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00029WR78?pc_redir=1410691388&robot_redir=1

Its exactly like this, without the b&m name. They a literally like $3 at a flaps. Just walk in, and say "hi, my name is sue, and id like to know if you have a universal drain plug. Im trying to add a plug to my transmission pan" :)

[jaywish]

Yup could have bought a plug but thought this welded in unit would be nice. Also I can't easily do a complete flush of all the fluid. That is why I am having that work done. It sure would have been nice if ford had continued to include a drain plug on the torque converter.

I know I could have gone back and changed the pan and filter myself after having the initial flush done but for the extra $70 (less the cost of a filter & 5 quarts of fluid it would have cost me to do it myself) it saves me some time which right at the moment I am short of.

Either way I am glad to get nice fresh fluid in there and a plug for regular 5 quart freshening.

I have been hemming and hawing over adding a tranny cooler. I know they are great, particularly with fords. I added the factory coolers to my old 93, which was the predecessor to my marauder, and the 89 wagon. I wonder if I can add a cooler without cutting the existing lines as mods are a slippery slope which I have mostly avoided on the Marauder so far.

[fastblackmerc]

Yup could have bought a plug but thought this welded in unit would be nice. Also I can't easily do a complete flush of all the fluid. That is why I am having that work done. It sure would have been nice if ford had continued to include a drain plug on the torque converter.

I know I could have gone back and changed the pan and filter myself after having the initial flush done but for the extra $70 (less the cost of a filter & 5 quarts of fluid it would have cost me to do it myself) it saves me some time which right at the moment I am short of.

Either way I am glad to get nice fresh fluid in there and a plug for regular 5 quart freshening.

I have been hemming and hawing over adding a tranny cooler. I know they are great, particularly with fords. I added the factory coolers to my old 93, which was the predecessor to my marauder, and the 89 wagon. I wonder if I can add a cooler without cutting the existing lines as mods are a slippery slope which I have mostly avoided on the Marauder so far.

Yes you can add an aftermarket cooler without cutting any existing lines. Add the cooler in series with the OEM cooler. Plumb it so the fluid comes out of the OEM cooler, into the aftermarket cooler then back to the tranny.

[RacerX]

Transmission Power Flow Charts for 4R and others: http://www.toolcrib.ca/assets/pdfs/power_flow.pdf

Sonnax parts: http://www.sonnax.com/units/278-4R70W

[crouse]

Transmission Power Flow Charts for 4R and others: http://www.toolcrib.ca/assets/pdfs/power_flow.pdf

Sonnax parts: http://www.sonnax.com/units/278-4R70W

It's interesting that the Overdrive Band is applied when shifting manually into 2nd gear.

I've owned my Marauder since June of 2003 and have almost 100,000 miles on it and have been shifting manually from time to time when running Auto Cross events, burnouts and when standing on it from a stop light. So it must not hurt the transmission to shift it manually.

[HBTMD]

I have a 2003 MM with 41,000 miles and an SCT Tuner I purchased from DR. I recently started having problems with the transmission going into neutral of failing to shift gears and then the car stalls out. :violin:

Transmission Flush was done at Jiffy Lube 2 years ago.

If I restart the engine, it works fine for a few days then does the same thing again.

I removed the DR tune today and it did the same thing again an hour later.

Any idea what the problem is?

[djcrook73]

have you tried shutting off the overdrive when it happens? my car was going into neutral instead of fourth and when I drove with the od off it was fine. was a fairly inexpensive fix but your car may not have the same problem seeing that yours is shutting down and mine was not. david.

[Muddflapp]

My 2004 MM now has 40000 mi. It had a flush at the dealer 2 years ago at 32000. It's also flinging itself in to neutral in the last week. I did notice that the overdrive lockout makes a difference, but I haven't really qualified it. I'm trying not to drive it until I take it to the dealer this Friday.

In the normal once or twice per week commute 23 miles to and from work (45 minutes), in Drive with the lockout disabled (normal), 2nd gear when the engine rpm reaches 2300-2500, it wants to shift into 3rd. Depending on traffic slowing down in front of me (happens between 35-45mph), the trans tries to go to 3rd, but comes back down to 2nd because of the traffic or an upcoming hill right at that shift point. After that, if it doesn't get into 3rd or 4th by 3000 or 4000 rpm, it goes to neutral (can't say for sure. I'm not fond of driving it this way to qualify it). I have noticed that if I enable the Overdrive Lockout at 2000rpm, it has shifted to 3rd when it gets higher in the rpm (not sure where). I have noticed that when I release the lockout it will either go to 4th or neutral (if the rpm is high enough). When there's no traffic and I've been driving for a while (with lockout disabled) and there's no upcoming hill at my 2-3 shift point, it will go from 2nd to 3rd and to 4th. I think this is because I'm moving on with authority and not just resting my foot on the accelerator pedal or covering the brake waiting to see what the traffic will eventually do.

The car seems to not like the commuting repetitive sequences of starting from a stop, 1st, 2nd, now everybody off the gas for a long distance, now everybody gently on the gas to about 40mph. At that time I'm free wheeling, adding gas because I'm not accellerating, figiting with the lockout, finally getting it to jump into 4th. Now the guys next to me want to race because I've been gunning my engine.

The commute has been like this since 2007 when they tore up the highway and force us off onto the side street to stop at that light. Then we get back on the highway, go for a while, then exit again because there's another light to drive under. 19 traffic lights in all. If there's any cross traffic waiting to cross, I will have to stop when I get to the light.

The transmission failing to engage through the full range of gears has happened on my last 3 commutes.

I thought the fluid might be low. Checked it several times. fluid covering the tip of the dipstick and along one side of the stick. I thought that since the stick is bending down the contortion of the tube, it's scraping off some fluid that hasn't drained back into the transmission. So I added 1.5 quarts of Mercon V at .5 quarts at a time. I checked it each time. Last check showed about a quart over full, maybe 1.5 quarts. The service manual says to lay the stick down on a white or dry (don't remember which word) and see where the fluid comes up to.

Anyway, I'm driving something else until I get it into the shop on Friday.
The engine has never died through all of this and I don't want it to start now if that's what I have to look forward to. Fluid is clean and does not smell burnt. Smells like almost fresh fluid.

[fastblackmerc]

My 2004 MM now has 40000 mi. It had a flush at the dealer 2 years ago at 32000. It's also flinging itself in to neutral in the last week. I did notice that the overdrive lockout makes a difference, but I haven't really qualified it. I'm trying not to drive it until I take it to the dealer this Friday.

In the normal once or twice per week commute 23 miles to and from work (45 minutes), in Drive with the lockout disabled (normal), 2nd gear when the engine rpm reaches 2300-2500, it wants to shift into 3rd. Depending on traffic slowing down in front of me (happens between 35-45mph), the trans tries to go to 3rd, but comes back down to 2nd because of the traffic or an upcoming hill right at that shift point. After that, if it doesn't get into 3rd or 4th by 3000 or 4000 rpm, it goes to neutral (can't say for sure. I'm not fond of driving it this way to qualify it). I have noticed that if I enable the Overdrive Lockout at 2000rpm, it has shifted to 3rd when it gets higher in the rpm (not sure where). I have noticed that when I release the lockout it will either go to 4th or neutral (if the rpm is high enough). When there's no traffic and I've been driving for a while (with lockout disabled) and there's no upcoming hill at my 2-3 shift point, it will go from 2nd to 3rd and to 4th. I think this is because I'm moving on with authority and not just resting my foot on the accelerator pedal or covering the brake waiting to see what the traffic will eventually do.

The car seems to not like the commuting repetitive sequences of starting from a stop, 1st, 2nd, now everybody off the gas for a long distance, now everybody gently on the gas to about 40mph. At that time I'm free wheeling, adding gas because I'm not accellerating, figiting with the lockout, finally getting it to jump into 4th. Now the guys next to me want to race because I've been gunning my engine.

The commute has been like this since 2007 when they tore up the highway and force us off onto the side street to stop at that light. Then we get back on the highway, go for a while, then exit again because there's another light to drive under. 19 traffic lights in all. If there's any cross traffic waiting to cross, I will have to stop when I get to the light.

The transmission failing to engage through the full range of gears has happened on my last 3 commutes.

I thought the fluid might be low. Checked it several times. fluid covering the tip of the dipstick and along one side of the stick. I thought that since the stick is bending down the contortion of the tube, it's scraping off some fluid that hasn't drained back into the transmission. So I added 1.5 quarts of Mercon V at .5 quarts at a time. I checked it each time. Last check showed about a quart over full, maybe 1.5 quarts. The service manual says to lay the stick down on a white or dry (don't remember which word) and see where the fluid comes up to.

Anyway, I'm driving something else until I get it into the shop on Friday.
The engine has never died through all of this and I don't want it to start now if that's what I have to look forward to. Fluid is clean and does not smell burnt. Smells like almost fresh fluid.

Do you have a tune?

The linkage may need adjustment.

Check page 192 - 2004 MM - for the proper way to check trans fluid level, page 204 - 2003 MM.

[marauder_2]

I just put 03 Cobra Mustang motor in my 03 Mercury Marauder and I was hoping that someone knows someone to write a tune for the motor and the transmission. Can anyone help.

[martyo]

I just put 03 Cobra Mustang motor in my 03 Mercury Marauder and I was hoping that someone knows someone to write a tune for the motor and the transmission. Can anyone help.

We could handle that.

Did you do a six speed swap as well?

[crownvic97]

For anyone looking for a cheaper pan than the U-Haul that has a drain plug, the Dorman 265813 is a nice piece that can be had for $25 shipped if you have Amazon Prime.

http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv45/Markd20000/2008%20Grand%20Marquis/20160425_113155_zpszszinyxy.jp g (http://s668.photobucket.com/user/Markd20000/media/2008%20Grand%20Marquis/20160425_113155_zpszszinyxy.jp g.html)

There it is on my 08 GMQ. I had the U-Haul pan on my GMQ before, but I swapped it on to the Marauder and used the Dorman pan on the GMQ. it's similar to the U-Haul, only major difference I'd the plug faces the front of the car as opposed to the rear.

[376shovel]

For anyone looking for a cheaper pan than the U-Haul that has a drain plug, the Dorman 265813 is a nice piece that can be had for $25 shipped if you have Amazon Prime.


There it is on my 08 GMQ. I had the U-Haul pan on my GMQ before, but I swapped it on to the Marauder and used the Dorman pan on the GMQ. it's similar to the U-Haul, only major difference I'd the plug faces the front of the car as opposed to the rear.


I second this, I bought this cheap pan for the plug. Works fine.

[BAD MERC]

I like this write-up. I am living proof that a transmission fluid/filter change AND fluid exchange WORK! My 2006 Taurus started dropping out of overdrive with gentle throttle application and a washboard sensation was felt in the driveline. I immediately took it to a transmission guy I trust (Rod, Lee County Transmissions). He brought along a real-time scope and off we went for a test drive. He showed me the lockup of the torque converter and how it was sporadic. He stated I'd probably need a TC and stated just rebuild the whole AX4N while it was out. He asked if I'd ever done a fluid change because MercV uses a friction modifier that wears out. I had 95K on the odometer.

Reluctantly I bought a case of good MercV, a filter/gasket and got to work. I knew this could be wasted effort but I took the chance. I dropped the pan and it was relatively clean inside, replaced the gasket and torqued everything to spec. Using a 5 gallon bucket graduated in quarts I disconnected the cooler lines and pointed them into the bucket. I started the car and at idle watched the bucket begin to fill. When the fluid got to a few quarts I began pouring the new fluid in to keep up with the fill ratio of the bucket. Four quarts for every gallon of fluid in the bucket. The difference in color was evident when the new fluid began to come out. Reconnected the cooler lines to an auxiliary cooler after the OE cooler and topped the fluid off.

This was 3 years ago and 35K miles. It never acted up again.

[03Merc]

Yes you can add an aftermarket cooler without cutting any existing lines. Add the cooler in series with the OEM cooler. Plumb it so the fluid comes out of the OEM cooler, into the aftermarket cooler then back to the tranny.



I did it the other way around, to make sure the aftermarket one ALWAYS works.

[Rockettman]

So I've bought the Dorman pan; and reluctantly are considering doing the "original pan" drop in my garage (at home. I add reluctantly because it's been YEARS since I dropped a trans-pan, and remember the utter mess it can make down your arm!).

Anyway...if I do the drop at home,
how many bottles (quarts for you US guys / Litres for us Canadians), should I buy and drop in? (and that includes the filter change this time too).
Is there a difference in amount that goes in from this point, without the filter change?

I am DEFINATELY going to a full-synthetic fluid - Mercron V compatible of course.

[Zack]

So I've bought the Dorman pan; and reluctantly are considering doing the "original pan" drop in my garage (at home. I add reluctantly because it's been YEARS since I dropped a trans-pan, and remember the utter mess it can make down your arm!).

Anyway...if I do the drop at home,
how many bottles (quarts for you US guys / Litres for us Canadians), should I buy and drop in? (and that includes the filter change this time too).
Is there a difference in amount that goes in from this point, without the filter change?

I am DEFINATELY going to a full-synthetic fluid - Mercron V compatible of course.

Regular Mercon V is fine. You will need about 5-6 with a pan drop and filter change.
If you drain the pan every other oil change, your transmission will last forever.

[Rockettman]

Thank you Zack.

Is there a difference in amount, the next time (only draining, without the filter)?

[Rockettman]

Is the oil pan gasket, re-useable on these transmissions?
(Is there a need to purchase a new one)?

[crownvic97]

Is the oil pan gasket, re-useable on these transmissions?
(Is there a need to purchase a new one)?
The trans pan gasket is reusable, no need to replace.

Also, both my GMQ and Marauder only took 5qts to be dead on full after pan and filter replacement.

[RF Overlord]

The trans pan gasket is reusable, no need to replace. This.


Also, both my GMQ and Marauder only took 5qts to be dead on full after pan and filter replacement.and this.

Doing a pan drain only (no filter) needs 4 quarts.

[Rockettman]

Regarding the Dorman pans:

Ok..so maybe a strange question...
I didn't even realize that the plug was at the front of the pan, as opposed to the back.

If I raise my car up on ramps at home each time I do my change, is there a significant difference in fluid that will drop out, compared to "level" on a hoist?
(Is the retro-fit of a plug in the original pan, a better idea?)

[fastblackmerc]

Regarding the Dorman pans:

Ok..so maybe a strange question...
I didn't even realize that the plug was at the front of the pan, as opposed to the back.

If I raise my car up on ramps at home each time I do my change, is there a significant difference in fluid that will drop out, compared to "level" on a hoist?
(Is the retro-fit of a plug in the original pan, a better idea?)

I would assume that there would be less oil in the drain pan since the oil is moving away from the plug. Another reason why I don't use Dorman parts except for their "HELP" parts, clips, specialized nuts, bolt & washers and soft parts like grommets, etc.

Either retrofit a plug in the "correct spot", buy a U-Haul pan or aftermarket deep pan.

Found this quote: "Dorman used to be a great name in "small parts," fasteners, freeze plugs, brass and copper fittings, draincocks, threaded plugs, cotter pins, the like. Parts stores would have a whole wall with chest-high drawer racks in orange and blue labeled "Dorman" on the front. Always top-quality parts.

Today, the name is the only thing left. The real Dorman company no longer exists, it was sold years ago. They are still a source for hard-to-find parts, but quality is hit and miss at best. Mostly chinese-made stuff. Buyer beware, don't trust the name anymore."

[crownvic97]

I haven't felt the drain plug placement is an issue at all.

[Rockettman]

So I have had the swap of my trans-pan to the Dorman one. (Decided to not do it myself afterall).

As I checked the old one (the original) they put in my trunk, I noticed the magnet was still on the old pan!

Did I miss seeing a magnet in the Dorman pan right in the box?
Or did they just forget, and now probably don't have a magnet in there?

(Just wondering if I need to start something with this shop now). :mad2:

[Ruger407]

Greetings can anyone advise the WIX # for a transmission Filter for my 2004 MM. Thanks Dale

[RF Overlord]

http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Applications.aspx?Section=1

[Ruger407]

I wish to change my MM fluid and trans "filter" any help on a Wix # for the filter, 5qts of type V Merc fluid is this correct thanks Dale

[RF Overlord]

I just gave you the link to the WIX filters site above...

[88grandmarq]

from my experience... use ONLY motorcraft transmission filters. Rock auto has the best price on the FT105. Order the Dorman pan with the drain plug while you're at it.

[Svashtar]

I could have sworn I had had my tranny serviced since, but the last I can find is from 52K miles ago! [emoji35]

And the guy did a bunch of other work on my car at the time, so I didn't notice at first how much he charged me, but he nailed me on the labor cost.

I change my oil with full synthetic every 5-6K, but was thinking every 25-30K for the trans and obviously missed a service.

After this long I'd feel better with a new filter and I'll try it myself for once.

So FT105 filter, BUT since I have an Art Carr deep pan, I'll need what, 8 quarts of MerconV instead of 5?

Q: is there supposed to be a magnet in the filter pan? I don't have the OEM pan, that and the stock diff cover got replaced and I didn't keep them for some reason, so if so need to check the new pan for one.

Thanks.

Norm




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[RF Overlord]

There is a magnet in the stock stamped-steel pan, but obviously won't work in an aluminium pan, unless you glue it.

As for the filter, if your guy already replaced it once, don't even bother. The purpose of the factory filter is to catch break-in wear materials, which are pretty much done by 10-15k from new. Replacing the filter is fine, but unnecessary after that first time.

[Svashtar]

There is a magnet in the stock stamped-steel pan, but obviously won't work in an aluminium pan, unless you glue it.

As for the filter, if your guy already replaced it once, don't even bother. The purpose of the factory filter is to catch break-in wear materials, which are pretty much done by 10-15k from new. Replacing the filter is fine, but unnecessary after that first time.


Thanks RF; no excuses, I was busy working, and though I did some of the early work myself I delegated way too much work I could have done to a shop, and just paid. I got a fair charge for the gears and driveshaft and TC, but looking at some other 10-11 year old invoices I cringe at how much I forked out for some basic services like this. Lesson learned.

I'm going to assume that the Carr deep pan will probably take an extra couple quarts, and I'm also betting the drain plug already has a magnet on it, although I never looked. If not I have some rare earth magnets scavenged from hard drives and will add one of those.

I'll leave the gasket and filter alone then, thanks. Considering the $ I dumped into this trans, waiting 50k was really stupid; from now on I'll drain and refill every third oil change.

I'm taking the pan off this time only to check for a magnet if one isn't on the plug, otherwise it shouldn't have to come off again.

Thanks again.


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[daniel.drives]

Hey guys, speaking of transmission service:

I bought my car at 177k, currently at 209k, as near as I can tell, original transmission. I have the deep pan with drain plug, but since I've been tracking it (since I've had the SCT tuner to monitor trans temps), I've noticed it regularly gets to 270F, as high as 275 before blinking the OD light at me. I do track with OD turned off, it seems that that has an effect of preventing torque converter lockup, which generates more heat. I've been replacing the 7 qts with fresh valvoline mercon V every two race days, and it hasn't failed me yet. Still shifts smoothly with no drama. Guess I'm just lucky.

I do have a trans cooler ready to go on, just need to sort out plumbing and we'll be ready to rock.

[Prospect62]

Hey guys, speaking of transmission service:

I bought my car at 177k, currently at 209k, as near as I can tell, original transmission. I have the deep pan with drain plug, but since I've been tracking it (since I've had the SCT tuner to monitor trans temps), I've noticed it regularly gets to 270F, as high as 275 before blinking the OD light at me. I do track with OD turned off, it seems that that has an effect of preventing torque converter lockup, which generates more heat. I've been replacing the 7 qts with fresh valvoline mercon V every two race days, and it hasn't failed me yet. Still shifts smoothly with no drama. Guess I'm just lucky.

I do have a trans cooler ready to go on, just need to sort out plumbing and we'll be ready to rock.

I'm no expert but that seems almost insanely high.

[blazen71]

If you still have the factory cooler setup, it has a thermostatically controlled valve that opens at 180 deg. You shouldn't see too much higher that that, except on your track days.

[baloneyhomie]

270 seems very high. My old hightop express van with the 4L60e only ever got as high as 230F before I installed a cooler of any kind of it. The transmission on the car never gets over 190F when I drive it pretty hard on Blood Mountain. Someone else is probably more qualified than I to say, but I believe installing a cooler inline is fine on these cars.